When I started my first employment at STL research labs in Harlow I was amazed at how much was thrown away. I asked permission and started to harvest components from protypes that were going in the bin. One year later I left to join the city of London. I had to borrow the company 110 landrover as I had collected so many bits. 40 years later I still have copious amounts of TTL chips i use in my hobby of repairing old electronics
I purchased a 32+12 channel mixer Yamaha something still in working order. Reason being.... Although I love music I ultimately bought it for the 600+ potentiometers, various switches, buttons, and most importantly the sliders for my future parts bins when it does finally become inoperable to the point I can't repair it. I couldn't touch 600+ quality pots for the price I did pay. They basically paid me to take it. Great content here 👍👍👍
Ironically I play these salvage videos in the background while I do the same thing. These parts make great repair and project parts. I’ve found some very interesting professional laboratory equipment in the e-waste and the precision components I saved are not easy to source. When the boards are thin and use leaded solder it goes MUCH quicker and less aggravation.
Hi Richard, greetings from Australia :-} . The easiest way to remove a row of through hole pins is solder a copper wire along all of them, with each one of them being soldered to the wire. Then, heating the wire in the middle should spread the heat to all of them at the same time, and if it is only a single row, they should fall out nicely. If it is more than one row, you can do each row in turn pulling the device out on the other side, or, if the rows are close to each other, you could make an "U" (or "S") shape of the copper wire (or a full loop) to heat all the pins at the same time. Regards, Jerry.
The easiest and least faffy way is to use a longer spade/blade bit for your iron. Or, you can get some that are designed to heat both sides of a DIP IC at the same time, via s spaced dual blade.
I have my parts drawers labelled say, FET Op-Amps, Bipolar Op-Amps, Comparators, Small Signal Transistors, Power Transistors etc. Logic I tend to label each drawer with 3 4000 or 3 7400 series in each drawer. I have more parts to go in the drawers, and I've bought some more drawers, and I've been thinking about a better way of organizing as I have so many parts. I think I'm going to just label each set of drawers A, B, C etc. Label the drawers 1, 2, 3 etc. and then have word processor documents with the parts in alphabetical / numerical order. Type order etc. and then the location code A1............A32, B1............B32 and so on. This way, if I get additional parts not already in my stock I don't have to re-label drawers, I just have to edit the index documents on the computer, I can also print off and laminate the index pages in case the computer is off while I'm working on a project.
@@peddersoldchap Yes. Basically. ATM it's a bit confusing in that it's easy to miss things as they are not in any alphabetical or numerical order apart from the 4000 Series CMOS and 7400 Series logic.
The first time i bought my soldering station i salvaged all components i could find from old boards except plastic connectors now i have nothing to desolder lmao also you can use pads from scrap boards to repair any stripped pads but i realized that it's much easier to use a board holder for desoldering in general
Hi dicky, when you salvage these components, wouldn’t it be easier to use a thicker leaded solder? With the bc3 tip it would make it child’s play. Only a question before I get any dislikes.. 🤙🏼🇦🇺 Joe from Australia 🤙🏼🇦🇺
One thing I think we can say is salvaged components, especially things like high power transistors, will definitely be original where as new ones may well be fake especially from China. Same applies to fast op amps and similar devices. Other than that there is probably not much difference. Components don't tend to fail with age. Yeah some electrolytics will dry out but that mostly seems to affect ones from the early 2000s. I've seen many electrolytic capacitors from the 1970s still working.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Always satisfying to see a good salvage job. Last Wednesday I checked quite a few ancient electrolytics from the 70's. They tested perfectly for both ESR and capacitance, but I'm wary to use them since they do not have any safety valves and they are quite huge when compared with modern equivalents. They are new old stock Phillips and an even older looking Frake ( German ). There was also one particularly large Philips one with 5 terminals. They are marked 1 through 5, but no clear indicator for polarity. Can't find any datasheet on it; any thoughts on those?
Like everything to day, they make products to only last a certain amount of time, so are used parts really viable as there is no idea how long they will last. I suspect with commercial equipment the components are built to a better quality but general household stuff is made from junk.
For general purpose stuff I buy from whichever is the best deal. For more esoteric stuff I have found the store called SUHMS is very reliable and good quality but I only found that by chance so there could be others similar or better
havnt watched the full video yet but protip: a small butane torch on the back of a board and a good smack on a table can remove alot of components fast and easily, just dont overheat things and it'll come out fine and with perfectly tinned leads even
Since i was fourteen i'll do the same til today . Many hours of gold digger feelings 😍and hot fingers🤣🤣🥰🥰. I miss the old time 😢 Thank you Richard 1 11👍
