I respect the fact that you admit to your past mistakes. Lot's of seasoned techs pretend they have never made a mistake to the newer techs.. Good deal!!!!
Im completing electrical engineering programs in school right now and these lessons are way better to learn and understand what's actually going on. Great lessons keep up the great work!
I regret not going to a trade school. I used my GI bill to go to college and get a useless degree that put me in a cubicle for the past 10 years, and here I am at 35 watching youtube videos and hunting for an apprenticeship to replace the trade school I should have gone to in the first place. These videos are a HUGE help to get me ready though, and there are things about this style of learning that are not all that bad. I can pause this lecture several times to take sidebar research and clarify things he brings up that may be a term I don't know or concept I am not familiar with yet, whereas in the classroom I just have to make a not to look something up later.
Don't beat yourself up, for one, least you had a G.I. bill and used it, also you had the guts to stand up for all our freedom so your a hero(never forget that). Then with your training on top your degree your discipline and work ethic rank you supreme so whatever it is you do in that cubicle your most likely a quantum leap ahead everyone else at that company well on your way over the top because you are a winner. Besides it's never too late to do whatever you want. Good luck and God bless you and. Thanks for your service. Keep your head up.
You also need to add the amperage of the blower motor to the supply of your heat strips since it will be powering both of them. It will also be an inductive load unlike the heat strips so it will draw more amperage than usual when first turned on.
I think the math used to figure out factory specifics for resistance is vital. I am working on an old univent and will be using some info from here. Alway great content!
It's good to know the ohms of what you are working on since you can't always jump red to white...the reason is in some old buildings they have used whatever color wire they had on hand to wire a thermostat and you have to know the ohms of what you are working on and then ohm out the circuit to the common wire until you find the right circuit. It is not a perfect world like in a classroom when you get out in public! They jump stuff and then you have go in and try to figure what they did so you can get to the root cause to begin with.
Great man Love your training method !!!! going to take some classes and i watch your videos for i go take school. So that I'm not completely lost.... awesome keep up the good work.
We use to have installers leave the instruction manuels inside the heat strip section of Air Handlers. First time the heat strips came on, instant fire, smoke and plastic melting.
This might not be the best place to ask this question but here goes anyway. I'm an automotive mechanic and I've noticed that the heater works pretty well the way it's designed in every car manufacturer. I'm in the south. My question is would using your water heater with a circulation pump not be more efficient than electric strip or heat pump? I just assume there is people here watching this that would know the answer to this question.
I don’t like using the word “inefficient” for electric heat. It’s actually 100% efficient, buts not very cost effective because the “fuel” (electricity) is more expensive than gas. Buildings downtown actually qualify for being “green” if they have electric heat because of its efficiency rating. This can be confusing as your heat pump can produce more btus than running electricity through heater but they use the same “fuel”. As a tech who does not work on a lot of air heat pumps, I wonder at what point, if there is one, in which elec heaters vs gas vs heat pump is more effective at BTU output. So I wish there was a more clear way of explaining this. It’s more about cost effectiveness. A class on this topic would be cool. This was a great class though.
As a home owner with a hydro heat pump in basement here in michigan I wish someone could tell me how to shut off my elec heat or aux I mostly heat with my wood fireplace. I'm sure it can be done because i read it somewhere just can't remember where.
@@murkyturkey5238 To my understanding the elec heat kick in when it thinks the heat pump can't keep up or do the job. I also think the reason some on here will not offer info is because i'm just a home owner.
On average heat pumps pull up even with electric heaters at about 5 degrees Fahrenheit. That is, though the heat pump is still transferring heat it's running very hard to do so and drawing the same electricity that an electric heater would to produce the same heat ( BTUs). This is why in colder climates a secondary heating source is necessary, unfortunately many people are unaware of this and are shocked when their electric bill skyrockets in the winter.
I had a call for a Trane air handler recently. Fan wouldn’t shut off. Turned out the 90-340 relay was stuck closed under load, but would open when the circuit breaker was turned off then on again. Any idea why? This one still puzzles me. I verified 0 volts to the coil, but it was still closed.
Great lesson. Got a question on those same heaters in the box there's the small sticker u showed in the video and then there's 2 big stickers with the different model of AH on the big stickers it will be 208/240 volts and the MOCP is different compare to the smaller sticker that rating is at 208/230 volts so my question is should we used the MOCP from the big sticker? as its 208/240 since when we measure voltage its usually a little over 240v.
You'd be hard pressed to actually draw 50A from a range. The burners and oven element click on and off to maintain the temp set, so they rarely crank 100% all at the same time. It was common to put 40A breakers on range circuits in the past even though modern ones state they need 50A, and I've never seen those trip.
What is the power per kw down in Florida where in Winnipeg Canada and I use only a 15kw furnace set to 5kw for an 800 sq shop. And its really not that bad. O and it'd minus 36 Celsius here.
I mean, nothing wrong with size 12 wire. But why even bother. Just grab some 10. It's like the most common wire, 30 amps, no biggie. Just in case too, I mean sometimes a heat strip may pull just over 20 amps. Find some melty wires in an electric heat area, grab the good stuff. And that reminds me....I need to pick up some NoAlOx for those unfortunate people that still have aluminum wire set ups.
And there is a huge push to bring in copper clad back into residential...we have forgotten about mobile home fires?? Afci won't let that happen? I'll watch from my phone, yee who forgets history... should be a hell of a show.
You didn’t once mention air outlet temperature which customers complain it’s blowing cold air (it isn’t) with heat pumps not shutting off till 5 degrees so staging a heat strip to temper duct outlet temperatures is critical.
Just think of the elements being wired with 3 separate 208 volt supplies.....each element is being independently energized by a single phase voltage of 208 volts. AB, BC, CA
Great instructor! HVAC school is full of last chance delinquents. Just wonder how that set-up would allow the emergency heat to work in the event the condenser unit failed to run. Isn't the call from the stat the same for emergency heat as the heat pump with strips, minus the Y(and O if say a Ruud/Rheem)? Meaning it's just a W2 call with G, and that circuit has now been interrupted by the high ambient lock out.
Why aren’t any of these electric heat videos talking about the main reason they are used in heat pump markets. It’s the most often time they are used also. Defrost. You the reason for the white wire on the condenser. Keeps you from getting calls saying my heat pump is blowing cold air.
I know relays have been the normal forever it just seems so much easier I know the mill industry is way way better with the advancement of plc and drives
Not sure how that makes them smarter. I mean everybody doing electrical work should know how to work with relays yes but plc just makes life allot easier and can do way more
In school to be a electrician we learned relay logic but now that I work in the field computers have taken almost 90 precent of the trade and it just looks like it would simplifie allot of there work
Man this brought back some many cool memories… Having a laid back / chill teacher is what makes this trade the best. Learning and having a laugh here and there is what I looked forward in class in my days of learning. I notice early there was never a dumb question because it always had an answer lol.
Love your lessons, Bryan. Would be great to see ways to test voltage in the ciruit. What you read on each side/across relays when they break one or both legs of power, etc.
WOW! Your video is the first time in 50 years I have seen ohm's and watt's law displayed in the circle format in the way I learned way back in the late 1960's. You're even using the letters I learned. I've always had difficulty in remembering the formulas as written. The circle form I can see in my head. Good job. I think that is the easiest way to remember them.
Your slide about W, W1, W2, W3, E is the best explanation I’ve seen. I live in Houston and even thought it’s prime climate for heat pumps they are extremely rare. With all this electrification shit coming out we’re trying to start pushing them to be ahead of the curve. Well, my first install with a Honeywell T6 thermostat kicked my ass trying to figure out what terminals to use. This would have saved me a lot of frustration! Thanks!
I happened on to this class. Before retirement, I was an automotive electrician with auto/truck HVAC experience. This class is great for commercial HVAC, and some of it makes sense to me. I would need to obviously go through the beginning or entry level training to understand the whole picture.
I don't have any specific numbers on cfm and how much air you need to be moving based on size of electric heater but in personal experience working on mostly 15 and 20kw electric furnaces I would say medium at the least or high. You need to move a lot of air over electric heat to avoid problems and it all needs to be tied together with properly sized ductwork. I have seen many 20kw systems with wire removed from one element turning it to a 15kw system just because the ductwork was not big enough to move enough air over the elements without cycling limits.
I only use 10 ga THHN wire, quality 10 ga terminals and a ratcheting crimper. Most of those electrical compartments do not have enough air movement to keep wires and terminals cool. No more overheating issues near the terminals.
You can measure Voltage across those switches with power on. If you see “0” you’ll know it’s good. Be careful not to short out and burn up your test leads. 🤚
Never liked electric heating since I wired in a baseboard 240 volt heater and room filled with smoke. That was back in 1970.It was just burning off oil left from manufacturing. Its convient if you only have say a small room or addition added on. Would love it when old apartment houses with no insulation had me install electric heaters in each unit. Told owners that renters would be paying an arm and a leg but they did not care because they were saving money by not running a large boiler. Had one guy in the top floor always kept windows open a little to get fresh air. After he got his first electric bill he taped windows installed plastic film and still had high electric bill. Won a couple of free lunches about the wattage of any heater of you valve the voltage say run a 240 volt baseboard heater in 120 volts. But output is reduced by 75% not 50% what some fellow dumb sparkies insisted
On a 208Y/120 volt system (the wimpy Wye system) your heat strips will only put out 75% of their rated BTU output. So if you wanted the same output of a 5KW heat at 208 volts, you would have to install the next higher level of heat strip, which would be a 7.5KW heat strip. That would be at 240 volts. That would be 5.6KW at 208 volts.
As a courtesy thermostat heating adjustment at a sister building, who’s heating elements were packed with dirt, I emptied out a four story office building when energizing the heater contactor.
I think it's boogie, woogie, woogie... Not woogie³ lol All bs aside tho, thanks for the info and advice in all your videos. Very helpful. Scott (adult student/technician in training)
Remember folks this is not plumbing one mistake with electrical system you could be dead or not knowing what your doing you could burn your home down or someone else’s
If you do work , you're going to make mistakes ,if you sit on the desk you just going to get the mistakes the service person did you will never get feed back for the good service .
I don’t work on a lot of heat pumps I saw a unit today that had a B terminal and an O terminal, my guess would be that one is to energize cooling, the other to energize heat pump mode? Someone let me know? He wanted to install a smart Honeywell thermostat and that stat only had a O/B terminal on it, is there anyway to wire this stat??
Very good video... Hybrid heat is actually called Dual Fuel ... This is important cause you CAN NOT use a heat pump compatible thermostat.. It must have a Dual Fuel compatible thermostat to run a dual fuel system which utilizes a outdoor temperature sensor for you switch over ( balance point).....
@@drodriguez394 usually the stat says dual fuel compatible... can't use heat pump only Stat. It will run heat pump with the furnace at same time and cause HP to trip on high pressure...
@@pineychristian we can also install a snap switch in the supply plenum that opens when temperature goes above say 115 F, that will open the “Y” circuit going to heat pump. Lots of ways to accomplish the same end result. Then you could use a standard hp thermostat.
@@pineychristian dude the Bosch system we've been using is cold climate rated. Variable speed compressor. It can stage the elements 5kw at a time until we are -5f outside and then the heatpump will turn off and we rely on emergency heat strip. Only done on homes with PV systems. So the heatpump at 10f drops from say 50k btu to 20k btu, and along that curve to its shutoff point, the electric heat is supplementary. The coil is before the heat strip in a conventional AHU and electric setup
1 common reason commercial buildings use 3 phase is 3 phase has better characteristics for electric motors which are more common in commercial applications
I don’t work on a lot of heat pumps I saw a unit today that had a B terminal and an O terminal on thermostat, my guess would be that one is to energize cooling, the other to energize heat pump mode? Someone let me know? He wanted to install a smart Honeywell thermostat and that stat only had O/B terminal on it, is there anyway to wire this stat??
O orange reversing valve for cooling B energized on heat when the selector switch is in heat, it does not cycle with temp. It is used for motorized air dampers from what I understand.
Wrong. It's 240 (squared)/230(squared) * old power value.. You do need to recalculate to make sure you include the new amperage reflected in the new voltage.
Re. your first chart: Another benefit of electric heat is the fact that it's efficiency is 100 % from the standpoint of energy conversion from electric to thermal energy. (You can probably win a few "Bar Bets" on this one)
Up here in Canada that point is sometimes hard to explain. Natural gas is more cost effective in most provinces but electric heat is more efficient. This leads to confusion over energy rebates. People will remove their old electric hot water tanks and install natural gas tanks and expect refunds for effeciency. Unfortunately for them the gas is more cost effective but less energy efficient. Good point to understand
@@adamradley4407 Absolutely correct Sir. The confusion arises from the fact that cost effectiveness is not equivalent to thermodynamic efficiency. The issue with which you in Canada are dealing is quite similar to that for most of us in northern New Hampshire. I can remember 25 or 30 years ago, following my retirement from Lockheed, explaining points like this to some of our community college students.
You still have an issue with the defrost thermostat as wired. If you do not run a wire to the air handler, how does "E" work on its own? Maybe in FL is is not an issue, but in the northern climates and the customer has a heat pump issue, how would the "E" be energized? We have that code for any energy rebate from the power company. If they come out to check on their random inspection, it will not pass and the owner won't get the rebate until it is fixed.
As a home owner with a hydro heat pump in basement here in michigan I wish someone could tell me how to shut off my elec heat or aux I mostly heat with my wood fireplace. I'm sure it can be done because i read it somewhere just can't remember where.
@@Gods-Elect I'm no expert but I would think you could just disconnect the wires that power the heat strip. Then when the heat strip is invoked, power will not be supplied bc the connection is broken. No power consumed and no heat produced. If there is a manual that tells you a prescribed way to do this, it should be easy to find.
@@Gods-Elect that's a deal! I would like to know. Please be safe and be sure to disable the house power and double check it's off before you touch anything. Some of these videos even show the pros forgetting sometimes. Don't be that guy!
