Thank you, Alan! I had the same problem on a Ford Edge 2017. I hung out for 1 month at the greatest masters, repair services and forums, I changed the brake pads and motors, no result. Your video opened my eyes. I lay down under the car and pulled out the cable. One wire was broken and from time to time it made contact to wonder what was going on. I re-soldered the wire, the parking brake now works and in the passenger compartment is quiet - one can drive with pleasure.
I was like, "What it isnt the short loom?" this is intresting as it allways has bean it, here in Finland. Cladly here our Taxis are mostlikly Automaticks so drivers don't use Handbrakes and so they broke when they are off and free ;) I would say its the up and down motion on the wires that dos it thats why we replace both sides same time when this hapends. After replasing the wireloom just use the handbrake 3 times should clear the fault ;) Cheers mate nice to see im not only one that cars like to pull on the noses ;) :D
If this were to happen again, take a 9V battery and 2 pieces of wire. Unplug the connector and attach the 9v battery to the motor and it will operate the motor. If when you attach it, the brake doesn't release, then switch the polarity of the wires. This is how many people without expensive scan tools repair rear brakes with the EPB.
Unfortunately the plastic sheathing / tubing seems to be a water trap and causes this corrosion. I see this quite a bit on park brake and ABS looms on cars still under warranty (Focus, Ranger, Kuga, Mondeo) . Ford wiring harnesses are turning into the modern day Peugeot. Nice work, been watching your videos a while now
Exactly. He’ll probably try that next time - if there ever is a next time. But he can be forgiven into just wanting to get the car moved out of the way quick.
I know in the heat of the moment you do what you need to do but not everyone can afford all that expense like Alan did I love Alan videos but I was just putting it out there incase anyone might have trouble with electric handbrakes a 12v or cordless drill battery connected direct to motor or undo the two hex bolts and motor mechanism is removed then you could wind back the piston as a temporary get out of jail
Hi Alan, what about get the old loom plug and solder two pieces of wire on to the plug that goes to the calliper and a couple of croc clips, keep a 12v jelly battery on standby for the next time, disconnect the vehicle calliper plug, and then plug in the made up cable and connect the croc clips to the battery, doesn't matter which way round, if it doesn't release then swap the croc clips round, and also if you need to change rear pads then there's no need to use the diagnostic box to release the park brake 👍
Thats where load pro and power prove is become needed and helpful in this kind of problem.I enjoy your video mate.I know how it feels like when it hard to find the trouble because of this new technology.
Yep, rule 101 for all continuity checks is to measure from the last point in the circuit, in this case the caliper plug pins to the end point, being the ABS module. I also believe you can unbolt the PB actuator and manually unwind the caliper lock to get the PB off? If the RH actuator is fine, I would jave jumpered two wires across to the LH caliper plug to release that brake. Saves destroying parts.
I had this on a b6 Passat, handbrake jammed on driver side, so a little google and 3 T30 bolts and the motor came off the back and a T45 and wound the calliper out and then tada 🎉 all free. 😂😂
Hi Alan have missed these videos, done my friends rear brakes on a qashqai he had a problem with them sticking after removing the motor and manually turning the pistons back and forth it sorted out his issue.cars are becoming more electrically complicated than ever.
Electronic parking brakes are a solution to a problem that nobody asked. They add more expense and complexity for no benefit. If your battery goes flat you cannot take the handbrake off and push the car closer to another for a jump start - interesting if the car is parked in your garage. Sadly they appear to be almost universal now but given a choice, I'd have a traditional lever every time
Thank you Alan for your video about mk5. Since long time, I haven't seen one, I thought the mondeos stopped breaking or you just stopped fixing them :) Keep recording even small things (and showing how you get out things from the car) whenever you have time. I'm in the middle of fixing HPFP and replacing cambelt this weekend, I need to replace radiator as well (it is corroded at the bottom), so hope to find a video about that (how to get it out). This is first time for me to fix things like these in a car, but I was always interested about fixing my own car and you made me to start fixing more complicated things. Unfortunately, I notice something wrong with me - I'm getting addicted to your videos! :-) Keep recording, you're doing great job for people like me (amateur mechanics)!
I had something similar on a BMW when my headlight alignment went bonkers, had to strip and solder in new sections of wire to resolve it. When I split the wire I removed I had the same thing......blue corroded copper wire. I was never able to explain how it happened but it was clear moisture had gone in.
Just had this exact same issue with my 2016 galaxy,all the same symptoms and codes,managed to release the handbrake by removing the motor and winding it back manually with a E socket on the splines,replaced the motor first,then realised I had no power to it(doh)any how have now replaced both os & ns looms to not be stuck again £40 for the pair(won't mention the £90 motor 🙄) anyhow cheers Alan for another top video,cheers steve👍
What I’ve done before is take the motor off and put a multi star socket in it unwind it taking the handbrake off was a Audi Q5 but looks about the same kind of motor. Just in case you get another one lol 😂
Allen You are the man mate how you treaced that wire most guys would have gave up I have never seen a wire breal Iike that and in a loom this must be a one off a Freak but the best guy aroud found it you are the best nate love these videos Phil in stoke
So just a coincidence that I was following your video to change my rear pads and discs today on my mk5 and boy were the inner pads down to the metal! I also disconnected the cable to the motor as on the Mondeo facebook group there had been reports of the brake maintenance mode disengaging randomly and powering the calliper until it unwound it beyond its limits, nasty. I wanted to paint the calliper as well as they are so corroded but didn't get time so will need to go back and do that soon. Also need to do the fronts but the s***y ford made of cheese wheel nuts have swollen so have a set on order to replace them. Also rear discs didn't just fall off, very rusted on and got them off with a lump hammer which I'm surprised at for a 2016 with 42k on the clock, original discs maybe? One thing that would be really handy for the home bodger like myself is to show us how to jack up the front and rear of the mk5 with a trolley jack. I don't think I'd seen you show that before as you have your lifts .... everything would be so much easier with a lift. I fashioned an offset slotted jack pad to use the arrowed jacking points on the seam but that ended up getting squashed. So I then went with a flat jack pad and that bent the seam! I then used the supplied scissor jack with offset saddle and I get the impression most of the load is going on the floor immediately behind the seam and not on the seam itself. Also whoever designed the foldaway handle for jack which includes the 19" wrench for the wheel nuts and the jack itself is a genius. Finally and said with a bucketful of hindsight, knowing what the issue was now and as had been said below, you might have been able to just power the calliper motor directly to get it to disengage. I know its not a very common issue but I'd have knocked by a loom to do that from the failed one just in case you need it for future use. Also you could work which way round it needs to be +ve and -ve to engage and disengage using the old calliper on the bench (if it still worked). Although I suspect you've thrown them away ;-) I seem to remember there was a common issue on the early mk4s front abs sensor looms which would corrode like that in the same place. Someone suggested it was down to the machine that applied the felt tape having its cut off setting slightly out and nicking the insulation just enough.
Alan, Current heats the wire that heats the air inside the insulation, the warm air expands and pushes out. When the current stops the wire cools thus drawing damp atmosphere into the wire. This causes the copper to oxidate (copper oxide) that's the green crusties!. Just look at copper overhead cable or lightning conductors, even copper tube left in the damp goes green. It's unfortunate that the wiring in cars has as litte as possible copper in them so they oxidise away quickly
Is it me or has someone done some ‘whitening’ of the tyre wall writing on the offside front tyre wall? 😃. Or is it just a well rehearsed scuff ? 😜. Good to see some good old Mondeo content back!
hi Alan i have a ford mondeo mk5. which hangs on one rear brake. the disc brake quickly reaches 100 degrees Celsius. I have replaced brake discs and brake pads but still hangs a bit. the wheel is a bit slow to spin around need to take a little hart in order to spin it. suspects that the brake piston does not retract enough. Do you know what I can do to fix it? besides replacing the brake caliper it costs 470 USD seems like there is a little more brake dust from the rear brakes than there is on the front brakes
Re. faults repaired and ECU still saying there's a fault and you having to do a function test is typical of the can bus system, it's like when you change a blown bulb and it remains off with the new one, it will only work if you switch the light off and on and it will illuminate as it's reset the ECU, as an old school mechanic that took some sinking in, bloody modern electrics. Incidentally our roving sparky when he's checking lives he uses a halogen headlamp bulb as it loads the wiring with amps to check for high resistance wires. That abs ECU should've picked up the high resistance in that wire before it went full open circuit. On our police Volvo's as we didn't have a diagnostic tablet to wind the handbrake motor back to change the pads we just unbolted the motor and with a torx bit wound the calipers back then squeeze the pistons back, I wonder if that happens again you could remove the motor and wind the handbrake mechanism off and move the car. Thanks for sharing your fix and well done for admitting your mistake as we've all done it. Enjoying the live streams, it's a good catch up.
As I've said a few times these electronic parking brakes alongside key-less entry and start are the worst features of modern vehicles! You should do a video on a MK1 focus off your fleet, I'm sure they come in for all sorts of work!
thats one of the reasons i retired from the motor trade, friend of mine has a citroen picasso with auto box, electronicly controlled, wont change from drive to reverse and vica versa without a lot of swearing, did the obvious checks, found nothing so it,s off to a "specialist" int morning ....wishing them luck.
Decades ago I had a buddy who bought a rusty dusty POS Lincoln Mark3. We were chokin & smokin along down the road when he attempted to turn at a light. When it was safe he began his turn only the engine died. That's when we found out that the mark3 parking brakes were vacuum release. When the engine stops, the parking brakes go on. When the engine starts the parking brakes go off. There we were in the middle of a busy intersection engine dead & won't start parking brakes set & wont release so we can't push it. My poor friend had to hire a tow truck to haul it home. The tow cost more than he paid for the old car. !
The mk4 /smax/galaxy has the same issue on the loom going to the rear caliper and abs sensor...... In that corrugated spiral wrap , the corrugated stuff eats into the insulation and ends up shorting the abs cables together ( rain helps the process) only way to fix it is get under with a soldering iron and repair the cables as they are part of the main loom going into the car
I just wonder why on earth everything is digitalized and electronic? Is it just to make cars more expensive to own and maintain? Here in Finland roads are salted in winter so these electronic handbrake problems are very common. I just start thinking of buying a car from the 1970s or 1980s to do without these problems.
Got to be an auto electrician as well as a mechanic nowadays. I get controlling the emissions but why all the extra electronic stuff when good old fashioned mechanical systems work perfectly well. Technology for the sake of it.
I agree with this on many things, but I couldn't disagree more on electronic parking brakes. I once got in a co-workers car and found her handbrake was barely on! On the other hand, my dad tries to pull the handbrake lever clean out of the floor. Electronic parking brakes remove this variable. What's more I bet they're actually *more* reliable, and, even better, they FAIL SAFE. This is huge. If your handbrake cable snaps, your car could roll away. The electronic brakes tend to stick on, as seen in this video.
Late to the party on this one but Christ I've had some issues with a Mk5 recently. Coming home, battery kicked it. No Speedo, no power steering, no lights, nothing. Fucker died just as I got it into the drive and now I can't put the bastard handbrake on 😂
Hi Alan , I have a Mondeo mk4 2.0 tdci titanium x estate , beautiful car that has sentimental value as my Dad bought it me , had trouble with an injector which burnt hole in injector cover , just wondering if you had a cover off old engine you want to sell ? Thanks Mark
Ford make money as other manufacturers by fitting these complicated fandango’s and good excuse to increase price of their cars. No reason whatsoever to abandon the handbrake leaver method. My mk4 has an excellent handbrake.
Great video Alan, Just on observation though,couldn't you have tried putting power into the caliper from an external source,IE from a separate battery and two wires directly into the motor just to see if it would release? Rather than going captain caveman on its arse? The ABS wiring loom to the rear left wheel on my mk4 broke in a similar fashion,that took a bit of head scratching too🤣
When you're in the field on a breakdown you don't have time to do this and do that the priority is to expedite the car back to the depot if the fault is a new one to you and not obvious, yes it was extreme to break the caliper etc to get the motor moving but that is how Alan thinks I guess
That is one of the worst things a car manufacturers have done bring out an electronic handbrake they are crap and they fail and they are not worth buying with electronic handbrake
@@usuallyfixingtinkering what makes it worse is when the whole vehicle has too many electronic modules on Ford cars they had something in the system could create my key so you can buy another key to paire it with the car this isn't good when your car is stolen and Ford cars are very vulnerable two saves what might be even worse with modern cars is there are only three cylinder and not 4 what was wrong with the old fashioned cars they were better I hate electronics in cars
Mondeo mk5 it is a complete scrap. From 2 years I am unfortunately the owner of mondeo and every 3 months I have problem with this car. Lots of issues are exactly the same which I found on your channel. No more Ford never the worst car ever I had.
Idiot Ford why they replace the traditional manual hand brake compare to this crazy idea epb which is another investment to car owner. Manual hand brake long last and no problem even 200 yrs or more
fords are now shit and you need to invest in back probes and a calibrated meter your meter has not been calibrated only fit for the bin need a good fluke loving the videos but would not touch a ford now
