Hey Will just so you know even though you may think the info and the way things go on Camara isn't the best , you have to remember that your videos are invaluable to people like me , who have no idea what I'm doing most of the time and seeing it done in such a way helps me learn it and know that sometimes shit doesn't go as planned but keep at it and keep going until you get the desired effect........other videos showing how simple and easy things are , are discouraging and quite frankly seem out of reach........and that's no good for anyone .......keep up the great work , you rock and roll .......
Hello Will , just wanted to thank you for for all these videos and your sharing of your knowledge , Its highly appreciated. Hope you have a great/safe week ! Tony
I picked up one of the warbirds legends books on the mosquito, and there is an image in it of a spinner with streaks from all of the rivets, but what is odd is the streaks aren't actually curved, they are staight but at an angle.
Hi Will fantastic as always, we learn so much from your videos. Here's an idea for making curved oil streaks for spinners. Keep the brush steady, no movement at all in your brush hand. Touch the brush, with the spinner (so move the spinner instead of the brush) at the point the streak starts and slowly rotate the spinner (as it would rotate in reality) and move it upward (or forward, depending how you are holding the brush). In this way you are simulating the way the spinner moves in reality, while your brush just draws what it touches. With a little practice I am sure you can do very realistic curved streaks. Also changing the rotation speed and longitudinal speed of the spinner, you easily change the curvature of each streak - simulating different streaks created at different aircraft & spinner speeds or in different conditions. Let us know if you try it and how it works. :-)
I do deeply dig this series. I’m just about at the point on my current project where it needs a lot of random, dirty messing, and you’re hitting the spot. Thanks for taking the time.
Thanks Will! So what do you recommend thinning the Mr. Color clears with...Mr. Color Leveling, or Tamiya Lacquer Thinner, or???? And you said 1;1 ratio? I just started playing with them but it seems too thick (Iwata HP-C with a .3 nozzle at 15 -18 psi) but I'm afraid to thin too much if I'm covering oils? Thanks for all your amazing help...I really appreciate your passion for "telling the story" through this art!
You could really use any lacquer thinner with any lacquer clear. It kind of depends on the result you want. A slower lacquer thinner will give you a smoother, glossier finish. And I recommend starting at one to one but I often reduce further.
Will, just beggined watching the video. Have you considered doing your work at your own phase while having the camera recording overhead, no narration? Then, when editing, select the useful clips for tecnique demonstration purposes and narrate over them to explaim what you were doing. It's more work but it might prevent you from not enjoying the paint process and get you to have a better time with the video part of things.
Will, Can I ask, where can we get/purchase that “sprue cutters union” shirt?🤔 Nice idea about using the length of sprue with a pin vise for holding/working purposes. On the gun access doors, I believe they rotated on their forward edge for gun/ammo bay access, Would the staining from usage/handling be more prevalent on the trailing/back edge of the doors? (B-T-W, “Greg’s airplanes and automobiles” web site did a interesting (to me) 3 part series on propeller developed including the introduction and explanation of variable pitch propellers and the associated hydraulic & electrical pitch control mechanisms. B-T-W2 He also does a very good discussion regarding the developer & usage of various type WWII aircraft, Ii.e.the P-47 T-Bolt, and the recently begun one for the P-38 lighting).uh
Great job on the videos Will! (...and much appreciated!) But I have one basic question that's I can't get past since the first video. I understand why you want to render on a "flat" surface (for the "tooth"), but why do you use GX113? Aren't all of your base paints flat already? Why not just render straight over your flat paints?
Wonder if it's possible to add some sort of Grease monkey handprints in there somewhere I got to be cool if you could mimic a little micro handprint on something like that
