Engine Wear Metals After 16 Track Days 

agree on that, to 127%... only issue with that: most of the audience / people out there are looking for "fun" and "entertainment" and only few of them are seeking actual information... so the most popular channels are either absolute pro combining both, or way more likely, entertainer pretending doing technical stuff at their won. Sad, but not new to human beings (and being human)

No dumb music! Yes! So annoying when they do that over dramatic pretence. All for nothing but a simple answer at the end of the video.

Thank you.

I noticed that as well. Feel sorry for people who live in places where it snows.

My 22 year oil Fiat is not even close to having this kind of rust but I live in southern Greece and it never snows.

yeah i noticed it too, but he said "its still a baby"

@@xynostasos9022I’m not even close to having an STD, even though I never had sex. Your statement sounds like this. I heard cars in Italy and Greece get destroyed by accidents, never by rust

@@MarcusAntonius415 the cars in Greek islands have a tendency to rust badly. I've also heard many Germans that pressure wash the underside of their cars every day during the winter to avoid rust problems. The thing is modern cars are galvanized and should hold together for at least 8 years before rust signs appear. The fact that this Mazda has this much rust so early to me looks like poor metal quality.

Yes it does. I did swap the oil on mine once in 10k milles of trackday use.

True true. The earlier the model year is of the ND the higher the risk for transmission failure (gears in 2016/2017 models), or if too new (2022 and 2023) synchros issues. At lease these have higher changes of issues, but the synchro issues are independent of the track usage.

That would be quite interesting too, but IMO harder to conclude one way or the other if the track use affected the results since not nearly as many people analyze their gear oil, so there aren't as many results to compare it to. I'm not sure about these specifically, but as a very general rule of thumb, transmissions tend to wear out and fail before engines do.

Things rust it's inevitable. Mine has been rusting like that since 10 years ago and there's no important damage. It's not that fast of a process unless you're driving on salt lakes maybe lol. Trying to rust proof and remove rust all the time is just a massive time and money sink.

@@gamesmaster1060 excuse me, but thats a load of bollocks... if the underside of the car is that rusty after only a few years, you can imagine how it is going to look in another 5 years. if you plan on selling the car anyway, then whatever. but if you plan on driving the car for a longer time then taking 1000-2000 euros to preserve the car sound more like a good investement than a "money sink". its no secret that miatas suffer from rust issues, NA to NC it has been confirmed. in recent times the first few NDs are starting to fall victim to rust, and there is no reason why the ND would suffer a different fate than NA-NC in the future. Telling yourself that your car "has been like this for 10 years and its all sunflowers and sunshine" sounds alot like copium to me. the rust that you can directly see often isnt what causes non repairable damage; the bad rust starts for example on the inside of the frame, fenders, rocker panels. when you can see this rust its already to late, because only at this moment the car becomes a money sink if you choose to repair it...

@@PidseriaWinkleroni Ironic you say im coping when your the one that seems to be doing that. I have no reason to cope I am just saying that obvious signs of undercarriage rust happened a long time ago and had no problems. Maybe I will get problems later on but it would of took a long time to get there. Even longer for a car that isnt known for rusting issues

250k miles on my k20 in my integra and still brand new. Revving to over 9k on stock oil pump and valves and pretty much last 100k miles have been fast road or track miles. I think any manafacturer should be able to make an engine that wont break down from 30k miles 😆

Yes, I was disappointed but also not surprised to see the beginnings of the metal moth that MX5s have always had. I’d seriously accept a 20kg weight penalty on the car if only they rustproof the things to at least a half decent standard.

I'm shocked at how bad they are. I have a 1992 Mazda that looks almost brand new by comparison. But I live in a country with a mild climate and no salt on the roads

@@smithp573 I doubt it would even be 20kg. It's just cost saving

@@RedBatRacing It's the salt that wrecks everything.

@@user-sf7kl9uh7k Funny thing is that my 2020 came with some wax based rust proofing from factory. Car was sold in Germany, so it might be market dependent.

Thank you. I would like to but it's time that limits the videos.

According to the data sheet the oil I used is approved by: Ford, Volvo, Jaguar, Land Rover and Fiat. I also use mannol in my SEAT Leon, which apparently has VW 504/507 approval. Not had a problem with the oil yet, just seems like good value to me. Do you have experience with mannol being below quality?

@@RichardFanders if you look at the datasheet, it says "approval RECOMMENDATION" and then lists a bunch of OEM standards for oil. Now compare that to Comma XTech 5w30 for example, they list the OFFICIAL APPROVAL from Ford for a particular Ford standard, and they even provide a Ford letterheaded document that confirms that Ford approve that particular oil for that particular standard. Basically, any oil manufacturer can say that they have designed or blended their product with a particular OEM standard in mind, but the more expensive oils will actually have the product approved by that OEM. Getting it approved costs money. There is an argument that it only really matters for engines that are still under warranty, and I do sort of agree with that notion... You've done the testing and confirmed that this oil is perfectly fine, the only thing more interesting than that would be to do another test using a more premium oil that carries lots of official approvals to see if the used oil analysis shows anything different. I'm not hating on the Mannol stuff, I buy it in bulk for our family fleet, we just don't use it in the higher value cars for that extra peace of mind because they don't go through that manufacturer audit process. Btw they may have gone and got official approval for some of their oils now, they have many many varieties, I only confirmed the above for the particular oil used in your video!

I'm not sure if my bearings are made from copper though. Apparently it may be aluminium but I'm trying to find out.

@@RichardFanders the bearing shells are made of steel plated with copper and a second plating of lead/tin

Apparently from factory they can do 1.4 sustained lateral G and maintain oil pressure. No modifications needed for driving on track with road tyres. Only high temperature brake pads.

@@RichardFanders that's really excellent. Pulling a G laterally for any sustained period is really going some in a road car. Only would really need touching if you're going on slicks/really crazy semis then. Hope you're well man!

Hope you're well too. I think even British Touring Cars only peak over 1.4 G, if I was starting to get anywhere near that I would want a track prepared car with roll cage and harnesses and be in a position where I was less bothered about damaging the car as there is not much margin for error cornering with that level of force.

I've changed the gearbox and diff oil twice so far.

I assume it will suffer from carbon build up at some point but as I drive it hard on track it may be better. Time will tell. I would not use a catch can as changing the positive crankcase ventilation system may cause harm to the engine or affect how it runs. Also, it will likely have condensation issues.

It seems to be good quality so far.

I was thinking the same but I don't do as many miles in that now and I don't like leaving the oil longer than a year. When I used to do 18,000 mile oil changes, those changes occured every 7-9 months.

VW recommends up to 30000km intervals on their cars... modern oils are insanely resilient

@@lptomtom yes, but in the States they change oil every 3000 miles. Long live misinformation and fear.

😂

I don't have any experience racing but I have done a track day guide: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2uFktuZgws0.htmlsi=A6WwIVJkrusUzNzg

Just pick your track, check their calendar on their website and book a trackday/evening, it's that easy mate. No insurance required, just make sure your car is well serviced. I recently had a track evening at cadwell park in the wet. Cost 90 for track time, spent 50 quid on fuel, used no oil, used 1mm of tyres and brake pads Cars are meant to be used, send it

Nothing at the moment. I'm guessing it rusts from the inside also. But it is something I think about every so often.

​@@RichardFanders Alright 👍

I've sprayed my missus Focus with Hammerite affer having a gonat lose rust with a wire brush... it helped keep the rust off..

I only shift early if it helps me. I generally use all the revs.

Twice so for, about 18 months each time.

I've not seen a problem. I've always used 5W30 though. I assume the factory fill was 0W20.

High calcium and sulfate ash for direct injection high compression engine

@@mm-il8dg I have many friends who use full SAPS in their turbo DI engines without issue. Including this one. Absolutely zero LSPI.

@@DBravo29er you are right but it will increase the risk of lspi and intake valve deposit

@@mm-il8dg Not true at all. Porsche A40 is full SAPS, yet it's used in their TDI 3.0 991.2 & 992.1 motors. Zero issues with LSPI.

@@mm-il8dg Further, all MB229.5 oils are full SAPS. Blaming LSPI on SAPS/Calcium has not been born out by the data.

Mannol 5w30 API SN ACEA A5/B5

That's right.

Petrol will make the oil black.

I was comparing 0W20 with 5W30.

I always change mine cold!

That's a valid point.

After 10 mins with the engine off 99% of oil is returned to the sump

Valve springs, larger exhaust valves and i believe exhaust manifold runners have been updated beetween ND1 and ND2 Timing is also slightly different Mazda was in the hurry when ND 2.0 liter was released because they were not supposed to but they did due to american market, they would never buy only 1.5 liter Still, all version are great even if the 184 is arguably the one that is offering the best package

@@floriandugoli5923 That’s nice to know, thanks for the info. I’ve seen the Mazda3 2.0L be tuned upwards of 180, but I’d like to make mine last lol.

@@Rockito912 i don't know where you are living but you can safely push it to 200hp with good exhaust, remap and cat cams Full quality really matter on these engines Great car btw 👍🏻 With full bolt on i saw an ND184 with 231 horsepower on dyno, kinda cool !

Salt road daily driven MX5s have always had rust issues.

I've not had problems with this brand of oil. There has been a few comments about the brand on this video but I've not heard of anyone having a problem with it. I buy it as it's up to standard, is manufacturer approved and good value.

Yes, gets driven in all weathers and has been to the alps twice.