Good explanation but You dont need to explain some other details that not necessarily,, too much talking bit just my opinion, that's why i skip a lot of your video there's a lot of same tutorials you do but more direct talking too much isn't help trust me ,, just my opinion
I have 66,000 subscribers and over 700 videos posted to my channel, which currently has over 11,000,000 views. This video has almost 200,000 views alone. You only have 2 subscribers for one posted video. Your channel has 2 subscribers, one video, and 7 views. Therefore, your opinion is almost, well, useless.
@@HighlineGuitars well im not focusing in my RU-vid channel i dont have a time and you have of course if it is my first priority im pretty sure i will post a better one i have an account for almost 10 years a have a lot of videos but I didn't post it i jus post one to try but i reqlly dont have interest not my type some of my friends ask me to post and make money of it but i said to them if i have some extra time i will but i dont have by the way i just telling you the truth so that atleast it will help maybe opinion to make you more successful and awareness acceptance and some criticism it will help but to contradict them thats your opinion ,, its not because you have many subscribers not all of them want to watch your video and follow you ,, i watch many tutorials same as you do pike i said no talking too much its more followers and untill now i can help my self to watch because its more good ,, and this time many people know already a lot too much talking make them boring i just said just direct to the point its more better ,, im trying to help you here ,, ì watch a lot of making guitar from scratch to finish more like they get
@@HighlineGuitars 66 k subscribers and 191 viewers for 3 years come on i think like i said maybe you need to change your style a little bit ,, just direct to the point stop too much talking ,, trust me it will help boost your views and subscriber's people dont like talking too much details
I know this video is old and the odds of this comment getting read are low, but this is a world class explanation of somewhere between what hobbyists do and what is done by hobbyists who take this stuff QUITE seriously! The proof is in the results. I loved the extremely detailed explanations, personally. There are a million videos that sort of give lip service to the steps. Fantastic teaching.
Man, you're not only a great luthier, you're a GREAT teacher too. I really appreciate the knowing why to do something and perhaps more importantly, why NOT to do some things.Teaching effectively is not easy, you have a gift. Thank you for sharing that gift
We should be paying for the information on this channel, by far the best channel on guitar building, this channel has helped me finish a few guitars each one coming out better than the one before, every problem that arises I find the solution here, Thanks!!! Once again I cant believe this information is free!!!
This video is brilliant - it shows what the internet can be - it gave me the confidence to get a great finish on my one-off custom bass, and to use the right materials and equipment to get there. The explanations are really good, and I watched this video over and over again before letting rip on spray-finishing. Excellent stuff, Well done, and Thank you.
I can not express fully enough my admiration for you and your work at teaching, guiding, performing, and videotaping on an artisan level. I almost never feel comfortable enough to actually embark on an attempt to replicate on my own what I see and hear. In fact, I do not remember the last time I felt adequately informed to invest in an art. Bravo! Bravo! And thank you for leading by example in more than this.
I don't have any plans to make a guitar any time in the near future. I'm just a hobby woodworker who struggles with finishes. This has been such an eye opening video! I can't wait to try this on some keepsake boxes. Thank you so much!
That finish is gorgeous. I'm at the clear coat stage with my first guitar build. It has been grain filled, sanded, black stained, sanded back, then colour stained (emerald green). Now it needs sealing, clear coating, and polishing. This video has given me some confidence for the next steps. Wish me luck.
Best finishing tutorial on RU-vid for sure. You are the premier finishing resource that I have found. Keep up the great work and think about going back to this haircut. .
I thought this was a wildly educational video. I came here because I am a guitar aficionado, but I also really enjoy refinishing fine furniture. You showed me some new things. Thank you very much. Because of people like you, there is a wealth of great information on RU-vid. Just last month I learned how to fix my mower. I understand that it helps you if I give a "Thumbs-up" and subscribe, so I did both.
I recently acquired three chunks of wood that will eventually become my first hand built guitar. I'm in sponge mode now, just trying to learn as much as possible and I have to say that I really appreciate your videos. Thanks for all you do.
Wow! You're the "Bob Ross" of guitar finishing! So informative with a pleasant tone of voice and excellent results. I plan on doing a Les Paul with a flamed maple top and I'll be using your instruction to accomplish that! I've done a few painted guitars and the clearcoat never turned out the way I wanted due to me trying to block-sand them. That eraser trick, in a circular motion, makes sense. I subbed immediately! Thanks Bro!
Very impressed with the results. I've got an 2 piece Alder wood body that is matched nicely. Before I start the process I plan on getting some scrap Alder from my guinea pig test. Thanks for a very informative video
That’s a first class finish. Probably the most comprehensive guide to finishing on the Internet. I wish this product was readily available in the UK. Thanks!
Hi William, i've checked this out too. However they ship worldwide, it would cost us a kidney on shipping fees, not to mention the import taxes on it. I'm gonna email those guys to see what they can do on those prices. If i could only buy the sanding sealer and finish per pint, it could be worth it. Because it's water based, you can also use your own other brands of dyes on waterbase. Cheers from Belgium. BTW.. have you heared yet anything about the brexit ? I'm a bit conserned i have to pay import to Belgium from the UK in the near future. That damn stupid ugly woman..
I am about to try to finish my first kit guitar which is solid mahogany , which is why I was searching for tips and techniques on how to apply a finish. I found your video superb. Your instructions are so detailed that even I think I can follow them. I dont have a spray gun or a buffing wheel, so I am not expecting to get as perfect a finish as you, bit if I can get somewhere near then I will be delighted. Thanks. 👍
Thanks Chris! I needed a refresher on the entire process of finishing a guitar. I use a different water based finish system but the steps are the same plus you've refreshed my process with this video.
Totally agree. I build guitars, have been hanging out in guitar building communities for most of my life. There are many ways to do things, processes, products, etc., but there are always the builders that are so methodical and clean - they are an inspiration on how you should be doing it. He is one of them.
Another very informative video. I’m finishing my 1st scratch built guitar and your videos have been extremely helpful in my progress. Please keep sharing your experience and insights. Thanks Randy
Your videos are educational as well as satisfying to watch. Every detail and process is covered so your not plagued with more questions than you started like most other instructional vids. Thanks.
Thank you for such an extensive walk-through! This really is invaluable stuff. I am on my first guitar building project and this video is now my bible for how to get the finish done. :)
about a year ago I randomly saw a single pack of Abranet in a store, decided what the heck, bought it to give it a shot. Now my workshop is stocked with boxes of the stuff. I love it. It's amazing.
Best tutorial award! Even if i won’t use the products you showed (already bought mine), it answered most of my questions. This tutorial shows tons of deep vital information.
Using paste wax in holes will get you some day. I use poly or lacquer to wipe the inside of the holes to prevent the swelling before any finish goes on. You have wonderful skills and talent! Truly inspiring. Thanks!
Just watched the video for the third time! Took notes this time. I am in the middle of my first project with the CraftNique products. Thank you for such a thorough video!!
Just clear-coated a guitar with Brite Tone for the first time (7 coats with HVLP), and I gotta say...my initial impression is that this stuff is FANTASTIC. Lays down beautifully, clean up is a breeze, so little overspray and fumes that you probably don't need a respirator in a large area (although I wear one anyway), and it dries rock hard in just a couple hours. I'm fighting myself to wait 3-4 days to start dry sanding, using the Super Assilex from Eagle that you reviewed, and which also appears to be an awesome product after playing with the K-600 a little between coats. Can't wait to see how it turns out, as getting a nice top coat has always been my Achilles heel. Thanks much for all of your incredibly helpful videos Chris.
@@HighlineGuitars How critical is it to wait 3-4 days to start dry sanding with the Super Assilex? (It's been 24 hours since the last coat, and I'm really just fishing for an approval to be impatient. :D ) BTW... loved the steampunk guitar project and videos. I've been a CAD designer and programmer for almost 30 years (mostly Pro/Engineer (errr... "Creo")), and your information on how you tie the various design programs together to develop and generate the G-code was excellent. And... the guitar turned out to be beautiful and unique. Nicely done sir.
@@HighlineGuitars figured you'd say something like that. lol It's a faux marble finish. A few scratches may add some more character (it's my "rock" guitar :D )
Awesome guide, explaining the process and steps in a good way with great results at the end. will be giving this process a try, thanks for the vid keep it up.
Chris,I've been building guitars for 12 years and like your videos ,this was my favorite,not long enough, beautiful guitar outstanding finish ,one if the best I've seen
Very good video. You used so many different techniques and combined them all to great effect. Some viewer may only use one or two steps of thos process and best of all, you can apply these things to other projects. My only criticism of you is responding to negative feedback on RU-vid. Just don't do it. It gives oxygen to them. Again, great work and thank you. This one has been saved for a reference file!!
You have a masterful command of the process, well done! I much prefer leaving the wood grain texture, with many coats of Liberon finishing oil and renaissance wax top coat. It ends up looking like a piece of touchable Sam Maloof furniture and can be reapplied every couple of years if the finish settles. Encasing your wood in plastic may be necessary for a guitar that gets shipped around the world but a home made instrument can let the wood look like wood, not a high gloss photograph of wood IMHO.
Your tip about applying wax to the control knob holes so the bare wood doesn't absorb water while wet sanding...what a great tip! Thank you so much for taking the time to create, edit and post your videos!! I'm finishing a Firebird kit now. Going to use the crystalac bright tone for sure! Your guitar looked absolutely stunning at the end with the window test. I call that "walking light back and forth" across the body:)
I've watched this video several times now. If I could only give it several likes! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with this weekend luthier. Cheers Chris!
@@HighlineGuitars If I'm after an opaque finish, do you know if I would be better served using the pigments in a) clear Brite Tone only or b) their Universal White & topped with Brite Tone? Thanks again Chris!
A way of catching the curly q scratches is to wet the surface of the wood with a damp cloth and water, between each grit change. It will raise the grain of the wood and all sanding scratches
I'll have to keep that in mind. I usually pre raise the grain at least once during the sanding process to make the surface extra smooth, but I never considered it for dealing with the curly q scratches. Thanks!
Hey Chris I've watched this for about the 4th time now. I used crystalac for my last acoustic after watching your videos. I used E6000 in the past but this was much better. Beautiful finish, brushed on and hand polished. Couldn't be easier. Curly redwood top really pops. Thanks for the video
Thanks for the thorough information on this project. I have finished a few guitars and your channel is easily the best resource available for a variety of applications. I came to this video as I have a cheapo guitar body that came with a sealer coat on it. These are typically painted opaque, but I actually like the grain pattern, and would like to take shot at applying a transparent color. While I have done my best to sand it off, there still appears to be some spots in the grain where it is embedded pretty deep. I would like to avoid sanding too much material off, and thought a gel stain/dye like the Crystalac you used in this vid might do a better job of covering and creating a film layer instead of a traditional water based dye that would need to penetrate and absorb more in the wood. I typically use Keda Dye powder mixed with water, and I have a lot of it on hand, so I would prefer to use that as my colorant instead of of buying the CraftNique pigments. I would imagine Keda could be used to tint the Crystalac clear gel stain since they are all water based, and was curious if you had done any experiments using anything other than the CraftNique pigments to tint the clear gel? Thanks for all the videos and info!
You can also apply a coat of grain filler after it's been sealed as well. Find a viscosity that's not too thin. P.S. don't apply grain filler with your fingers that's just bush league. Use a brush or rag, your application will be more even, wipe off excess and let dry 24 hours. Then go to 600 grit and reseal, 800 grit and start your topcoat application
Thank you very much for this video. You explained everything from start to finish with just the right amount of detail. I have a 68 ES-335 stripped to the bare wood, that I will begin finishing this week. I found your video just by chance, and what perfect timing. Since my 335 is a vintage Gibson, I will stay close to the original finishing schedule, and as such I'm using nitro and materials from StewMac, including their Guitar Finishing book, but that book conflicts itself in many places, which is intimidating to me. The most help portion of your video for me, was on for level sanding. I can now approach that with far less fear. I hope you make a lot of money on this video, because it's helpful, and it provides a model of the optimal way to make a how to video. Thanks again.
I’ve found if I use a sander with a smaller oscillation I get fewer sander swirls. For an example most sanders use a 3/16 orbit. If you find one with a 3/32 orbit you’ll get less sander marks.
I am truly thinking of switching over to the Crystalac system after watching these series of videos. I really love the fact of how eco friendly these products are. I think these would be a great compliment to the Auto Air line of Automotive paints by Createx. Seems like a perfect combination since both are water based.
Excellent tutorial. Well presented & with clarity. Amazing result. However, I would recommend increasing temperature to 40C to reduce cure time & raising the glass transition temperature (softening transition) of the resin. By increasing the temperature by 10C you double the rate of chemical reaction.
Ok I am sold on trying to use a water based finish. I mainly use solvent based leather dyes and wipe on poly for a finish. I have tried multiple times using a acrylic lacquer but takes forever to cure and I end up getting dents and soft spots. I think this method will end up saving me a lot of hassle and give me a great result.
There are basically two types of polymer used in water-based finishes; acrylic and polyurethane. Crystalac is a polyurethane-based finish and is much harder than the acrylic-based finishes.
Very interesting video. It's clearly the perfect tuttorial for me. I finished the first stape of my guitar ( an old stratocaster), sanding, primar, paint and clear coat.( Someone advise me to let the clear coat dry during a month). The next step for me will be wet handed sanding and buffing but It's new for me. Thanks for the explanations.
Chris, thank you so much for such a comprehensive tutorial. You recommend cleaning your level sanded finish with denatured alcohol. I just want to point out that the finish much be "absolutely" cured before using alcohol. As alcohol is a solvent for water born lacquers. I just wanted to put a finer point on this particular issue to help prevent any mishaps. Thanks again.
DALG Guitars it’s okay to wipe the surface with a rag dampened with denatured alcohol without waiting for the finish to fully cure as long as you wipe it off right away. If you pour it on and let it sit, it will ruin the finish. That’s just common sense.
