Aaron Brandes you can always buy the books about all the Porsche’s on line like I did. The added benefit is there is no factory service intervals & storage area is relatively small.
I Had a 1969 911T a few years back, it was the love of my life and so much fun. But I can tell you this everything on the car costs billions. EG, someone broke into the car and stole the CD player. To get in they broke the quaterlite. They come in 3 colors, mine was smoked brown, £225 to replace the glass and fit....that was 20 years ago.
They were affordable not too long ago. I picked up a ‘69 911T for about $8000 25 years ago. Needed a new floorpan but the engine was solid as far as I could tell. Shouldn’t have ever sold it, didn’t realize how much the value would balloon.
Just for noting; I've done the intermediate shaft repair on the newer engine (a serious design flaw). I grew up with the air-cooled engines, Still have my mechanic's certificates from Porsche Audi and VW and attended the schools, and also had a thorough racing background. The air-cooled engines weren't perfect, they had chain tensioner issues, the seals would turn into concrete, freezing everything in place, but they are still great machines and I can't "Warm-up" to the newer engines. That's old age for you. In the seventies, I had to buy some of my own tools to work on the engines because the dealer in Tucson managed the tools so poorly. I was fired because I took too long to rebuild a badly damaged 911 engine while the fellow next to me was wiping covers off, so it looked like he had adjusted the valves. Rebuilding these engines is not a flat rate job.
Very unfortunate story. I wish we all would have seen what was coming back then. As years pass we were getting closer and closer to this DISPICABLE Woke virus outbreak. I too was fired for nothing more than being Over-qualified. That was the beginning. Soon we got Participation Trophies and no winners and losers. What I would give for a time machine
After watching this video, I went and put on some latex gloves, took out my tools, and changed that burnt out lightbulb in the bathroom. You and I, we arent really all that different - Thanks for the inspiration!
A beautiful and meticulous engine rebuild. It's truly a work of art! That 51 year old block looks practically brand new. I'd love to have a space like yours to work in, you're obviously a true craftsman and unlike most people, you think *before* you act and potentially make a mistake. Moreover, your attention to detail is nothing short of mesmerizing. Literally nobody possesses this quality now days. I wish you many years of happy motoring in your awesome vintage 911.
You’re doing a wonderful job at explaining everything, taking your time and putting every bit and piece together with love and patience. Lots of respect!
what job ? engines are not lego toys,, if youa seembly or before it you ahve to check everything and test it.. otherwise forget it,, it will not last or perform well...
I bought one of these engines back in 1986. It was to fit in a Porsche replica. Covin. The engine had destroyed itself due to the old 911 cars having a mild steel oil tank which corroded. Sending rusty oil through the engine. Porsche using a oil filter on the return instead of on the feed. After a complete rebuild I then grafted the engine to a VW beetle gearbox. Everyone said it could not be done but we managed it using a 924 clutch plate grafted to a 911 centre. The car went like a rocket but was not very fast due to the Beetle gearbox final drive ratio. Cost £500 for the blown engine. £350 for crank regrind & shells. Ran beautifully. It was a 2.2T engine with the triple I think Solex carburettors. Your build is superb.
Great series. One suggestion: when using the torque wrench adapter, keep the adapter perpendicular to the torque wrench. Allowing the adapter to run parallel with the wrench adds length, thus, leverage, resulting in an inaccurate torque value. Not a big deal with many applications, but fairly important with internals like connecting rods, etc.
When you extend the length of a torque wrench by fitting a tool to give you access you change its leverage. You should use the torque wrench at 90 degrees to the tool. It has the same effective leverage it’s just offset. However you checked the stretch of the bolts and if in tolerance you are covered. Nice workshop setup I dream to have one like it one day. Good video work. Thanks Tony
The torque wrench click on torque value not on force value. Changing the lever or not appliying force at 90° does not matter because only the end torque is measured.
a bit more detail on effects of extensions on wikipedia en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_wrench So most of the time handle extension is no problem. If the wrench mechanism rotate around the bolt i guess any extension would be fine.
@@TheAntoine191 You are dead wrong. Anthony W is correct. Imagine if the torque wrench is 0.1m long, and the extender tool is 1m. To torque to 100Nm "click" you must pull 1000N on the wrench (0.1m*100N=1000Nm). If we look at the torque as seen by the nut being torqued, the arm is 1.1m, and the force is 1000N, so the torque is 1000n*1.1m=1100NM or 1100% too much. The 90° is the normal rule to fix this, but what you actually need to do, is make sure the arm from your hand to the bolt is the same as the length of the torque wrench arm. It will be a little more than 90°.
@@erikev you say this because you're thinking it's the force that makes a torque wrench click when it's directly the torque that makes it click. All torque wrenches rotate around a pivot. Then a few torque wrench rotate around the bolt, those can be used with any kind of lever, crow foot or angle no prob. Same for electronic ones. They are instrumented to measure directly the torque not the force you exert. Then most torque wrenches have a measuring pivot close but not perfectly on the bolt. So those are intended to be used without extension or crow foot. However using a handle will mess the measurement but only a fraction because the measuring pivot is close to the bolt. Then an extended crow foot will mess it significantly more (bad idea). If you want a quick experiment for angle try to make a torque wrench click by pushing directly on it (0°). Even at a low setting it will never click because no torque is generated on the measuring pivot.
@@TheAntoine191 A torque gauge does not measure torque but measures force on the bar at a fixed distance from the pivot point and converts that to torque. The extension he was using is what is referred to as the Crows Foot and requires the equation as shown in the link because the effective reading point of the torque gauge is further away from the pivot point and angled. This would be evident to anyone with grade school level of physics. This is all irrelevant as his final measurement was of bolt stretch and not torque and I would hope that kavs911 would know this but telling us that or by using a ring spanner with the stretch meter would have clarified that he is not making a stupid mistake in an initial stage of the assembly. You post a link to reinforce your point but did not read the subheadings. Using handle or socket extensions requires no adjustment of the torque setting. Using a crow's foot or similar extension requires the use of the following equation.
I believe that stretch tool is designed to be left on the bolt while tightening, so you can stretch to the exact amount. Taking it on and off could risk stretching beyond required amount. Loving this series, good job!
I really enjoyed your video. You were quite meticulous in keeping things clean with lint free wipes and I really enjoyed your stretch measurements. That's a pretty expensive measurement tool. Nothing is ever cheap these days. Thank you.
Awesome stuff Mike. Love your work. You have inspired me to get hold of an older 911 and recon the vehicle, engine and all, which I would never have tried to do prior to your videos. Thank you
This guy is uncanny, that is, the quality of his work. Certainly not the first time he's gone downtown on the bus by himself ! Super clean installation, the way it should be !
SingleCab Steve ...Great advice. I also use it as an indicator if something goes wrong. If you run the paint mark from the nut/bolt across to it’s mating surface you can see if anything has come loose while in operation and identify possible causes of failure or problems.
OUTSTANDING!! I forgot how much fun a 911 engine is to rebuild. The killer part is the cam timing. Can’t wait to see the rest of your rebuild. Also glad to hear that Ollies is still the best!
I thank you for this. Actually find it very relaxing, where I was previously anxiety ridden at the thought of an engine rebuild, you make it all as clear as day.
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing. I'm going to be rebuilding my 1984 3.2 engine in the next few months. I've never done a 911 engine before, your video is very helpful. Thanks again.
Great video! I rebuild a 911 engine every 5 years or so and I'm always looking for reference material. To measure the deck height, use the plastigage on top of the piston. Assemble piston, cylinder and head. Slowly turn engine over by hand. If you feel any resistance, stop! Then disassemble and check plastigage for proper clearance. Add or subtract spacers to get the clearance where you want it. If the plastigage is slightly thinker when you test you will have lower compression, but more safety if you miss a shift. Can't wait to see the next video!!
Hi Kav I just got a torque wrench adapter as per the one you use the torque the rod bolts - with the instructions. To quote them: "when you mount the adapter to a torque wrench, you effectively lengthen it; therefore the torque value set on the actual wrench will not be the actual torque that you apply on the fastener... before using the torque wrench adapter you must recalculate the torque specification... you must use the extension formula included with the wrench". The formula is R =( T*L/L+A) where R = the corrected torque reading, T = the actual torque reading, L = torque wrench levees length (centre of grip to centre of drive), A = torque adapter length (the one you use is 3 inches). When using 3 inches for A, the torque wrench and adapter must be in line; if the adapter is positioned at an angle to the torque wrench, A will be decreased... when the adapter is at 90 degrees to the torque wrench, distance A will be zero... Hope this info is of use as I recall another poster saying something different, so I thought I'd quote directly from the manufacturer as I guess they should know what they are doing! Your work (and videos) are truly amazing and inspirational... my 2.0 normal is in rebuild at the moment; it is the first time it has been apart since 1973... Cheers
Thanks for taken time to reply, that was a nice build, but If the adapter is a fixed length, and the torque wrench delivers the fix torque you set it to, were does the torque wrench length come in, 100NM on any torque wrench is 100NM is it not, or did i miss something here, and was there a reason why you did not just use an extension bar and socket to torq the cap bolts up, as that would minimise the risk of errors, i know not so important if you measure the stretch, but in a torq only roll, you don’t add a risk if you can avoid it.
I was a licensed aircraft mechanic back in the early sixties. I worked in general aviation and for the Air Force. The basic tenant of aircraft work was neatness and organization. Without learning and practicing these two attributes you could not hold a job. Look inside a GA hanger and you will see sparkling cleanliness and Uber organization. All is in its place and well organized. Your video reminds me of the perfection demanded of us. Your attention to minute detail is obvious as is your knowledge and forethought put into this project. For instance you took the time to explain why reusing sheet metal lock washers is a bad idea and measuring the length of a seated stud is a worthwhile precaution In dealing with a minor detail. Last but not least the engine manual was at your elbow, this speaks most directly to your professionalism. There is no guessing when the manufacturers detailed instructions are at your finger tips. You separated yourself from other assembly videos merely by displaying the manual without apology. I'm signing up.
I haven't watched Mike M's work, but I doubt it could be more fastidious than this. This is clinical stuff. Thank you. Also thank you for the time frame to do all this. Far too often, I think, frustration sets in if it's not "going fast enough". Good work takes time.
They use studs on the bottom and bolts on the top because it just makes getting the trans mounted easier (and the starter)...usually while in the car. Volkswagen did the same thing for years. Your definitely on the right track swapping them out for studs, especially since you have it out and will probably put the trans and engine back in as one piece....I would assume anyways. Much much much better...especially when working with aluminum/magnesium. Very cool, good work! Looks like your doing everything the appropriate way with the arp hardware and using the mic (stretch gauge arp calls it) and so on to measure your “torque” values, you won’t regret it. Love how methodical you are as well with your cleaning and prep, an absolute must for a quality build. You don’t get to see older Porsche stuff too often. Thanks for sharing.
I had a 1972 911T Targa and I remember all those operations. I did the align bore myself, so hearing what you paid for it was a shock! Those stretch bolts are a lifesaver!
Great stuff and great editing. Thanks for making it! Also have watched all of Mike M's '67 restoration videos, and can't wait until he gets to the engine also.
I was in Denmark riding in a Porsche 911, and a Datsun 240Z passed us up like we were standing still, and they guy driving could not catch up with that car. It had a turbo installed. Once I got home, I purchased a 70 model Datsun 240Z, and It was one of the early models, it was really fast. No Porshe could keep up with me, and no 350 engine cars could either!!, it was very fun to drive!!!
@Dean Gibbons Yes, that person passed pretty fast. You were not there, and i was. I saw it with my own eyes, the driver of the Porsche did not even try to catch up with him.
Good grief, such a well designed engine for it's era. You have huge balls even taking on this rebuild yourself but I give huge kudos for doing it. Such precision and faffing around to make sure it is right, I'm sure it has all been worth it.
Great videos - can’t wait until you get it all back together and fired up! There’s no way I could tackle something like this, so next best thing is following someone who is braver than me!! V satisfying to rebuild your own classic 911 engine!
This is awesome. ! Helped rebuild Ford small blocks before , it was pretty fun. However this looks like wayy more fun. I've been bitten by the Porsche bug..! Great video..
I loop a rope through the rods to lift and place the crank in position. Makes it easy to control the placement. Good job with taking your time and detail in what you did. Most don't even attempt
Love watching this. Quality work. I am in the process of replacing the head studs and might even think about splitting the cases fter seeing this. Thank you!
Got here via Mike M's recommendation of your work, whose work I also admire greatly. Love what I see especially the modification of Brembos to your front axle. All good stuff, enjoying it greatly, keep up the good work. Thanks for the education. Thanks for the entertainment. Subscribed. Liked, and like.
kavs911: it just appeared in my recommended list. Lucky me, I love it! I typically watch a great many automotive restoration, barn find, and muscle car videos, and have been lucky enough to own a few myself. I’ve been searching for info on a few different German cars recently, so perhaps YTs wizardry recognized me as being someone who might like to see your vids. So far, they’re spot on.
Modify the flywheel bolt double hex socket. Remove the roll pin, extract the socket and shorten the allen key section. Remove 50mm from the socket end with a cutoff wheel. Reassemble without the roll pin because you wont be able to drill a new hole for it (hardened)
You need to have the ARP rod bolts the the rods before the machine shop resizes the big end of your rods!! Because of the extra clamping force that the ARP bolt provide your dimensions might change.
Thanks Bob! The machine shop torque's the rod bolts to spec when they hone them. The stretch and torque amounts are very similar. I think it's within spec.
You got kind of close to the crankshaft journals with that anaerobic sealant. I have known mechanics who accidentally glued cams and crankshafts by doing that. The hardened glue can also cause galling to the rotating parts. I usually just apply it around the bolt through holes at the center of the case, to prevent the Loctite from accidentally oozing into the crankshaft journals when the case halves are bolted together.
Wouldn’t using a wrench on the end of a torque wrench alter the lb reading? The little wrench would actually tighten the bolts too much because of leverage ?
I was about to post the same thing because Kavs keeps saying the torque reading out loud. With an extension on the torque wrench you have to use "maths" to figure out the new reading, but as long as he's basing it on bolt stretch, it's irrelevant. FYI, if you use the extension at 90 degrees to the wrench head, the reading will be accurate.
The wrench adapter that was being used while tightening the rod bolts would not increase torque f any thing the use of the wrench adapter setup would potentially lower the valve due to the possibility of the wrench flexing.
I noticed that when installing the head studs using opposing nuts that you used open ended wrenches to tighten the nuts. I would recommend using the box end to avoid spreading the open end wrench flats. Just a thought to save the tool as you can exert more force on the box end. For any instance where you can use the box end during exerted force I would never use the open end. Beautiful build.
Really well done videos Bob. I just did my first 911 rebuild a couple of years ago (a 2.7 race motor). 20+ hours of race time and it's still going strong. Your machinists, Ted, Jay, and Ollies are all top notch. Good luck with the rest of the build. Dave
Wayne the book is an amazing resource! Congratulations on putting all of that together! Hopefully you can see it in person at a future cars and coffee! Can I ask how you heard about the channel, I seem to have gathered a new audience recently?
You are doing or have done a great job. Just discovered your journey and a thoroughly enjoying it. What you are doing is aiming for perfection. Obviously perfection is never possible but by aiming for perfection you end up with a high quality professional level result. I am sure as you went along you could feel in your gut that it was progressing well because of your attention to detail and your controlled patient pace. I am an ex mechanic and am admiring your commitment to the task you have set yourself and your approach. :-)
Kav da Master, man I love ya style, your technique , never seen the rods connected to studs via rubber bands and really why wouldn't you do just that, I got so evolved , thanks Sir
I respect your personal choices about how you prepare your engine components for assembly. Those are your procedures, based on experience, patience, and caution. I used to think I was just being weird or a PITA, but I've learned there is nothing wrong with that. Thanks for posting this one of a kind video, sir.
FYI... if a component is undercut it is no longer standard. Cool video I love watching engines being put together. I would highly recommend coffee filters instead of your low lint rags.... ideally you want no lint. Coffee filters are super cheap and they work amazingly well. I'm surprised your machine work was so expensive. I've built many Volkswagen engines for racing and if they charge me what they charged you... well they wouldnt because I would never agree to it. Insanely overcharged
If you want the best shop then it costs. These engines seem to be expensive full stop. Can I ask how you heard about the channel, I seem to have gathered an new audience recently?
Great video and excellent communication skills catering for a diverse audience. It could perhaps be used as a pre-class teaching aid for apprentice mechanics on being organised, cleanliness and assembly review. It is great to use an internal mic for the bolt stretch. However, what was the base line measurement? (perhaps it was done I'm not sure) ARP have excellent qc standards and perhaps is not relevant in this case, but take a reading and with a fine sharpie write the + or - variation on the end of the bolt so it's there to reference immediately. This also mitigates the risk of losing data sheets. Just a tip. Excellent job and remember, do what you love and you won't work a day in your life. Looking forward to the next one.
