The best part of owning an EV is that we can now fill up our cars at home and start the day with a full “tank” every single day. Glad to see y’all feature these as **so many** people are confused about the current state of EV tech.
@@2loco Kinda like when all the gas stations run out of fuel during hurricanes and situations of evacuation right? Stop looking for a problem where there isn't one yet.
While my house was being built, I asked the company we bought the lot and design from to bring over and install a 220A receptacle in the garage because we were thinking of buying an electric car; the contractor installed a 14-50R receptacle just like in the demonstration mockup that Heath was showing Kevin. So if you're thinking of buying a new house and you have a chance to do it, I strongly recommend you ask for a 220V outlet in your new garage even if you don't plan to buy an EV yet.
Or you can just wire it yourself and save you thousands. If you are too worried about connecting to the service panel, then just hire someone to make the final connections
On a new house, I would strongly suggest having a sub panel installed in the garage. It may actually be cheaper. Think about this. Say you want two 20 amp circuits and one 50 amp 240 circuit for a welder. Well the electrician is going to have to run three individual feeds from the main to the garage. Now if you have a sub panel, the electrician only has to run one circuit to the sub panel. Sure the panel may cost some money, but you will save a lot in labor.
@@patty109109 it can be done in aluminum if the wires are overssized 2 guages( ie #4 aluminum vs #6 copper ) and the electrician knows to use anti-oxidation grease on the freshly bared aluminum wire. Copper is easier, just more expensive and not everyone knows how to do aluminum wiring.
It's important to also mention that you can get a level 2 charger that installs on a 20a 240v circuit. That's much more likely to "fit" on a 100a service and still charges 3x as fast as level 1 (part of the gain come from L2 charging being more efficient than L1 charging).
This is a really good point. L2 charging just means 240V, AC. But there's different chargers with different current capacities that are all L2. These are generally 20A, 30A and 40A (shown in the video). The lowest level of L2 charging, A 240V charger on a 20A circuit, delivers about 3.8 kW to the vehicle (deducting 10% overhead and 10% inefficiency from the theoretical max of 240 * 20 = 4.8kW). Assuming the vehicle has the industry average efficiency of 0.35 kWh / mile, such a charger gives you about 11 miles of range per hour of charging. So at 20A, 240V, you recover about 100-120 miles of range plugging in overnight (say charging between 9 to 11 hours), or around 60 miles if you set it to charge just (say) from midnight to 5am(ish) to exploit off-peak electricity rates. For a lot of people, that's plenty for a daily commute. The 40A circuit shown in the video will deliver about 22-30 miles per hour of charge (depending on the efficiency of the vehicle), which is obviously better and can likely take any vehicle on the market and charge it from completely empty to full overnight. However that's really only necessary for people that will regularly use most of the entire battery capacity of their vehicle in a single day, and then need to be able to do the same thing the next day. If that's you, of course, that's what you need. But for most people I submit that's overkill. The 240V, 20A outlet will likely suit most people's needs and will generally be much cheaper to install.
This is an important point, one that most electricians are not aware of. If your electrician says you need a panel upgrade, ask if 20 A will fit without upgrading. Another option is to replace an old electric water heater or stove with a gas one, freeing up space for an EV charging unit.
@@georgepelton5645 Better still upgrade and replace the old hot water heater with a heat pump hot water heater, cheaper than gas and the IRA will pay for most of the cost starting soon.
Really depends on the total load of all the sources on the main. Tying up a circuit with a 20amp draw for that many hours plus a dryer plus AC or heater, frig, microwave, oven or stove? Now you're taking about a maxed out 100 amp main panel. A modern 200 amp main is simply more robust and allows your electrical system to breath easier. Another important consideration is if there's a chance of adding solar in the future. In that case, a 200 amp main panel is a must. That's also why all new homes are built with a 200.
@@rkgsd yes that's true. My point is just that 20a is more likely to fit on the panel than a larger load would be. Maxing out the panel isn't optimal but it may be preferable to spending thousands on a service upgrade.
I have a Bolt EV and installed exactly this model charger with a 40 amp breaker-32 amp continuous (as that is the most my car can take). After 1 year the breaker gave out due to the heavy continuous pull. I replaced the breaker but then changed the settings on my ChargePoint to be a 30 Amp max setting and I haven’t had any problems since. Sure I now add 20 miles per hrs instead of 27 but that is still way more than enough to charge what I need. It will still charge to full overnight on the rare cases I ever drain it all the way in a day.
Anyone who lives in a condo or apartment where charging or power isn't easy to get near your parking spots need to have your landlord look into installing EV Chargers. There are incentives for multifamily properties to install chargers. It's also a nice amenity to provide when they put units on the market.
My Tesla charger was $400 the outlet and breaker along with the wire cost me $70. I installed it myself for free three years ago and all has been good. I spend between $60 to $80 a month charging my car as the Tesla app calculates it based on my .12 a KW utility charge. I have a 85% charge every morning ready to go. Not good to fully charge unless your going on a trip as soon as its full. Also since I typically drive about 100 miles a day give or take I set up the app to charge at 20 amps so its not pulling a ton of power. I set it up to be ready by 8 am so it usually doesn't even start charging until 2 or 3 in the morning to be full and ready at 8.
No EV for me, a recent smallish wind rain event in my area the electricity failed third time in as many months, tonight was at 11pm remains in/op until 6pm two days later. The line crews were working hard with lots to do. Not enough seasonal line clearing. I live in PNW lots of good clean hydro power when it works... EVs r not emission free. Tons of Co2 in production and operation.
@@timbaxley383 you could still charge at a charging station in that situation but I have a diesel truck and a gas truck so I'm good to go in almost any situation.
@@timbaxley383 You will own EV when gas prices hover around 10 bucks a gallon by 2030. I also live in PNW, Olympia, Wa. We'll most likely be sharing our surplus electricity with SW states really soon. Grand Cooley and Grandview dams are ready to go offline soon. Go read about Lake, Mead, Lake Powell, Salt Lake, and Colorado River drying up. So is Mississippi, Missouri, and Ohio rivers.
I think it’s important to note that the car itself is usually capable of timing the charge and shutting it off at a particular battery level. There’s often no need for a more expensive charger with the features. You are duplicating.
That is correct: the timing, duration and amount of charge is set via the vehicle, not the Level 1 or Level 2 wall unit. So there is no real advantage to a Wi-Fi equipped wall unit. Also, the “wall unit” only supplies 240 volts AC at the specified amperage to the vehicle. It does not convert AC to DC which is required to charge the battery. The AC to DC conversion is done inside the vehicle. A Level 3 charger actually does supply DC to the vehicle. However Level 3 chargers require three phase current which is not available in most homes.
Folks should keep in mind that some power companies allow for discounts for various scenarios where they can control or monitor the EVSE. A "smart" EVSE may be required in those situations (and currently in the US, it sometimes is even only specific models supported - hopefully a standard like OCPP gets more widely adopted here).
@@kbanghart Yes “Level 3 “ EV chargers are extremely expensive, but a lot of that expense comes from the requirement for 3-phase electricity which requires three transformers and is not normally available for home use because of the expense.
Thank you SO much for mentioning you can use a standard outlet for electric vehicles. Alot of people think they need special outlets just for short commutes and it turns them off. In reality you can get buy with just a standard plug day to day and go to quick chargers if you need a longer trip
People who are planning to get an EV should watch this video first. This has a lot of info in a short video. They sum it up very nicely that even a kid can understand it. Like, for level 1 don't expect to get 48A on that. For level 2 NEMA 14-50, don't expect to get 48A unless you hardwire the charger. Meaning, cut off the plug and connect it directly to power source. Also, EV Charger now adays ranges from $199 to over a thousand.
When I bought my Chevy Bolt for the first few months I relied on the L1 charger that came with my car, no problem with my ~25 mile daily commute. Eventually I did install an L2 charger to give me the option to charge faster if I needed to and to get additional features and reporting from my "smart" EVSE (JuiceBox Pro). In my case since I have a detached garage I was only able to pull a 40A total circuit without trenching and concrete work so even though my EVSE can charge at up to 40A I have to limit it to 32A which is not really a limitation since my car can only charge at 32A anyways (though newer EVs frequently charge at 40A or more). Most EVSEs allow for your to specify a lower maximum current in case there are limitations on your electrical service.
So you must have two cars. The business commute and one for real life. Most people cannot afford the ridiculous cost of the EV’s. Also, the charges are slow and expensive if you travel outside a hometown. Too bad our political system will not ignore their stubbornness to use the fast chargers that Israel uses and many are produced in China.
@@robinrobine8100 except EVs aren't a ridiculous cost right now. Pull up any upp and i see lots slightly used for 20k or less. Right now, I have a Kia Sorento, V6, average mpg 21 mpg mixed use. I spend at LEAST $250 a month on gas, more towards 300. If I trade it in and finance a slightly used car, I will have a payment but I will have already been paying that in gas and maintenance anyway. My Kia burns oil, has a lot of miles, so I'm constantly worrying and checking and adding full synthetic which is $$. I can't wait to get a vehicle with less maintenance.
@@robinrobine8100 also, lots of people can make do unless they have a Nissan leaf or something which has very limited miles, but a lot of EVS get over 200 mi.
In reality you'd rarely see this specific outlet behind a stove or dryer. Before EVSEs these 14-50 outlets were mostly used for RVs. Still for the average consumer with limited electrical knowledge the difference in specific outlets isn't as important as long as the person who installs the outlet is knowledgeable enough to install the right one for the application.
@@raitchison For an electric stove a NEMA 14-50 would be typical. For an electric dryer a NEMA 14-30 would be typical. Older homes might have the versions without a ground pin that are no longer code. But I assume the "potentially" usage was mainly for folks that have gas versions of such appliances and thus wouldn't need a 240V supply.
If you have an all electric home (water heater, range, dryer) their are smart charge systems that will work for you. Basically it uses the available power from your panel. So if you get home plug in the car and turn on the stove the charger will draw less power so you don't trip your main breaker. Once you go to bed though and the oven and dryer are off it'll ramp up and take advantage of the available power.
It’s the device you use to make the car go charge. Where the conversion of the electric details happens is completely irrelevant for the user. You shouldn’t smartass so much.
Technically, the charger is in the vehicle. The vehicle can only charge at the speed the onboard charger can handle. The cable between the receptacle and vehicle is the Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment or EVSE (not a charger).
Correct, the point of the evse is to tell the car the size of circuit it is installed on and to turn power on an off to the 240v wires in the charging cord when the car tells it to. The the car's on-board charger then decides how much current to pull without exceeding safe limit of wiring based on what the evse tells the car is safe (assuming the right size evse was installed for the home's wiring). The release button on the cord's charging nozzle also immediately tells the evse to cut power when depressed to prevent arching while unplugging. Therefore, most people only need a dumb $400-500 level 2 evse unless you have an older electric car that doesn't allow you to schedule charging, or for some reason you really want to monitor energy being delivered to car vs time via a smart evse's app.
Professor, this is what is known as "a distinction without a difference". The fact is that if I buy a car I can't change it. But I can decide what kind of "thingie" I buy to connect to my "car that is a charger". I am not going to buy a "thingie" for my home and then go out and by a "car that is a charger". Capish? But thank you for the extra information. Now, back to the "Electrical Vehicle Chargers" video so we can learn something practical.
I fought a Tesla 3 years ago as a daily commuter. Put 70,000 miles on it already. Installed the Tesla Wall Connector in my garage for charging. Very easy project. We love the car so much we bought a second for my wife and I installed a second Wall Connector which power shares the same 60 amp breaker. Fantastic ownership experience. Now the F-150 just sits in the driveway looking lonely…waiting for a chance to pull the boat.
First thing to note, most people drive less than 30 miles a day which means the level 1 charger is generally fine (car spend 10 hours at home per day with even more on "weekends"). It's what I use I do have to be aware when I need to take a longer trip and make sure I'm charged a couple of days in advance. Second 50 amp is likely overkill 32 amps (40amp line) will get what you want with way less hassle because those lines have better odds of being in your garage and if they aren't are going to be cheaper. You can get cords for $300. Because they aren't chargers and only serve to limit the amps that go into a car a "good one" doesn't exist its just gold plated hdmi cables for $70 all over again. (Assuming it's ul certified)
there are definitely good and bad ones these units aren't dumb they have microprocessors to handle the communication with your car cheap ones will die quickly or stop charging your car randomly just read the reviews like any other product you buy
You must never have emergencies that pop up out of the blue. Sure they may be rare but having to charge for hours just to get to a faster charging station only to wait another hour its crazy to think about.
@@donsolo6697 If you're running low on gas on your way home, you might decide to just go home and then drive to the gas station first thing in the morning. You don't have a gas station at home, so when an emergency arises in the middle of the night, you're in real trouble. Just to play it safe, it's best to never drive an ICE vehicle. ICE vehicles are just not worth the risk. If you care about your family, get rid of your ICE vehicles.
@@donsolo6697 the average commute is about 40 miles if you plug in every day for 12h at 3mi/hr rate you would leave the next day just 4 miles less range than the day before. With a 250mi range car on Friday you'd have 230mi of range. With level 2 you would leave the house every morning with a full "trayck of gas". And, the latest EVs like the Ionq 5 can fast charge for 68 miles of range in 5 minutes.
@@timbaker5014 Example Lets say you only use the level 1 charger that takes 10 hours to charge you come home from work plug in your car a hour later something comes up and you need to drive to somewhere quickly your SOL. at best you drive to nearest fast charger but your still loooking at 45mins plus
Even with a 100 amp main panel you could install a 30 amp breaker (24 amp draw) and start charging after 9pm (no oven, etc being run). ala 17+ miles added per hour (so 10 hrs overnight = 170 miles). Also the grid has PLENTY of extra energy after 9pm/overnight. Most new homes are 200 amps it seems.
@@jptrainor Well it is standard practice already in all examples I've seen. If you go to virtually any main panel and add up the circuit breaker values they are pretty far over the main amp coming in. I see this on my kids 100 amp panel as well as our own 200 amp panel. For things like A/C or fridges the motors have a start up load that is pretty high but then it drops in a second or two. Resistive heaters are a different thing. In my kids 100 amp panel he does have a 50 amp heater and a 30 amp A/C unit but those wouldn't be on at the same time ie. thermostat is either set to heat or cool mode. He has several 15 and 20 amp circuits too. HTH
Even a 20 amp breaker with a 15 amp EVSE is 4 times faster than L1 charging and much cheaper to install. People oversize their EV solution for some reason.
@@thedopplereffect00 I'm really confused by your 4 times remark. L1 is 120v. Can you show your math please? Watts = Amps x Volts. 1800w = 15a x 120v vs 1440w = 12a x 120v --- are you talking about at 240v EVSE which still isn't 4 times? 3600w = 15a x 240v. Thx.
@@Scott-sm9nm yes, your math was good. Researching this, a 16A EVSE @240V will be 2.67 times faster than a 120V L1 charger at 12A, which is the max you can pull from a single outlet. So I exaggerated a bit.
I had a 100 amp service and self installed my Tesla Wall Connector with a 60 amp breaker. All Electric appliances and heat and had no issues. I did purposely set my charge rate to 32 amp and charges at 30 mph on my Model 3, but have the option to charge at 48 amp should I need it.
Don't forget about the 240V/20A option which charges at ~3.8kW and can be wired with a standard 20A Romex cable. It'll pull 16a at 220VAC through a NEMA 6-20 outlet. The 220V/50A( NEM 14-50 ) EVSE setup shown pulls a max of 40A for ~7.9kW charge rate. The 120V Level 1 shown will only pull 12A max and sometimes car default to 8A with those because it's likely people will plug into a circuit already having other loads on it. I know electricians would love to also sell a full mains panel upgrade but the NEMA 6-20 can be an option for those who don't want to drop another $1000+ for the service upgrade and can accept a 6-10 hour charge to get 200+ mi range added over night.
Another option. For most EV's, unless you drive a lot, you can live off a 240 volt 20 amp outlet, called a NEMA 6-20. The big 14-50 shown here can supply Tesla Model Y (the biggest selling EV) with roughly 29 miles of range for each hour of charging, which is 232 miles of range in 8 hours of charging. The smaller NEMA 6-20 outlet provides 14 miles of range for 8 hours of charging for the same Model Y. For many folks, this is more than enough, especially as most locations have Supercharger stations close enough for top off's
Good for you. I have 100 amp service. All gas powered, gas water heater, gas stove and gas boiler, so I have enough amp for electric car. Lucky me as well.
Good for both of you, I have a 225 amp service along with 2 100 amp sub panels, one in the attached garage and one in a detached garage. So 👅! And I run welders and plasma cutters on my 50 receptacles, not no stinking ev.💪😆👊
Not all 240V outlets are rated for constant duty cycle (meaning energized for many hours at a time). Not all commercial conductors are up to the task. The cheap $15 ones can melt and represent a fire risk. So if you are installing a NEMA 14/50, make it a very very good one (or hard wire the charger to a disconnect and a panel).
Level 2 chargers that can do 32 amps can be had for $200 bucks. These things are not that expensive. Also the level 1 yes 3-5 miles an hour but a car is plugged in whenever at home. Most people spend closer to 12 hours at home, which means closer to 40-60 miles a night.
That's a great calculation. My commute each day is about 40 miles. If I'm home by 5pm and leave by 7:30am, that's 14.5 hours. So say 12 hours is good if I have to run some extra errands. It'll keep me topped up throughout the week, and on weekends if I'm home I'm not going anywhere, but it I'm out and about finding a level 2 charger shouldn't be hard. Definitely thinking about an EV in the near future!
Wow, this has made me realise just how much more US households consume compared with UK/Europe. In the UK we're advised that if we have a 60amp fuse we should "probably" upgrade to 100 when fitting a charger.
Interestingly, in the UK when we install what is a 7 kW 32 amp charger. We also install a clamp meter on the incoming supply. This allows a charger to balance a load and reduce a load to the car if this other electrical drawers on the system.
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That’s not absolute… depends on the efficiency of the car. I get 5 miles per kwh so a 12.5kw charger (50 amp, 240v) gives me 62 miles of charge each hour
I'm lucky enough to live in an area where the local power utility sent me a Clipper Creek charger for free (Yes, FREE!), but they also have an additional incentive of a credit towards electricity used between midnight and 6am of $0.015 per Kwh. I then worked with my dad who is an electrician to wire up the charger. The whole thing probably cost around $50 in conduit and wire at most. That was 3 years ago, and it's still going strong. My wife and a I both have EVs and we have easily saved thousands of dollars between us on fuel costs, not to mention around time saved due to not having to drive to a gas station and wait to pump gas, which amounts to 4-5 hours for each of us per year at an absolute minimum.
My commute is 20 miles each way, and we charge our car with a normal receptical (level 1) just fine. Your car is parked overnight anyway, so the 10+ hours it's home is actually 30-50 miles charged.
Monroe Live has a video on urgent safety for home charging. The cheap outlets for dryers and range bought from box stores are catching on fire. Cheap 240v breakers are melting. They recommend direct wiring without outlet. If you're using outlet, they recommend Hubbell brand. They cost about 120.00 but very heavy-duty. Also run heavier wire than called for.
Which models has a on and off switch so your unit won't be ghosting electricity and one that does not have to have the internet at all and has a dual plug-in for two cars hardwired
Can you make a video on how to built a solar standalone charger that can supply a power as much as 50amp 240v circuit? Including how big of a power wall it may need and how many charging cycles potentially it can last up to, etc..
You forgot a few facts. The charger itself is actually built into the car, and these "chargers" (as you misidentify them) are just elaborate connection devices. You also might also want to mention that level three charging is direct current, something never available in a typical house.
If you use a NEMA 14-50 connector, make sure to get an industrial grade version, instead of the cheap $10 plastic ones used for dryers, washers..etc. There's been some situations of these connectors melting because of the high continuous draw
Shift your charging to overnite hours when your sleeping when your electric usage drops to near zero…… use a sub panel with a direct connection to avoid all those loose overheating connections and avoid charging your vehicle above 77.3%
I understand that the National Energy Code requires that the wall outlet for a Level 2 charger have a GCFI breaker, and that can present charging problems. May be better to direct wire it. Talk to your electrician about this.
VERY IMPORTANT! If you're going to install a 240v 14-50 receptacle in your home for the purpose of charging an electric vehicle, be sure to get a heavy-duty receptacle. The $15 one at your home improvement store is not built to run for hours at a time at high amps. It will overheat and melt and eventually cause a fire. Look for the EV symbol on the outlet. The heavy duty one will run $60-$100. A little bit more will save your home.
None of those are chargers. It's an evse. Or more simply it's just an extension cord that tells the car how much power it's allowed to pull. The chargers are in the car and all the control logic is in the car. Those plugs just send power from the wall unmodified to the car.
what happens if the cord gets nick in it exposing the hot wire and you are plugging in car out in the rain you happen to touch the bare wire while it is charging??
I would stress that you really don’t need a service upgrade, even if you’re on 100A service. You use your dryer a few hours a week. You use your stove an hour or two a day. The other 95% of the time, that same capacity could be used to charge an EV. There are solutions out there that will automatically cut power to the EV charger when, say, your dryer is started, and then returns to charging once the dryer is finished. Failing that, almost no one needs a full 50A circuit for EV charging. Put in a 30A or 20A (240V) one instead. You’ll still get much faster charging than Level 1, without the need for an expensive service upgrade.
So how do you deal with GFCI protection? New NEC code wants GFCI protection if you put a 220 V receptacle in your garage. Seems most EV chargers will trip the GFCI breakers these days.
Just wanted to chime in and say that this info is great and accurate, but I would point out that a lot of good “Level 2” wall boxes like what is shown here can be bought for closer to $500 than $1,000. Plus, the federal government currently has a small tax rebate incentive to help offset the cost of installation of such equipment / receptacles that you may be able to qualify for.
If you have installed an EV Charger in your residential garage, which is connected to your electrical panel, is it advisable to switch off the electricity to it when not in use?
Tesla has minimal markup on their wall connector around $450. Many other cars brands have doubled the cost on their wall connectors.remember the actual CHARGER for level 2 is on the vehicle ranging from 3-19 kw. The onboard charger determines speed of charge as well as amps of circuit you plug into. Many EV’s only have 3-6 kw on board level 2 chargers. More premium brands more expensive 11 kw on board chargers. Most public chargers are only slow level 2. Most Public level 3 average 50 kw. All Tesla charging stations are level 3 120-250kw. We need more level 3 at least 120 kw to real get EV adoption. You can also use your nema mobile cable on a dryer outlet if one in the garage. If visiting friends use their garage dryer plug with your nema cable.
I really don't like the outlet solution. It's better to hard wire them to eliminate a failure point. If you ever need to upgrade the EVSE, it's not that hard to wire in a new one from the junction box.
Just make sure it's an industrial 14-50 if you go that route - easier for moving houses / plugging in other things like an RV or welder, won't require an electrician for the next guy charging his EV.
PLEASE! The "CHARGERS" are IN THE CAR. These Level 1 and 2 are just super safe EXTENSION Cords, and the part that plugs into your EV ARE DEAD DEAD and SAFE until they are plugged into the car. On the other hand... LEVEL 3 or DC Fast Chargers, bypass the chargers IN your car, and go DIRECTLY to your battery..
One thing they didn't not mention is that if you plan to use your car as a backup battery for your house and back feed your panel then you want a type 2 charger so that you can feed both sides of your panel
Be mindful that if you choose to not do a hardwired installation for your EV charger and go with a 240v range receptacle to plug directly into potentially you may need to GFCI protect at the breaker depending on your local codes. These breakers can be incredibly expensive and can be hard to find depending on the sensitivity of your specific charger.
Ditto to what Brendan said, except it's not a "may need" it's a requirement. If the EVSE is hard-wired it is exempt, but receptacle-wired EVSEs _MUST_ be fed by a GFCI protected circuit. This typically means a GFCI version of a 2-pole breaker.
Incredibly expensive is a bit of an exaggeration. For snap in panels we are talking usually under $150 - $200 tops. As of October 2022 it looks like just GE snap on breakers are hard to get. That's still no big deal, you can always just use a "spa panel" right next to your 50 amp outlet.
in my area electricians are pushing those 50 amp outlets now because nobody has adopted the 2020 NEC code requiring GFCI. I'm sure that will be a consideration in the near future.
A new 60-amp circuit for a Tesla Charging Port will cost anywhere from $600-$2500 depending the work involved from getting that circuit form the panel to garage/ exterior area. If you decide you want the NEMA 14-50 configuration its going to be about the same. I have a couple of videos on my page if you're interested.
I was surprised to find out that Tesla incorporates a temperature sensor in their EVSE wall plugs. This really emphasizes the need to use an industrial-grade receptacle. The extra cost for a Hubbell (or similar) 14-50 receptacle (around $100) is small compared with the total price of installation and the consequences if a fire starts.
A 14-50 is not the way to go for permanent home EV charging installations. If installing a new circuit, you should hard wire a charger. It's safer and will save you from melted plugs/receptacle. It will also charge faster! The receptacle shown in the video is a 14-50 which is limited to 40 amps EV charging. Hard wired chargers can charge at 48 amps or above. As an example a Tesla charger can supply up to 48 amps and installs on a 60 amp circuit. Tesla does not sell a wall charger that plugs into a receptacle...only the mobile charger plugs in.
I'm hearing that the 240V plugs usually used for dryer or stove may have to have the electrical code changed for electric cars. The outlets are intended for appliances that cycle on and off during use ( cooling during regular off periods) and not continuous pull of power for charging a electric car. I've heard multiple reports of melted plugs (potential fire) when used for level 2 car changing. I'm hearing for the time being it is best to hard wire level 2 chargers to the breaker box.
Thanks a lot for that video! Off topic: I want to use the ToH app on fire TV, but it’s not available all over the world, in my country it’s not available. Can you make it available worldwide? Would be great to watch your show on the big screen 😉
@@woodstream6137 Thats true, but I don’t want to pay extra, just to have access to something, that is available in my country via browser (i.e. no country restrictions are blocking the access to the content). I think it may just be either some licensing stuff for the used software or some minor tweaks in the settings on where to publish the app 😉
Very informative and concise. Well worth the 6 minutes. If the garage is full of stuff and the EV parks in the yard or on the street how far can I run the extension cord, legally?
I have it installed at the garage door and when I don't park inside, I just back up to the garage. and the cord reaches to the car without any extension cord. you can buy chargers 20 and 30ft cords.
I don't even have a garage. My electrician installed my Wall Connector on the outside wall of my house and I can charge in the driveway, whatever the weather.
I do not yet have a EV, but did I make mistake by installing the 240v outlet in wall furthest from garage door? My new detached garage has 200 amp service, and walls are already insulated, drywalled & painted. Where on EV’s do they mate to the charging plug?
Installed 50 amp breaker & Chargepoint Home Flex. Just had installed the chargepoint home Flex into a 1450 charger receptical, with 50 amp breaker & plug professionally installed. My question is, I need 75 miles added to my car, and the first time plugging in, it's telling me 6 hours plus. That is about 12.5 miles input per hour. Not being an electrician, what else should I check or do so that it's putting out 25 to 30 miles charging per hour, similar to on the road level II chargers?
3-5 miles per charge is realistically more like 40-50 miles for an overnight charge. I mean most people aren't coming home at midnight and leaving at 7AM.
I have a neighbor who doesn't have a garage. They have a small box they installed on the side of their house (alternatively you can build one next to your driveway/parking spot. It doesn't need to be mounted to a building.) They are indeed weather-proof. If they weren't, they'd be very impractical!
@@richardb.5691 Apartment living is indeed a pain point in EV charging... But hopefully with some policy changes and increased adoption, more apartments/condo complexes can offer charging at parking spaces for their residents. I've seen some creative methods for on street parking chargers too! One involved a cord that could be deployed/retracted from an overhead power line. You use an app to ask the charging cable to be sent down, then you just plug in. I was surprised to see several of these kinds of chargers in the wild! They could be used in a lot of city parking scenarios! That said, if you don't have access to at home charging, right now your best option is to try to get an EV with longer range and fast charging. (Some can charge at DC fast chargers from 10%-80% in under 20 minutes... Though they're expensive right now). Electricity is already easier to access than a gas station in most of the country... We just need to add outlets for people to use in the right places!
@@ChristopherFerguson personally I think electric cars, solar panels and wind mills generators are very bad for the environment more so than gas or oil. People don't stop and think about the total life cycle from the beginning with rare metal to the what happens to all these harmful metals after they are no longer useful. Prime example, an EV takes on average 54% more precious metals. This translates to a huge amount of strip mining,. 100 of thousands of acres destroyed that can never be used again. You can even grow on it because you have stripped all it's nutrients out. Not to mention you have increased the carbon footprint because you just cut down a forest to get the metals. The forest that uses CO2 for photosynthesis. When you cut a tree down you then release the trees caron into the atmosphere. Versus drilling a 8 inch hole to get oil out of the ground. Oil drilling wins
I think you should have mentioned that there are still three plug types in the US, Tesla, chademo, and j1772. What was shown is the j1772 plug, but Tesla currently has over 80% of the US market.
CHAdeMO is a level 3 fast charging standard - nothing to do with home charging. ALL non-Tesla EVs and PHEVs come with J1772. Teslas can accept J1772 with a simple adapter they all come with. The Tesla mobile charger plugs into a NEMA 1450 as was shown in this video. No need to make home charging complicated.
Varies greatly based on your electricity rates and your EV (and how you drive it). Where I live, off peak rate overnight is $0.11 per kwh. That translates to about $4.50 for 100 miles in my BMW x5 45e. So about 1/4 the cost of gas.
Here it is 7 cents per kw/h. Each Kw equals ~2 miles. So to put it in perspective of gas, the cost of one gallon of gas will get you 51 miles of range in the EV.
My power bill for me being single is over $200 a month in California I have electric everything fridge dryer that's outrageous because I don't even run my air conditioning maybe once in a great while when it gets too hot and my bill is still like that what they need to do is lower the energy cost
