@@aHornetsNest I can relate 😁 Got my hands on an old ViperPit for dead cheap. Just sitting in it is satisfying af. Will be a lot of work to get everything functional though. Winter may come 😁🤓
Very nice. My thoughts, break the button PCB into 4 parts it will be cheaper, they have to mill out the hole in the middle, join them to a common controller chain with 5 wire 2mm JST connectors. if you are using something like a teensy to control multiple keypad panels use a TCA8418 for the buttons it's an I2C GPIO keyboard encoder drives 80 buttons and costs the same as the shitty I2C gpio extenders but does configurable KB scan itself and just sends you a number, also comes with a 10 slot fifo so you can be slow.
Thanks mate :) Yeah valid point, but I’d rather pay for having a single unit PCB Yeah the IO expanders on the board do just fine 🤙🏻 but it is one of those hobbies where you can do it 50 different ways
Another great video, can a ask how the rocker switches work for gain, contrast etc.. Are they a specific type of switch? Or just 2 normal momentary switches side by side?
Imperial is dead simple for those of us that are used to it. Like anything else, if it's what you know, then it's no prob. Btw, your tutorials are the best, hands down. Great work!
@@lebojay Just think of it as continually cutting something in half, 1/2 to 1/4 to 1/8 to 1/16 to 1/32 to 1/64, etc. Do my metric friends cut their pizzas into 1/10s?
Thanks mate!!! My goal by the end of this is to become fluent in both haha What gets me is when it’s like “3/8” and I’m there trying to working what’s that bigger or smaller than 😂😂 thanks for your support to the channel 🤙🏻🤙🏻
How can I drawing a pcb to have that specific tactile switch with the green led inside? I watched your pcb design tutorial (great tutorial by the way), but it doesn’t really go into how to add specific buttons onto the pcb.
Hey! So you would go to a website like mouser.com - and you would download the specific files for the device and save it to the libraries Or you can grab the data sheet and draw up your own foot print / symbols I can look at making a video for it 🤙🏻🤙🏻
Yeah there is :) I’m going to be adding my AMPCD + finger guard file to the Mod folder in the Dev branch today 🤙🏻 that way it’s there for the next release or when people download it specifically 🫡
So cool to watch, I am DIY sim builder too, my biggest problem so far is that my resin buttons painted white are always "yellowish" when I backlight them. When I don't paint them with white - left just white resin it is much better, not sure were is the problem - the wait paint isn't true white?
@@aHornetsNest LEDs are strong white, resin Anycubic ECO-plat based white. When I light up the resin only it makes nice white text and icons, but when I add 1or2 layers of white during painting and black on top it makes the text yellowish while backlight. I have to test those tamyia white paints.
Ummm yeah it could be just blocking some of the light, and letting through the yellower frequencies Send me a pic on Instagram or Facebook if you want I use SMS insignia white … it’s quite good And it’ll generally only a light layer of it… that way it backlights correctly and doesn’t block too much
Hey it definitely does exist You’ll probs pay 4 times as much The top of the screen tucks away behind the upper instrument panel 🤙🏻🤙🏻 stay tuned for next episode I’ll be painting the cockpit grey and I’ll install the AMPCD and show you how it works Yeah I definitely wouldn’t leave it like this as a stand alone module 😂
Winwing probably scales their MFD/DDI to match up with screens are readily available on the market. Open Hornet is a 1:1 replica sized to the actual Hornet. That means stepping away from having a screen that matches perfectly. Both ways of making these has a flaw. You either have a compromise with not being actual size or you have a screen that might be off sized but not noticeable due to viewing angle.
