EP61 Charging Ports Goof ups! | What do I do if I lift a pad while soldering a charging port? 

Im glad your not so worried now! I hope my other videos come across just as well for you =)

Thank you for this comment! I love hearing these types of things, really makes me feel like im doing something to help =)

Right on bro, im glad to have you around! I appriciate the comment and sub!

Thank you! Im glad the video helped you =) I also appreciate the time you took to make a comment. =) Feel free to stop by anytime!

=D Thanks for the comment. Im glad you learned something =)

I appreciate you leaving a comment, I hope to see more in the future =D Im glad that your learning =)

Same.

you won’t be able to do it. you need a microscope, very fine solder and pencil soldering iron. You just can’t go with Walmart and buy the stuff to do it. It’s not that simple junior 🤨

hope you'll doin allrite sir.

@@chafacorpTV Thank you sir.

Hopefully you will also be doing this work like its nothing! Keep at it!

ahhH! i got a jumper video commmmmin up real soon broski. hold on tight! back in a few weeks, working on my new website =) Thank you so much for your comment and being part of the community!

Have you tried straight up enameled jumper wire and UV coating?

No. Magnet wire is enameled wire.

It makes me so happy to hear this. Hope to hear from you again with more confidence!:)

I use a small piece of silicone pad and a jewelers anvil which is in my description if you want to try to find it local. Great secondary board cooling heat sink as well along with no crazy height issues for the scope since its sitting on top.

ru-vid.com?redir_token=U_ACfVyW50480esUKVS8K74egrN8MTU2MTAzODE4NUAxNTYwOTUxNzg1&event=video_description&v=lhFkc6ZKrAQ&q=http%3A%2F%2Famzn.to%2F2eKEz4t

Thats what im doing now =D, but no I know what you mean. Iv got dreams of opening the Art of Repairs, School of Repair for sure. But balancing multiple shops and the channel can be alot of work sometimes. Hopefully one day Ill get to a place where I can make it work =D I appropriate your view and comment! Hope to see ya in the comments section again at some point =D

Working hard on it brother, theres alot of mess in doing business in other countries =( But rest assured, they will be available everywhere, hopefully soon!

TheArtofRepair ill distribution in Australia/ asia ...

Thank you very much for the kind words! I appreciate the positive comment =)

Thats what im talking bout!

hahahah i know right, tbh if i did that in this video, people would hate me haha, such a boring video to see the same thing that many times.

Silver conductive pen would not be within spec to fix issues like this. Best to run a jumper =)

Yes

Right on! Im glad i saved you done monies =)))

i have the same problem. I have a phone with charging port usb type C where from 24 there are 20 broken pads haha, no idea where to jump each one, i guess there you need a working phone to test continuity or schematics/ diagrams

Dylan Westfall back in the states now because of the pandemic , unfortunately thought it’s not economically feasible to search for one part like that. I can help you source anything you want.. but one item.. could cost you more than the device if shipped alone. Most cheap things are brought over in pallets and broken down in the country they go to and shipped locally

Do you have a repair shop in the U.S ? I could email some pictures of what it's like or needs for an estimate

Dylan Westfall you can email me at justin@artof.repair but I may or may not do it. I basically pick and choose my work at this point. So no guarantees on anything but feel free to email.

This is how it looks if you install a small magnifying glass to a phone camera. 12MP i.ibb.co/k3js0d7/dav.jpg i.ibb.co/P6VbJh0/dav.jpg

underfill or no underfill?

At this point, its best to go ahead and run a jumper, once the integrity has been compromised its not going back in. Iv looked for the adhesive used to hole down the pads, but cant seem to find it in a "personal" quantity. =( on that same note, once the pad has moved, the integrity of the pad itself in terms the trace itself are not as strong as it should be and can fail even if glued back down, still best to run jumpers =) I appreciate your comment! Thanks for the view =D

@@TheArtofRepair not to mention that copper pads can lift due to a variety of reasons, one of those being corrosion from water or electrolyte damage. If you have corrosion eating away under a pad then epoxying it back down will be a very temporary fix. I would rather cut out the damaged pads/traces if feasible just to follow the corrosion and make sure I'm not missing any other issues on that circuit that haven't cropped up yet.

Chemicals for under fill removal do exist, but are beyond nasty and toxic. Unless I find something safe, I wouldn't recommend it.

Creating new pads take way longer and the density of the jumpers more than makes up for any disparity in the mass of creating a new pad. New pad repair is alot less time consuming in more macro sized circuits IMO. I can run a jumper in seconds that will function the same forever that a new pad would be that would take me potentially 20-30 minutes, especially at that point if im making new pads, then im def taking my time to make them proper. Its a fusion of efficiently and effectiveness, especially when you have 100 more boards in queue to work on. I appreciate the question! feel free to comment anytime! =D

Thanks a lot, it did teach me a lot!:-) I have looked at your great list in the description, but it seem that your bend probes are not listed, or am I wrong?

The probes are part of his volt meter

@@newguy8830 Okay thank you for helping!! Do you know if it's possible to get separate probes like that, haven't found anywhere I have looked? :-)

Try searching micro or phone repair voltmeter probes

I've fixed one with the same problem for a co-worker. Not to hard to fix. He tore of 7 pads and traces.

As long as you can find the next pad in line with the circuit, it can be jumped and fixed. Sometimes pads move down into the board and the vias as not accessible, so knowing the next itemin line is important.

Totally agree. This is not "The Art of repair", it's just bodge it together quick and forget it. This is not a repair made to last, and comply with the original quality of the unit.

I couldn't say it better. I would be embarrassed if I did this repair. I have used wick to repair a very high voltage / current trace. But that was due to not having trace material that could handle amps thru circuit used.

He did say in the video that this isnt the proper way of doing things and this is just for demostration and from what i understand the way of thinking

@@nontasanastasios7612 either way if you put it out to the internet, people will take it as proper instruction. I'm a CIT for IPC-A-610 and WHMA-620. I've been doing board repair since 95'. I'd never show someone this as a repair.

I am familiar with IPC 7711c/7721c including procedure 6.1 which clearly demonstrates an IDENTICAL method as to this video, which also mentioned that there is no level of conformance in this type of procedure. I think the only thing that could have really been added to the video would be to mention something about epoxy but it's not 100% needed unless its application specific, a little slack will cure any type of stress as long as your anchors are fine and you using an insulated jumper wire. I do think your overexaggerating yourself a bit and are not really appreciating the repair circumstance, as I chose to show a worst case scenario type of damage. I think you're focusing too much on my example looking worse than an actual job than me doing the job right or wrong. The video itself clearly demonstrates the thought process and idea of jumping a small trace in a small low voltage, low amperage environment. I would love for you to describe your method for full trace repair in this situation bearing in mind the scale of this type of job being in the sub millimetre, as far as I know, micro jumpers are industry standard at this point and unlike larger macro traces, they do not actually sell trace repair kits anymore.. they sell jumper wire... While I hope this comment does not come off in a negative tone, I def do think that you kind of came out of pocket without actually assessing the situation as a whole, including the needs of the repair and the proper procedure as dictated by the document you put down as proof of your claim With all that being said, I do hope to see you in the comments in the future and am happy to have a conversation with you anytime about my methods and techniques =)

Personally, at that point, i think it might be safer to just use one of those micro charging circuit controller add on boards and just solder the points to that and just lock down a new port and run jumpers to it. Theres just alot of damage there. I do have a video on continuity mode as well you can watch, but you can also just select the waveform symbol on your multimeter and just wait for the beep. The beep is usually based on a diode or resistance measurement under a threshold value that could be considered continuity.

@TheArtofRepair Thanks for your reply, man! This is the motherboard. It forms one piece with the bottom part. Old design. I've never heard of that micro charging circuit to add on the motherboard. Thanks for mentioning. ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H5634ab8ac43a45388e0aa9fd6da351f7P/Ymitn-Electronic-panel-mainboard-Motherboard-unlocked-with-chips-Circuits-flex-Cable-For-Huawei-Y7-prime-2018.jpg

@@dan_6915 i would just jump over to ali express, i haven't looked for or used one in years, but i know they exist and im sure plenty of ppl have stock. Iv heard of them being used in lots of cases where the charging circuit repair is impossible or prohibitively expensive.

It's no fun fixing stuff like this for customers that think they know how to solder. Used to work in a repair shop.

I feel the same

He's just explaining things.