Hey thanks for this video and the previous one in this series! I also cut my intake boot using a razor blade (not taking the aviation snips advice), but I didn't go all the way through so we'll see how that works out. I just wanted to say that you're 95% there to fully porting this saw, and have all the skills, tools and know-how so if you'd like to discuss I'm happy to. I finished my 372 XP X-torq yesterday and am happy with the results.
Thanks man! I have done exactly what I wanted to do with that saw. Probably seems weird to many, but I'm not looking to increase intake or exhaust duration. I need to actually put it on eBay. I have a 2171 Cutters Edge that is my go-to saw for felling bigger timber, so I don't need the 2172. Was just a flip for me. Will make someone a great saw though. It pulls hard!
Very nice Few weeks ago I traded for a ported husky 365 special. Two nights ago I swapped a OEM Mahle cylinder and piston to it. Paid 100$ for used cylinder and 30$ new piston In going thru heat cycles as well. I tend to heat cycle it for damn near a whole tank. Rev it here and there
Im gonna have to do something with my 268xp. It is great for bucking but I got into a 30" Maple standing tree and had some power issues. I would like to get the 268 from Tinman
My 372xp x-torque runs great at 4500 ft but at 8600 ft where my land is, the saw feels week, even tuned well, like not even a ton more power than my ms250. Not sure if the x-torque suffers from elevation gain more than other designs. Do you think this approach to massaging the transfers, intake, and bumping comp should help for high elevation use? Thanks!
Saw sounds great! From what I have watched I think checking squish directly above the pin is recommended. I don't personally know if it makes any difference, but I believe the concern was that piston rock could change the reading. The guy on 2strokestuffing claims that .1mm squish for each mm of stroke is optimal. That works out to only .36mm for a 372xp. A little over .014 inch! I haven't seen anybody set a saw up even close to that tight. I imagine a larger squish is desirable on a work saw. Would be interesting to see what a tight saw would do though.
I can relate to oak and that’s an impressive saw. People that aren’t familiar with any oaks don’t appreciate what you’re accomplishing. Oak dried is impossible to drive a 16 penny nail in without bending, needs predrilling first.
Have been watching some of yours videos now, and has me wanting to try some things. I have a jred 2166. If I grind the center of the transfer cover out, cut the intake boot like in this video, and do a base gasket delete and muffler mod. How would I go about tuning the carb? Is it that easy to do all those mods and just do some minor tuning on the carb to be good to go?
Yeah. It's that easy. The carbs on these have limiter caps, so you'll need to find a good video on removing them, but yeah. Modify and tune. You can do it!
Don't know for sure. Will need to pit them against one another. What I can tell you is, the 2172 feels nice and torquey. I was really pulling on it and it just knuckled down and kept digging. I can also tell you it is slightly heavier. But I wouldn't hesitate to buy one if you couldn't find a non X-TORQ saw. This will be a solid saw for anyone looking.
You can, but you need to snip a couple spots on the non xtorq intake tube so you can rotate it slightly so the holes for the 2 bolts line up for the xtorq carb. And youll also have to use the xtorq air horn
@@RivaRider53 it was noticable, but nothing to brag about. I have only done this once with one saw that was stock and could have used new piston rings. So maybe there is more on the table yet.
@@novicelumberjack If it is a new version of the 372 xp, you should not exceed the revolutions 12,900 due to a manufacturing defect of the crankshafts and a heavy piston.
