Hey captain Joe, im testing out tomorrow for my captains test. Just started a 1973 22ft mako. I loving you vidoes and the well thought out approach. Learning alot and plan to implement your knowledge.
First comment on the channel, thank you for putting all of your videos out there! I have already watched a few of the series and have another comment to add to the mold building series. You apologized for the sound of the birds, and I had to pause the video (in the middle of making tacos for the family on Thursday night) to say please don’t apologize for the birds. They transport us (at least me) into your shop and make me feel like I’m getting to watch over your shoulder. I love that you don’t have music overlays and that we get to hear the birds, and hear about the bugs you deal with, and hear the sounds of the tools! I think part of what sets you apart for me is that we get to see the “boring stuff”, the act of mixing without a cut scene. This is what folks wanting to learn need to see and get with your videos. Thank you so much for letting us into your shop and coming along with you.
Wow, thank you so much! I appreciate you taking the time to comment on the videos, and letting me know what you enjoy about the channel! Sometimes you don't know exactly what people are going to like, and your feedback helps me a lot. Birds, bugs and all I will try my best to stick with our current formula, and keep putting out content that you all will enjoy!
Looking great Captain Joe. You are doing a great job explaining the detailed process. You got a winning team with Logan and Mark. Y’all are knocking it out of the park!
That's incredible, no one in the industry builds a boat that is stout and tough anymore. Yours is both of those things, and so much more, great instruction.
Thanks so much! We want this boat to be trouble free for a long time, Glad You like the way we are putting Her together. Appreciate You watching and commenting!
Thank you again Captain. I am trying to figure out a bulkhead door/hatch that is water tight in case of collision for my 1991 Catana 48R. Not sure how many people need such a thing but if you got a chance to cover such an animal, that would be great. Again, mucho gracias.
A watertight collision bulkhead hatch made from fiberglass could be a tricky one. You might want to consider a aluminum hatch made for that application. I believe Bomar or Vetus might be a couple companies that make those. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Glad I found your channel. Getting ready to work on my 1976 SC20 again. I live in Cape Coral and lost my other boat to hurricane Ian. I can't wait to get back on the water and fish again. Just sub to your channel. Thank you show us your work.
Sorry to hear You lost your boat to Hurricane Ian, that's terrible! My hometown was hit by hurricane Sally back in 2020, and Ivan a few years before that. Luckily our home and boat didn't have any major damage. I have always liked the classic Seacrafts. I have owned a 20 and a 23 myself, they are awesome boats! Wish you the best with your project, Thanks for watching and subbing!
I’m building coosa hatches right now. How big of a gap in between the floor panel and the hatch do you cut??? Also I was told one layer of 1708 on bottom and two on top is strong enough for a boat floor. Is that what you recommend??
First time watching, your craftsmanship and attention to detail is barnone, I am definitely subscribing in hopes of learning some new things. Are you using poly or epoxy on your coosa with chop strand? I know that hinge hurt like hell! Also I see you used vinylester to bond the top deck I always thought epoxy was superior when bonding.
Thanks so much for watching! We are using poly, but it is a very high quality iso resin vs just your standard laminating resin. Yep, that hinge did NOT feel good! Epoxy is very good at bonding, and has its place, but for this application the vinylester is plenty strong. Especially since it is screwed and glassed on both sides. Thanks again, and welcome to the channel!
Awesome, glad to help! We used a lot of 3M high strength vinyl ester filler to stick parts in place prier to glassing. Any quality filler with short strand fibers can work good for this. We have been using this technique for years with lots of success. There is a video or two in the boatbuilding series that shows us using that method in detail. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Hello Captain Joe. I just had my Transom, Stringer's, and deck all done with Coosa. My question is can i just paint over everything with Gelcoat and done or do i need to do something else first? Thank you in advance.
Just make sure the surface is clean and dry, I like temps to be between 60 and 80 degrees for gelcoat applications, and a light sanding on the fiberglass surface is not a bad idea. hope this helps, and good luck with your project!
hey man for starters im also captan joe in the making lol. i have been a comercial fisherman my entire life and im venturing out to build my own boat to run charters out of,,, i have a 23 ft skiff that I am replacing the flore in . i have all the sanding finished and i was wondering if i plan to fill the flore with foam should i do it before of after i secure the new flore in the boat . also what the best way to secure the new decking down to the stringers ??????? ps im from Louisiana !)
That's cool man! good to hear from you. Pour-in 2 part foam can be very tricky. If you do not pour enough you will have voids in the floor. If you pour in too much you can lift the floor up! Most factories have special guns that allow them to do a better job. I would lean towards either pouring the foam in before you install the floor, or consider making the area under the floor a series of watertight compartments. It is not really a super easy, one way is always the best kind of answer. As far as fasteners go, we always use stainless steel screws in the 21/2 to 3-inch range. I always run a bead of 3m 5200 on top of the stringer before screwing the panel down. If you look back on some of our older boat-building videos, you can see the process we used. Hope this answers some of your questions and good luck with your project
I have used Divinicell before with good results, but not in this exact application. You are right, the Coosa is stronger in its unglassed state. This boat we are building will be in the charter business, so it has to be extra tough. If weight is a high priority, I think you could use Divinicell, but I would use more glass than we did on the Coosa. Probably 2 layers of 1708 on each side, finished with mat. Also not a bad idea to just make a test panel, and see if you are happy with the strength, weight etc. Hope this helps! Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching!
Where do you find your Xhosa? You have a pretty penny and all thatGetting ready to put stringers in a boat just thought maybe you had a cheaper place to get it
I buy it from advanced plastics in Elberta Alabama. Composites one should also carry it, as well as Boat outfitters. I do get a discount from advanced because we have bought so much. Hope that helps, good luck with your project. Thanks for watching!
