A small micro spring loaded plunger switch usually sticks on these kinds of kettles. If the cord and element checks out as good then this micro switch is probably the culprit.
Awesome video and simple instructions. Today is 12 June 2023 and I followed the video steps and I did it. Almost threw out the kettle but you saved the day. Thank you very much
Geez Andy ! Great job and I’m on it right now . I heard you speak and I said to my wife ,he sounds like he’s from NL maybe even ST MARYS bay ! Thanks so much sir.
Thanks Andy, Just had a cuppa tea with my newly repaired Kettle I sprayed a little WD40 around as well . Your video has given me a newfound confidence to fix more things before throwing them out. Cheers
@@seantiller4737 I am happy that you have taken on a newfound confidence to fix things. Safety first but enjoy your troubleshooting. Thank you for supporting my channel.
That's the whole idea Jerry. sadly, today's world is very much a throw away world. I always have a go at repairing or troubleshooting anything before it gets tossed. Thanks for watching.
16 April 2020 your video SIR just helped me to fix my kettle at home...on a day where we having geyser problems and the kettle was our main heating system but it malfunctioned.Now it's fixed thank you very much
Thank you for this video, i'm from Malaysia, I was about to trow my kettle away, but saw your video, the problem was the jammed plunger. God bless you.
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Glad you didn't have to break into the switch mechanism. Sometimes it's just as easy as finding a stuck piece or brushing off some corrosion. I went inside my cheap Proctor Silex and it was literally the same switch. Found a brand name "Strix" on it.
Thanks a bunch, Andy! My kettle had exactly the same problem. Would've never even looked for that little switch if it weren't for your video. Thanks! o7
Happy the video was beneficial to you. That's the purpose of the video. To save folks money, time and keep stuff working in a throw away world. Thanks for watching my video.
@@Tobinindustrial I took it apart but everything was fine, even the little pin. I don't have the electrical 'device' to test the other parts as you do, so it is in the garbage. Didn't pay much for it, about $13 on sale and it lasted two years, but we're old fashioned and believe things should last...longer...ha...like in the old days. It was worth a try though. Such a sad, throw-away society we live in, but at least some people, like you, try to get more out of the junk that is made now. : )
@@shannonr5102 I am sorry that the troubleshoot was not successful. Perhaps the coil itself failed and it would not be worth replacing. You are so right, we are living in a throw away society. China provides cheap garbage but the end results is poor long term quality and more junk for the landfill. I wish North America would get back to building superior products. it is so hard to find quality items these days.
Drop by anytime my friend. I'll have steeped tea on the wood stove waiting for you. Do bee extra careful of the icebergs if you decide to take your rowboat. Thanks for watching Shaun.
when i pushed the switch down, i can see the red light for a brief moment and then disappear. i thought only the light malfunction but then i noticed the kettle does not heat. sometimes i need to try at least 20 times before the kettle light stays on and start heating...after i put some WD40 at 4:30 and most of the metal parts it works well now. I was so happy that it is still functioning properly...later i realized the boiled water smell WD40...hahaha...my bad btw thanks for this video.
hi I have exactly the same problems, some days is alright and some days the red light just for a brief moment. The kettle is not expensive at all, but when after my night shift(I am a key worker) and I am so exhausted and tired just want a cup of tea and the kettle playing me up. I have it for about 2 years, and was thinking just go and buy one. After seeing this video, may I ask, is it a easy job don't really need too much skill to fix it? as I am going to follow this video and try....
I had the same problem and from the get go I suspected that it was the switch. They didn't sound/feel right. My biggest problem was that it had three pointed star (like Mercedes logo) screws. I can't seem to find the screwdriver for them in where I live,not even online. I just bought a new kettle yesterday.
I smaller size flat top screwdriver will work on those triangle screws. If you buy a bunch of smaller "Kit" flat top screwdrivers, you'll find one that will work. I also use a pair of plieras to grip the shaft of the screwdriver for the more stubborn triange screwdrivers. I hope you still have the kettle as a repair will then mean you have a backup.
I had the same problem, so I bought this kit. Sadly, my wife ordered a new kettle at the same time and it's been in use for a few days now that I've fixed the problem with the original. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VZ9MR13/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Does your kettle sit on a power base? It's possible that the base is not making proper connection with the kettle. Typically these "base powered" kettles have that issue after a few years. If you suspect that the issue is the small switch pin as I have demonstrated then it is just a matter of getting at the pin. You need to have a technician look at it if you are not familiar with electrical components.
The spring to lift the lid is broken, not worth to buy another spring. Google to make one myself but no luck, any idea how to DIY the spring, what diameter wire ?
This kettle was not spring loaded with the lid. As long as the lid shuts so the water can boil properly, what is the issue with lifting the lid manually to fill the kettle? You should be able to lift and drop the lid as needed. If not, just bypass the lock button somehow
Are you a Newfie? Where do I get a heating element replacement in Toronto? I have a Sunbeam kettle almost exactly like that, except the cord on mine is permanently attached. The element is cracked open - stopped working with a blue flash in my kitchen. Great video 👍
Yes I am! I live in western NL. These elements may be hard to find and may be too expensive to actually be a cost saving. Your best bet is to buy new or have a look at places like Value Village for a good used kettle. That being said, I never did do an online search for an element before. You never know your luck.
@@TobinindustrialAhhh cool - my parents are from Fogo Island and Springdale (both grew up in Grand falls) - I'm from Toronto. Good idea with Value Village, maybe I can find a replacement element somehow through a used kettle or kettle thrown in the garbage. My kettle is just over 3 months old - essentially brand new. Cheers ✌️ *I already bought a new kettle, but I'm trying to salvage the other broken kettle.
Do you know where to purchase the thermostat switch? Most of them now do not use the same switch with the 3 prongs, but rather the newer kind that sits on a ring, instead of using the prongs.
benthom Wow...thank you SO much! I’ve been searching around just for the small plastic ‘rod’ that apparently melted in my kettle. There is a guy from Malaysia on the internet, and he sells that little rod - but only in Malaysia. Thanks VERY much for the name of that switch....I’ll be able to search around using that. I must have known that eventually you’d would surface on this website....lol....it’s been months, but I still had not thrown out that kettle (or bought a new one) in the hopes that one day you’d show up. Thanks again.....
benthom Just for your info, I sent Strix an email yesterday to find out where I could buy one of these. This was their response: Thank you for your enquiry. All of our products are manufactured at our China factory and then shipped direct to the appliance manufacturer in bulk quantities for factory fitting. As you can appreciate, we are governed by strict safety standards and insurance restrictions which only allow us to supply controls which are fitted in line with these standards to ensure safety and compatibility. Unfortunately, therefore we are unable to supply individuals or spare part suppliers with replacement parts for the reasons stated above. Regards Strix Limited
The kettle stays on an light to an it boils good and can here the click noise to know that it is boiled and hot but it keeps boiling but i can only turn it off by the wall plug not the switch
but the led light with the resistor with the 1 wire on each side thats in the switch dont have any continuity reading at all but the led light works wen its on and boiling tho
My thoughts exactly. Thankfully, my wood stove keeps my water hot in winter and steeps my tea. It would be sad when summer comes to have an electric kettle not working.
Would be nice to know what typeof screwdriver to use. I have a defective Salton kettle - tried both Phillips and Torque screw drivers to remove the bottom without success
It is possibly a triangle (China) tip screw so a smaller flat top may work as long as it is wide enough to fit. It could be the star tipped screw with a bump in the middle. I f that is the case, you need to order that specific screwonline I guess.
Okay, so if you bypass that dirtty micro switch, your kettle will be old school and boil dry like the old ones would do. The question is, would you forget and let the kettle boil dry? lol. If so, then I guess if the contacts don't clean up enough, you may want to buy another kettle. Just so you know, I am using another kettle now that is clear glass with a stainless steel bottom. So far so good.
There is a thin metal strip that is under tension or flexed into a spring like tension. When the water warms, the metal warms as well. When the water gets boiling hot, the metal expands to the point where it unflexes and relieves the tension and this action caues the switch, which is incorporated right next to the metal to pop and spring into the off position. A little plunger switch is what is depressed when you push the on button down and when the metal pops the switch, the plunger swicth is released and power is cut off from the element that heats the water. I hope that is a helpful explanation for you. God bless you and thank you for your comment
Ah, sadly I wish you had advised what it meant when the prongs to the screws had no continuity. My middle prong and middle screw does, but the ones on each side do not have continuity to the appropriate screws....:(
That "may" be an indication of a burnt out heating element. Does your element have any signs of being burnt? Swollen, blisterd or cracked? I regret that my kettle finally died about a month ago so I can no longer do a test to confirm what you are experiencing.
Andy Tobin The copper element doesn’t look too bad, but I can find spots from one part of the element to the other, where the continuity drops off. I might try sanding it a bit - of course, I can’t get to the inside of the copper coil, but as I’ve repaired this kettle so many times, I’d hate to trash it. Thanks for the suggestion - will investigate the element itself. And my sympathies to you and your family at the loss of your kettle....:)
@@Inisfad The kettle an be pretty much disassembled and the seal removed to take out the element comepletely. I recall doing that and diacovering my element was gone. It is a little bit of disassembly but getting it back together correctly is the harder trick. Try and determine if what you are checking is the actual two tips of the element and check for continuity at these points. If it is a corroded connection, try cleaning it up. I wish I had the kettle now to look at to be more precise in my directions.
Andy Tobin Ive had this kettle apart so many times...lol. Yes, I know exactly about the difficult of getting the element back where it belongs, as well as ensuring that the switch is slotted (and the little light is in the right place), etc. I’ve learned from experience! When you say the ‘tips’ of the element (or copper coil, I’m assuming) are you talking about the very beginning and the very end of the coil? Funnily enough, that’s where the coil appears to be blackened, whereas the rest of the coil, from about 1/4 in, until up the the last 1/4 of the coil, is copper colored. So maybe that’s stopping the continuity. Will check again. Thanks!
Andy Tobin Andy Tobin - I do not give up on my kettle!! I found another video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OA47maljsEo.html. I have the same problem - the plastic thermostat pin on my kettle is melted. Have you ever had such a problem, or do you know where I can get another thermostat pin??? :)
Unplug the kettle and make sure it is empty and cool. You will need an ohm meter or continuity tester to test the element to see if it is burnt out. The element that heats up the water is like an electric stove oven element and they can break and then electricity cannot flow through and the element will not heat up. A light bulb is the same principle. they work until the element blows. There are just two points on the element so it is very easy to test. It sounds like the kettle is getting the power but the element is burnt out and will not heat up. Have a good physical look at the element and you may see a burnt area of the element or a spot where it is cracked and/or discolored. Good luck. I hope you can get it to work.
Thanks a lot for this video , but can u please help me to fix a thermal switch which refuse to be latched on when I switch it "On" ..... the kettle boiling water , only I have to keep pressing the switch On by my finger, so how can I fix it please ?
As you may know, there is a thin metal plate that expands with the heat and at a certain temperature it will flex and cause the switch to flick the power off. That plate may be warped or not assembled properly.
Also , on the same kettle type (good condition one) I did notice that the thermal switch would not be latched "ON" unless the kettle was connected to the power , so why is that please ?...... is the elect. power effects on latching mechanism any way ?
That is a good idea. Good luck with that. In the worse case scenerio, you could run the kettle direct and unplug it as needed or jury rig something to hold down the switch until it boils. This, however is bypassing the safety feature so be very careful when using it in such a way.
I don't have my kettle apart right now but I do believe there is a thermal electronic part that would cut the power if the component got too hot. I cannot recall the wiring of it so I am not able to comment in a helpful way in that regard.
it works , but doesnt switch off .. Boils ( real fast ) , i can hear the electromechanical thermal switch click , but no off , trying to fix it for my sisters Friend @ work
By the way, It is normal for a kettle to stut off automatically once at the boilimg temperature. I just thought iId mention that but I am sure you know...
@@Tobinindustrial lol ye I know once reaches boring point it's automatically shuts off. I've got it working properly again now doesn't flick off until fully boiled. I think was loose connection cause I didn't do anything really just twiddle with the wires.
Sometimes this plunger does not trip out the kettle and it overheats causing theat peice to melt of become brittl and to break. I have never had to replace one but I think it may be a noin-serviceable part (not made for resale) Perhaps the spring may be replaceable and this plunger pin may be something that could be made at home. I have never attempted it but would highly suggest you replace the kettle or at least look for another for the said parts that may be needed. Remember, this is an electric appliance and any repair could possibly compromise the safety of the unit.
This repair is for the instruction of that plunger switch. I have no specific schematic for troubleshoot. The switch is pretty basic and makes and breaks contact. The element is checked for continuity to see it is is burned out like a bulb. If the cord and wall outlet is good, then the power is not getting to the element. There is not much else you can check as the path of electrictity to the heating coil is nearly a direct path besides the switch, flex heat sensitive metal plate and micro plunger switch.
Are referring to the micro-plunger switch? It is not necessary to remove it and spraying it and flicking it in and out should free it up. It may have corroded badly if left in ill repair and possibly it may need to be removed to be cleaned or even replaced. I do not believe, however, that there are available replacement parts for this so a new kettle would be the only option if it fails completely. Bypassing this switch is not recommended as it will be unsafe to use without a shutoff ability. You'd have to unplug the kettle to turn it off. That would be a hazardous sitiuation.
@@pek2602 It depends on usage. I use my kettle typically 4 - 6 times a day tp typically boil about 500 ml of water. My kettles last (with typical maintenance and repair) about 5 - 6 years.
My kettle works but the switch won't stay down. I spent $65 on it. The kettle boils if I put a little weight on the switch. Any idea of what the problem could be? it's just out of warranty. Thanks in advance. 😄
Thank you for your comment. I had a kettle about 7 years ago that did the same thing and I did repair it. Sadly, I did not do a video on it and I am not 100% sure what the issue was. Here is what you need to have a look at though. There is a "flexed" metal plate incorporated into the on/off switch and this may be warped from excessive heat and not flexing out when cool and expanding properly when hot to disengage the switch. Carefully disassemble that section of the kettle when UNPLUGGED and COOL and inspect it. It may be misaligned as well and not engaging properly. Do not attempt this is you are not comfortable working around electrical and have a skilled technician look at it for you.
@@Tobinindustrialregistered HVAC engineer and electrician. Electronics is a slightly different ballgame. I'll crack it open and have a look at it this weekend. Thanks for the responsd, bless you. 👍
There is a thin metal plate that is flexed inward when you engage the switch to on. Heat causes this metal to expand and at the proper temperature the metal, through the expansion process, unbuckles itself and causes the switched to be popped into the off position. This plate is either misaligned in the unit or it has warped and not reacting properly to the heat expansion do to it possibly being malformed or even cracked / broken. I would have a real close look at this and see what casn be dtected. Good luck. Let me know how you make out.
@@melvioferrao If you can determine that the plate is aligned properly then if you can remove the metal plate and inspect it, it should have a uniform even look on all the edges including the flat sides. I suspect there may be as spring that also keeps the switch engaged until the metal expands and pops. Perhaps you can safely watch the boiling procedure with the portion of the handle removed and see what happens. Be extra careful always around electricity and scalding water. Always work and play safe.
Does it run at all? If the elememnt is bad it won't do anything. If it is the element, then it is not worth ordering the element to replace it. They are cheaper to buy new. Did you check to see if that little plunger switch is unstuck and making connection? DId you check your wall plug for power? Did you check your cord?
