Guys.. how come this guy, Mr. CarsNToys does not have 1000,000 followers? Thank you for an amazing video, clear, short, and educational in a language that I can understand and follow. Your advise is priceless at the end of the video with "Relearning" process! Again, THANK YOU!
I have a JDM 2005 Honda Accord Euro 2.4 and my car threw a check engine light and VSA and triangle (!) symbol and also went into limp mode. I was driving on the highway and instantly panicked as I couldn't accelerate at all and pulled over to turn off the engine. Waited 5 mins and turned the ignition back on and the VSA and triangle (!) symbol disappeared but the check engine light still appeared. Luckily my car was able to drive the way it did before this incident occurred and I managed to reach home (30km highway driving). As soon as I got home I plugged in my OBD2 scanner and the diagnostics read P2135 code and I came across this video. My first suspicion was bad/dirty connectors since this happened the same day I took my family out for a road trip. It made sense that this could be related since I had to drive off road to enter into a campsite for our day hike (and it was extremely dusty too). After a while the check engine light disappeared on its own the very same day as I had been driving it often. I was relieved but when I plugged the scan tool again I saw the code still existed. I waited till the next day and decided to clear the code manually using my OBD2 scanner. Unfortunately, as soon as I stepped on my gas pedal, the same incident occurred but luckily I was just at a parking lot. I turned off engine and back on and it worked just fine again and eventually the engine light disappeared on its own again but still showing the code when I used my scan tool. I decided to buy CRC contact cleaner and disconnected my negative battery and unplugged the connectors to the APP and the TPS and sprayed it many times and used a Q tip as well. I let it air dry for at least 30 mins before reconnecting everything and made sure the electrical connectors were tightly fitted (a decent click sound heard). I test drove it around for 30 mins and then checked my scan tool and the code was gone. So far haven't come across any issues but that was the cheapest fix ever. Only needed a contact cleaner thankfully and not a replacement of APP or TPS.. Sorry for long message but just thought I could share my experience with p2135 code
If you are using a throttle body that doesn’t belong on your car, could you test and find which corresponding wires open the throttle body and make them match up in the harness to make it work? Or is there more to it
I changed out throttle body and gas pedal still getting p0122 and p0222. Starting to assume it’s the wiring but not very good with testing though how would I go about doing that. It has 6 wires 2008 ford Taurus
I replaced my throttle body and gas pedal assembly as well but I noticed that the wiring for the connector was loose so this video helped with confirming that’s probably my issue
The change in voltage shows that the potentiometer in the throttle body is working therefore it is sending a signal to the ECU. As far as the motor that controls the butterfly, it is easy to check too. Simply remove the intake hose so that you can actually see it, turn key ignition to the on position, (no need to start the engine) and press the accelerator pedal down or ask someone else to do it while you see, you should see it moving. If it doesn't move there is a problem with it. Also as it moves it should be according to the pedal movement and the electric motor should sound smooth too.
Im having issues while shifting my manual transmission my rpm’s drop all the way to 1k. I think its the idle air control valve but I think my car doesn’t have that
@@сергейкушнир-ц9ю I press the Accelerator and nothing happens. So I bought a Accelerator Pedal position sensor and it still did the same thing. So I tested the Throttle Body and everything seems good. Idk what it could be. The plug that goes to my (actuator )Throttle Body is pushing about 4.2 Volts. I'm just lost.
@@giantkilla_ I changed connector to pedal, changed map and unplugged sencor for the cooler. After those manipulation something was work. It's start to work good. But still have liths on dashboard
most fly "drive" by wire throttle bodys have at least 2 TP sensors and the ECM "computer" monitors both plus two more TPs on the gas pedal..if any of those 4 TPs are out of range the ECM will put the car in limp mode "no power" or very limited power. This keeps the throttle body from getting you killed should it malfunction and you can't control the speed of the engine!
If it's disconnected, moving the valve (carefully) is fine, you're just moving the same cog wheels as the electric motor. Don't push against resistance though.
I was thinking same out of experience I had to buy a new throttle body because I pushed it open! But I could've gotten throttle body cleaner into electronics too but ya was always told to have someone press the pedal instead. Tps motor I believe is supposed to move the butterfly not the other way around supposedly!? 🤔
