Wow, I have like a tons of questions but I'm first going to watch your videos. I'm starting to write down a proper project as long as I'm unable for the close future to afford all, so my will is to create a document with all aspects reflexed on it as much precisely as possible. what you have is my goal! Thanks for searing
Cheers we just found your video and subscribed . We love to home brew beer , grow hops , make meads and wines and others on our channel , stay thirsty and brew good beer.
Nice I like your style and I just subscribed! Always trying to learn more. I grow hops as well but haven’t utilized any of my own yet but this will be the third year so they should be ready for action.
NICE EQUIPMENT!!! If the electric brewing system will work for step mashing, meaning that it is capable of reaching the temperature of each rest within 10 minutes, the brewing system will produce pseudo, ale and lager. The malt to use for step mashing should be under modified, low protein, malt, which is much richer in enzyme content and in starch/sugar content than high modified, high protein, malt. If you are using the brewing system with single temperature infusion, the brewing method cannot produce ale and lager due to the way enzymes function and chemical precipitation, which makes strike and target temperature useless for producing the beer. Single temperature infusion is used by moonshiners for producing moonshiners beer meant for distillation. Moonshiners use single temperature infusion because it is the simplest and quickest brewing method for producing extract that contains a high volume of simple sugar, glucose, which is responsible for primary fermentation and ABV, using inexpensive, high modified, high protein, malt and adjuncts. Since, only one step is needed for producing glucose, which is the only sugar a moonshiner needs for making whiskey, the conversion, dextrinization and gelatinization steps that are used for producing ale and lager are skipped. Conversion is a necessary step in brewing ale and lager, which is usually skipped in home brewing. The high temperatures recommended in home brew recipes denatures low temperature activated enzymes that produce ale and lager, Beta in particular. Beta is responsible for conversion, which occurs at 140F. Temperatures 149F and up rapidly denatures Beta. During conversion, Beta turns simple sugar, glucose that Alpha releases from simple starch, amylose during liquefaction, into fermentable, complex types of sugar, maltose and maltotriose. Maltose and maltotriose are the sugars that produce ale and lager, glucose provides the ABV. When conversion occurs, secondary fermentation takes place due to maltose. Maltotriose is responsible for natural carbonation. Priming sugar and CO2 injection aren't needed for carbonating beer when conversion occurs. Dextrinization and gelatinization form body and mouthfeel in ale and lager. The steps are skipped in homebrewing because the temperatures in home brew recipes aren't high enough to burst a particular type of starch, called amylopectin, before Alpha denatures and the richest starch in malt is thrown out with the spent mash. In grain distillation the starch is sold. Amylopectin is hard, heat resistant, complex starch that makes up the tips of malt that contains limit dextrin, which are tasteless, nonfermenting types of sugar and pectin. Pectin is cellular glue that holds everything in beer together during conditioning and storage. Limit dextrin, pectin, and a particular type of protein form body and mouthfeel in ale and lager. In home brew, starch carry over, Beta Glucan, and protein sludge, which anyone of reduces the quality and shelf life of the final product provides body and mouthfeel. To take advantage of amylopectin mash is boiled. When Alpha liquefies amylopectin, dextrinization and gelatinization occur. Ale and lager are produced from dextrinous extract. A brewing system that recirculates hot extract for maintaining and increasing mash temperature causes over sparge, which extracts tannin. Over sparge occurs when a high volume of hot extract recirculates through a grain bed for prolonged periods of time. Tannin extraction is a time, temperature, pH thing and that is why vorlauf is kept within 10 minutes using a small volume of extract. To accurately determine efficiency, attenuation and ABV requires a special piece of test equipment. Efficiency between 79 and 83% are achieved in a lab under controlled conditions. A home brew formula for determining efficiency, attenuation and ABV, at best, maybe horseshoes and hand grenades close. Before a recipe comes a malt spec sheet. Without a malt spec sheet, a brewer has no idea if malt is capable of producing ale and lager. Malthouses produce two types of malt, high modified, high protein, malt, which is more suitable for grain distillation and under modified, low protein, ale and lager, malt. Both types of malt are on the market and both bags are stamped brewers' malt because moonshiners are considered brewers, too. Modification, protein content and a few other chemical acronyms and numbers, which a brewer uses for determining if the malt is whiskey, malt or ale and lager malt are listed on a malt spec sheet. Malt spec sheets are online from every malthouse. Modification and protein content are important because the higher the numbers the less suitable the malt is for producing ale and lager. In recipes that recommend single temperature infusion, more than likely, the malt is less expensive, high modified, high protein, malt. A recipe that doesn't list the malthouse that produced the base malt is useless because a malt spec sheet cannot be obtained. The single temperature infusion method produces sugar imbalanced, chemically imbalanced, unstable, extract, which have a negative impact on fermentation and shelf life. To produce a consistent final product other than moonshiners beer with the brewing method is impossible, especially, when a brewer has no idea if the malt purchased will produce ale and lager. In 1960, the triple decoction brewing method was replaced with the Hochkurz double decoction brewing method in breweries that produced ale and lager. It is amazing that over 60 years later, homebrewers are still using the same ingredients and brewing method that moonshiners used 100 years ago during Prohibition. The advertisers that invented CAMRA made it that way.
Awesome setup! I live in Fishers. I'm formulating a plan to buildout our basement. It will probably be another year or two, but I'm trying to get the wheels turning.
Thanks Karl! It’s nice to build from scratch so take your time and plan for future equipment. Let me know if you ever have any questions I’m glad to help!
Amazing setup - I started with a Blichman Pro Pilot system and have been building it out so your channel is great timing. I would love to know where you sourced the wall shelving. Looking forward to more videos. Raucous Rabbit Brewery.
Thanks for watching! I got all of my stainless stuff from here including tables, shelves, etc: www.webstaurantstore.com/48407/wall-mount-shelving.html Tons of options. Let me know if you have any specific brewing video requests that would be helpful to you!
Great Brewery. Working on putting something similar for myself -- I can only hope that it turns out as well as yours. I love that rack that you store your chemicals and salts in the mason jars on. Looks like it swivels out. Do you remember where you purchased it? Thanks so much. Looking forward to you doing more videos.
Thank you! Yes that thing fits the space perfectly and yea it does swivel out. I got it on Amazon and I checked my past orders - it was called “stainless steel kitchen spice rack” but it’s no longer available. I remember it shipped from China and took several weeks to arrive. Try google searching around a bit I’m guessing it exists somewhere. Good luck with your build!
Amazing video. Have you provided a list of the equipment in your brewery other than the link to the website you mention? I’ve gone there and it’s pretty comprehensive and would like to see your list.
Thanks! I switched to ball valves because I only keep them fully open or closed and control flow at the pump as needed, it’s easier to visually inspect the status of the valves, and I wanted to adapt everything to triclamp for ease of disassembly and cleaning.
Excellent work with the brewery!! That tap tower is the best looking one i've ever seen, did you have it custom made or is it available for purchase somewhere?
Thank you! It’s the Tital “L” glycol-cooled tower from Micromatic. www.micromatic.com/titan-l/titan-l-4-304-faucets-polished-stainless-steel-glycol-cooled-tt-l-4kr-11 They also do some amazing custom towers in any color you like.
Not so bad with the large sink I just remove all the fittings and soak those and then drop the mash and boil kettles in the sink and spray with soap and water with sponge no problem
@@nextlevelmedia I see. Well that’s awesome. Sorry about my previous type. I didn’t mean to say “unimpressed”. I think spell correct did that. That’s definitely well thought out and organized.
Very impressive setup and ... almost discouraging in terms of effort and cost for someone like myself who has been looking at going to the next level in brewing as you have. It's obvious that this is a passion for you. I can see that you put a lot of research time, thought and effort into the build. Thank you for sharing! Interestingly, I found out about Kal a few years ago and have been following him ever since - he actually lives in the same area as I do. It would be fun to see you document one of your brewing days.
Thanks buddy, for my setup I spent at least $15k as I took the no expense spared rout but you could probably spend half that for a quality setup and make amazing beer. This includes kettles, pumps, stainless tables, heating elements and fittings, fermenter, glycol chiller, kegs, etc. Check out electricbrewery.com
I started to get a headache off the glare of all that stainless steel after about 6 minutes! It's beautiful, but I'm left with the feeling that you went straight from a hang-glider to a jumbo jet in terms of your brewery. Also, you should be 4x your size unless you are giving all your beer away? It would take me months to drink a batch of roughly 180 pints per brew and years to get an ROI from all that incredible gear and the building alterations. Wow! Is it safe to say, I'm glad your wife hadn't bought you a lamb for your birthday or you would be a farmer by now...? Greetings from Scotland!
Hello and thanks for the feedback. Yes I went straight to a high end brewery setup as I was fortunate enough to be able to invest big in my hobby, I figured go big or go home! I was not looking for any type of ROI, just looking to brew the best beer possible and share with friends as we do a lot of entertaining. I don’t sell my beer at this point. I do tend to get pretty obsessive with any of my projects and hobbies - stay tuned for more!
Thanks! I use a mini renewable dehumidifier from Eva-dry on Amazon that I hang in there and also a small computer fan to recirculate the air inside the keezer - not perfect but it definitely helps
@@nextlevelmedia Ok, thanks. I use the same without fan and it doesn't keep dry. Might try a fan to help. Also, what dimensions are the brewery and what would you do different if doing it again. Thanks
Thank you! Here is a link to my exact sink: www.webstaurantstore.com/advance-tabco-fc-1-2424-one-compartment-stainless-steel-commercial-sink-29/109FC12424.html
Love the pump orientation. What are you running and parts to get front access? I'm trying to squeeze mine in on some SS cubes but I/O is out the sides which is the least ideal access.
I added triclamp adapters and then just added elbows to get everything in the forward facing direction, and it’s easy to take apart for cleaning as needed. Check out Brewershardware.com they have every possible adapter and elbow to customize any setup.
Hello, I had the stainless condensate hood custom built at a local steel shop in Indianapolis, I think I paid approximately $800. I was able to draw it exactly to the spec and height I needed for my room and have the fan cutout placed right over my boil kettle which was nice. I have the vortex VTX800 8” fan which is rated at 739 CFM.
I shoot for mash pH 5.2-5.4 when measured at mash temperature. I then acidify sparge water with goal pH 5.6-5.8 range. In the boil kettle goal is pH 5-5.5 to help produce a good protein break and long term beer stability. I’ve never had to add acid to my boil kettle as I keep the mash and sparge water pH in check. I don’t typically check pH post fermentation.
