This is my fav kwad right now. I built one and bought one. Try this tune! Enable master PID slider and set to 1.4, go to filter sliders and back both of them back down to 1
@Alba FPV, I appreciate the feedback! The tape I use is 10mm Black Insulating Acetate Tape I got off of Amazon, link below: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E8W9XEO
Looking for extras for my babyhawk now, where do you get the tpu skids and do you have a recommendation for a taller antenna? Only things I think I can improve on this quad
Hi Michael, I 3D printed the skids off a design on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4798640 You could also use foam skids but they are not as durable. Unless you are flying long range, I would not recommend the antenna upgrade due to oscillations of the antenna getting into the gyro for freestyle: Chris Rosser 6:25 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-K6A3JuVQ8jg.html Consider an Insta360 mount: www.racedayquads.com/products/emax-babyhawk-ii-hd-part-a-insta360-go-camera-mount
Hi True Gent, Thanks and it is ~2011 food scale of my wife's that she bought from Amazon. "Escali 2210G Alta Ultra Slim High Capacity Digital Scale" Does not look like they have this model anymore but have some newer models. SLOG
Yes mine had the Vista wired correctly for sbus and I am using the DJI RC transmitter in mode 2. If you want to use low latency make sure in the CLI "set sbus_baud_fast = on" and low latency is set in the configuration menu in the DJI goggles (go to 10 min in this video). SLOG
You really should be fine with the factory defaults as far as the beta flight configuration (unless you want low latency mode which is described in my video). This is really a matter of having the right FW on the Vista. Mads Tech does an excellent job describing what FW levels are needed on the Vista to make it compatible with the Controller 2. Link below: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-r8xUIqTHoLE.html Cheers, SLOG
Slog! One of my mates just got into Fpv (3 of us now 👌👍🤘) & I suggested this quad to him as it has good reviews. When I was talking to him about it I noticed the motors have the tiny shafts 😬 After noticing that it came off his list, then we wandered the internet some more & just came to the decision that the Armattan Gecko is the best 3" drone IF you intend on crashing. Everything else that's 3" just looks like weak frames, or has tiny shaft motors, or has a single stack for analogue not 2 spots for 20-20 stacks. The gecko ticks all these boxes. What's your thoughts on this? Any suggestions come to mind? I was honestly struggling to find a better frame but I'm sure Ive missed one or there are some I'm not aware of.
Hi Barnz1980, Good to hear from you! With the motor screws I am not too concerned as the prop sits down tight against the bell and the motor screws should protect the shaft. It is a fun little quad and is not intimidating like a 5inch. Armattan is coming out with a 3inch Tadpole with a Vista mount you might checkout. Jon E5 FPV Dronesru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bsFju4buHhE.html. Cheers, SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 interesting, I’ve bent that shaft style on smaller quads but I do fly over concrete & around poles/walls etc. do you usually just fly over the grass behind your house?
@@Barnz1980 Yes I fly mostly parks, fields and behind my house. Last year due to Covid, mostly behind my house. If you are bending shafts with prop screws you are hitting objects that don't move. I do occasionally hit a fence post. If you are flying around a lot of concrete objects I would say the Gecko is a good choice.
@@slogfpv5679 I’d love to hav area to fly out the back of your house but I have no backyard here at this place 😭, out the front is some grass but bitumen road, concrete footh paths etc 😭 all good going down on grass but when you hit the hard stuff it’s a bit different 😬. I’ve still gotten away without breaking so much but I’ve definitely had some bad hits, have you cracked the Betaflight osd chip on MB in half before? Whoops 😅 Oh also I’ve had emax 1606 motors on the gecko for last 4-5 months, I bought emax 1606 & xing 1507 at the same time because the price was very similar & both seem to get good reviews, the emax motors sound terrible from brand new compared to the xing. Quite a noticeable difference. The emax did take an absolute pounding since they were on the quad so I can’t complain. Just swapped the emax 1606 out yesterday for new xings 1507 on my OG gecko, I also took apart my Cat machine works massive drone 3” that had xing 1507 & put everything into a 2nd gecko frame. Now I have 2 geckos with vistas, xing motors & mamba stacks (insert evil laugh)
@Cyborg Pirate, If you do not want to use 3D print shop you might check out the Armattan 3M Dog Bone Foam Landing Pads. Link below: www.racedayquads.com/products/armattan-3m-dog-bone-foam-landing-pads-4-pieces?_pos=60&_sid=c4a9c4349&_ss=r
Hi Mike Bradley, I think Joshua Bardwell does a good job at showing how to create a new model and bind it to your RC transmitter. If your transmitter (FRSKY D8) is running OPENTX, this video goes through the steps. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Iy0UYHn9RAQ.html SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 Thanks, I got it setup and flying. I was missing two things: 1st, there are two separate bind buttons. One to bind the goggles and one to bind the transmitter. The transmitter one is hidden in the middle of the drone. I followed the little antenna to find it. 2nd, there are two usb ports one for hooking up to DJI and the other that hooks up to beta-flight. I was trying all day to hook up the drone to beta-flight via the DJI usb-c port instead of the usb-micro port.
Hi Sunrise Water Media, the motor post is literally a post or shaft with threads that fits into the center hole of a prop (centers the prop on the motor). The BabyHawk II is a T-Mount so it is a post. Screw holes on either side of the post attach the prop with screws for a T-Mount. SLOG
Not sure what version of DJI goggles you have, but for V2s there was an issue in the FW where it would switch into DJI FPV Drone mode and would not be compatible with Vista's or DJI Air Units. Mad's Tech overview of the issue and DJI FW fix: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g2TeIhofrq4.html
Hello AlbaFPV, two things to check is making sure you are running profile1 and that you are using a 850mAh 4S battery. Also if you are running an insta360, you may have to adjust the PID tune. So yes lighter quads are more sensitive to weight changes as far as the PID tune. In my video look at some split S moves and there is a little prop wash. If that is excessive to you, the FC has black box capability which you could use to do some fine tuning. Chris Rosser has a good video series on tuning. SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 Thanks I am using R-line 850mah and no cam but that comment helps, I broke my emax props so had to swap to the only other 3.5" prop I could find - HQProp T3.5X2X3 Grey Propeller Poly Carbonate and the problem is even worse now so ill definitely have a look at his videos and see if theres antything I can do. Don't get me wrong, I love it but I love diving down through the trees etc and the prop wash is a bit much, more than I saw in your video.
@@DinGuSco As an aside, because the props are hard to find, I bought some extra sets going directly to EMAX-USA. They were shipped and delivered relatively quickly. SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 I am in UK but ill check it out thanks, I have 10 sets coming from China on Banggood and the reviews sound like they are the real deal or as good as
The throttle on mine seems really shallow. When I raise the throttle to 25%, I'm already at the hover-point. Is there a way to raise the hover-point to 50% throttle? I calibrated the esc's, changed the props to a lower pitched 3.5" prop, and lowered the max throttle to 90% (scaled) but the hover-point is still lower than I would like. I also tried messing with the throttle expo, but it didn't really accomplish what I wanted and I'd rather have 0 expo on the throttle. If anyone has an idea, I would really appreciate it.
Hi Gregory, yes 25% is normal for a quad with low disk loading (ie prop area to weight ratio). You have a lot more throttle range to play with on quads that hover at a lower throttle. I prefer it. SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 Awesome, I really appreciate your reply. I'm sure I can get used to it, just wasn't sure if I could change it with an easy setting in betaflight. I fly under trees in my backyard, so throttle management is pretty tight when cornering. Thanks for getting back to me though, I just subscribed!
@@gregorypaul7898 I do like he said. When I need less power I run 3S on a 4S quad. So much easier than messing with settings. But you can also run motor limit of 75% to make it like flying a 3S
Can someone just fly this str8 out of the box ..with no custom tunes. tweeks etc. just bind with DJI goggles and controller. The only drone I have are Geprc Tiny go 4k and Eachine Novice IV. I am wanting to go digital and next lvl up.
Hi Arthur, Emax does a good job of setting up quads to be true "bind and fly". Also, the DJI digital FPV protocol is one of the easier systems to bind your quad. The tips in this video are preferences and are not required to get this bird in the air. SLOG
Albert Kim does a good job in this video on how to troubleshoot Betaflight USB connection errors. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0mrJG7AOmRI.html
Hi Mariusz, I am more of a close in pilot and usually only run the Vista at 200mW (runs cooler). I would check out Nurk FPV he did some LR tests on this quad. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--ri4XpW9iIc.html SLOG
I do not have the Geprc smart 35 but I would go with the Emax BabyHawk II if you can find it. Better Camera, lower price and no props in view. I am not a big fan of the Nebula Nano camera on the smart 35 now that the pro has been released. I do like the 3.5 inch quads in general so you could always upgrade the camera later on the Smart 35. SLOG
