Yeah you definitely remind me of my electrical foreman. Straight to the point and can spew information like wild fire. Hope you have an apprentice that drives you crazy lol
I'm having trouble with a gc writing a proper schedule. The order of rough in stages he demands that we go into a building before plumbing and hvac. I need code articles that show industry standards for rough in stages. Weather it be Nec, Wac, building code or city standards. My understanding is plumbers have priority and can rip out our wire. If you have time. I love how you always reference code articles, it helps people like me build muscle memory.
Hey Bonnie, this is a very good topic for discussion and this question has came up multiple times in code classes that I have taken over many year. I hate to say this but truth be told, there are no codes wrote on job site priorities or order of importance ! If your general contractor has many years of experience🤔 This should not be an issue in a residential setting. There are many variables to why an electrician may want to get in before the plumber and HVAC. Mostly do to load center placement and wire routing of home runs. Some electricians just want to get in and get the job started to get a draw! Imo...This is not the best practice. My experience has been good with the GC I've worked for. There are many variables that come into play in this determination! But if all the subcontractors communicate well together this should be a mostly unflawed process! Plumbers HVAC and electricians will all have their opinions on this topic. My experience of (order of importance) No. 1 plumber for roughing in main drops vents and water lines. No. 2 HVAC contractor roughing in trunk lines, returns and line sets. No.3 electricians last. Keep this in mind🤔 It's much easier to re-route or bend wire around obstacles then it is to bend a large piece of duct work or piping that has to follow grade and pitch to achieve a proper water flow... Aka gravity! Current going through a wire is not affected by this. That's why electric is done last. I hope that helps. If your GC is adamant about allowing the electrician to start, hold him accountable for any wires that get cut and have to be replaced.
I was a firefighter and a union electrician, but as a child I had 2 home lost because of extension cords ! So I was a little anal with outlets, so I Always put outlets under every window and every 6 ft. In homes regardless of the codes most of the time only charged for the materials on the extra outlets . Also made sure that every hallway and stairway had at least one outlet for sweepers and nightlights. Then outside I would put an outlet on every side of the house on switches for low voltage lights and Christmas lights and one by the a/c unit plus the one on the deck . I know this may sound like over kill but down the road the homeowner loves that ! Sometimes they had me add outlets in the eves for lights too! But as I said I hate extension cords!!
The under-eve receptacles are a great idea! I'm in west Texas, and most all newer homes (built within the last several years) all have under-eve recep's, and most often, wired to a switch at the front door, to allow turning them on & off. (I hate extension cords too!)
I have put outlets in the overhangs on switches for several homes . Always tell customers it is much cheaper and zero demolition debris to put outlets , flex conduit for future speakes etc etc than wait until you live there a full year and then want add something
Hey Ron thanks for the info on the outlets I always wrap my outlets on the screws never did like the stab in the back of them, I myself have been to a few trouble calls where the whole room is dead and found that the stab wire come loose after a period of time. I am not a licensed electrician but have been in the trade 35 years . We did most industrial electrical services in plants and not much residential.To tell the truth I like residential wiring much better it beats running 4in rigid conduit and pulling in 750mcm in the ceilings.Thanks again for your advice its top notch and you do nice work.
Got it Ron thanks again for your help and your support is greatly appreciated.Love the videos they are very informative and helpful you do nice neat work.Will probably have a few more questions about lighting in my basement. Thanks
No outside service/emergency disconnect at your meter socket location? I thought these were required in 2020 NEC for new construction? Definitely required in 2023 Code cycle, and alao required to install if doing any panel or meter socket upgrades or replacement (at least here in Texas). Otherwise, beautiful looking job! Nice clean wiring. That's the way it should be done... Excellent workmanship! Thanks for sharing.
@@workingmanrondoyle3287 Ahhh... okay. Yeah, sometimes the local AHJ is a bit slow adopting the "curtent" rules. I'm in west Texas, and the state (of Texas) was pretty quick in adopting the '23 NEC, which almost immediately trickled-down to the local authorities. Thanks!
I thought that piece of plastic was a knockout because the NEC 2023 says 314.17(B)(2) Exception states, that where Romex is used "with a single gang nonmetallic boxes...and where the cable is fastened within 8" of the box measured along the sheath...securing the cable to the box shall not be required." Not sure about 2017 code.
All looks good, but you are missing a 200 Main Disconnect next to Meter as required in most locales now by the Code !! That would make the 200 Amp Panel inside a Sub Panel whereas the Neutrals and Grounds are NOT bonded and are separated from each other
Great video. Thank you so much for making it. Can you please explain, per the NEC, when it is possible to run the wires over the ceiling joists vs through them? I noticed in your video you have a combination of both methods. Thank you so much in advance.
Thanks for watching and commenting. 1)Wires can be ran over trusses that are not designed for floored walkways. 2) wires can be ran (behind knee walls) without drilling holes. If there is no knee wall present and walkway has been established (within the 6-ft rule) holes will need to be drilled. 3)wires can be ran directly over ceiling joist as long as the walkway =wood, plywood, OSB or etc...is 6' away or greater in distance away from your wires. If not, holes need to be drilled. 4) runner boards can also be installed that are higher than the wire installed as for physical protection. I hope that give you some better understanding of when holes are required?
Loved the video Brother. Hope you don't mind if I steal some thunder here. Home owners, this is the perfect time for you to review your new house. He mentioned many code requirements and made this a basic house. You may want something special and now is the time.... Power for heated towel racks so winter showers end in a "warm hug". A light and receptecle on the side of the house for wood splitting or a patio. Captain Christmss may want enough lights on the roof for Santa to land his sleigh.....receptecles in the soffette. Father Fright may want extra receptecles in the yard for his special day. The women of the house might need enough electricity at "The Make-up Center" to power the magic wands that take them from just out of bed to feeling like THE MOST BEAUTIFUL WOMEN IN THE WORLD. At this point in your build, it is easy to stick in extra wires to truely get the house of your dreams. Add some sheetrock and paint and you might be kicking your own behind.
Hey Keith, your not stealing my⚡ thunder brother, your adding to it. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please feel free to step in, anytime. I appreciate your thought process. It's very insightful ❤️. I only wished more people would add in the comments section like you. Thanks again brother!
Thanks for this video Ron, very educational and helpful! I've learned a lot from this. I am curious how you wire your 3-way switches, you only use 14-2 white romex? I am curious where you wire the 14-3 romex (if any). Thank you!
Hey Emily. Thanks for watching and commenting. There are more than 30 ways to wire up three way circuit. I've been debating on doing video's on all the different ways to do them. I feel it would confuse people to do so. So I'm still debating this topic 🤔 I know there's not many videos of this subject. Most three ways need 14-3 as travelers to complete such circuits. The easy way to do three ways without going into a lot of details 🤔 are as follows 1) run your feed 14-2 to one switch location 2) run the light's 14-2 to the opposite switch location 3) run a 14-3 traveler from one switch location to the other switch location. Now that the rough wire part is done. The wire up is next. Wire nut grounds first and add a pigtail for switch's green ground screw. Second, wire nut the (feed's neural) wire to the (light's neural) by connecting to the white wire of the 14-3 traveler at both ends. Third step, Install the red traveler from 14-3 to the screw terminal above the common at both ends. Then wire the black from the 14-3 to the terminal screw on the other side on both ends. Forth step, (Number one rule and Main rule of thumb) to always keep in mind in dealing with 3 ways!! Each switch location (has to have a common going to it)!! Each three way switch has a black screw terminal, this is known as the common screw terminal. One common is the feed's hot wire. And the other common is the light's black wire. Make sure those two wires are under the common black screws on each 3-way switch. Make all connections in a clockwise fashion and snug to manufacturers spec. Last but not least, install the light fixtures. Install all switches and cover plater. Turn on power when safe to do so. This is a lot to say in a message and I hope this didn't confuse you. Keep in mind, there are many ways to do this with this way being one of the easiest!
Hey Ron putting a exhaust fan in my basement bathroom with a water tight light in the stand up shower should I tie in the shower light with the exhaust fan or put the shower light on a separate switch?
Hey Ron watching your video on the rough in on the 1400 sq ft home in prince ann county, I see that you used 14/2 on the master bathroom vanity light and 14/3 on the exhaust fan with light. I like to install that on my bathroom.You also ran a separate 12/2 for the gfci outlet. Can I use a duel function 20 amp afci/gfci for the bathroom and install 15 amp switches and outlet.
Hello Larry, you may know this but I'll repeat this in case somebody else reads the comments section 🤔 All bathroom outlets have to be on a designated breaker (home run) for the bathrooms only and can not leave to feed things outside of a bathrooms. This bathroom home run can be connected to other bathrooms in the same living structure. Lights , exh-fans and heating exh-fans can be connected to this circuit on the same bathroom. If you do so and connect lighting to this bathroom circuit, all the wiring and switches have to be of a 20 amp rating. As to the NEC codes and as an electrician, I would only encourage this for lights and or exh-fans above showers and not lighting in the common bathroom area. Mostly due to 🤔 if the GFCI trips??? You'll be in the dark... Not a good thing. I hope that helps. Let me know if you don't understand.
Thanks for watching and the compliment ❤️. Yes, I was approached by the electrical inspector George Landing about 2 years ago. He asked me if, I would please consider teaching the electrical class at Wor-Wick community college 🤯 in Salisbury Maryland. I told him I would think about it🤔Ever since his death in 2022, the position has been vacant. Since then, I bumped into one of the administration staff at a local group meeting. She told me George Landing told her about me and that she's seen my video's 🤯. I guess the word gets around fast. I'm still thinking about it. Videos for me are much easier to do, in my opinion. Thanks for the suggestion 👍 Kaboom362
Thanks for watching and commenting. Great question. The color coding of NM wire commonly known as rol-max has changed over the years, in adding color for a quick identification of it's gauge. They are as follows White outer jacket 14-2 and 14-3 Yellow jacket 12-2 and 12-2 Yellow jacket with a red line is 12-2-2 this wire has two separate neutrals and two separate hots +ground. Orange is 10-2 and 10-3 Black outer jacket can be 8-2 , 8-3, 6-2 or 6-3 NM wires. I've heard the manufacturers will be adding other colors in the near future to differentiate wire sizes.
Hello Ron, I am rewatching your video, refreshing myself before my rough in inspection. What will you do with the water heater orange wiring? It's hanging near the wall, would you put it into a Armorlite Cable coat? Thank you!
Hey Emily, I wire directly to the water heater and use a breaker handle lockout Device on the breaker. The only reason I have to protect the wire is from physical damage. If it's in and environment where physical damage can happen such as a garage, utility room etc ..
Ron i live in harford county Md my question is what distance from a stand up shower can the exhaust fan be installed,also do you need afci/gfci on the basement outlets or can i use just afci.finishing my basement out.pretty sure i need them in the basement bathroom. Thanks
Hey Larry, thanks for watching and commenting. Good questions you have. A ceiling exhaust fan, can be right up to the outer rim of a shower enclosure without it being on a GFCI but must be AFCI protecting. But if you pass the rim or outer edge of the shower enclosure going inside the shower area, it has to be AFCI & GFCI protected. As to the question about basement outlet, all finished and unfinished areas of a basement (below grade) outlets have to be AFCI & GFCI protected in these spaces. This also includes lighting circuits entering this space. Bathroom outlets in basement only need GFCI protected outlets. I hope that helps you.
Hey Larry. I don't use the stab in's on the back side of the outlets if that's what your asking. I've personally seen them cause fires. No, I seldom use pigtailing. It's not a requirement unless your dealing with three or more wires going to an outlet. Then you have to.
Thanks for watching and commenting Kevin. Making up switch boxes on rough-in isn't a code requirements. I prefer to do them on trim-out. The outer NM jacket gives a little more protection from the drywaller's roto-zip and the painter's spraying my wires. It's hard to get grounded with paint and caulk all over my grounds, if you know what I mean 🤔
Thanks for watching and commenting. If your referring to the 14-2 NM dishwasher wire on this rough-in-phase? Wire can pass the finished wall surface in areas where the wire isn't subjected to physical damage. Under a dishwasher is consider safe area. (Code changes )= In years past the code allowed an dishwasher outlet to be installed. This practice is no longer allowed! The loose 14-2 NM wire that you see will be installed in the attached metal box on the bottom right front corner of the dishwasher at trim-out. Thanks for the comment. I hope that answers your question?
Help me understand the "6' from the door" requirement. If I have a long wall separating two habitable rooms with a door in the middle, do I have to have 4 outlets/receptacles within 6' of that door?
Well it depends if this long wall is considered a hall way or a living area? If it's living area, there needs to be an outlet on each wall over 24" wide. And an outlet no more then 6' away from the right and left side of each doorway. After you determine this layout, make sure there's no boxes spaced more then 12' apart. I hope that helped you. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Hello Ron, I'm planning on adding about 12 receptacle/switch boxes in a remodeled area, 3 rooms. I'm on the fence about using metal or plastic boxes. I'm ok with the extra expense, time, and hardware required for metal boxes including the necessary bonding wire. I'm only considering the 4x4 boxes and using the appropriate mud ring. Does this make sense or should I use plastic as is used almost exclusively in residential construction here in the USA? I'm in California. This is an older home and all the current boxes are small metal ones and are grounded and bonded to the ground/neutral bus bar at the main electrical panel. Thanks
Thanks Ted for watching and commenting 👍. There are a few factors in determining the proper boxes you would want to use on your project. 1) resident or commer. 2) wood or metal studs 3) are there suspended ceilings in the structure Where wire will be pulled? 4) type of wire used AR ,MC, NM or etc... 5) will conduit be used for raceways? 6) will things your doing now 🤔 be changed altered or modified in the near future as the purpose of theses ares may change? 7) will the boxes be exposed for a prolong period of time during the construction phase where your boxes may get damaged by the other tradesmen? 8) are there exposed studs in which to attach boxes? Or are there just bare concrete walls? These are all relative points in considering the proper boxes for your application. I know that's a lot of questions but these are things that have to be thought out to determine the best outcome for your project. I hope that helps 🤔
Interesting your drill line for plug to plug routing is below the boxes and not at knee hight for easy drilling and allowing all the wires to enter top of the box for easy makeup and coiling.
Good point you have made by observing the way I work. I like your thoughts on this topic and will try to keep this in mind going forward. Thanks for the suggestion and watching the channel my sparky brother from another mother 👍
Thanks for watching and commenting. This video is based on Maryland using the 2017 NEC codes. It probably wasn't clear enough to my viewers in this rough-in-video. I go over more details in trim-out-videos about the use of arc fault and GFCI usage. Thanks again for watching 👍🏻
I just think the code is seriously under counting the need for more outlets in rooms with the range and number of electrical devices I always install more including quads near to TV areas avoids more dangerous trailing extension leads.
Thank you Math Man, for watching and commenting ❤️ I agree with you on outlet count. I would normally install more outlets, if they request them. If I was building my personal house, I would have twice as many!
Hey John. Thanks for watching and commenting. The only aluminum is the 4/0 feeding the main breaker. All my branch circuit feeders are copper. But I would mention some of the supply houses are trying to push the new copper cladded aluminum wire now. I'm not budging on that stuff. Not gonna use it..
7 out of 10 people (i made those numbers up) usually end up putting or wanting a receptacle behind the TV so no cables are visible, why don't electricians just put an outlet higher up from the start?
Great comment, thanks for watching. I give people the option but most people don't want to spend the extra money to do so. When it's a spec home most of the time builders want the bare basics to keep cost down. None the less, great observation. 👍🏻👍🏻
Why not just put an outlet every 6ft amd be good? They're cheap when the studs are showing. One added after the fact will cost as much as doubling them from the start.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Your right about that. Much cheaper now than later. Most houses in my videos are single family starter home that need to be kept affordable. Placing outlets to the NEC standards is a must to achieve the cheapest cost to build. If I did an outlet ever 6' would drive up cost of each job and the contractor would hire a different electrician.
That is a very good question. I don't coil the Rg-6 for it doesn't hold a tight coil. The drywallers will strike them with rota- zip cutters. And could possibly kink the line if coiled to tight, thus causing a weak signal on the line. Thanks for watching 👍
Thanks for watching and commenting. I would agree with you on that one. I never carried for doing it that way. But sadly Maryland is still on the 2017 code which allows it.
