Curtis, you do some of the very best (if not the best) astronomy videos anywhere on the internet. Thank you for your excellent tutorials. Much appreciated!
That's high praise and I very much appreciate it although I won't let it go to my head. I do my best. The hardest part is figuring out how to reach more people who might be interested in my videos.
One of the best explanations I've watched so far, so thanks very much for that! I just bought a NexStar 8se and am planning to use it for EAA. I'll keep referring back your instructions as I get it set up.
Awesome demo and tutorial Curtis. I have an Alt-Az setup with the robust iOptron AZ Pro mount. But using it for mostly visual observations, star gazing, planets etc. use a 80mm ED refractor and a 152mm Rumak OTA. Have an entry level ZWO color camera that I would love to give AP a shot with. Your video is very helpful for beginners to get started.
What's your advice on the cheapest camera that's going to accomplish what you put in this video? Great video and exactly what I'm looking for, not really worrying too much about actual photo imaging as much as just being able to view the object, thank you
I think the ZWO ASI585MC at $399 is a best bet for a good low cost choice. It is a low read noise CMOS camera which ahs zero amp glow and a decent chip size at ~13mm diagonal. Here are affiliate links to this camera on two of my favorite astronomy vendor sites for your convenience High Point Scientific bit.ly/41yQpDD Agena Astro bit.ly/3BQxclX Good luck, and don't hesitate if you have further questions.
Really nice demo Curtis. Thanks! I've been doing guided EAA/photography using an ASIair pro and an android tablet with a 130 APO on an EQ6 mount. I use a one shot colour cooled camera and I'm just amazed at what can be seen from an inner city rooftop. For me the biggest thrill is watching the live stack develop and playing with the stretch. My face hurt with all the grinning I was doing while capturing M51. Its really cool to see that a modestly sized SCT on an AltAz will unlock all that fun too.👍
This is a fantastic video! I use a 6SE as well with a ASI385MC and it’s a brilliant arrangement for EAA. The Celestron starsense alignment system makes the initial alignment quite a bit easier. I know some get fancy with platesolving in SharpCap but I’ve never felt the need. ASIStudio does a decent job too. EAA is great for outreach too, you don’t need to share eyepieces in this post pandemic world. I don’t need anyone’s germs near my optics but they can actually see the Orion Nebula 😆 People don’t realize you don’t necessarily need an expensive equatorial mount and complex polar alignments to do EAA. Only required for dedicated astro photography. Software got smart enough to nullify field rotation with stacking.
Curtis, great video. I watched the one about 105mm spacers and learned alot! Thanks. Actually, I went and bought on spacers to give eaa a try. I haveobtained a ASI 358mc and going to try EAA in the next few days per your video. I subscribed and looking forward to watching more!
Glad I was able to help. If you have questions don't hesitate to ask. You might check out my web site for more EAA stuff as well californiaskys.com. And, if you use the links in my videos or on my web site to navigate to either HighPoint Scientific or Agena Astro you will be helping to support my channel. I just bought a Smart Telescope which I will use to make some more interesting videos on EAA and astrophotography in the near future.
I always appreciate more information, you show and tell more than many RU-vidrs do, very clear, now to get back to my much smaller 4 inch Celestron, even if it is small, still fun to search and find things in the heavens.
I have a 6se and a canon T3i DSLR. I added a .63 focal reducer after watching your excellent video. When using sharpcap pro, i do not see many stars in live view. I have focused it on a bright star and the bahtinov mask seems to indicate it is reasonably well focused. The stacking does not work as sharpcap says it doesn't see any stars. The plate solving doesn't work either. Either I have too many stars (probably noise) or too few. I have tried a variety of ISOs and capture times. Any ideas what I can do? I thought a DSLR would work reasonably well for EAA.
Sir, what ZWO camera were you using, and were you controlling your scope with SharpCap as well? Thanks! I understand having the camera running into the laptop allows the streaming, just wondered if SharpCap allows for control of scope/tracking.
I was using my ASI1600MC which is an older generation camera that is now discontinued. SharpCap Pro can connect to most ASCOM capable mounts but it may not be able to move the mount unless the mount supports ASCOM "MoveAxis" functionality. For instance, I believe it can move my Celestron CGE mount but cannot move my Software Bisque mount.
Very nicely done and informative. You use a shortened tripod to increase stability and note this makes viewing through an eyepiece or red dot finder uncomfortable, especially for the older person. I replaced the finder with a suitably aligned camcorder, so I can view the low powered video feed in real time for alignment purposes. If the camcorder has zoom, it makes it even easier. Of course the camcorder should have a flip-out adjustable LCD screen which you adjust so the alignment star is easily spotted no matter where the scope is pointing. The small aperture of the camcorder is actually an advantage especially if the sky is dark because confusing dimmer nonalignment stars are invisible.
Hi Curtis, another excellent video! Which of your cameras did you use in this demonstration? The 224MC? And using all the extensions to reach 105mm, can it fully clear the telescope to point to zenith? Does it impact the connections for auxiliary or wifi accessories?
ASI1600MC and yes it clears at the zenith but I had to push the C8 forward in the clamps. It is better to get the Nexstar Evolution for the 8". The SE mount is fine for the 6" but a stretch for the 8" The USB connection is on the side so no issue there. No WiFi accessory is used in this case.
@@astronomytipsreviewswithcu740 Thank you. I've read that the SE mount is a bit under dimensioned for the 8". Anyway, will the camera and spacers clear the zenith on 8SE as it does in the C6? (I'm not sure if your answer was specific to the 6")
@@marcelorsc It will if you push the SCT forward in the clamp. Not ideal, but works. Some people modify the mounting mechanism to make it more rigid when pushed forward.
I'm starting to do EAA and indeed I had a lot of confusion choosing EQ or AZ mount, for sure I want to have a 8 SCT for planetary but was not sure if I should go for a fastar or another optic (rasa, newtonian, ...) for deep sky. Now I understand that I don't really need to struggle with an EQ mount and I can just use a focal reducer to get nice results with an 8 SCT. The question I have Curtis is: which camera are you using in this video? I got an ASI 678 for planetary and I'd like to take another camera for deep sky but as I'm just starting I don't want to spend a lot of money, I'm searching for a convenient ZWO camera that allows me to have a decent FOV for deep sky with a city night seeing (just starting...want to stay at home and build some confidence before going out for darker skies ;)
Glad the video helped you decide on the type of mount. Just remember and Alt-Az mount is very convenient for EAA but not the right choice if you later decide to do traditional astrophotography. I recommend the Nexstar Evolution for the 8" as it has better gearing and will handle the weight better than the SE version of the mount. But, it is more expensive so if you cannot afford it the SE will work as I showed in the video. As for the camera please watch the video I made on what to look for in cameras which you can find here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oFueKEuELOc.html. I would also suggest you plan to add Hyperstar to get down to f/2 later when you have some additional funds. I also did a video called the Amazing Hyperstar. Take a look at that. As for a camera I suggest the ASI533MC color camera which will match well with the 8" SCT at f/6.3 using a focal reducer. However, since it is a cooled camera (cooling helps reduce background noise but is not imperative to have) it is expensive and ZWO doesn't offer a non-cooled version. As much as I like ZWO you can get the non-cooled version for about $200 less from Player one which they call Saturn-C SQR. And if you can, when you purchase your mount, scope, camera and other accessories please use my affiliate links below to Highpoint Scientific on the east coast or Agena Astro on the west coast. They are both excellent astronomy retailers and I use them all the time. You won't pay any extra and I will receive a small commission which supports more videos like this. I don't have an affiliation with Player One but I think they are a good camera source as well. Here are my links and let me know if you have any other questions. Agena Astro Link bit.ly/434LUSu HighPoint Scientific Link bit.ly/3YvqU4X
@@astronomytipsreviewswithcu740 I will definitely go for Nexstar Evolution! Still have some doubt if it wouldn'r worth to go for a 9.25 instead of a 8. I'm a little bit worried if the evolution can properly handle the 9.25 tube. Did you ever tried it and have some opinion on that? With regards to camera, can you please share from which exposure time the cooling start to be needed?
@@teb76 I have never tried the 9.25" on an Evo mount but I have seen folks comment that they think it is a little to much for the Evo. Like the 8" is a little much for the SE. I understand the interest in the 9.25" as that was the first scope I bought back in 2008 when I got back into the hobby. A really nice scope but I used it on an EQ mount. With respect to camera cooling it is primarily the temperature of the camera sensor that determines the dark current noise. Yes, the exposure time also plays a role as does the camera gain, but it mostly temperature which will either be the ambient temperature without cooling or the temperature of the sensor with cooling. Every 5-6 deg C of temperature increase doubles the noise. Now, having said that, if you are always using the camera in a light polluted location like my backyard, the noise from the light pollution will most likely dominate compared to the dark current noise. In that case, cooling will have much less impact than if you image from a dark sky location. You can help to decrease the light pollution with a broad band light pollution filter. It is always a tough call whether to spend the additional ~$200 on cooling or not.
Hi Curtis great video just what I was after, I have 2 questions though 1) my camera is a 385MC, Back Focus is quoted as 12.5 mm. so to get to the 105 with the 6.3 reducer I need to find 92.5 mm, I can find a 50 mm T2 adaptor and get 30 20 10 5 spacers, but I am going to end up either 2.5 over or under. because I can't find any spacers less than 5 mm. Would it be better to go over or under? Second question, have you used ASIAIR Plus for EAA and how does it compare to SharpCap. Heading to a Bortle 1 Dark Site next month and want to be ready.
Thanks. You could use the 50mm + 5mm and this Blue Fireball 37.5mm spacer bit.ly/48tFsrl (Link is an affiliate link) to get the correct spacing. The challenge with spacing is to find the minimum number of spacers to achieve the desired distance. I have tried ASI Live and other EAA software but still think that SharpCap is the best. Good luck!
So instead of using the camera to do three star alignment would it be okay to three-star align with a say 15 mm eyepiece, and then after you're done drop your train with the camera in to begin shooting? In other words is there an advantage to aligning using sharp cap and camera over visual. Thanks
Not really but why bother switching back and forth when you can do it with the camera. And, you don't have to get down on the ground to peer through the EP. But to each their own.
@@astronomytipsreviewswithcu740 yeah I went ahead and use the camera, it was tricky first time out but I made it work and got my alignment done, I use jupiter, Polaris and Saturn and it found in a line right away, I used my Safari Pro 6 to do it with, I was able to view planets, but when I went to andromeda, I couldn't see anything, and when I tried to do like live stacking it started to tell me that my alignment was off and like 300 frames did not take or something, so I definitely got a learning curve there, it was a orange bar going across the top that told me I had an alignment problem, if you got any advice there let me know, thank you I can't remember the exact error message but it was saying there were frames that were not being counted because alignment was off
I am wondering if I can have a combination of star hopping with an eyepiece and then when I find something interesting swapping out the eyepiece with a small guide scope camera that I have. This will probably destroy the focus. Can I refocus inside Sharp cap?
You will certainly need to refocus which you can do in Sharpcap or with a Bahtinov mask. I assume you mean to use a low mag EP to get a wide field of view before switching to the narrower field of view of the camera. I don't know anyone who does it that way but good luck.
Hi again Curtis. I have to say firstly your series of EAA vids are first class. Another qu: yesterday I almost purchased a used ASI289MC Pro to try to do exactly the above. Then I rewatched your back focus vid, got the willies and backed out. My ideal situation would be to use a 2” 40mm EP in a star diagonal to view (say) the Orion Nebula. Have a good look at the Triangulum and the grey cloud. Then, pull out the EP and replace it with the ASI289 that has a 1.25 nose and 2” adapter. Switch to my laptop and SharpCap, refocus looking at the screen, then live stack to see details. Rinse and repeat on another object (I really like start hopping atm but I expect GoTo will take over later). Is that feasible? I looked at the spacers needed to get the right back focus in your other vid and now need to re-watch and better understand the measurements. Really appreciate your channel. Exactly the right level for me.
Really looking forward to trying this out. Thank you very much for sharing this knowledge! I enjoy just looking through my eyepiece, but this will help my four year old daughter to observe with me more.
@astronomytipsreviewswithcu740 thanks. I'll be watching this several times, and I'll have to obtain some equipment. I don't have a laptop for instance. Is there a laptop that you can recommend? EAA is really the only thing I plan on using it for. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
The chip inside the camera needs to be 105mm back from the focal reducer. If you are not using a reducer the camera can be placed right at the back of the SCT. Hope that is clear. If not watch my video on "EAA Backfocus Solutions at Zenith on SE, Evolution or CPC Mounts"
Thanks! I'll watch it again and take notes! I'm thinking of a Baader flip mirror for EP & cam. Think that might work? Your channel is really the best for EAA. Got me interested now I'm hooked on the concept.@@astronomytipsreviewswithcu740
I have a load of gear for my NexStar 8SE, including an Advanced GT GEM mount, SkyPortal Wi-Fi dongle, StarSense alignment scope, an SBIG ST-402 cooled monochrome CCD with colour wheel, and a ZWO AS120MM CCD as an off-axis guide scope. Amateur astronomy has come on in leaps and bounds since I started the hobby with a pair of binoculars at age 7
WOW! That was wonderful Curtis! I am dabbling with my first ZWO camera - which is the 385 - with the Celestron C8 on an Orion EQ-5 mount. I bought the mount used and the previous owner lost the Orion controller - so I'm using the Orion Synscan wifi tablet application. Unfortunately - the 3 star alignment requires I know where a star is before I can select the 3 stars and I have to use skysafari to help me see where those stars are in the sky. I also only have a Telrad for the SCT and that doesn't bring me close enough to an object to center it with the camera. So I'm having to do the 3 star alignment with an eyepiece and then switch over to the camera. I love the simplicity of the alignment program you have!! Thank you so much for doing these videos!!!
That was groovy! I gotta try this. I'm so new to astronomy though. However. This looks like instant gratification. I have to get a reducer for my 8" Meade. Can I ask a question? Thx. What reducer would you use with an ETX 125 or a 90? Like the guy below me said, Best explanation I've seen so far.. really. Thank you, Curtis. You're gonna be seeing me around.
The ETX scopes are not well suited to EAA as they are very long focal length telescopes. Your best bet is the 8" Meade which I assume is an SCT. Then you can use the Celestron 6.3X focal reducer or even a generic 5X reducer if you are not looking for high image quality.
Yes. It's an 8" ACF. I am currently viewing your 6 Essential Tools for EAA (part1) and I see I need a different focal reducer. @@astronomytipsreviewswithcu740
A really good Primer! for a guy that needed some splainin' of the nitty gritty. Of course you don't polar align an alt/az technically (!!) and you did just plate solve without saying exactly that!! Cool. Thanks Curtis - I have an Edge8 on it's AVX and my own Wayne Parker SkyShed ROR observatory finally built, with one of those new Svbony SV405CC (clone of ASI294) coming soon... Now I will have some tiny idea of how to begin to put it together and use it!
Thank you for this. It was an excellent explanation. I am still waiting for my SCT to come in. In the mean time, can you tell me what kind of cable I will need to connect my laptop to the mount?
The mount itself does not require much power but the answer depends upon how long you want to run. Also, if you have other equipment that you want to run on the Jackery like a camera, dew heater, mini-pc, etc. the answer would be different. For just the Nexstar itself you can get away with 160 model (amzn.to/3HYAlnb) with 167Wh hours of capacity which will likely power the mount for two full nights - I'm estimating 6W or less power over 10 hours each night. This would also power your camera and a dew heater for about 10 hours. If you want to go for multiple nights you can move up to the 300 (amzn.to/3NW934F ) or 500 (amzn.to/3NW4t6A) models. For just the mount for a few hours you could use a TalentCell battery amzn.to/42oaZHv.
Don't forget to use my Amazon affiliate link (amzn.to/3NW934F ) to make your purchase. This will help support my channel with a small commission without any extra cost to you. If you want to order directly from Jackery here is my affiliate link that you can use www.jackery.com/?aff=196
Nico - I used a Celestron 0.63X reducer attached directly to the back of the telescope and then 2 different slip fit adapters. Here are some links. If you look below the video where it says "Show More" you will find all the links. Good luck! Celestron f/6.3 focal reducer amzn.to/3uAOdO0 or OPT bit.ly/3xnb69t SCT Slip Fit Optical Path Adapter bit.ly/3M1SX58
Great explanation looking to get into eaa have same setup except havent decided/purchased camera yet are there any alternatives that will give similar results or maybe a dslr alternative for compactness less wires no laptop etc needed as the camera is around £1400 and have just spend 3k on scope and eyepieces and trying to budget. have spoke to 2 shops and dont even know what EAA is never heard of terminology 🙄any info greatly appreciated thanks in advance
Take a look at my web site. I have a whole series of Blogs on different aspects of Electronically Assisted Astronomy which can help to explain all the main aspects of it and what equipment is needed. Check it out here and just scroll down to the bottom and read each entry from the bottom to the top in time order www.californiaskys.com/blog/category/eaa-for-beginners Best of luck!
@@astronomytipsreviewswithcu740 have read all of it previously still undecided zwo 183 seems reasonable have you had any experience with it or thoughts?
Curtis, thanks a load for this video, as I am VERY new. I also have a C6 with the 6.3 focal reducer. My camera (still on backorder) will be ASI585MC listed as offering back focus of 17.5mm with OEM parts in the box. So ... 105mm (the figure you quoted, I believe) minus 17.5 is 87.5mm of extension tube I need to find, yes? I want 1.25" extension tubes, right? Please help this Lost Boy.
The 585 does have a backfocus of 17.5mm when you measure from the front of the 11mm adapter which ZWO includes. It is 6.5mm with the 11mm adapter removed. I point this out since some folks may use extensions where they do not need the 11mm adapter. What I show in the video is the case where I use the 11mm adapter. Now, 105 - 17.5 = 87.5 as you correctly say. So, yes, in your case you would need to add 87.5mm of extension tubing. There are many different ways to do this, but the two important points are: 1. The threads on the end that connect to the 6.3X focal reducer have to have the SCT female threads (2", 24TPI) to mate with the focal reducer. 2. The threads on the end that connect to the camera's 11mm adapter have to be M42 x 0.75 threads. You can use a Celestron SCT T-Adapter to connect to the back of the 6.3X reducer which will give 50mm of additional spacing and will have M42 x 0.75 male threads on the camera side. Then you need an additional 37.5mm of spacing which you can get from a combination of adapter rings. Here is a link to the T-Adapter from High Point Scientific bit.ly/3upIHNC And here is a link to some spacers bit.ly/3XUBbHW. It is just a matter of finding the right combination of spacers (M42 threads on both sides) to get close to the 37.5mm additional spacing that you need. Looking over the adapter options I think the best bet is to get the Celestron M42 spacer kit and use the 30mm and 7.5mm adapters together to get the additional 37.5mm you need. So, to recap: Celstron T-Adapter (50mm) + Celestron 30mm & 7.5mm M42 Adapters + ZWO 11 mm + Camera 6.5mm = 105mm Good luck
@@astronomytipsreviewswithcu740 Thank you for a great video. This is what I was looking for. And thank you also for clearing up the backfocus thingie. I'm a newbie as well and this helped me out so much!
@@bobpepitone1849 Glad to be of help. If you can, please use my links for your astronomy purchases so I can do more videos like this one to help you and others even more.
All right I went for it! I went with the 8-inch evolution, the ZWO 178 camera which is a little bit cheaper than the one you told me to get but due to funds I had to be a little bit more frugal and I got the focal reducer 6.3 I may need some help on spacers so any advice on that much appreciated on what you think I will need, I'll be downloading sharpcap soon, to get ready for delivery which is supposed to be in the next week or two to have everything
Congratulations! The 8" Evo is an excellent choice for an Alt-Az setup. I fully understand limited budgets. Since the 178 has a 9mm diagonal be prepared to have to search around for you targets since the FOV will be small. That is where the focal reducer will help along with a good 3 star alignment. This video I just posted will tell you exactly what you need to know for back spacing including links to the exact parts you will need. Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions.
@astronomytipsreviewswithcu740 okay I watched that video! Wow that covers a lot, and some extra money too! With the straight through Do you think there's any way for me to avoid having to get the longer rail on the evolution with the camera I got. I'm trying to avoid any alterations of the tube assembly
Yes, it took me many, many days of research, trial and error , etc. and I wanted to be complete. I do not believe that it is possible. You don''t have to alter the tube assembly, just screw the rail extension onto the existing rail with 2 screws. With the Evo mount I think you can slide the OTA just enough forward to clear the base with the straight through approach and still be very stable.
@@astronomytipsreviewswithcu740 okay that sounds good! Just try to save 30 bucks LOL but thanks for doing all this research man made life simpler for a lot of us have a great weekend
@astronomytipsreviewswithcu740 but you think what you put in your video for the straight through is the spacing I should use for the 178 correct? I haven't received my camera yet but I don't see that female to female spacer in the description but I think you sent a link with that female the female I can get. Thanks
The back focus distance is measure from the base of the threads which is what I am pointing to in the video. I believe that is the same as what you are calling the rear flange. I can see how my wording in the video can be confusing as I went back to watch it again. But we are both saying the same thing. The base of the threads or the flange as you call it, it located at the center of the lens array inside the reducer. That is how the back focus is actually defined. Thanks for pointing out the potential confusion so we can get it straight for future viewers.
Cool video and eaa is cool as hell but for me it takes the fun out of it. I bought my c8 to try different eyepieces,filters ect to get best views i can. I can go online and see incredible pics what ever i want.
I don't know what type of rail you have on your C8. If it is the standard Celestron dovetail then no. But the rail can be changed. Also, if you are just starting out I suggest you choose a digital camera rather than one of these much older technology analog cameras. You can see several videos of mine giving more information on how to select one of the CMOS digital cameras. Depending upon which one you choose it may even cost less than the analog camera
You definitely got me interested in EAA! Best YT out there - thanks! Can I ask a prolly silly question? My old C8 on clock driven forks manages keep images very still. Would it be possible to get started by just buying a better camera and using my existing mount to play with SharpCap and see if EAA is for me? I already have the focal reducer.
Thanks so much for this beginner video, it's perfect timing for me. I have an Evolution 6", ZWO183CM camera, ZWO EAF and the ZWO ASIAIR Plus. I'll be powering with a Bioenno 15AH LIFE battery. I'm about to see first light with this gear, using a tablet with ASIAIR WiFi and software. I liked that you cut to your 11" Hyperstar to indicate your involvement level, then back to more basic equipment. I think you were smart to mention, but not incorporate, darks, flats and bias frames to keep things simple. This is something I hope to build toward. Great job!
Shannon - I am using an uncooled ASI1600MC color camera which has been discontinued. You can only buy the 1600 in the cooled camera configuration which, as you say, is a lot bigger. The cooled cameras will hit the base of the mount when pointed close to zenith unless you use a diagonal to connect the camera to the scope. Hope this clarifies things for you.
Would like to see you use my camera without hitting the mount. Use a dedicated astro cooled camera and focal reducer and back focus adjusted and no way can i use an alt alz mount. I use and EQ Mount, works gar better without camera hitting the mount. Sound like your not using a reducer and a planetry camera, which works fine, but a cooled camera works miles better. I used to use an alt alz mount but graduated to the Skywatcher EQ6 PRO R. Far superior than any alt alz mount. But the good thing eoyh EAA is it can be done with smple equipment, dont need expensive gear.
Again, you obviously have not watched much of the video as the point of this video is how to use an Alt-Az mount instead of a EQ mount for EAA. For EAA Alt-Az mounts make the process of setting up a lot easier for many people and allow for less expensive equipment. EAA is not astrophotography which requires an EQ mount. Indeed, I use a reducer in this video and make it very clear that one cannot use a cooled camera to avoid interfering with the mount. I use an ASI1600MC camera which is a 16MPixel deep sky camera. Once again, either watch the video or move on. I won't respond to any more of your inputs as you clearly do not understand the purpose of this video.
Your posts can discourage people from trying out EAA with the equipment they have. Curtis has presented a great example of using an Alt/Az mount and detailed their limitations very clearly. I have been using my Alt/Az mount for EAA for a while now and have much success due to this video. I set my visual limitations at 60 degrees because I can't go above that without hitting the mount. That is fine for me because I am able to see so much more from my light polluted backyard than I could with an eyepiece. I mean just look at what Curtis is viewing in the video with the clearly explained limitations of using alt/az mounts =)
Man I hate red dot finders. I put a cheap 6x30 finder scope on my two small scopes, one a 60mm H-a solar with a white filter on the finder scope then put it on my Twilight One. I then used a 8x50 raci on my two larger scopes. I do manual visual, but setup my CG-4 with a tracking motor. I've borrowed a couple of SE-8s and a VX from my astro club. The VX was for my 150mm C6-N with refigured primary to .98 Strehl and 1/12th wave and a JMI 2" focuser to take some pictures of Saturn and Jupiter. Man, Celestron's 1star, 2 star, 3 star alignment process is a pain, if they don't set the first time you have to start from scratch. I swear I've been there for half an hour screwing with it over and over, only the VX went through the first time. I'm buying an iOptron AZ Pro with its own GPS and dual scope ability after going with a friend and watching his align itself. Put my C6-N on one side and my Explore Scientific 102mm Carbon fiber triplet on the other. Only hassle was aligning the two scopes in synch with each other, took about 5 minutes with a 5 miles away cell-tower dish on a big hill. That mount was dead on with tracking.
One hint for alignment is to finish centering the star using the up and right slew arrows so that backlash is not confounding the alignment. That will certainly help to avoid some mis-alignments.
@@astronomytipsreviewswithcu740 I saw that in the instructions and finished slew that way. Once it said the stars were not far enough apart. I thought Polaris to Rigel to Denebola was pretty far apart. It didn't think so, I used Polaris and Rigel then Procyon and it worked. lol Never had an issue with the EQ mounts by Celestron on alignment, but with the AZs I did. I've been doing it manually for some two years now, but I figure I'll try some photography, which I've done with my CG-4 and tracking, but it needs a polar scope for a precise alignment to stay on track for more than 3 minutes. Got some good pics of C80, the Omega Centauri, just needs a couple of 30 second exposures and a Moon and Sky Glow filter.
Downside is that it's a fork mount so your stuck with that scope on that mount. So if you want to get another telescope you also have to buy a new mount.
@@astronomytipsreviewswithcu740 Thank you for your reply Curt. As a gift, I received a ZWO ASI 178 MC. This has a 170 degree astro camera. Also I have the ZWO ASI AIR Plus. This will be used for, "EVENING" aerial photos/videos at FIVE to FIFTEEN thousand feet. This will not be used for planetary systems or stars. I would like to connect this to my 24" Apple iMAC M1 5K all in one by Wi-Fi only. With the ZWO ASI Air Plus Wi-Fi, I should be able to do this correct? My other question is camera lens over telescope. They have an adapter for Cannon lens for the ZWO. In your experience on a stationary and moving vehical what would be better to use? Cannon has built in image stability and auto focus on there best lens with excellent low light capability. I do not know anything about telescopes. This whole process is new to me and I hope you will take the time to assist me. You can call me, send an email or use your video reply here. Thanks, Will
@@williamkacensky4796 If I understand correctly you want to mount everything on a drone. I don't think the ASIAIR Pro will have a reliable connection at 1500ft. You should check the ZWO forum on that on specifics in connecting to your Macbook Pro. I am certain you can connect the ASIAIR Pro to a Macbook but I don't know the details since I don't use Macs. Also, you must have a very large and powerful drone if you are expecting to mount the camera, lens and ASIAIR Pro onto it. As for the Cannon lens, I think the image stabilization only works when connected to the Cannon camera.
@@astronomytipsreviewswithcu740 Hi Curt, not sure where the drone idea comes from but no, this application is ground based on a tripod. In going back to my original question there is an adapter to mount the Cannon lens to the ZWO camera. Good point, I will check with Cannon on the image stabilization with this set up. Now that you know the application what do you think, if a Cannon lens does work? Lens or telescope, if telescope what type, kind, and setup? Thanks.
@@williamkacensky4796 This sentence in your original note is what made me think you were using a drone "This will be used for, "EVENING" aerial photos/videos at FIVE to FIFTEEN thousand feet. " Aerial photos at 5 to 15 thousand feet sounds like a drone to me. But regardless. Lenses are typical short focal length which are great for wide fields. If you want to see detail on things like galaxies and planetary nebulae you will need a longer focal length which likely means a telescope. Both work, its just a matter of what kind of objects you can view with either method. Good luck!
I have the CG5 which is Celestron's precursor to the AVX. I agree the AVX is a good choice for a low cost EQ mount for the smaller SCTs (5" to 9.25"). The Nexstar 8SE is $1700. The 8" Evolution with a better Alt-Az mount is $2200. The 8" AVX is $2300 so only slightly more than the Evolution package and $500 more than the Nexstar package. People can decide which price point works for them. Also, some prefer the ease of use of an Alt-Az mount compared to an EQ mount. Obviously if astrophotography is desired an EQ mount is essential. But for just EAA an Alt-Az works just fine.
@@astronomytipsreviewswithcu740 I got my for 1.8K including AVX, c8, dedicated Celestron case for c8 and feather touch focuser. AVX has 1.5 min unguided capabilities. It takes much more fainter objects than Az set up, which my club members use. By the way, where is your location. Looks great dark site.
@@anata5127 I'm not knocking an EQ mount like the AVX. It definitely has its advantages as you say. But some people like the simplicity of an Alt-Az mount and my point is that with Live Stacking in free software like SharpCap, Alt-Az mounts work great for EAA.
The design of the Celestron SCT mount is very poor for EAA as its on one arm and the scope on the inside of the arm. The height you can reach is limited. And the further out the camera sticks out the more restricted you are till the camera hits the mount. The design was never designed for anything but visual astronomy. The only way around this, is a wedge, or an EQ mount. I believe the new SKYWATCHER AZ EQ6 mount is a better design for EAA astronomy. With the standard Celestron SCT on Alz mount, with camera the camera will limit how high you can go before it hits the mount
Dennis, You are quite right that the SE mount that comes with the 6SE and 8SE has its limitations. First, the single arm limits the total weight that it can hold steady. And, one has to be careful for the clearance of the camera when pointing at or near the zenith. However, many people get excellent results with this setup. I have the 6SE which is the 6" SCT and it is perfectly fine for that scope. I do think the 8" SCT on the SE mount is pushing it, especially if you have to push the scope forward for the camera to clear at the zenith. But you can see from my short video that even the 8" SCT on the SE mount pushed far forward gives perfectly fine EAA results. The Evolution mount provides much more stability for the 8" but also comes with a higher price tag. EQ mounts are great for EAA and also allow one to do astrophotography. However, SCTs on Alt-Az mounts are quite popular and folks are very satisfied with their results. The mount you mention is a good one but consider that the mount alone costs $2K. The 8SE cost $1.6K and includes both the mount and the 8" SCT. The 6SE is only $1.1K For those not interested in astrophotography, just EAA, these SCTs on the SE and Evolution mounts are a good way to go.
@@astronomytipsreviewswithcu740 for me I got a Skywatcher eq6 pro, due to the limitations of the celestron mount design. Ioptron did it right with the cube series. If only Celestron had the ability to attach scope on the outside of the mount would have solved it
Your vids are so useful you ought to have some way for peeps to send you a few $s - can you set up a donation button or Patreon or something. I feel guilty getting all your info for free. I’ll certainly use your affiliate links but don’t buy things too often (yet!) Just a thought.
The camera I used in that video is an ASI1600MC uncooled color camera which originally cost $699 but is no longer available new. You may be thinking of the cooled version of this camera , ASI1600MC Pro, which is also discontinued but cost $999 when it was available. You can find this one used for about $700. I am not sure if you have a point you are trying to make but for anyone wanting to know which of the currently available cameras are a good choice for EAA they can check out my video on cameras ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oFueKEuELOc.html
@@astronomytipsreviewswithcu740 Not a point at all my friend, just saying it was expensive. But you are right, the one you just mention for 999$ is the one I thought you have. And they do still have it, I couldn’t find the 700$ tho. Any suggestions on any other solid one for cheaper?
Suggestion, use the display histogram to balance the colors. Make red green and blue all match. I streamed a not so great session a few days ago but about 3 minutes in you can see how I balance color. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NaUxWJfo-Sw.html
Good point. That would have been helpful, especially if I could have eliminated the red screen so we could see the true colors. But, again, I didn't want to get into a Sharpcap tutorial.
