So my BEST BIT OF ADVICE that I picked up from your vids is that one with Kelly at Karamas - one/two strokes and he's into the wave! I've used that A LOT with GREAT success! It's ALL about being in the right position, spotting the wave you want early on then WAITING for it to come to you - GOLD! I've made loads of critical drops with that approach. Happy Days...
mine aswell. This totally changed my surfing. Before I was always scrambling to catch a wave and didnt understand you didn't need much effort if you're in the right spot
I'm 48 and been surfing since 12 been on many trips and would say I'm close to advanced.Im a ex national bodybuilder I weigh 215lbs and 5'9.Weight definitely matters when it comes to liters.Without enough float you struggle to paddle catch waves and get true speed by pumping the board.Im in nj so we're always in suits.With my winter gear I'm a extra 20lbs.So guys reading this I ride anywhere from 40-45 liters depending on waves and time of year.Thanks hope this helps.
Volume Calculator: Beginner surfer; Volume SHOULD be a minimum of 45% of the rider's weight in litres, e.g. if the rider weighs 100kg then volume should be a minimum of 45 litres. Also, the rider's volume range SHOULD begin at 45 litres but the rider can ride boards with larger litre-age, e.g. if the rider weighs 100kg then the rider can ride any board starting at 45 litres as the bottom end of the rider's range up to the largest volume sized board possible. Intermediate surfer; Volume SHOULD be a minimum of 38% of the rider's weight in litres e.g. if the rider weighs 100kg then volume should be a minimum of 38 litres. Also, the rider's volume range SHOULD begin at 38 litres but the rider can ride boards with larger litre-age, e.g. if the rider weighs 100kg then the rider can ride any board starting at 38 litres as the bottom end of the rider's range up to the largest volume sized board possible. Advanced surfer; Volume CAN be 38% or less than the rider's weight in litres but an ideal litre percentage would be 36% of the riders weight in litres, e.g. if the rider weighs 100kg then volume can be 38 litres but 36 litres would be ideal. Also, the rider's volume range CAN begin at 36 litres but the rider can ride boards with larger litre-age, e.g. if the rider weighs 100kg then the rider can ride any board starting with 36 litres as the bottom end of the rider's range up to the largest volume sized board possible. Beginner = learning to paddle, learning to pop up, learning to catch unbroken waves, can't turn the board. Intermediate = can paddle onto unbroken waves, can pop up with ease, can turn the board. Advanced = can catch and carve any wave in any condition with ease. *Research what pro-surfers ride in competitions you will discover that their quiver of boards are in a range of volume that they prefer even though the length, width and thickness may vary from board to board. The dimensions of their boards may vary according to the wave conditions they're experiencing at any given competition (think of golf i.e. putter vs a 9 iron, when would you use which?) but the volume of each board will be within their preferred range.
Why is this the first time in 24 years i have never heard a shaper speak of foot size with relation to tail block or width. It makes so much sense. Clayton is the goat!!! Thanks so much. I have been binge watching all your videos
I think we all wish we could have a surf coach but I can’t afford one and I don’t have time to take surfing that seriously. I do appreciate these videos as it gives me things to think about to Improve.
I don't think anything has demonstrated my ignorance of surfboard design than when I shaped my own boards! 😂 Totally worth it though, changed my outlook on what I wanted in a board.
Q: Clayton '[In the UK] When the waves do come are they big, are they small, are they short and dumpy, are they long and fat?' A: Yes. UK is insanely geographically diverse, and also gets a whole heap of conditions, from triple overhead clean 18s period, to (more often) waist high, weak, cross shore. And we have reefs, points, river mouths, beaches, flat slate barrells, and sharp lumpy granite slabs. And you're going to have week- 2 week gaps when the winds are howling on shore, or the swell is completely flat. And don't even talk about summer. That's what wave pools for. I get the guys point, such a massive variety for a small island.
"Lean off the bottom, twist off the top". Dankie. I'm surfing a 8ft foamie and I can bottom turn easily but I'm stuggling to turn off the lip (likely cause I'm trying to lean opposite again). I can make drawn out s turns but looking to get tighter turns. We dont often get good conditions for my short board (6ft10) so hopefully the new wave pool in Edinburgh can help speed up my progression.. (surfing St. Andrews Scotland mostly).
I would just point that the physics of a wave double the height would be very different and non-linear so doubling the board may theoretically fit into the curve in the same way, but the power of the wave, and its response to bathymetry and wind would be very different. So doubling the board wouldn't work equally as well.
Two words, Reynolds number. Water craft don't scale just as aircraft don't scale. Boeing 747 doesn't look like a bird and a bird doesn't look like a bee. The only consistent factor for all surfers at any one time is the speed of the wave. So big heavy surfers need more plaining surface and more concave than smaller lighter surfers. Stability is added with width. Sorry about your hands. Hope they improve with the surgery.
Surfboards today remind me of British Navy ships during the Age of Sail. Everything was sized according to a rigorous system of "scantlings" and rope diameters so that the proportions were generally consistent with increased length and displacement. But smaller ships were of course stiffer, stronger and much more manuverable. The ocean stays the same. The forces on a larger ship were radically greater. But it worked more or less lacking any sophisticated science.
Love this video. I totally agree about the "coke bottle" EPS analogy and I haven't overcome it. How did you [Clayton] over come this? Did you just go for lower volume, thinner EPS boards to get that "in wave" not "on-top of wave" feeling? - I suppose I have ridden nothing but an off-the-shelf EPS and the chances are that the majority that are available 2nd hand actually have too much volume for me. Funny because I remember the Salomon S-core which was almost like the first EPS board (quite liked the S-core, but it was classically shaped and narrow); then the early FireWires which I didn't like at all (like a coke bottle). Being a small person, all that extra volume innovation seemed to benefit the big guys, but the little people like me just wanted a narrow, sort of heavy/grounded PU board... and I still do, but I am trying to like EPS boards! - They are a little bit more resiliant to travelling for sure! 🤣
I really like the content of this channel but don't like how long every video is to convey the information. Would be cool if you guys could figure out a short format with the same nuggets shared
Nice video, thanks for sharing all these insights! I’m surfing for about 10 years now, still have to learn a lot but I have a good wave count (even in crowded line ups) and good speed and basic maneuvers. However, I haven’t really figured out which volume works best for me. I love my christenson fish 5’6 with 32 L, but , for wherever reason, many times I had better sessions with my Hypto krypto (5’6, 28 L), even in small surf - 2 to 4 foot, mostly beach break. Any ideas why and what do you guys recommend for the future? Smaller/thinner boards? I’m 38, 5’6, barely 70 kg and quite fit. Surfing about 90-100 days per year Thnx
I'm late to the party here but I think you cannot linearly scale a board's dimensions - imagine doubling the length of each side of a cube. A bit of maths shows that the volume now is 8 times what is was, not double !
No , If you double size of person and board and wave the water density , speed of falling water gravity reminds the same, Sane , a 4 foot person dropping in on a 4 foot wave would take near 1/2 the time as a 8 foot man dropping into an 8 foot wave.
So heres a board related question I have. To start im 5'11" 155 lbs. So right now I have a sharpeye 77 at 5'9", its in my liter range at 25.5 liters but its shorter than they recommend that model be ridden. My issue is that in order to get my volume in a 5'11" it would get too thin and narrow i feel. Is that true or should i go up a few inches?
Hi, I've been following this channel since last year and everything in the videos has always been spectacular. The sessions are great, the quality is fantastic... this channel is absolutely brilliant and you helped me a lot with the majority of my curiosities about surfing, thank you so much. Anyway, I would like to make a suggestion (if it's not a problem): I'm convinced that you can add a really funny video on your channel to show some of the funniest things happened while surfing, it can be something like a "oops and bloopers" compilation. For example, you could make a compilation of all of the moments where some surfers get "caught" on video while peeing in the water or in their wetsuit (my uncle relieved himself in a surfing session and that was hilarious, he always says there are 2 types of surfers and swimmers: those who pee in the water and in their wetsuit and those who lie), what do you think? I'd be so so happy to watch it, let me know, bye!
There is a lot happening in the background Emmanuel, we are aware of the importance of having Ant on. Someone has to run the show, We would like to have more people on helping with everything that involves running this, but for now you gotta have to get used to it.
Without ant watching his phone, there would be no show. Each time he is watching his phone, Ant is adding fuel to the conversation. He is also answering people's questions. I think that is why this show is so unique...
To be honest Ant is only important if he engages with you and gets the nuggets of gold from you. People watch the videos to learn from Clay. If Ant wants to be part of it, great but pick the job he will be doing… he is either the questionner or the tech guy… but he can’t be both. And if he needs to be both, then have two cameras: one on the two of you and one on just Clay. Then when Ant needs to do his thing, he can ask Clay a question and then Clay can answer that question directly to the camera so he is looking at us. But to have Clay answer a question looking at Ant scrolling on his to look for a Facebook post that nobody cares, I am not sure that is what your audience wants. Just giving friendly feedback guys and trying to help. Feel free to delete my comments as I by no means want to have a negative impact on the great content you provide. Clayton is the main attraction and the show should be designed to make him shine. I hope this helps.
Asking for a friend. Would an 11 stone 50 yo person surfing a boxy railed 5’10 31.3 litre round tail mini ghost have trouble sinking the rail? I’ve got a 6’1 ghost regular dims and a 5’5 seaside both have 31.5 litres. I recently tried an old daily driver board with 29.5 litres I used to ride and found it tricky. Perhaps a less boxy railed 5’11 shadow XL would be better? It’s a toss up between the two for me.
I agree i used to ride an Js monsta had got some many complaints about my surfing then I went to the trending hybrids recently need to go back to HPSB.
I’ve purchased 33ish boards since the start of 2020 - crazy how they all bring different experiences.. 7/3/24 x NPJ Duo Sting x 6’10 x 43L x $550 x 28/3/24 x Twin Keel Fish 7’2 x N/A x $200 x $450 x $250 15/2/24 x McTavish SUP x 10’0 x 160L x $500 x $550 x $50 27/12/23 x Stuart Pantera x 6’2 x 37L x $400 x $380 x $20 14/10/23 x Stuart Pantera x 6’0 x 35L x $400 x $450 x $50 1/7/22 x Lost Mayhem V3 x 6’1 x 36L x $150 x $180 x $30 37L 6’2 Lost Mayhem V3 Rocket x LOST 35L 6’4 DHD DX1 31L “X Bender” Surf Stuart 6’0 39L ”MP3“ Pride-More Mark 6’4 “Noiz White” HS 5’10 27L ”Bam Bam“ JR 5’10 36L Fish ”Hendrix“ AQSS 6’0 ”Length-Mid Miami“ Surf Stuart 7’2 ”Elite-Pro“ Surf Stuart 7’4 ”Gun Big“ NSD 7’2 Thruster Performance Morris 7’2 Funboard ”Pinger The“ Pipedream 6’7 Performance Gun Surf Big 7’10 Mal Mini ”Elite-Pro“ Surf Stuart ”6’7 Fish ”Chase Astral“ Diverse ”8’5 Fish Softstick Softlite ”2’5 Thruster Performance ”Diamond Black“ DHD ”8’6 420$ / 44L ”0.4 FX“ Stuart ”4’6 Fish ”Chicken Bin“ BoardCulture ”10’5 Gun Big ”FX“ Surf Stuart ”10’6 Shortboard Stacey P ”10’6 Funboard Custom Goodtime ”0’7 Funboard Custom Goodtime ”0’7 Shortboard ”GoldDigger“ Sideways ”6’6 Funboard ”2 Bean Eco“ Vessel ”6’6 Longboard ”Log Vintage“ AQSS 9’6 Shortboard ”Delta“ Vessel 6’4 20.1.2 | Funboard ”Salient“ AQSS 7’6
It really is very distracting to have one person checking their phone or laptop while being talked to. I know he's checking comments/posts/whatever, but have someone else do that (either on or off screen), it makes it feel like Clayton's info is uninteresting and boring (which is not!). Just my two cents, love the show.
I’ve surfed & sold boards since 2020- every board brings a new experience, yew. 7/3/24 x NPJ Duo Sting x 6’10 x 43L x $550 x 28/3/24 x Twin Keel Fish 7’2 x N/A x $200 x $450 x $250 15/2/24 x McTavish SUP x 10’0 x 160L x $500 x $550 x $50 27/12/23 x Stuart Pantera x 6’2 x 37L x $400 x $380 x $20 14/10/23 x Stuart Pantera x 6’0 x 35L x $400 x $450 x $50 1/7/22 x Lost Mayhem V3 x 6’1 x 36L x $150 x $180 x $30 37L 6’2 Lost Mayhem V3 Rocket x LOST 35L 6’4 DHD DX1 31L “X Bender” Surf Stuart 6’0 39L ”MP3“ Pride-More Mark 6’4 “Noiz White” HS 5’10 27L ”Bam Bam“ JR 5’10 36L Fish ”Hendrix“ AQSS 6’0 ”Length-Mid Miami“ Surf Stuart 7’2 ”Elite-Pro“ Surf Stuart 7’4 ”Gun Big“ NSD 7’2 Thruster Performance Morris 7’2 Funboard ”Pinger The“ Pipedream 6’7 Performance Gun Surf Big 7’10 Mal Mini ”Elite-Pro“ Surf Stuart ”6’7 Fish ”Chase Astral“ Diverse ”8’5 Fish Softstick Softlite ”2’5 Thruster Performance ”Diamond Black“ DHD ”8’6 420$ / 44L ”0.4 FX“ Stuart ”4’6 Fish ”Chicken Bin“ BoardCulture ”10’5 Gun Big ”FX“ Surf Stuart ”10’6 Shortboard Stacey P ”10’6 Funboard Custom Goodtime ”0’7 Funboard Custom Goodtime ”0’7 Shortboard ”GoldDigger“ Sideways ”6’6 Funboard ”2 Bean Eco“ Vessel ”6’6 Longboard ”Log Vintage“ AQSS 9’6 Shortboard ”Delta“ Vessel 6’4 20.1.2 | Funboard ”Salient“ AQSS 7’6
