Nice job. Not having an ultrasonic cleaner, I have soaked in old antifreeze in an old crock pot for a week or so. Heated is good. Lately I just dunk the whole engine in Dawn Ultra for a week or so. On an engine like this (no ball bearings), once free, you can just mount it and run it for a while. I use a covering heat gun for heating up the parts, as at 220-degrees, it can’t get so hot as to damage parts. Also for drying out ball bearings before loading them with oil. One caution on the antifreeze, it is flammable. Also, you do not want to use that old crock pot for food any more!
Hello, my friend. I have an O.S. Max III 15 R.C. engine I purchased at the Kadena AFB hobby shop while I was stationed in Okinawa in 1967. I paid $9.05 for it way back then. It's never been out of the box except to look at. In my 30s I had plans to build an aircraft to mount it on, but never got around to do it. In my 50s I was busy as well. In my 60s I was building mandolins and playing music, but I still have templates for aircraft wing ribs, so maybe some day..... Enjoy watching this Aussie bloke machine out the Titan .60 engine series, and your rebuild. Cheers and regards. Bob
Nice rebuild, thanks for sharing. I used to use Enya's back in the seventies and found them difficult on initial start up from new but great when run-in. Later moved on to the larger Fox engines which I am thinking of pulling out to display in a cabinet so this video will be helpful.
Piston and sleeve, don't try to remove all of the brown varnish from inside the sleeve and outside of piston. This is from castor oil. It builds up more as the piston and sleeve wear, actually helping to keep a good clearance. On an older well run engine removing all the varnish could cause a loss of compression. Also, on the sleeve, the higher port is the exhaust side, the lower port is the intake side.
I see this video is 4 years old but my engine has very similar markings 14:35, so I thought it was worth commenting. On mine the 'dremmel mark' has been caused by a metal fuel bung at the end of the filler hose, rubbing during flight. It's not a good idea as metal clanking as it can cause radio issues. It now has a plastic bung.
Glow fuel has methonol, an alcohol, which draws moisture from the air. It also contains Nitromethane, and that combines with the water to form a weak nitric acid, which is what corrodes bearings, iron pistons and sleeves. Best practice, after last run of the day, run all the fuel out of the engine. Try to restart, keep trying to restart until there is no popping at all. This is the same as you do with an outboard motor on a boat. Once all the fuel is exhausted, inject some oil, best is Marvel Mystery Oil or Marvel Air Tool Oil, into the intake and exhaust ports, turn the engine over to spread the oil. Next time you want to use it, remove the glow plug, spin it over to get any excess oil out to prevent hydraulic lock when starting. Put the plug back in, start as normal. Do not use 3-in-1 Oil. The kerosene in it evaporates leaving a gooey thick residue that eventually solidifies. Best storage oil is the Marvel.
That little engine probably was in 50 or more models over its life... I had a K&B .40 that broke when I struck the ground at a hundred miles an hour and that one engine was in at least 2 dozen airplanes.
Exactly; sometimes that is enough to get an old engine started. A little soak, rotate and flush (out). It even helps clean the outside of the crudded up dry oil. Great comment Sam.
Guys I need some help.I've got an Enya 09 but something is different about the muffler.it has a triangular groove in it were the muffler joins the engine.how is this going to work without the pressure nipple that helps pump the fuel.my father recently passed away so I have no one to ask.any help would be great.
Update:stupidly I had the wrong muffler.I found the right one but the sleeve that holds it on was missing.but after much messing around I made a new one, then discovered the threads r imperial,as the engine was built in the 60's.it's been a nightmare.I think I'm gonna stick with electric.
Ultrasonic cleaner with LAs totally awesome cleaner from Dollar Tree. then quick water bath to clean off residual cleaner and then warm 3 in 1 oil bath to prevent rust on iron parts. here is a video of OS 40 Rebuild: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-68Sihduag34.html
@@michaelsmutnick what’s the best cleaner liquid which can be used in ultrasonic cleaner?? Which ones do you recommend? I am new to this hence asking too many questions ☺️☺️☺️
Excellent restoration video. However the so-called crossflow engines (ridge on piston) are not in the same league as the SS (Schnuerle scavenge) Enya engines that came later. Having tried to fly a crossflow engine It seems that, in pursuit of power, they ended up using fairly extreme port timing with the result that if they drop out of their power band it can be a devil of a job to get them back in. Not ideal for rc. The SS engines give a lot more power and throttle much better.
I used LA totally awesome cleaner from Dollar tree in a ultrasonic cleaner. Purple power or amazing orange may work the same but I have not tried those yet
That has to be the one of the worsed strip down I've seen mate just dumping screws, useing multi grips to pull off carb, wow, if you are stripping down at least use a small containers to put in small parts??
