When drilling plexi glass. Use an old drill bit and grind the sharp edges off the tip. Taper the bit or use a unibit. I used to drill windows for helicopters. Thats what we’d do. They’re come with a drill bit or we’d make them.
I was going to suggest a step (Unibit) drill as well. Their single cutting surface and straight flute stops them being pulled into the job. The way he did a pilot hole is not a good idea either, just makes it easier to grab when the point of the size drill has nothing to offer resistance against.
Wouldn't use Perspex (acrylic) for this application, too brittle. Polycarbonate would be a more durable solution. Recently cut and drilled 10mm perspex for a base for a handwired valve amp, drilled and countersunk the holes with bradpoint bits, and a standard countersink, but I know this will not be subject to the same stress as a neck plate, I would have used inset bushes for this guitar. Recessed plate is now a necessity.
Perspex is prone to cracking, when pressure forces (like those caused by screws) are applied. The countersunk head screw may increase this danger. I'm not sure the Perspex is the right choice for the Neck Plate. But besides my concerns, the plate looks absolutely stunning with all the polishing done!
@@andrewj3372 I've worked with both. Polycarbonate has similar problems when its used in such a situation. What could probably work are ferrules that lead the forces from the Screwheads to the threads
@@Craftlngo Hmm, are you sure it was polycarbonate that you used? It's a lot more "chewy" and doesn't crack easily if at all, in complete contrast to acrylic.
@@timangus true, it is not as brittle as perspex but like all plastics it tends to flow under stress. It deforms, can build cracks and it will losen the screw joint of neck and body in the long-term.
I have enjoyed watching your Kauri wood guitar being made! A friend of mine from the US made a fiddle from Kauri wood. He has made fiddles, acoustic guitars mandolins and even Ukes. When I first saw the fiddle finished. I was in Naperville, Illinois at a Bluegrass Festival. I was amazed by the fiddle. ( I do not play fiddle either). The price was very high, and I asked why? He told me about the wood. I began to understand how very special the Kauri wood was and is. He sold the fiddle a few years later to Rhinda Vincent of Ronda Vincent and the Rage. The cost was about 1/2 of what it was 3 years earlier. She bought it for use in recording only. The maker name is Martin Brunkalla from Manteo, Illinois.
The gloss and the colour scream the ‘70s to me in the best possible way. Like it would be a young Cat Stevens acoustasonic. I’m not sure why; Not that it matters - I LOVE IT.
Looks beautiful. I dont like perspex for this application. Cracks easily and looks good for a short time but usually ends up getting scratched every time its touched.
Hi Ben, I love this series, your ability to bring out the beauty of both the wood and the instrument is amazing. I wanted to put up my hand and say that I too wish to smelt down scrap metal and make guitars out of the recovered material. I would love to chat more about what you could do to get that started and some fun videos to watch about how others have smelted down scrap for the fun of it. Also, Hand Tool Only Build when?!?!?
i drill plastic and some wood with a pointy router bit, usually 1/4 inch size, because yeah, i've shattered the plastic casing on a casio keyboard and split a guitar headstock in half trying to use regular drill bits. somehow the router bit is gentle enough, probably because it's made for cutting more sideways. also, counter sink bits are safer to materials.
Your attention to detail is so admirable. I am in a completely other field (cybersecurity), but I’ve learned a lot with this little glimpse into your amazing artistic creations.
Make the neck plate so it is flush with the body. A smooth surface on the back is definitely preferred to something that could catch on your clothing. Ben I love the fact that you relish in your humanity and the errors that come with being a fallible being that accepts mistakes with GRACE and shows the corrections needed to fix them.
Its funny how, in some guitar circles, Kauri wood is known by its latin family name "agathis", and is thought of as a budget or less desirable tonewood. Personally I don't much subscribe to the whole tonewoods-in-electric-guitars debate (or snobbery, some may say!), and have worked with swamp kauri myself.
@@crtified1001 I think there's some difference between the cheap agathis on a budget superstrat, and ancient swamp aged NZ agathis. But it also reflects on how different guitars are built and used. My first guitar was an agathis bodied Yamaha, and it was trash out of the box. The strap nuts constantly fell out, the pickup and neck pockets broke into each other and the brittle PE finish chunked off and crumpled into the wood as soon as look at it. The Alder and Poplar on my Squiers are much harder, so even though the routes are even more aggressive the alder bodies have survived with little more than a few dents for 23 years. My Yamaha barely survived one. If the agathis body was instead used for a Mustang body, with angled fit-routed cavities and much less empty space; and then finished with a less brittle finish that wouldn't shatter as easily, it would work better. Nothing to do with "tone" wood, everything to do with structural integrity.
@@inthestudyYou note there's a range of variation or quality between the different types of agathis wood, and this is true. As I mentioned, I've worked with swamp kauri - I have a locally-sourced piece on my workbench as a guitar body right now, as I'm from NZ. And the fact is that the moniker "ancient swamp" doesn't automatically imbue any particularly notable qualities from a guitar body point-of-view, over and above "non ancient swamp" kauri. *A rare and particularly nice, figured specimen* of ancient swamp kauri can be pretty special, sure, as is the case with many species of guitar wood. But more commonly, I can source cheap, authentic (~US$50) "ancient swamp kauri" blanks that are quite pedestrian except in name, and which would be entirely indistinguishable to a layperson. This reasoning also applies to the "cheap superstrat agathis", as in fact that cheap superstrat agathis is used in a variety of superstrats ranging from the ultra-cheap to the signature-model virtuoso (e.g. Satriani, Bettencourt). All of which goes to show what a significant part reputation can play in our judgement of a guitar and its materials.
Hi Ben. The Neck Plate should Be made out of Brass and add the Crimson Logo on it. With Plastic you will not be able to have enough pressure on the Screws to Hold the Neck tight. Copper plate would be Cool too. How is the 4X4 post Guitar 🎸 doing? Getting Dusty?
When you used the automatic center punch, on acrylic, I had a scary feeling what was coming next. I wasn’t wrong. 😂 Acrylic glass will get you every time.
I feel uncomfortable putting screws on acrylic if they are going to be under much pressure, worse into countersunk holes. I think he's created a no-win (loose neck or cracked acrylic) and I wonder if he will change his mind. All I can think of is stainless steel and getting it electropolished.
@@rasputinsbeard3899 The easiest material I guess, if he's happy with the aesthetics. I think he said the pickup will be a steel finish, hence my suggestion. It's harder work to shape stainless steel, but this is a convex shape which helps, so a bench grinder gets the rough cut fairly quickly, and maybe he'd take a detour into home electropolishing (🤣). I think brass would look good with that wood, and I'd maybe think of using a brass plate and changing to a brass pickup. One only has to consider why neck plates are used in the first place, and why we usually make load-spreading washers/plates out of metal.
I agree. I worked with plastic for a long time in a previous career. That shits gonna snap the first time the owner touches one of those screws. Personally I like to omit the neck plate entirely and go with counter sunk metal ferrules sank into the body. I do like his idea of the threaded bushings and using actual bolts instead of wood screws. That’s in my plans for my next build.
As soon as you drilled the first hole, I thought Perspex was not a great choice. I think a copper or bronze plate could look nice. Not sure if it would clash with the frets and tuners though. An oil rubbed bronze with the Crimson logo engraved would be nice.
Gorgeous instrument, outstanding, thank God for no texture, burst, flames, relic, stains, colour, glitter, mate finish, etc, on this guitar build, just that natural, beautiful, outstanding wood, craftsmanship, care and attention. Cheers and congratulations to you Ben and the new proud owner.
I incorporated inserts and countersunk bolts in a guitar i designed and had made for me back in ‘89. First time i had known it to be done, luthier was the late Bob Whiles from Aldridge, B’ham.
There was a moment there when the facial expression suggested that the words "we have a..." would be followed by the word "problem". Much relief all round.
Hi Be, love the look of the perspex but i'm a bit worried about the brittle failure mode of it. Maybe you should spread the load with larger head screws or cup washers...
My first thoughts on the neck plate was a polished brass one would compliment the wood colour and finish but have to admit that acrylic one looks nice , I do wonder about the longevity though.
Having worked for over 40 yrs with Poly Perspex and every other kind of Plexi I can almost guarantee it will crack sooner than later , when I saw this first. I checked it wasn't April 1st ! I Would have gone with a Skeleton neck plate to see the wood as that is the organic beauty .Acrylic though ? and for the Trem block ! He is serious Sherlie :)
This is the reason I have been watching your videos for a lot of years, the attention to detail you put in to them. If I ever come into money you would be the first person I would go too for a custom guitar making 😊 I think you should Ingrave a description of what the guitar is made of on that perspex plate on the back.
The Kauri , aka The Albatross... Ive been following this build from day one , feels like about 42000 years ago 😂 , I truly doth my hat to you Sir Ben of Crimson ! Never before have so many hurdles been overcome by so few for so many , an attritious build that deserves a golden medallion!🏅 Looking forward to the end results x
IIRC the trick to drilling holes into acrylic using standard drill bits is to use the dullest drill bit you have - smash that metal drill bit into concrete and you're good to go. Otherwise the sharp edge will catch and shatter the plastic.
It’s great to see the fender still being used. When you’ve spent the series calling it a donor it felt wrong that it was going to be incomplete and unplayable even if for a much more stunning build
I have my Dad's early 1960s Stanley hand drill which I recently cleaned up and use. I know what you mean about using one! When it's my time to go I'll bequeath it to my eldest nephew for use in his shed. I like the smoked acrylic neckplate, and a round of applause for polishing the inside of the countersunk holes, which will only ever be seen very rarely after the guitar's finished! It's the 'I know it's there' syndrome. And the assembled so far guitar looks lovely, all those curves around the neck joint!
Ben. Don’t worry about the centre punch thing. I was in my forties before I learned that peanuts grow underground. And just the other day, at the ripe old age of 50, I learned that wombat excrement is cubed.
Going to be honest, not much impresses me in recent years, but seeing you build next to a fender is like comparing the Rolls-Royce to an 80's Larda. Bloody hell Ben you absolute legend, please please please dont stop building. If i had 7k to pay for it, i would still think I've ripped you off. That is 10k min guitar easy.
Rather than MOP in the bridge pins you should have used abalone, which is a traditionally highly valued material in NZ (known locally as Paua shell) and would be more in keeping with NZ wood, etc. The guitar looks and sounds great, congrats!
I found myself doing that tiny bit of counter sink so often that I did make one myself. I just drilled a 1/4" hole in a London Pattern boxwood chisel handle and epoxied in a countersink. The handle is almost identical to the plastic handles on old Craftsman screwdrivers (they copied the London pattern handle) so very comfortable to use. It really reduces chip out in the finish when installing screws in pilot holes. I give a quick touch to every screw hole after spraying the finish.
@@chriss2452 it will, but the washer might make a difference between a snowball's chance in hell, and a fighting chance. Might. But I think it'll do something. There's a point to washers, I'm sure...
Ben, as soft as that wood is, even though you have treated it with the cactus juice, super glue, and all that lacquer, I would vote for using threaded inserts to bolt the neck on just as a precaution.
I have 2 old Millers Falls hand drills, one like that, and a large one with the shoulder rest so you can put some pressure on it. Like a poor man's drill press. I love old hand tools almost as much as Ben, and have several other Millers Falls tools (including a set of lathe tools, planes, etc) 😁
I always use a drill press for cutting stuff like that plate. With plastic, a handheld drill tends to go too fast, and can grab hold of the material, causing the crack. A drill press helps you slow down how fast the bit is cutting into the material, and prevents grabbing. If you need to use a hand drill, a step bit will also open the hole up without grabbing. (step bits are pretty awesome for lots of other things, I use them all the time) I had to work with plastic signage at my last job, so I have a decent amount of experience, learning from several mistakes... Oh, and I like stainless steel for neck plates, jack plates, etc. I've even made my own string thru ferrules and truss rod nuts from it.
There's 2 drillbits i could advise. Try using a cobalt metal drill for the acrylic, in low gear, and let the drill do the work. no pushing down, the weight of the drill and a slight bit of armweight will do the trick just fine. divide the hole you want to create into 3, and use that as your drill upscaling. i.e. for a 6 millimeter hole, divide by 3, that means 2mm increments., start with 2mm for the pilot drill, then use 4, and finally use 6mm. Another thing you could so, is use a spearheaded drill that is used for ceramics and glass and if you have the ones that look like an actual ancient spearhead, the ones that are curved instead of angular, you wont have to increase drillsizes because the spearhead form does it for you. You can pre-drill a pilot hole, and the spearhead will center itself. Another thing i wouldn't do myself is use a centerpoint on acrylic as it is pretty brittle, instead use a thicker kind of masking tape, or a double layer if need be. By layering it, making it thicker and softer, you create the dent you need to keep the drillbit from taking a stroll :D Remember, both the cobalt drillbit and the spearhead drillbit require low revolutions in order to function properly. lower RPM actually means working faster, even, as it allows the bits to grip and scrape and remove material better than when you work in high RPM and it grazes over the material causing unwanted friction and heat that melts the acrylic and forms a dulling coating layer on the drillbit etc.. ***mindblown emoji*** Hope this helps, go make some sawdust everyone :D
If it cracks that easily it’s not going to last long with the pressure from the screws for the neck. In my experience acrylic expands and contracts quite a bit with temperature.
Fabulous work, the finish is exceptional, but that doesn't need to be said, of course! I love the acrylic plate! I'd want to play something quite special on an instrument like this.
"I'm fighting the temptation to polish the inside of the countersink" Literally the next frame : proceeds to polish the inside of the countersink BTW I was amazed when you put that screw in after pouring the polish, before talking about the round of applause, that's a tiny little detail but it's so genius
Beautiful guitar...This piece is truly a work of art. Was wondering if it would be done in my lifetime. I'd hate to be paying by the hour for this build.
I have discovered a new product that is a cleaner, but works as a low grit polishing compound. It is called Pink Stuff. I have tried it on buffalo horn, and was impressed. I would engrave on the inside of the plate , as it is transparent, The engraved design will show lighter
