Finally another update - we are happy to share it with you! Please feel free to leave your suggestions and ideas so we can make our build better!!!! THANK YOU! 😊😊✌
Your humvee build and this jeep built has inspired me to do a electric hilux swap on an old solid axle first gen might get some ar500 armor to patch some welds if you know what I’m saying lol and it will be quite ultimate stealth recon electric will be around far after gas especially if you got solar and parts to repair your system slash recon vehicle 3 of everything on stand bye
I've just binge watched your entire series. What a great job you've done! I had no idea it took this much work and this much thinking to get an EV conversion up and running.
Thank you for your feedback, that is great to hear. I didn't know it either haha. Yes, it was a lot of work to get to that point and we still have some ahead of us, hehe. There are easier ways to do a conversion like that, especially when you don't have to make your own batteries. But, the learning for us in this project was/is huge!
This is a very good conversion. I have done a couple. A ranger and a jeep. This is one of the most advanced and well documented conversions out there. It can be done simpler , less costly and less complicated than this one but you will loose some of the advantages.
Very nice to see the progress of this build. By the way, I think it's wise to isolate the drive train (electric motor) from the frame using rubbers and I would ugrade the rear end with a Dana 44. The stock Dana 35 is a very weak axle and should have never be put behind the 4.0 from the factory. The constant torque of an electro motor will blow your diff in a heart beat. Keep up the good work.
Great update, lot done since the last one. If you're considering never really using dc fast charging, possibly change the battery chemistry to air cooled LiFePO4, there's a good variety of sizes to try and fit better, you will lose some capacity but maybe not the 1/3rd you're losing in not having that unit in the cargo area. The custom gauge cluster looks really cool too!
If I did another conversion we would for sure think about getting different batteries - if available at all - LFP preferred. But for this one we really want to stick with the modules we have - we already put so much effort into it. And we might want to upgrade towards DC fast charging in the future as we have thermal management and everything set up for it. I LOVE the custom gauge cluster! THANKS!
Dr. V and Don, so proud of you for the hard work work you have put into this build. I know it is not easy, but you are doing great. Love to see your evolution of thoughts as you go through the build. Continued good luck. Looking forward to seeing your progress!!
One of the things I’ve picked up from watching other EV builds (and some of the issues that pop up down the road) is the need to make the battery boxes serviceable. If you need to use a forklift to take the box out and then take the modules out to fix a BMS lead that’s worked loose on the bottom….that’s a real pain. Obviously it may not be possible, but it’s something to keep in mind as you re-design. I guess in a way, I’m lucky that the floor of my Jeep is completely rusted out, so when I replace it I’ll add access panels for the battery boxes.
Agree! I wish there was an easy way to do that - certainly we have ideas for a more modular design and hence more serviceable but not 100% feasible with just a garage shop setup - would also be really cool to have the system modular in a way that you could somewhat easily take out modules and swap them with charged ones when you go off roading - we also had that idea, but just super hard to make right now..
Wow! What a project! I am a car guy myself and totally amazed by your work! I am planning to do a Corvette C3 conversion and already now got plenty of valuable input. Thank you so much. One thing I would be a bit worried about, is your small front mount of the motor. Is that really strong enough to receive torque? I saw the back mount which is very strong, but still, I think that the front mount should be at least as strong. Was that your Mustang GT in the driveway? I am owning the exact same car since November 22!
Thank you so much for your feedback, great to hear that our content is helpful for you. Wow, a Corvette would be nice too! We will see if it is strong enough - we can only try and see - for that part we did not do any simulation but kind of trusted the work of our fabricator - but we will definitely share updates once it's moving. Yes, it's my Mustang and I love it. Bough it in February - my first car EVER (well after the Jeep hehe)
I just watched all the videos for the Electrified Jeep, I love this concept. I see your last video is a year old, is there an update on the progress? Did you reconfigure the batteries? What is the real-life range of the Jeep, How is it off-road and in snow?
For cooling - I think the cheapest and most effective cooling system for the battery would be to get an AC condensor unit from a small car, like a honda civic. These can be had for about $50 on Amazon, they're 1" or less thickness, and they would give a large continuous contact surface to your battery case. Your copper pipe (likely $30 at a box store) will have very little contact area by comparison, and you're likely to get differential metal corrosion if any moisture condenses inside your battery box (which will happen). You will need a small pump to circulate your working fluid through the condensor and out to a radiator. I would recommend mineral oil since it's non-conductive and non-corrosive. (AC systems used mineral oil before they converted to PAG oils.)
I know im late to your build. but if you lay the in cab battery flat you can build rear jump seat mounts into the battery pack and it is now your seat mount. You could also cut the rear floor of the jeep and recess the pack down closer to the top of the under cab pack so the seat isn't as high, you need a good seals and enough clearance that the two packs do not interact.
I don’t really understand any of this, but it’s fun watching your progress. I haven’t watched this from the beginning, but I’m getting the impression this is about more than this one Jeep. Do you have a big picture goal for the project?
Hi and welcome to the journey of Electrified Veronika. I welcome you to head over to my website for a fast overview of our project - or you watch the entire playlist hehe. electrifiedveronika.com/jeep-electrification/
Thanks for the updates, love the custom dash and LED replacement lamps - missed where you got these from - have you tested, are they much brighter? If you redesign the battery boxes, from my experience with running instrumentation for atmospheric measurements in very cold and very hot weather, you need to try and make it IP67 rated, and use a rebreather unit to allow moist air to exit the enclosure without letting water in. Looking forward to more vids!
Lights are from XKGlow - forgot to mention the brand - will share some footage in upcoming videos about how they perform. Right now they are just installed and look nice, haha. Thank you also for your insights - about the air vent - we will consider that in the redesign! Thanks for watching!
For the battery cooling in the box look up “chill plate” for the hyper 9 motor controller. Now think flatter and much bigger. CNC the bottom and then use a flat piece for the top, a little rtv and done. If you want you can even design in some slots for the cooling fins.
Put a roll cage and harness bars and race seats sounds unnecessary but is a must if you plan on driving this jeep at highway speeds these things are death traps without those check out gen right roll cages they are the best in the game with roll cages and then seats would be ones that fit and feel good for you same with harness
I would like you to also make an electric 2010 Dodge Challenger an engine similar to Tesla model s and some materials I want you to do it thank you very much
Your custom thermal management for batteries seems massive with less than ideal heat removal efficiencies. I would take some cues from the original cooling pads: 1. The path to least amount of labor and cost would direct you to reusing the original parts with minor modification and a smart method of routing the cooling fluid through all of them, even if you have to replace all the thermal pads. 2. Sticking with the custom design, the heat conductivity of copper is much greater than aluminum but also with higher density. If you are going to use copper tubing, I would seriously consider getting rid of aluminum plates that sadwich the copper tubing. At the same time, going with smaller diameter tubing and flattening it some to render more contact surface with battery bodies may benefit. This will also result in reduction in weight. Here again, use of thermal transfer compound e.g. adhesive thermal pad, thermal compound, etc. would be recommended as air is not a very good conductor of heat. 3. Applying the principle of convection, the cooling coils should be installed for each layer of batteries with possibly a thin sheet of heat insulation above the copper tubing between layers so that the heat contribution from the lower layer to the top layer is mitigated. Wish you success!
Well done. Everything looks so good. In my Project i want to build a AWD Hybrid conversion. So battery size is smaller. I also need to have a short battery stack that would lay on the rear hatch/trunk area. what is your estimated miles per charge? As I want to recharge from the existing Gas engine during highway cruise and use EV in the city my needs are different. Most different is the donor car is front engine and rear drive, so i will use Protean Hub Wheel Motors on the front wheels as their controller is build it. I will want a unique battery shape, where would suggest i look for battery construction? Thank for posting your project. Dennis in Virginia
Extremely high voltage jeep conversion series. I'm Getting courage to convert mine after watching your and JerryRigEveryhin's serieses. Btw, we're impressed with the turntable vehicle body workbench shown in ep 6 and many other. What's it exactly?
Thank you! It's a fun project with soo many learnings - I can definitely recommend if you have enough time and patience haha. That was a rotisserie from Redline www.redlinestands.com/catalog/shop-equipment-c-327/automotive-c-327_328/rotisseries-c-327_328_212/redline-automotive-auto-restoration-rotisserie-p-2721 - Perfect for bodywork and our demonstration purposes plus the scanning part - be careful with an entire vehicle - might get way too heavy
Thanks for the input. If we did not have the liquid cooling/heating system that would be a little bit easier to do. In general I would have liked to have all the battery modules mounted in a way so they are swappable and easily expandable when needed. Not on that first one, maybe in the future 🙃
I have noticed that a lot of these electric conversions have to have a button to engage the parking, the reverse, and the drive. Why? Can you not just use what's already available?
For us the reason to go the route with the new keypad was that the stock buttons are usually manually connected to the transmission or they communicate over CAN to the original VCU. Since we set up the entire CAN system with new VCU from scratch that was the way to go for us. There are also some safety things that were easier to integrate with the keypad - I will go into detail for that in a dedicated video coming up.
for heat all you need is the liquid cooling method and the stock heater core any where you can get away from using the battery for heat your better off. The motor controller and and motor will create there own heat to get optimal heat just monitor which one heats up and holds to the highest heat level and isolate it (that one is your heating friend) . Your controller is most likely going to be the one that gets hot faster and use the liquid cooling to capture the heat for the cab to the heater core to keep your toes warm no battery used, increased range and less stress on the battery. One thing i can certainly say im all about K.I.S.S (keep it simple stupid) if you got free heat potential from liquid cooling its best to use it you may need to optimize the radiator size to keep the controller holding at no more than 70 to 80c and during the cold season you may have to cut the external radiator off completely to gain heat for the cab summer mode and winter mode can be done electronically by a push button and a couple of 12 volt valves that redirect the water flow to by pass the external radiator and name the push button "Defrost" and make sure the button has a light so you know its on and the external radiator is being bypassed. Anyway just thought ide toss that out there. Ill be posting my own E-conversion with in the next couple of months ive got all the electronics in for the drive line and its liquid cooled.
Haha, yes we probably picked the most inconvenient car for a conversion, but it is my dream car and hey, if you can do it for this one, you can do it for MANY others.
I got a AES EVCU 200 and the Zonic 180 motor and it is without a doubt the hardest system I have ever worked with in 30 years of electric car building. I don't have it working and I don't seem to be getting anywhere with finding help. Looks like I got to buy a $700 cord to plug into my computer to talk to the thing. Feel like I'm just dumping more money into something that I don't even know if it's going to work. Have you ever got motor and controller to work?
Still looking to see if anybody has gotten this Zonic motor to where can I find my post here I'm pretty much giving up on this motor a very expensive bad idea. Company says I need to buy more and basically spend another 10%. I'm not sure if that's going to make it work even so I'm waiting and looking for somebody else that's gotten it to go.
@@David_Mash Thanks for the input! This is definitely something we are considering! I'm a little hesitant about placing the modules sideways - although that's the configuration we have in the cargo space - I think these pouch cell based modules are mechanically designed to stand upright, and I'm concerned about mechanical vibration in the sideways position- not only on the cells but also on the busbars - maybe I am too cautious - if anybody has more insights, please let me know!
@@ElectrifiedVeronika if you make it a modular system, you can orient the cells however you feel best. I would say that vertical vibration will be greater than side to side. Having 3-4 packs like briefcase style means you can have extra charged at home ready to swap and easy to bring one or two with youbon a long trip. And easy to make as you recycle cells or battery tech evolves.
Great job. Just wondering why you bothered to make your own batteries instead of recycling Tesla modules but then put in a brand-new electric motor when you could have recycled a Tesla drive.
Can we apply re generative momentum effect?this method is totally different from regenerative braking ,I am harnessing from the momentum of the vehicle either cruising normally or going downhill.
We could not get up with the voltage using Tesla modules - we don't have enough space..this is why we decided to go the route to disassemble pouch modules and make our own versions with custom size and voltage..if you can and have the space in your car, use the Tesla modules - that saves you from lots of problems - on the other hand - never learned so much making our own modules, hehe.
Hi, watching someone else gives you son many ideas. Best to learn from how they doit. Small 4x4 are the hardest, no space. Still watching, hope it goes well. M.
Unfortunately not, the Jeep is covered in snow right now. We have a new addition to our family that I am taking care of, but as soon as we find time again, we'll be back.
I wonder if just mounting a secondary Air Conditioning system & direct all the airflow through strategic channels around the batteries & have the system turn on & off based on temperature levels/needs. Given the automotive a/C applications here'd be a million options. (or literally hook up the mechanism/guts of a freeezer & turn the battery box into a freezer - finding a way to mitigate condensation & moisture etc)
Nice done job!!! Maybe a bit over engineered...why bother with cooling and heating. I mean it is supposed to be a fun car for short trips. I would have eliminated 4WD and got rid of that transfer box. Simple is king with these mods. You guys did soo much work and now I wanna see it drive!! PLEASE
There is a possibility for you guys to order custom cooling plates from china. Making them by yourself is a challenge. Also you want to keep connection points as minimal as possible. Every hose connection can be a leak problem in the long run. Also best cooling plate design is dimple design. You want to have has much turbilent effect as possible without restricting too much. That is because of the surface water effect. As you know when you go swimming then usually water is colder at the bottom. When there is no turbilent water flow then there will be layers with different heat and the surface conductivity will suffer. I am currently working on Electric Porsche 356 project and I can tell you that space in small cars is a real problem. So I can say that I completely relate to your problems. We are using 2022 EQS battery and also AEM BMS18 for our project. Reusing Mustang battery cooling is always a green way to think. But it is not effective when you have batteries in different places. Because of orginal 16 cell pair design. If I would be in your shoes i would do one of following three: 1) I would build as light and compact battery as possible with a Range extender generator. giving me a 18x5 90 cell 378v system. ( For it the Pairs need to be in series. not parallel has you guys have it) That would problably reduce the range too low. 2) I would do same but I would build 1 pack into a offroad trailer. Also I would put the range extender there. I am not sure about mach e battery. I am starting to remember that I discarded them because of the kwh size that I would get with cells as series. 3) anyhow.. sometimes... It is smarter to understand the limitations and sell these modules to somebody who would be happy about the work that you guys did and use them as they are. Selling them will give you a opportunity to choose battery that will suit your room and BMS requirements. Feel free to contact me from FB.
