The 339 is a great semi-acoustic... and there's no better colour / finish than the Pelham blue version. Double-bound and doubly-beautiful. Another 339 in for the full set up: custom-made Tusq adjustable nut and precision fret levelling.
I have exactly the same guitar (model, age, colour) due in to Sam this week, work permitting, so look out out for another video of the same thing. The previous owner didn't like the setup and "tried to improve it" but the strings were higher than a nuns knickers and even tighter. I lowered the action by about half and tuned it to a 440 E and it sounded much better. It still needs a Sam tune, new Tusq and a new roller bridge but then it should be spot on. As a learner of guitar it may well end up being like Les Dawson playing a Steinway for a while but at least I cant blame the tool!
Usually it will improve a new guitar. They tend to ship with a so-so setup, that could be improved, especially on cheaper guitars, from big box shifting stores
Thats why I try to buy from Sweetwater, if you buy a guitar over $300 they do a 54 point check on the guitar. They might even put it on a plec machine.
I've got this guitar, an es339 pro with coil tapping, in this Pelham blue. It's great but it's a bit neck heavy and keeps slipping off my shoulder, I need to get a grippy strap, otherwise its terrific
What kind of nut are you using? I have the exact same guitar, same color and I love it. But the top notes are often sharp for the same reason. But I have no experience doing it.
Hi Sam, I read somewhere that the nut slots should fit the string tightly and then I noticed from your videos that you use wider files. How come the string does not rattle in the slot, especially in Epi LPs with not that angled head stocks? I changed default plastic nut to preslotted tusq nut and hear nut rattle or behind nut ringing (especially on G). Eyball sandpapering the slots helped but left me wondering about proper slot width. Thank you. Learned a lot from your videos.
Hi Lukas... hello and thank you for your nice feedback & the question. I've been cutting nut slots for a few years now and I started off using expensive Japanese files... but these proved too flimsy and cut slots that were usually too tight (because the file would bend slightly and cut a 'wiggly' line) and required loads of sanding / finessing. I worked out that a slot that widened above the string would be better because it would never grip the string.. and I started using a combination of the 'V' notch file and the Japanese files. The 'V' file to do the heavy cutting and the Japanese files to 'round out' the bottom of the slot. But in reality, the 'V' file comes to a fairly sharp point so the strings never have TOO much room; and they never rattle. If you're more comfortable using nut files then (having tried them out once) I do recommend the Hosco double-sided files with handles. The reason is they're much stiffer (because they're much thicker in the middle) but also they're in effect also a 'V' in cross-section which means that like the 'V' file, they also open up above the string which is good. I plan to buy them at some point... but I get by very well at the moment without them especially when I make nuts adjustable - because then I'm only every using the untouched, factory-made slots anyway and bringing them UP to the correct 1st fret action (rather than cutting down). I hope that makes sense? Cheers - Sam
I know the benefits of replacing it with the adjustabls nut, I'm guessing you don't. The slots on this were poor and were guessing tuning problems. Fixed
Hi Sam, this is another great video. I have the same guitar (but in red) and it is indeed a great guitar. I just have a (few) question hoping you could guide me. I have noticed in my 339 that the bridge radius does not match my fretboard radius. I have used radius gauges to check and looks like strings are all at different heights. How important is to match the fretboard radius ? Is this is something I should worry about? Does this affects playability? Is there is any of your videos where you talk about this?
Hi Pedro - this seems to be quite common. I also very frequently find one or two of the saddles WAY out of step with the others. In some cases I file them a little to bring them back down 'into' the regular radius spread. Ideally you DO want the bridge saddle radius to match the neck radius otherwise you'll end up either a) with outer strings too high when the D and G are at the right height (most often) or b) the opposite (less common). Tune-O-matic bridges are crude devices and they almost never seem to match the 12" radius of the fingerboard. If it's noticeable don't be afraid to file the notches until you have the right heigh - but remember to sand the notches with a range of increasingly fine sandpapers to make sure there are no sharp edges to damage strings (or your palms)
@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars thank you very much for taking the time to reply me back. Do you advise getting some professional nut files or sand paper will do the job too?
@@guatemala3d If you're talking about filing the TOM saddles then the V file out of a set of 'diamond-coated jeweller files' will do a good job. That file can also be used to do your nut too - my eBook '5 Steps To Guitar Set Up Heaven' shows how I do that (as well as how to make your own 'Banana' fret levelling tool that I use in my set ups). facebook.com/relovedguitars/photos/a.1434485003475282/2887544238169344/
About the flickering lights. I know this is an old video. Try tingering with your frame rate on your camera. It's the room lighting that is the problem. But sometimes it can be fixed in camera. Or try watch this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H70AISpRBC8.html
Yes. There is a very good reason why which is evident from my videos and which I explain in most of them. I've been getting great results from this method for 6 or 7 years, which is why I continue to do it. It probably seems illogical to you - it did to me when I first levelled frets this way - but I assure you it's very effective.
@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars thanks Sam ..you did a great job on it...I was just struck at how great it sounded when you played it at the end of the set-up... unplugged! Keep it up man. Always watching you from Guyana 🇬🇾.
Really bizarre comment. It's obviously a 2 hour video showing the setup of a specific guitar model. If you're not interested in how to do that, or what it involves, why watch it? If you are, it's a great video that documents and explains the process
Jon, it's because I decided from the beginning (2014) that I would NOT edit because I didn't have time and it didn't pay me to do it. But also because my target market was fine with the ultra-slow pace. I get that it doesn't work for many others; that's fine for me because I make them a) for customers to see what I did if they want to watch and b) for my target market to see how I do it and make up their mind whether or not to send me a guitar. The format does that very well so I'm not inclined to change it - which I'm sure you can understand :)
@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars It's very easy for viewers to "fast forward" on RU-vid. I don't mind your unedited videos. What is the brand of the adjustable nut?
