Also, those core plug holes are there because that's where the inner and outer sand cores were connected together. Being able to get the spent sand out of the cavity is just a bonus.
hi there i see you build a lot of chevy stuff but do you build mopar stuff that's the good shit forged cranks from the sixty's up until 71 best rod length's in the industry good flowing heads you can build a bad ass motor that'll stay together for a long time.
Yep I love Mopar's have a 440 build on my channel they are not as popular mostly because of their scarcity and high cost of building the new Hemi's are the real ticket nowadays
do you mean the clock? that is to let the next shift at the foundry know what time the mold was poured so they know when to remove the block from the mold
"core plugs" ,Something I was unaware of. This a great channel. What about nodular iron cranks? They were popular in a lot of older engines such as my Oldsmobile 350. Most Oldsmobile engine builders seem to agree they can handle up to 600 horsepower in their respected application. I know Ford commonly used nodular cranks in many of their engines as well with durable results.
Nodular and forged cranks are the popular aftermarket choices for swapping, though it is dependant on what you wanna run it for. If you're trying to street 600 horsepower consistently on a daily car, yeah you want a crank that can handle it, but really it's unnecessary stress on the bearings and rotating assembly to have that much horsepower on a daily driver, go for the nodular or forged cranks for drag racing or circuit. The bearings themselves are what can make the difference, as drag racing bearings are going to be different than circuit racing bearings, drag racing parts have to take the brunt of quick torquey launches, while circuit racing bearings can be used dual purpose endurance racing and are streetable.
I have a question for you. Where did you go to school and how much of your knowledge is from school vs experience? I'm giving serious thought to building race engines again for oval truck and mud trucks. I have built several for mud trucks and drag strip and had much success. Only problem I have is I have not gone to school. I've learned from experience starting at a young age building junkyard motors blowing them up and learnin the hard way. Sense those days I am constantly researching and learning. I can design blueprint and build a race engine no problem. However it's the machining that I seriously lack knowledge in. And the other problem is everything I know is for sbc and bbc. Given ford and mopar operate on the same basis I know they are different. What advice can you give to help me make my decision? Btw. Love all your videos. Always good info and spot on explanations. Keep it up!
What you are describing is your technician experience. Based on your wants, you want to become an engine designer. You will need to take classes and understand mechanical theory, thermo mechanics, and other such topics to aid in completing your understanding in designing engines.
Actually you can find aftermarket main caps.The thing is you have to find a machine shop capable of line honing the block and new caps, which can’t shouldn’t be done if proper equipment or knowledge available. Can also change to four bolt mains, usually angled outer bolts, if necessary for hp output but both of these operations is expensive $$$$.
Its called a Freeze plug cause.... GM had a hard time figuring out how too get the sand out when it was molded. So a guy name Johnny Frost that work for the Welch Brothers came up with a half dollar coin and drove it into the sand mold creating a hole that would release the sand from the cast iron block....
Chuck Koontz Yes that is correct the British often call them Welch plugs but most don't know this and think it;s a plug that saves the block from freezing that;s why I don't go there this is good info most today don't know this
Yup, us brits call them freeze plugs but i know thats totall bollocks cos ive lost 2 sbc blocks after an unexpected cold snap. ..... n we dont call them welch plugs cos the welsh are wankers ;)
Do you know if the Ford FE block is considered a big block or a small block? I don't think it is a small block but not sure what Ford classified it as.
Really, it's not a huge issue or difference. A two bolt main small block chevy 350 and a 4 bolt main small block chevy 350 are identical except for the main caps on the crankshaft journal. A 2 bolt main has crankshaft journal caps with just two holes and is shorter, and the 4 bolt main has two additional bolts and is wider. My opinion, is if your going to build for example a 350 (I'm a chevy guy) and your just going with a rebuild and it's a 2 bolt main, no biggie. If your going to build a 350, especially if your going to go with a stroker like a 383, then a 4 bolt main is going to be better because it's a little stouter and can handle more stress and larger crankshaft. Basically, in my opinion, the 4 bolt main is a tougher and better motor to build if your wanting the most out of your bottom end. By bottom end I mean a heavier longer stroke crank. You can build either one, but the 4 bolt main is stronger.
How do you tell Nodular Iron cranks from cast and / of forged? Parting line ? How? Thank you! Ps I find your videos very informative. Same for UTG UNCLE TONYS GARAGE. Ne
Well, my "72 Caddy froze one winter and some of these came out during the process, BUT, the engine was toast anyway!!!! :--))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) boohoo, I always thought that it would save the engine also, but I was sorely mistaken.
would you be able to either make a vid, or tell me alittle about doing 4 bolt splices? because i want to consider getting a 350 thats a 2 bolt main, but id like to do a 4 bolt splice, like whats the cost? and if its even worth it for a $250 block?
Thank you for the Reply:76- Last summer I got a used timing chain & was told 8 degrees BTDC. I thought what the heck as this engine is really lacking power. It now starts much better sounds different & has about 30% more power! better gas mileage too. After watching your Degree Wheel video, I understand stuff I did not,!. 9 years or so ago a bolt I put in without locktight came out on the Timing gear sprocket, this allowed the cam to move backwards & broke off teeth on the distributer gear, as its softer than the cam gear. This killed it, 3 times, I got it running & April I will look for internal oil leaks and new cam bearings, with engine out! it has new seats & guides & a belly pan, compression is good/ reasonable. There is a steel body plate on top of the engine,6"to 8"cannot go up much, this engine is very detuned from the factory!, I needed to unhook the car on hills many times. Nick W.
on a simple 406 build with stk crank and rods and H601P pistons... as far as heads and cam go, will a 906 and 12-600-4 cc be decent on a daily 70s impala? or should i do what my better judgement is telling me and sell the vortec gmpp, run a eddy and a set of 72-76cc heads until i get a head like brodix or afr?
Good video man. Your videos always have the best explanations. Learned a whole lot about engines and building from your channel. Wish I could get real life experience but not much opportunities here.
Excellent videos. On this block video I noticed you never mentioned that in addition to the bores being true, they need to be square to each other (i.e cylinder bores 90 degrees to crank bore). Keep up the great work.
Hi can you tell me i've got a 350 chev motor in my HQ Holden . What do the numbers at the top of the back of the block K10 and the number 39700010 mean thank you.
3: if you're buying a brand new block, and aiming for 700 hp, an aluminium block will have no disadvantage, except that it is usually much more expensive to buy compared to a cast iron block. Aside from that, an aluminium block will be much lighter, which is always a plus
5: if you're taking Chevy big/small blocks, then yes, generally a big block will be more durable, although ls engines are very tough as well compared to a normal chevy small block
Hi, I have a 460 ford engine in a small motorhome- it is a dog, it sucks a lot of Gas! (best is 8 mpg) 3 speed C6 auto. but after all I have done on the outside, it still cannot deal with a slight hill on the freeway -- it forces me to use 2nd at 40mph, I am towing an 86 Honda accord. (speed is now 80mph trucks go 70) The problem has been traced to cam timing and maybe the Cam? The engine will get new cam bearings in April! could you please advise myself who sells adjustable timing chains? & will a stock cam do! I need 60 or 70 on freeway so I feel 8 degrees BTDC or more is good, I value your opinon. I have 50 years on foreign cars! I am at kimbelnick@gmail.com
I would go with a bigger cam RV type I am assuming when you say adjustable timing chain you mean cam gear you don't really need one I would call Comp cams and tell them what you have told me they can recommend a good cam you also might consider a better intake and carb the engine could also be down on compression I would check that as well
I just watched your video on big block heads and wanted to make a couple comments on what I've done. Working on a tight budget. I built a 454 from a mid70s pickup. Using the original flat top pistons, I put older closed chamber heads with the big valves to get some compression. I had to enlarge the valve reliefs in the pistons a little, which I did with a grinder.I just had a mild torque cam and performer intake. I don't know how much power it made,but it ran 12.20s@109 in a stock bodied 66 chevelle with 3.08 gears and slicks
Ice did pop out a freeze plug on me once and the block was still fine I used a rubber expansion plug in a 67 cutlass supreme shit had to be 30 yrs ago now lol good video
Are there better cast blocks based off the year they were made or what vehicle they came out of? Say for a 350. Are the earlier ones better or is there not a difference?
The SBC 010 castings had a higher nickel content that made them more rigid the content was lowered in the later casting for weight savings on a stock or mild build it doesn't make much of a differance
I was wondering if you know this question, I saw a test done on Ford and Chevy OEM Blocks that where supposed to have a higher nickel content, well this article done in 2010 discovered that there was absolutely No Nickel in any OEM Block! What's your take on that? I see guys trying to make a sale based on Nickel??
I have a question. I was attempting to drive in one of the front oil galley plugs on a 302 that I'm building. I accidentally drove it in too far. Any tips, as to how to remove it?
Quick question for you. I have been looking around for an engine block and don't have the funds to buy one new. What should I look for so I don't waste my money on a boat anchor? Do I need to invest in a gauge set to quickly check the cylinders for example before hauling it off? I want to build a stroker out of a 302 to replace the SBF 260 in my 64 falcon. By the way I really enjoy your videos thanks for posting them.
I would buy a complete engine with a small block ford the newer the better try to find a mustang or truck engine that is a 5.0 roller engine newer means much less chance it's been rebuilt + roller cam is much better you don't need a gage set make sure it rotates pull the pan look for rods or mains that are black if its outside and full of rain water walk away
I was giving a LT1 motor and transmission from a police caprice classic, i believe it is a 96, I would like to have rebuilt and put into my 74 Nova. I do not want EFI because it is over my head, is it possible to convert that motor to carburetor? Also will my 350TH transmission work with that motor?
+Myvintageiron7512 i have that very engine in my 96 camaro well its the same engine with my engine having aluminum heads. B body=cast iron heads, f body and corvette= aluminum heads. what do you think of that engine.
+andrew donohue there is also nothing wrong with the EFI system on that engine. i would research keeping it EFI. you will get better power and fuel efficiency. if you kept it EFI and ran a TH 700 R4 or a 4L60E you could get into the 20's for mileage.
How do you tell if a motor is a 4 or 2 bolt main? I don't quite understand how that works. Also if your building an engine and it has rust in the coolant passages I take it that the owner of that engine would want to have the block hot tanked or cleaned out so that there aren't extra problems to arrise when you build the block? Thanks
When he's describing the main caps you can see this particular block has two bolts fastening each cap to the block, one on each side of the crank bore. That makes this a typical two bolt main factory big block. A four bolt will typically have two bolts on each side of the crank bore, though most if not all factory "four bolt" big block will only have four bolt main caps on the three center mains. Whereas small blocks will typically have them from front to back. A modern "skirted" block with six bolt mains will have a similar setup as a four bolt on top with two bolts on each side of the crank bore, but will have an intersecting bolt on each side of the block that goes through the skirting into the sides of the main caps.
I think he was asking how to identify if an engine is 2 or 4 bolt by looking at it without the pan removed. If you have the engines build code that will sometimes tell you but most often, the easiest way to tell is by removing the pan.
@@mrmcscrub9753 you have it backward. all 4 bolt big blocks have all the mains 4 bolt. some small blocks have only the 3 center mains as 4 bolt. if you see a big block with only the center mains as 4 bolt, then that was done at a machine shop. maybe the guy couldn't afford to have all the mains done.
+loudpipesavelives69 At the foundry where the blocks were cast there were 3 shifts working, when a block was poured in a mold the worker added the clock to let the worker on the next shift know what time the mold was poured so he would know when to pull the mold apart and get the block out
