Another excellent tutorial yorkie learning something new every time you make a video, Not doing my own tuning yet till i seen your last video and then will re watch all of the series to get a better understanding of tuning. But keep up the great videos mate really helpful to understand
Very effective setup for me, tried this and my laptime decreases by 2 seconds..higly recommended setup especially for a RWD cars..thanks a lot mate, new subscriber here..
Was hoping you mentioned engine temps :-) thank you.I missed optimal wet tyre temps , hope you can do a short on wet set ups as I can't seem to get a decent range of temps across all of the tyre and is much as 30 c difference .
As always, great video and info. Thanks Yorkie, well done. Regarding engine degradation, I find in some cars I start to get degradation when driving without incident. Regardless of how careful I am not to over rev the engine when downshifting and even if I upshot before reaching the rev limits I get engine wear starring at 1, and slowly increasing. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong that I can't identify in my driving technique? Thanx for any suggestions you may have.
Depends on the car. On newer more modern cars, you will get some but shouldn't be too much. It's usually related to/caused by 4 things: 1- Over-rev'ing the engine on both upshifts and downshifts. You say you're not doing it but even the odd occasional hitting of the limiter could cause it. 2- Overheating of engine temps. Keep an eye on your Oil Temp. If it goes above 105°C, open the radiator more or if it is rapidly increasing above 105/110, pit. 3- Boost pressure from your turbo. This isn't so much of an issue on modern cars, but it still doesn't mean that you will not get ANY engine wear with them as it is natural for the engine to wear from general use. With the older cars though, higher boost pressures can lead to a lot of degradation rather quickly, so lowering them to allow you to go the distance is advised. Generally, a little bit is fine as you can't really avoid it, but you want to try and keep it minimal if you can. With GT3 cars, I tend to see somewhere between 1-4 engine damage over an hour long race depending on my driving, setup settings, conditions and whats happened in the race, so don't be alarmed if you see 1 or 2 bits picked up over the course of a race unless it is going up reasonably quick.
Yorkie065 thanks for ur feedback. Only just discovered it today. Everything you said made perfect sense, and I've been running too hot I'm thinking. I've been running as high as 240°F, WHUCH IS 110.5°C. WAY TOO hot as you informed me. Thank you for the info. Well done as always. I'm currently watching ur Rain Racing vid from a week or so ago. Peace!
Great thing you are doing this explanatory videos. It think they are mostly rightly balanced for the inexperienced people out there and should help a lot. Definitely a job well done. On a more personal note, If I may ask, how does the engine braking being stronger use up more fuel. That just doesn't sit well with me. As I understood it, if you aren't touching the gas pedal and the engine braking starts, the ECU should cut fuel to the engine untill you need power again...regardless of how much engine braking is set. So could you please explain this part a bit more. Thanks! PS. II: I think I may be mixing between carburated and injection based engines.
No, you’re right in this topic, and both types of fuel injections work the same, the less fuel burned, the more engine braking. Nevertheless, as you have more engine braking you can brake a little later so you’ll be at full throttle longer, but I don’t think it’s enough for weaker engine braking to compensate
Hello man, great video and this is an amazing series to help people like me, new to this game. I have a question and it would be great if you could answer this, my race is tomorrow and I have a 2.4h race around Le Mans with the LMP2 Lijier Nissan. Do you have any recommendations on the number of the radiator opening for this race? I have been trying a few but I don't want to do a 2 hour race just to see if the engine will blow up with 10% setting for example. But I also don't want to be 4-5kph slower on the straights just to be safe. Thanks a lot man
I don't have an exact number but what I would do is test in the hottest conditions that you will get in your race and set the radiator opening for that. Aim to have it go no higher than 105°C and you'll be good for the race. Will then allow you to run in the slipstream of other cars easier in the cooler conditions too without having to worry about your engine getting too hot or losing out on a couple of kph.
Great video. Is it quicker to turn 'auto-clutch' OFF or ON when driving a car with a sequential gearbox? (Touring Cars, Clio Cup, GT3 etc). OFF makes more sense to me but i can't see a difference in lap times on PCARS 2. Thanks
I'm not sure about Project CARS 2, but in Project CARS 1 there was a benefit to having Auto-Clutch OFF in that you had faster shifts. I haven't tested it here in PC2 and instead just run with it OFF as I enjoy the immersion factor of having to manage the clutch to pull away, and then also disengage the clutch in a spin to prevent myself from stalling.
Yorkie065 Thanks for the reply man. I turn it off for the same reasons. I’m pretty sure having it ON is quicker in pcars2 mind. In testing all my laps have been with it turned ON but that may be a coincidence. Thanks again 😎
Can you get lotus 98t to max potencial top speed with gearing??? It says that car has 1300 hp and 348 kph top speed? Can't get more that 326 kph at monza without chicane
Hi Matt, if the engine damage option is off will the cars produce quiker lap times if , for example, engine oil temps are way too high? or is there in fact an optimum performance threshold still in play?
If mechanical damage is off, then lap times can potentially be quicker. It allows players to close up the 'Radiator Opening' in the setup and put it as low as they want, which will reduce drag and improve lap times because of it but of course, they have to make that change in the setup. The engine temperatures will rise, but the engine will never pop. There's no optimum temperature for optimum engine performance from what I am aware.
hey, nice vids btw, on some cars when I adjust the individual gears or final gear ratio it sometimes happens that when I save setup, go in race, restart and want to adjust setup suddenly there are other values than saved..., when it happens with final ratio theres usually a value I cannot even get manually and when I change it to something else and change back then its back to what it should be, when it happens with individual gears it sometimes messes all values to for example all "1"s or something like that... is that a glitch or am I doing something wrong? when I load previously saved setup it goes back to normal, but when I race and go back its screwed again... Ive heard that PC2 is buggy, but this is kind of annoying
Yorkie thanks for the Video, I do however have 1 pertinent question regard traction control which is not quite clear. What is the difference between the low setting and high setting? Default seems to be on low I think. Any clarification on this would be appreciated, thanks!
I believe the difference between high and low is how hard the TC will interfere with the throttle. Low means that the TC will cut the throttle a quarter or so, and High will cut the throttle all together when activated.
It's purely the strength of the TC system being used on the car. whereas the TC slip setting is more akin to it's timing. For example, TC high at 5% would be a strong system that kicks in quickly with little wheel slippage allowance. Opposite to this, say TC low at 20% would mean a soft strength TC system, that kicks in later, allows more wheel slippage before activating.
In short then, TC set at say 5 initiates the traction control pretty much immediately, whereas if you were to increase to 100 your in essence disabling the TC altogether. The higher the number the more wheel slip allowed by the TC before it activates.
Just found this in the FAQs for PCARS2 Forum, always pays to research your questions first. Lol. How does the traction control/TC slip setting in car setup work? With the TC slider you can adjust how much wheel slip is allowed before TC will intervene. The higher the slip value the less intrusive the TC will be. Lower values are generally safer but can slow you down.
