Other types of roofing as well as being able to combine with the playable interiors would be sweet. Thank you so much for all of these wonderful pieces, Kris. These are awesome.
Your channel is SO AWESOME! PLEASE keep making more building related stuff, the ability to build houses/shops/taverns with interior and exterior is a DM's dream come true. THANK YOU!
Glad you enjoying the new 'buildings' series :) If you haven't done so already, you can check out the channel's 'community' page to see what's coming next: ru-vid.comcommunity
YES! I love it! Finally a way to make make buildings that I will actually have time to craft! Thank you so much. Yes, thatched roof, and shingle textures would be great when you can manage it. Those would bring some great variety.
Yeah, I remember building a couple of small houses when I was a lot younger ...and they took me ages to finish (especially waiting for glue/paint to dry).
Kris, there are a few helpful points which I have not seen you make, yet, regarding paper/cardboard modeling: using a brown/gray/black marker for edging the models, to eliminate the white edges of the paper/cardboard; simple, effective, inexpensive, and fast -- will improve the look of the models, immensely. Secondly, full sheet label paper, which eliminates gluing, speeds up production, no moisture to worry about, or wait for things to dry, and it simplifies construction. A box of full-sheet label paper is inexpensive (Amazon.com); it works in both inkjet printers, and laser printers; it is available in 8.5" x 11", as well as A4 sheets. Using a Glue Stick is unnecessary: print, cut to size, peel, apply, and burnish, as usual. I have models which were made with label paper, more than five years ago: no peeling (easy to deal with, using a glue stick, if it ever happens), no issues whatsoever. I make dry-fit's, to make sure everything is cut properly, then I peel an end, or corner, apply, peel the rest, and burnish. Thirdly, the large flat surfaces of 1mm-thick cardboard will warp, over time. If you will not be using the interiors, you can PVA Glue a square wooden dowel inside, end to end of the structure, to avoid warping; which way you glue the dowel, depends upon which way the cardboard is warping. While you can flex the cardboard back, against the warp, by hand, it won't last. The square dowels work extremely well. I've had numerous castle wall models (10+), as well as square towers (8+), and buildings, reinforced with square wooden dowels, which are 10+ years old: no warping. They began warping within a few days, to weeks. By applying the square wooden dowels, I was able to save them -- they are almost perfectly square! Finally, I would highly recommend using a *Low Temperature* Hot Glue Gun! The Low Temperature glue gives a work time of 15+ seconds. High Temperature Hot Glue is too hot (molten), for too long, delaying progress, while you wait for it to harden; it also runs far more than Low Temperature Glue does, as it is much more liquid (less viscous) than Low Temperature Glue. I never use the High Temperature setting on my Hot Glue Guns, as I never need that much work time, or heat. Strength has never been an issue, yet, in the 15+ years I've been using Variable Temperature Hot Glue sticks, on the Low setting of my guns. Cheers!
All very good points indeed :) (I should probably do a video at some point that covers other methods/materials - but when demonstrating these things I tend to favour the cheapest, most accessible materials possible - just to show that you don't really need anything special to get started ...if that makes sense). Buy yeah ...if anyone out there would like to do a video like that, I'd love to see it (I'm totally fine with other folks using the textures in their own videos - so long as they state/link to where they got them from :) ).
Kris, I think that I've mentioned these two things before, but: 1st, I'm old. 2nd, I'm a fifth generation mason. My family built all of those churches -- and many of the older buildings -- that tourists like to visit in the New Orleans French Quarter. IF you wish to get an accurate measurement -- depending on your scale usage -- the chimney needs to rise a minimum of 3 feet above the peek of the roof to get the proper draft. This applies to chimneys located on the ends of buildings -- the gable end, as you've done here. It is a different requirement on the "sides" of the building, depending on the distance from the peek line of the roof. Normally it would need to be about the same height as the peek. Of course, all of this just depends upon how accurate you wish to be in the "construction" of your buildings. I tend to be pretty damn accurate. Old habits are hard to break. LOL And I won't mention the adjustment needed to more accurately replicate a two storied fireplace/chimney combo. Because I love your work and have no interest in discouraging anyone. ;-)
These have worked out roughly right then (height wise ...just about ;) ) ...but the nice thing about these is the that folks can trim them to various sizes (or add bits on - as it just uses the regular 'dungeon wall' texture). I'm also thinking that these would work nicely with 'Bolt Action' (as I have some German and British mini's painted up for that too :) ).
love the design! i wouldnt even worry about interiors honestly. just use these as the outer town but when your party goes into a building toss down the appropriate interior... bigger on the inside and all that
I was wondering how you could "top" the cottage walls from last time and now I see you've done so. I look forward to working with these and also seeing if there's a way to combine them with the interiors. Thank you again for a wonderful product that has given me a great deal of crafting satisfaction. And yes, I look forward to seeing much more of your expansive "to-do" list.
These are beautiful Kris. I'm thinking you can make an interior, then make a slightly larger exterior the fits over the interior like a shell that you can remove when the PCs enter the building.
Thanks. And yeah - the current plan is to try and do some kind of mix between this, and the last video. So you'd lift up the roof and 2 attached walls, thus revealing something similar to the piece I made in 'cottage walls' video.
Although I already had a sneak peak on discord i must say that seeing the process of how the buildings were made is really satisfying. As always, I love the little bits at the end where you show alternate combinations, very nice! I would really like to see 2 or 3 different roof textures and maybe 2 or 3 more "wall" designs to get a bit of variety.
I can just agree with the croud. This looks awesome, and I will definitely be using some in my projects. I am looking to have it "openable", so that the players can enter the house as well.
I love this! Damn I wish I was in the old bigger house before we downsized; I had workspace there and I don't have anything suitable where I am now that isn't a right royal pain in the arse! I used to hand draw and colour my own maps and buildings back in the day and these would have been so much more handy and save a lot of work! BRILLIANT. I love the idea of thatched and slate roofing, etc, as I was watching you put the roof on I was thinking a thatched option would be nice as well, and then you said it. Far thinking for impressive modelling options.
Yep ...these clay tiles were the easiest to draw - so a good choice for testing things out. Now that I know that the idea works pretty well ...I can delve a little deeper into it :)
02:34 At this point I paint the cut edges of the components with a felt pen. Then you can no longer see the edges. 😉 Thank you very much for the great templates.
A cool thing you can do with these is cut out or score some windows to make them open and then put a led tea light inside. Makes it look like the fireplace inside is burning. It does need to be dark in the room though.
Recently revisiting this video. Wanted some buildings that I could make easily, and store easily. Working on making the roof separate and being able to collapse the bottom square shape by folding the corners. Would definitely be interested in seeing you revisit building textures or trying out other structures like castle walls.
There's lots of stuff I want to get back to (or expand upon) - it's just the usual problem of finding the time to do it all :) I'll get there eventually though :)
You da man 👍👍 This must be the only channel in wich I watch videos from start to finish... oh... maybe jangbricks too... oops 😁 but... yours I watch more than once... way more... really enjoy them. Must be cause of how you make simple easy stuff to build... look so darn amazing. You are an incredible artist... in every way. great job 👍😁
I'd love to see alternate roof types, also have you done playable interiors walls for buildings? If so I'll have to hunt them down, if not then that could also be a future project :) Thanks again for ALL the great textures!
Once again, amazing work and so practical! I would only add that for additional stability you might cut a third piece of corrugated cardboard the same shape and size as you end pieces to hot glue in the CENTER of the building. Beautiful work. Have you done any ground textures? Thanks again!
The best way to make the interiors of a building playable is to build the four walls and the floor ABOVE. See how it's done in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yAkRmJD3HY8.html
That was amazing, I really love it! One question, do you use an ink tank printer for your projects? I'm thinking about buying one, and your advise will really help. and... Bravo Chris
@@CrookedStaffTerrain Sweet! mine are a little blue, unless I'm using shady brand #2 which ballanced but too dark! b.t.w: how can I send you some pictures? I want to share this something that I made with you, if you like.
I know this is old, but do you think you'd be able to do a combination of these buildings plus the actual inside house decorations with a removable roof, allowing players to play both outside and inside a room? Not sure if this exists elsewhere or how unrealistic it might be.
