My Bally Pinball Wizard would not start. Your tutorial led me in the right direction to a broken solder joint. You saved me a couple of hundred dollar service call. I owe you a beer.
It’s a good troubleshooting technique for that vintage gottlieb. But it shouldn’t be recommended for those older gottlieb machines that have a 120 volt switch on the door. One wrong probe touch could be hazardous.
My ground wires were not making a good contact preventing a game from starting. The grounding screw in the bottom board near the power supply was not getting tight because of a stripped hole. I removed the grounding screw, put in a couple of toothpicks, broke them near the top of the hole, put the two wires back onto the grounding screw and screwed it all back into the hole nice and tight. A game started right up when I pressed the game button.
I have a Bally Sheba EM machine and the score motor runs continuously and won’t start a game. The score reels are resetting to zero. What do you recommend?
For technical help please join our Facebook group The Goat Shed EM Pinball Repair Specialists that way your question will be answered and others will benefit from the responses.
I came across your excellent video while looking for help. I just bought / rescued a basket case (felt sorry for it) "Williams 1966 Full House". I've got lights lit on backbox and playfield, backbox shows "ball 3 in play" (as it was when m/c was demonstrated and running fine). It was unplugged and transported, now as I just wrote lights are on, but it won't reset, any ideas would be most appreciated. Coin box and slam switch are disconnected, the "free game reel seems in a strange position, could this affect things?
Make sure you have credits in the replay window and if you took the head off the game for transport unplug and then plug back in the Jones plugs. If no go try and start a game of the coin switches. Here is a link to our Facebook group which is much easier to help you with problems as it also helps others feel free to join. facebook.com/groups/582691718587932/?ref=share_group_link
Can you explain the black alligator clip attached to the fuse, and the red "probe" touching the slate? Is the black alligator clip connected directly to the red probe, or are you using your multimeter's other probe (red) to complete the circuit? If so, which setting to you have set on the multimeter?
@@goatshedempinballrepair8545 Thanks, that's what I thought. I haven't got into an EM in about 5 years, so just wanted to make sure. HAHA. I'm working on a four square, and the slam switch on the coin door is clean. There is continuity between the switch tab and it's respective blade, (both sides) however the switch shows open circuit. Going to just alligator clip the switch tabs to see if it'll start, but this is handy too. I like the probe idea. Thin and sharp to get into tight places.
GOAT SHED, Its a common problem for pinball games CPU to freeze or have resetting issues that will LOCK the coils on and burn them up. I'm not sure why the programmers made the game code so when the CPU is frozen or has resetting issues that it Locks the coils ON and burns them up. This is caused by because all the ground wires need to go to the same STAR ground lug because if you have separate grounding points this causes a very some potential difference from ground to ground which causes the game to have resetting issues and locks the coils on which burns them out. Any reasons why separate ground points causes this issue?
@@goatshedempinballrepair8545 When the store motor is stuck locked on this will keep the coils stuck locked on which damages them? how can this be prevented so the coils won't be stuck locked on when the store motor is stuck locked on?
@@waynegram8907 it would be extremely rare on an EM game for a score motor to lock on ! If it did it would be because something jammed in the armature it's only going to likely blow the 25 volt fuse.
