This is one of the best looking metallic finish videos on YT for these types of paints. There are other methods out there but they are used for much larger projects and use different paints. 👍
Back in the 60s there was a product called 'Metalskin' in the UK. It was a self adhesive very thin foil which you preferably cut the individual panels for your chosen model and applied them. It was a slow tedious process, but the results were amazing- !
@@Maax1200 I tried a medium range, transparent. It was easier to outdo the blue color that shows beneath, but I thought it looked too much like those old Kodachrome blue tinted photos. Just my opinion, but it didn't do it for me. I like the mix of black and smoke best, but that's just my preference.
Greetings! You mentioned trying to find ways to achieve variations in the aluminum coat. I did see one RU-vid modeler, although the name escapes me, who used something akin to a black based mottling technique. Before the main metal color was sprayed down they mottled the gloss black coat with a variant shade of metallic like a bright silver. I suppose it might work with a darker metal shade, such as darker steel or iron. Then sprayed down the main coat. The effect was impressive.
Excellent results. I’d like a deeper understanding of the polishing steps before you prime. It seems important and maybe a demonstration would have been nice in the video. What type of rags are used and how do you remove the polishes before priming? Thanks
In the Tamiya paint series I have a section on it. Publishing the second part today and hopefully up Monday morning (Dec 6th). I will also make a short video on plastic prep...its on the list.
i wonder if a thinned out floor wax airbrushed would be a good top coat, say, like a watered down type of "future floor wax"? would be an interesting challenge for paining and decals afterward.
Yeah, it has to be the really soft and cheap stuff, not a lot of fiber in it. Also needs a slow increase from barely touching it to rubbing it firm, and needs to be dry. That's the ONE good thing about living in the desert is things dry pretty fast.
Love your P-51 comment!!! My Great uncle Howard said if you wanted to take a pic to send home to your girl, you took it with a P-51...If you wanted to see her again, you went to work in a P-47!!! JUGS FOREVER!!!
I remember when I was young they had an aluminum paint that was specifically made to apply and let dry and then barnish it to a bright aluminum usually with cotton balls. Guess they must not have it now?
What about turtle wax to protect it? Might be a nightmare in the panel lines but maybe not. Might make pin wash hold better or be hidden all together with a pin wash. I'm going to try it on some small cheap kit. HK 1/32 b-17 maybe? Just kidding, can't even find one of those anymore anyway! I wonder if there are any stuck on those cargo ships in California?
Try first on scrap, but rather than use the cream which might leave a scum in the seam lines, mix up some Turtle Wax Wash. Test, Test, Test... before risking a model.
Just a thought,to get various aluminium finishes,could you not do some panels in black and others in smoke. Thank you,you have taken the fear out of doing a NMF out of me, THANK YOU from the UK.
You certainly can. The trick is to not put so many coats of the metal color over it to subdue the effect. I find that smoke, black, and very dark greys---- I have seen some use dark blues as well ----tend to do well (all gloss of course) and not be so different that they look distracting. What I like about the pigment rub is that it gives you some effect as you change angles.
Terry great video I am getting ready to do a 1:48 B-17G and want to try this method. Will test on a P-47 first. How long should I wait to apply decals and will decal set/sol ruin the finish?
Yes and no. Yes there are "OK" metal paints like Tamiya Bare Metal Silver, but it takes a series of light coats with buffing on each one....and even at that it just doesn't give a really convincing look. But still better than silver paint. I have also seen a couple guys out there do a decent job with Tamiya Silver Leaf, buffed with a Dremel type tool and buffing wheel at low speed but that takes a trained hand.
Find an old hand flys-pray pump and modify it with K&S tubing. Failing that see what is around with football pumps and garden pumps. DON'T BREATHE PAINT OR THINNER!!!!!!! FOLLOW SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS. Store away from children. Many of us cut our teeth on fly-sprays. If unsoldering the tank and soldering the K&S worries you, go as a visitor to a model railway club and ask for help. Model railway folk get accustomed to solder through wiring. For us it is a way of life. Best Wishes: Peter
Could there be a bonding between the polish and paint ? Do you have any kits that have been finished a long length of time ? Really looks great thanks for sharing ❤
Hi Jerry thanks for the comment and its a good question. A couple things to remember: 1) The plastic is polished, making it super smooth so yes bonding can be an issue. This is why I prefer a lacquer gloss base color beneath the metal. The lacquer base will chemically "bite" better and have better adherence than an acrylic. The metal (again, lacquer based metals as well) will then have a better seat to grip. 2) It is important to give a good washoff (I use alcohol) to get the glossy chemical in the polish off the plastic. I generally use alcohol, but Dawn and water also works for many. You will lose a little of the super shine because the flm is gone, but the gloss base will bring a shine right back for the meatl to utilize.
If you're taking about a chipping base under the color, yes if you seal with an acrylic clear. But its not really necessary. I just use LP11 or any other basic silver under colors for chipping.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 I was asking about the method you used to make the bare metal that reflective, if I used it on a gloss sea blue would it work or is there a different method you would recommend?
@@gamingwithjacobi8757 Well in honesty, metals are really the only thing I ever get to excited about making glossy. I'm more of a weathered/worn paint look guy. I have done a few experiments with glossing if you are interested. But due to the limitations of YT I can't show you much on what I have done with gloss colors. But if you send me your email I can message you directly and show you a few pictures too and you can see if its what you are looking to achieve. If its not in my YT account description, I have a generic yahoo account bacobaco6869@yahoo.com
For that highly polished black-colored wing at the beginning...that had paint on it right? So you polish the paint with the Flitz and finishing compound?
It depends. If its Airfix or Revell, I definitely polish the plastic first. Tamiya, sometimes. Hasegawa is usually OK by itself. Using GX2, it is shiny enough to not need a polish if the plastic is well prepared.
Hullo. I have done all of 1 and half models. my cuz got me into them lol. however the bug bit me pretty hard. so far ive done an hg: gundam the barbatos lupas rex and now doing rg: zero ew winged. HOWEVER. I got myself a Fighter jet from a book i read when i was little. An F-86 F SABRE "MIG KILLER" with the decals for Joseph C. McConnell Beauteous butch II. Do you recon this is the proper finish for that fighter? also i really wanna do an epic job on this. should i do a couple planes before i tackle this or gopher it. Awesome channel
Sorry for the late reply. For an F86, you can get away with pretty much anything. I have seen pictures of nice shiny ones and beat up wor ones as well. I always encourage people to try anything, all you can do is fail and failures make later successes. I had many failures along the way and I still bone one every once in a while now. Also, if you mess up, a paper towel and IPA (91% or stronger) will bring it off and you can start over.
That's about right. My bottle was older and a little thick, so I did a little thinner. For a nice new bottle you might not even need a 1/1 thin. But remember it was Mr. Color Metal Color MC218....not the Super Metallics. The Supers don't buff out as well, but they are more durable.
Do you recommend to assemble the whole aircraft then do your technique, or do you do major surfaces, ie fuselage, and wings separately then assemble? If the latter, do you fix seam lines then respray?
Wow Josef, that's a good question and changes depending on different things. I think it would be best for me to actually make a video on that, and I thank you in advance for the question because it is good subject material. But for now I will tell you that as general rule, I go in stages. Engine, cockpit and landing gear are done and painted individually. Then I go to the fuselage, wings and flight control surfaces (if separate). Then I address seams etc. Prime, find problem areas, fix again, prime again. Then paint, then attach the engine and landing gear.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 thanks for your reply! I'm very excited to see your next video! Metallic finishes are the bane of my modeling existence!!!! So many of my favorite aircraft are Metallic finishes...ugh!!! Please help!!!!
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 so you don't prime surface? I must admit your video has influenced me to try this out. I've picked spare MS.406 wings and started polishing them. First was dremel with polishing bit on slowest rpm possible. Then I started polishing with a piece of cotton dipped in a water with a tooth paste. The wing started reflecting LEDs from above my desk so you could see clearly each of them, it also reflected objects around. Then I've sprayed Vallejo black primer (gloss), the one dedicated for priming before metal colors, but it came satin at best. Other part I've sprayed with floor varnish (Pledge, Clear or whatever you have there equivalent), but it also ruined all shine.
@@52down Pretty much any clear coat will ruin it. I have not tried the Vallejo primer gloss, but I do know that Tamiya X1 is a good option if you don't have GX2. But the clear coats just messes things up, especially Future/Pledge. The key is the well polished plastic (which by the sounds of what you said, you got it right). Then just a quick wipe with IPA to get the polishing agents off to help the GX2 or X1 to stick, and then apply the metal. Then nothing, no clear coats. I have noticed that after several days the durability improved well. But you may take longer depending on where you live due to air temp, humidity etc.
Actually I just used cheap thin paper towels. But for better results try a cotton cloth like a T-shirt. Thicker paper towels may have rigid patterns and leave microscratches. The ones I used were very soft. An off-brand cheap kind.
I apply some super thin CA glue over the dried putty with a paintbrush and sand it before too long. That putty loves to drink paint. CA creates a good barrier.
