Most underrated dog training channel. Clear instruction as always. Spock is such an adorable puppy. One of my favorite breeds. Love to see more of his training videos.
Great reinforcement to the video in basic training series. My puppy is so conditioned now she tries to generate rewards regularly. Does her best sit, down, climb bed, sleep bed, centres (when I least expect it 😂), heel position and peek-a-boo - that’s one I taught her. The free shaping I’ve learned from your videos is brilliant. She has lots of great and polite behaviours now thanks to this method. You are truly wonderful 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Awesome! Thank you! Look for version 3 when I release it. I'll be sure you get a copy of that one as well. I've added a lot to the manual and removed some of the repetitive info. It's a much better read. Should be ready in a week or so. :)
Thank you so much for your videos they are invaluable- and your teaching style is so easy to follow - i became a member of channel last week and the extra content is great and I definitely want you to be able to continue with these videos.
Your point about the delay between markers and reward reminds me of Kay Lawrence talking about the party to the fridge if you need to mark something and don’t have the reinforcer on you. Love your vids I have so many to binge backwards on.
Been watching your videos the past week or so and I love them. And it's cool to see you so engaged with the comments section (even replied to an earlier comment of mine), but I forgot to ask. I wanted to know what your thoughts on neutering pets are. I don't know whether it's the right decision or not and there seem to be a lot of people saying different things. Would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks for the great videos and tutorials!
Thanks! Check out this video, Bethany talks about spay and neutering in the episode and I agree with her: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G_cczA1r470.html Basically, you don't want to get them fixed until they reach full maturity. So around 2 years of age. Too early can cause health problems down the road.
All your videos are great and very informative. Best channel out of all the ones I have found. If you don't mind what are the dimensions of you climbing platforms?
Awesome! I'm sure you'll do an excellent job with the training. Consider becoming a member of my RU-vid Channel. For only $1.99 a month, you'll receive priority responses to comments, access to live Q&As for members only, custom emojis, badges, and you'll help me continue making great dog training content. Sign up here: ru-vid.comjoin Cheers!
Thanks for all the amazing training videos Nate. Your techniques are working very well on my puppy. Keep up the good work! I would like to request you to give some tips to train smaller breed dogs. I have a JRT and I am struggling to teach him the down command. I have tried your technique of holding the treat between thumb and forefinger and keeping the hand close to the ground. My JRT does not touch his rear body to ground no matter how much I try. Any suggestions?
Thanks! Yes, I would suggest trying leash pressure. I think that will help you with the down command and many other commands as well. Here's a video on it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9L8tK7mSD10.html
This is the first step that all trainer shouldve taken. I was wrong not finishing this video because my first time training my pup I wanted him to learn obedience and tricks. And here I am going back to this because my dog isn't even looking at me when training outside.
Just started working with my puppy on these and the only issue I’m having is my fingers getting all sore from the puppy teeth. He’s catching on quickly to “yes” but when I try “free” it’s hard to get him to move. After watching this video again I realized I needed to be taking steps backwards as well to encourage that movement. Whoops 😅 excited to try again this afternoon!
I'm sure you'll do great! Check out this video on how I hold the treats: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DNFeuWmotmo.html it's about 4 minutes into the video. Cheers!
This is a perfect intro! Good timing, too, we got two puppies yesterday. I've been doing this just like you said, and within minutes they were both paying attention, following the lure, sitting and even coming after let them wander away. My question: should I train them together so they can learn from each other, or train them separately so they don't distract each other?
Thanks! I always train separate. Once they know all the commands, then you can train them together to make sure they will listen regardless of the extra distractions. Check out this article. www.nateschoemer.com/post/how-to-properly-socializing-your-dog
Hey Nate, as usual a great video. My puppy does what I trained him, however on a “yes” he breaks his position and gets up (he seems to be excited that he did the right thing). What am I doing wrong? How can I fix this? Your dog licks his lips and doesn’t move.
Hi Nat what treats do you recommend or food? Also my puppy is turning 3 months this week should I start training? Thank you in advance for your response
I start training as soon as the puppy is comfortable in their new environment. Here are most of the products I use with my dogs, including treats and food. www.nateschoemer.com/store
It looks like you're using a flat collar. I'm reading your book, and I'm wondering why you choose a flat collar for this video over a martingale collar for a rough collie puppy. I heard that they're usually sensitive dogs. Would you suggest a flat collar for a collie puppy?
Maybe getting a puppy in a month! =D My current dog is a rough collie too! I'm looking forward to following your videos step by step and retraining my collie, as well as training my new puppy. I kind of messed up on the commands while training my collie so yes, okay, good all kind of mean the same thing =/ haha.
Hahahaha! My dog is such a newbie with this exercise, but she heard you saying "yes" so many times on my laptop she came over expecting me to give her a treat.
Hi Nat! Thank you for all the info you share! I have a question for you. How can I train my puppy while my boyfriend's dog is around? Should I call their names before each command? We are currently practicing engagement and if i call up "free" both of them come! We live together, we don't use crate and we cannot easily isolate in the house because the puppy gets distracted hearing the older dog whining if we are in another room. Didn't m,ention that the pupp needs constant work if she's awake because she gets bored and starts messing around.
How long it is typical to spend in engagement and conditioning to the markers? I've had my puppy about 3 weeks and have trained with her a few times every day. I *think* she is conditioned to the markers but not really sure. She is definitely engaged with me and looks directly at my face all day long for interaction, which 99% I give her just because I adore her. 🤣 I'd love some sort of rough time line for progressing with a puppy being consistently worked with toward basic obedience.
Most dogs will become conditioned to the markers within a day or so. After that I start using it in my training routine. For each dog I train, I train at the speed the dog is progressing at, since each dog will be different. :)
If you go through my basic obedience series in order, then you should be able to train your dog yourself. However, group classes are great for socializing your dog.
Hi! Again thank you for all the videos! Just a question, you said in one of your videos that we should make the training the most exciting thing for our puppy, does this mean that I should limit or remove play time? My 3 month old puppy most of the time just lies down when we start training. Hehe Thank you again!
Thanks! No, I wouldn't remove play outside of training. I actually spend more time playing with puppies, then I do training them. Lol But make it all fun! :)
Question: All along the Training process you just work with the dog and then you incorporate the Owner to transfer the right Timming of the Commands OR the owner is incorporated During the Training process with you? Beautiful Technic Nate!!! Regards from Barcelona, Spain.
Thanks! It's best if the owner is working with the dog everyday with the right training guidance. This puppy belongs to my friend and she's going to be working with the pup everyday as well, so she can learn the process and reinforce all the rules. I no longer offer board and train services, but when I did, I would do all the training and then I would teach the owners how to continue the training as well as reinforce all the rules. Cheers!
@@NateSchoemer Thank you Nate, for your dedication and clarity when presenting your work and for taking time to answer all the questions.!!!! Looking foward for the next video!! Best Regards
Hi Nate, Could you clarify on what you said @14:55? So you only start to really use the continuation marker once you have introduced the verbal command? I'm teaching sit and down to my Aussie puppy right now and started using the continuation marker right away. She seems to be getting it really well, but I don't want to confuse her or make things difficult later on. Thanks for the reply in advance!
Of course. :) Firstly, there are the two positive types of markers: The first one is the continuation marker. This is a word or sound that lets the dog know that they are correct and will be delivered a reward. It’s called a continuation marker because unlike the terminal marker, it doesn’t release the dog. Meaning, if your dog is in a command stay, you can use this marker without releasing the dog from the stay. However, if your dog is not in a command stay, then this marker just means they’ll be rewarded. Therefore, this often confuses people because of the terminology “continuation”. This is why it’s easier to understand by what it predicts: A continuation marker predicts a reward. That’s it. It doesn’t change the circumstances, so if the dog is in a stay, they remain in the stay, and if the dog is not in a stay, then they remain free from the stay. In contrast, we have the terminal markers. These release dogs from commanded positions as well as guaranteeing a reward. Ex.: If a dog was in a sitting position and you use your terminal marker, they are released from that position and will be given a reward (indicating the sit behavior is finished). We have two versions of this marker: The first version lets the dog know that they’re correct, and they will come to the trainer for the reward, which also releases them from the prior behavior. The second version of the terminal marker lets the dog know they are correct, and they may go and get their reward. Ex.: If you had a ball out on the training field and your dog was aware that the ball was there, they would be released to get the toy. However, you can use the same marker for both of these if you choose. Often the dog will know if you have the reward on your person or in the training field. Since I teach my dogs an implied stay, meaning if I tell a dog to sit, they are in a sit stay, I don’t have to say the word “stay”. When I first start teaching the verbal command, I prefer to use the terminal marker. This gives me an opportunity to do multiple reps in a short amount of time and it relieves me of the added pressure of trying to reinforce a stay. In addition, the dogs will learn to perform the behaviors more quickly, because they will learn that the faster they perform the command, the faster they will be released and rewarded. Keep in mind that speed is based on motivation. The more motivated your dog is, the faster they will move. I hope this helps. Thanks!
@@NateSchoemer Thank you so much for the detailed reply, I really appreciate it! I thought the physical cue is also a form of command, so if I lift my hands up for a sit, that would be a sit command, but now I got what you mean. Thanks again!
How would you calm a puppy at the vet who is crying after receiving a vaccination, for example? I'm a vet and a lot of my clients often pet their puppies, others try to ignore them completely. In a few weeks I'll get an 8 week old Malinois, so I want to give her a good start and she shouldn't be afraid when I have to vaccinate her or something like that. :)
Our dogs always learn through predictability. I tell pet owners to take the most valuable reward they can find with them to the vet. This is the only time they are allowed to give this reward to their dog, no other time, or it won't be as effective. I tell them to act normal like it's any other day. After the dog gets the shot, I ask them to mark and reward the high-value treat. Once the pup realizes that the vaccine predicts this excellent reward, they become happy about the vet because of what it predicts.
What happens if you say "YES" and during the time from the "YES" and the dog gets the food "the dog moves or does a behaviour we don't want to reward", do we still reward the "YES" or do we not reward the dog because of the unwanted behaviour? Thanks
It depends a lot on the dog. Back when I offered board and train services, I had an adjustment period for each dog that was in the training. For example; the program would be a 3-week stay and train. This is when the dog stays with me and I train it each day. However, I gave each dog an adjustment period where I wouldn't do any obedience until they trusted me and were comfortable in the house. For some dog's this could take a week, while others would take a day or so. I wouldn't charge my clients for this adjustment period. It was included in the stay and train. The reason for this was to prevent the dog from having a bad association with the training. If a dog is uncomfortable and then you try to train it, it will associate that feeling with the training, and as a side effect, the dog would not enjoy the work and wouldn't perform as well. By waiting till the dog was comfortable with me and I built up some trust, then the dog would always do much better with the training.
Here's a section from my dog training manual that I believe will be helpful. Before we start training our dogs, we must know what motivates them. With any dog I start training, I like to begin with food and luring. Now, something I’m often asked by people is, “How do I train my dog when my dog doesn’t have any food motivation?” First, let me start by saying that every dog has food motivation, what varies is how intense the food motivation is. If you have a dog with low food motivation, there are techniques that you can use to increase that food drive. Most dog’s low food motivation is caused by a few things: Either the dog has been overfed, free-fed, given very high value food such as cooked steak, or sometimes just feeding out of a bowl can cause this. As a result, the dog just doesn’t care that much about getting fed as a reward. A common technique that we like to use to correct a lack of food drive is food deprivation. For this you will want to use mealtime as a training time. Bring the dog out and offer food to train, if the dog is not interested, no big deal, put the food away and try again at dinner. Again, if the dog is not interested, put the food away and try again the next day. Continue to do this until your dog is willing to work for the food. Be sure not to give the dog any food between training. The dog has to know that he will only get food that he works for. I’ve used this technique on dozens of dogs and it’s worked every time.
Hey Nate! My puppy gets overly excited when seeing people and other dogs. She tends to run towards them (pulling/chocking herself) and jumps on them. Maybe this is just normal puppy behavior but what can I do to slowly prevent this. When it’s her and I, she is very good at leash pressure and, for the most part, does not pull during walks.
Hey Jekko! Check out this article on socializing. I talk about the process of training in new environments with added distractions. www.nateschoemer.com/post/how-to-properly-socializing-your-dog
Today my rotty(12 weeks old) got all riled up when i picked him up.He was very tired and hungry at that time still I didn't expect him to be showing that kind of aggression. This is the first time he got so mad and showed such behaviour towards me. How do you see this.Please suggest what should i do to prevent such incident from happening in future. Much love from India.
thank you!! i skipped a bit of you talking but this really helped me understand engagement training! my puppy and i havent been training since ive been busy with school and my grandfather just got in the hospital so times have been hard. he has heart problems and needs blood but the doctors said if everything goes as it should, he should be out in a couple days. i just got done training kai (my puppy) i trained him for about 5 minutes because _libbythelab_ on instagram recommended not to train puppies for too long (2-5 minutes) and train him how often you want in a day, just know not to overwork your puppy and go to new environments every week to engagement train, as you saw in the video!! thank you
Thank you so much. Am having trouble with my 22 week rottie girl with resource guarding. It seems ok at first but then the longer she keeps it the more she wants to protect her bones
Hmmm awfully complicated. Many dog owners don’t have the time or attention span your lesson requires to master …. and yet make loving , good dog owners.
