Phthalo blue is amazing!!! and so versitlile...it was my go to colour when my 5 year old lad wanted "sonic" blue for a kit build. The build is something for him to remember me by during the pandemic of 2020 when he is older. I also used it to restore and re finish a patrick eggle from 92, which turned out so good. Hats off to all you at crimson,...hopefully i will come do a course one day
I've literally just finished staining an sg that I've stripped and have been working on, and I can vouch for the fact that the purple stain is an amazing colour
Pure on camera chemistry! Rofl too funny! Ben really is a good sport! Stain is so superior to anything else on a guitar I just don't understand painting unless your budget is constrained to lesser woods. The effects achieved with stains look really remarkable!
That music...I know it's royalty free, but I still can't believe someone wrote that, performed it, mixed it, and - at no point during the process - thought to themselves: "You know....maybe I shouldn't send this out into the world"
Might be an idea to explain further, the principle of "double staining". I have done a couple of bodies, where on the first one i used black to accentuate the grain/figure. before applying the final colour, and it did indeed give a slightly "dirty" look to the final blue finish i applied, which i actually really liked. My next attempt was a sort of yellow to green burst. (Dubbed "Avocado" by a guitarist friend of mine!) which i started with a dark green (to sit into the grain, ...then sanded back to almost nothing, before applying the yellow, and shading in the green burst. (Would post pictures but obviously i can't here!). Thats the nice thing about water based dyes... you can treat them almost like watercolours in a painting.. and "smoosh" them around to get nice gradient effects. Think you should so a whole video on that sort of process alone!.
PS. I did this a few years ago, so this wasn't done with Crimson Stunning Stains. Just mixed up some aniline powder dyes with water to get the required hue. Bit hit or miss. Crimson have apparently done the hard work for you, already by creating the colours.
would this be how you would use black stain to maintain the wood texture while being completely black without getting a black painted polish look?... I imagine it'd be better to add layers for it to be completely black?
On the bottle it says „Do not breathe in vapours“. Doesn’t that mean it has to be applied outside? Or does that mean i shouldn’t breathe in the vapours when i use it to spray the stain?
What should I do if I have a can of stain but I wanna lower the intensity of its yellow... should I water it down with alchohol Forgot to say that the wood stain is alchohol based.... and I want a yellow blondie for a telecaster
I want good ol' BASIC BLUE. Now which one is it , Phtalo or Royal ? I am going to use it to make my own hues and colors with your Crimson Red and Yellow shots I already have. I appreciate your quick response. Thank you.
This might have already been covered in the video but can I mix stains before applying them to the guitar. Such as brown with a drop or two of black to darken it? I am building my first guitar
Up until the last minute, I thought you were using undiluted stains, then Ben used a concentrate so I guess the others were diluted preparations. Is there a recommended ratio of water to stain?
I'm prepping to do my first finish, and in my ignorance, I thought "the finer the grit, the better", so I sanded the body to 1200 grit. However I recently heard Christopher mention that you generally don't want to go any finer than 400 grit, otherwise the finish will not have as good a purchase on the wood. SO, do I sand the body back to 350? I plan on doing a solid black colour with crimson stain and oil finish.
Ben, are you aware of the gorgeous Blue colored Chapman ml3 tele. It’s kind of a turquoise color that has some hints of green in it. I have that guitar that is bare ash.. very light wood. I know it’s sealed and I’d have to sand it. However, would your dyes if mixed properly make that color. I’ve never seen a guitar that color in my life and I can’t imagine you not having seen it since it was in the first run of Chapman guitars and both companies being from the UK. Can you please help me possibly achieve this color if possible? It’s still made today although I think the color has changed some. I can’t find one of the originals that aren’t a lot more cash than the bare ash version I bought yesterday off Reverb.
So I’m trying to get a nice rich dark brown stain on a Spalding maple top for an explorer Would you recommend I mix the dark brown and orange together to get a nice rich stain I’m looking for a nice accented dark brown Rich would stay in for this guitar and then I’m going to finish it with a true oil
Not sure if it's been asked before. But I got a set of the shots and would like to know which ratio of dilution I would need to get the colour tones of the regular Stunnig Stains.
So no sealing the wood first, or? some short snappy instructions with less music may be more useful, perhaps? I have little patience with videos, I'm afraid, so the quicker the better, ha.
ive tried a water based stain before and i had huge problems with it raising the grain , how is this different ? love your content keep up the work guys .
I had this problem with my first batch of flamed maple picks. I think the answer is to damp the wood first to raise the grain, sand back, then apply stain. I'll try this on the next batch.
Well, yes. Water based will indeed raise the grain. Have done a couple of "burst" finishes to guitar bodies with water based stains, but found that once it all dried out thoroughly, all i had to do was lightly sand back with a fine (think it was 400 grit) paper to give a nice finish. This was on figured maple, so able to get a nice smooth finish without any pore filling etc.
hey, i'm going to stain a guitar body with your cherry red stain. In one of your demonstrations you say to apply it sand down the grain which will have raised after its cured. how long does it take that stain to cure?
I use an old t-shirt as an applicator. Get a kitchen sponge and put in in the middle of a square of t-shirt material then bunch it up to make a ball of an applicator. Twist the excess T-shirt to make the ball nice and firm. It works really well. Tissue paper isn't great - I've used it a few times in a hurry and always make a mess as the paper disintegrates.
I have done this with paper towels. Tissue would most likely be too soft. The very slightly abrasive quality of paper towels seems to help. at least in my experience
and i found i used a sort of hybrid "with and against" the grain technique, as i was trying to achieve a sort of burst finish, so was going with the contours of the body, not the grain of the wood.
Hai, My (bass)wood is a bit yellowish. Staining it with blue dey makes it greenish. I bleachd the wood with hydrogen peroxide, Diluted bleach and ammonia. Iwant a pure blue. Greetings, Rob
