*UPDATE:* After the battery running for a few more days with no problem, it left us abandoned at a gas station! Fortunately someone gave me a boost. So to diagnose the problem, while the car was running I measured the voltage and it was 13.5V, but as soon as I turned the car off, it dropped to 9V. So the alternator was providing juice to charge the battery, but the battery didn't hold it. I also put an ammeter and measured car's off current. When I locked the car, the current was at 110mA and after one minute dropped to 3.5mA. So there is no leakage current either. I brought the battery home and charged it with my supply. The voltage would rise to 14.5V with a steady 2A, and then would drop to 11V when I disconnect it. In conclusion, I am sad to announce that the battery has passed away. It is not a serviceable battery either, so I shall take it to the dumpster where it belongs! (I mean I will recycle it)
ElectroBOOM can you make a video on how to mod a big brick of a plug to a regular plug and relocate the brick lower on the wire? The brick covers all the other plugs on the outlets
OMG dude, FULL WAVE RECTIFIER, 120 Volts from the wall!! Bring that baby back from the dead! I do it all the time. ( Just remember to put a 40 watt bulb on the AC side ! Yeah, or leave it out for laughs to start... )
Sounds like one of the cells in the battery shorted internally, or the water level in a few cells is super low and needs a top off of distilled water. If your car were a manual transmission, you could give it a rolling start using the momentum of the car with a quick pulse of the clutch to couple and uncouple the momentum of the transmission with the body. With 9V, that's more than enough to start combustion and run the alternator too. Too bad you can't give automatics a rolling start without completely destroying them lol. It's too bad starter motors require such ridiculous currents to run. If starter motors gradually built up kinetic energy in a flywheel and then dumped it all at once into the transmission, it would be more reliable to start at lower voltages considering the low instantaneous power available in dead car batteries.
Bro every dad is like that,they will try diy which actually... Isnt that bad considering 1.You have nothing to lose 2. If it breaks you disassemble it and see how it works Did that with an old old radio It was fun
Deal with this often as a pro technician. Anything over 20mA is abnormal. You're going to want to find your draw, and use a more accurate meter than a janky amp-clamp.
That's true, but then again I can't trust a clamp ammeter with accurate low current measurements. Should do a proper measurement... next time the battery fails!
I would also wonder when he took that reading too. If it was right after he shut off the car, the computer is still doing some work for a time afterwards. For instance, a timer for automatically locking the car and turning on the alarm. Heck, my car still lets me open and close windows for a short amount of time after shutting the car off, and stops letting me either after I open the door or after a certain time has elapsed.
Not necessarily - it depends on what your car is doing while _idle_. Mine draws ~120mA to cover things like keyless entry and mobile connectivity (incl. remote heating activation and such fanciness). Given that the battery holds 80Ah that's not really an issue. Plus, it's smart enough to kill the mobile connectivity and pretty much anything extra apart from the basic on-board computer control (you even have to use a physical key to unlock at that stage) once it estimates less than 20% charge - then the draw drops to mere 14mA, according to the service manual.
Just open the fusebox and (with everything off) measure the current through each fuse... Or if your fusebox doesn't allow that, take out each fuse in turn and record the total current from the battery. And .2, .1 amps is *plenty* to drain your battery (not that the meter is accurate at those current levels). I removed the (broken) radio from an old car and that stopped it from discharging the battery when not in use. I measured the draw at 50mA.
I myself, do have a battery that was discharged to absolute 0v and was able to recharge it. It still works and hold a quasi perfect charge over a long period of time. So it's not impossible. But it's pretty rare. I only saw this on one battery. The others i tried to save had, at least, one cell totally shot.
I, in my infinite dumbassery, charged a battery fully backwards, then was able to fully reverse it again somehow. It was really dead when I reverse charged it, but somehow it made the journey from 10V or whatever it was at, to -13V and back to 13V and still seems to be working.
@@trapbuilder2283/videos Yeah, most dome lights turn on when doors are opened, whether the vehicle is on/running or not. Most of my drained batteries have been from doors not closed completely which leaves the dome light on overnight.
voltio234 the video was up on his patreon so people can see it there first he must've paid for his patreon and commented on it then that comment showed up here saying 2 days ago
I remember having car battery diagnostics runned at car workshop when broken radio soaked most of charge frpm it. Accordin to test not much damage has been done. You can also check it.
Actually, yes you will need to replace that battery. You've already sulfated the plates and knocked a crapload of lead off the plates by jump starting the battery so many times and using the 90A alternator to recharge that battery. As a diesel technician, I can personally assure you, that your battery needs to be replaced if it won't hold a charge after not being charged for several days. We have to change all four 950cca group 31 batteries within the first 2 years of truck operation due to all of the constant on/off cycles of the engine and use of power inverters. A far cry from the 5 years you'd typically get from a standard lead acid battery in a consumer passenger vehicle.
Batojiri1 I was going to post something just like this! The sponge lead is toast, and the cells aren't going to hold a charge... His alternator is next
I had this exact same scenario: battery was on its way out, having done like 9 years of service, died one morning, I managed to start it by pushing it pretty fast then quickly hopping in and letting the clutch up with 2nd gear engaged, drove to my destination and after like an hour the car still managed to start on its own, but the next day it was obviously dead again, so a new battery is a must in your case too :))
9 years is a good long life for a lead acid battery. Congratulations. I suspect that adding super capacitors to an existing battery will improve the life of the battery as long as the battery isn't abused, like being drained dead. Using the cap+battery can certainly improve the cold cranking amps delivered to the starter.
bro instead of wasting time you should just take the car battery to your lab bench power supply and charge it,put it back in and start the car to check everything is fine and just relax
(Edit: looks like you know some of this 😊) Tips: 1) Avoid sulfating your battery by starting the car once every three months, or connecting a maintainer charger to it. Saves motorcyclists from buying a new battery every year. 2) check with an ammeter if any current is being drawn while the car is off. There are videos on what milliamperage is acceptable. Southwire has a clamp DC ammeter to give an approximation if you’re concerned a large amperage is being drawn. 3) test your battery with a carbon pile load tester, burn don’t leave it connected too long, and don’t buy the Chinese shunt (literally) with the “cooling fan”. The battery may need replacement, 4) You can buy a jump box to do some of that job for you on smaller vehicles 😊.
What a good time to review charger/desulfators like the Battery Mindr brand. They seem to work...sometimes. It revived one old battery of three I tested to 'like new' performance (charges to 13.6VDC, can deliver 460 cranking amps several times, holds the charge at low temperature, etc).
I know you intentionally get yourself shocked for comedic effect, but do NOT spark alligator clips near a car battery that has been charging. My father used to spark them to test if the battery had charged, until the escaped hydrogen from the battery charging blew up in his face and he had battery acid flushed from his eyes at the hospital. I know you don't mind being electricuted, but do you want battery acid in your eyes?
Well, this particular incident happened aver 15 years ago and most probably used the older batteries that you could yourself add distilled water to. While new batteries are sealed and shouldn't release hydrogen, I would still not spark near a battery, especially if it reads 0V, as that might mean that it "might have a problem"
Upon further reading I found that the wikipedia page for Lead-acid battery has a section called "risk of explosion" where it states that "Excessive charging causes electrolysis, emitting hydrogen and oxygen". Excessive charging might not be possible with the newer chargers, but my father has always used an old transformer charger that keeps the voltage at 14V. However, if I remember correctly, the new modern charger I bought a couple of years ago still recommended charging in a well ventilated area.
You'd have to be charging the battery for a while to worry about that. He was charging it **just** enough to jump it so I doubt there'd be much hydrogen there. The 15 minutes he ran the car to charge it would be a little more dangerous time to be making sparks but probably fine given the radiator fan is running, dissipating the hydrogen. A real car charger being run for 20-30 minutes would be cause for concern in creating sparks around a battery especially if no fan is running to prevent the hydrogen from collecting. Most lead-acid car batteries are still not sealed, the sealed ones cost a lot more. Like if it's an AGM battery you wouldn't worry about it since that's sealed but it'll run you around 130 bucks at the cheapest when I can get a standard car battery at the cheapest for about 50 bucks with a core trade around 65 without a core to trade. AGM are generally worth the money since they last longer though and they're a little more physically robust than lead-acid and you don't have to worry about electrolyte levels (Very few people check the levels so they die faster than they ought to).
Electroboom you can also push the car as well and then try and start it from another person inside that will always start the car. That’s what my dad used to do. it works on manual cars, so if you have a manual car, then your good if you have an automatic, then you have to replace the battery or do your thingy
I use a car battery to run 12v lights in my garage, the battery isn't suitable for a car, but its great to use for lights in the garage, once its dead I charge it again, the battery seems to deplete very fast in the car, but using some pretty decent LED's (90 of them in total) being a lighter load I get around 28 hours of light. I only have to charge the battery maybe 2/3 times a year since my garage is a little workshop that gets used around once a month.
the car's alternator charges the battery when the engine is running so it doesn't discharge while running, because it needs it for the alternator, car computer. windsheild wipers .etc
For me the best part of DC is the simplicity of calculations, and electronics would be a lot harder (if possible) to make with AC, but you need AC to run a transformer with helps you afford the electricity in your socket, and lets you run devices that require different voltages on one common voltage.
I think most cars will cut off the power of accessories after set of time if there is no ignition or activity (opening/closing the doors, windows..). My merc does it after 30min so even if I forget interior light or something else it will shut it down to preserve the battery.
I used to have one of those compact pocket-sized lithium batteries that were made as jump starters, super impressive little things, I highly recommend, I bought it as it had a USB port and could charge my phone several times from flat before needing recharge. Jump started 2.2L Boxer vans a few times before needing a restart.
@@theaviator1152 watching again, he fiddled with the lights before charging the battery, I think thats when the switch was turned to the on position since he never had a problem with that before.
or maybe his daughter or wife left it on, since those lights turn on and off automatically he probably thought it was normal, walked away, and didnt know untill after the battery died.
@@komentierer yes it is. Learn something about automotive batteries and systems. 12.6 V DC is fully charged. Around 11.9 V DC is discharged and not capable of starting a car
@@AgaetiAlex Automotive Mechatronic for System- and High Voltage Technology here. 12v is the nominal voltage, as long as the manufacturer chose the correct battery, you will be able to start even around 11,2v.
Solar Grid-Tie Inverters Shutdown when the grid is down, by using AC-coupling , we provide a pure sine-wave to the Grid-Tie Inverter to make it understand is grid is up using a normal Backup-Home UPS and power the critical loads using the Grid-Tie inverter, if the GT inverter is producing 1000w and the critical Loads are using 300W, where will the excess 700W go?
i don't know if u read this, but u need at least 11V to start the car, but if u have 11V and 50 amp, the starter don't get enough Power to turn the Engine. thats why are the Cabels are much thicker then yours. But the idea with the capacitor is quiet smart, a Booster (we call it so, it is just a portable device to jump start the car) is built similar but with mutch more capacitors to get much more amp, i think u could built it, for me it is to dangerous.
Bad battery cells inside either dried up or have and short causing a parasitic draw in the battery itself. And will causes extra strain on alternator that will cause it to burn out
Did you check the levels, top the cells off with distilled water and charge the car battery again. But it’s time to replace it soon. And buy some LED lights for your interior lights. Maybe next time it will survive a couple days with the light on.
This car has a maintenance free battery. There is no way to add water, they are un-openable. Cars haven't come with maintenance batteries for a long time.
Hey also being that you like to play with electricity I would recommend it when you change your finally battery you put a deep cycle in there. The best thing about a deep cycle is if you leave it on you usually have more chance to be able to start the car than you would with a regular battery, also it gives you two more terminals to hook up to on the car battery so if you want to run an inverter or something you can. Final note deep Cycles are usually a lot cheaper than regular batteries for some reason and come in pretty normal sizes.
bad idea... Deep cycle batteries are not used in a car because of the amount of current needed to turn the starter... the batteries used in cars are called SLI- which means Starting, lighting and ignition, they were created specifically to address the car industry, Deep cycles are meant to provide lower current for longer periods IE a camper, or electric golf cart, they are better because they have better discharge than an SLI, but that comes with the downside that they dont deliver huge amounts of power quickly, which would either cause the starter to run much more slowly or cause the starter to run much hotter and shorten its life.
@@compzac Zack I'm an old-school Backwoods mechanic and I've been trained as an aviation and diesel mechanic. I know the difference in a nicad battery and a lead acid battery as well as how to neutralize both. The reason I run deep Cycles in my vehicle's even though you're not technically supposed to it's because I've left the key on with my inverter a dozen times and the deep cycle is a hell of a lot easier to recover because it's used to being run down more. That's why you mainly put them in boats and RVs. I know you're not supposed to but I'll tell you in almost all my Mud Equipment I have deep Cycles for that exact reason. If you let a deep cycle sit for a few hours usually it can recover enough juice to crank your car no you don't have the cranking amps that some cars require. It's always good to look at your CC a before you decide what battery you're putting into your vehicle but a deep cycle will not do any damage. Again I prefer running them because I run a lot of inverters and put a high draw for a long. Of time on my batteries
I had a battery which if I stopped after a long drive and put on the hazard lights after 10 minutes it wouldn't start the engine, replaced that junk for a new one never had problems since, you should do it too, they ain't even that expensive, small one like yours is like 50 bucks plus you get another 10 bucks back from the shop if you bring your old one
I'm curious if this battery will still be powerful enough in the next winter (if it survives that long). I had some batteries that were discharged until nothing worked. After recharing them, they worked as long as it was warm. As soon as the winter came and temperatures dropped
GrafKrolock82 I think you might also find that when it's cold, the engine oil is thicker and doesn't lubricate the engine as efficiently, especially at startup
12V nominal is actually pretty much the lower end of the operating range of a lead acid car battery. Because of the nature of Lead acid batteries, if they are depleted to the 11V range or lower, it pretty easily damages them permanently. It's pretty much safe to say a battery that is floating around 11.0V or lower, is toast.
Your starter was having a hard time. Have you checked its tremmie pipe connection to the differential girdlespring? ....I don't know what else it could be unless your lunar waneshaft is unbalanced/bent and causing the side-fumbling all by itself
