Epoxy Countertops DIY Tutorial: How To Mix & Pour Bar Top Epoxy Resin Self Levling 

Clear, direct, and simply extrained video. It will be very helpful in my projects!

Great tutorial, thanks for the explanation about useing heat!

Great tutorial, Thank you for sharing. I am just starting to experimenting with resin and it's so much fun.

This was a really well done video. Great job.

Thanks for the extra ideas.. Im currently working with Epoxy as well... thanks

I happened to purchase this brand of epoxy for my kitchen counter transformation and with your instructions I had zero problems with drying and the product is perfectly clear. Thank you so much for your videos.

I followed your directions and even picked up on the fact that you used a sanding sealer for cedar in another video. I used one prior to applying the epoxy to my coffee bar (almost no air bubbles to deal with) and it turned our beautiful. I posted pictures with my product review on Amazon. Thanks for the advice for my first pour.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Excellent tutorial, thanks

Before starting on the epoxy coating to our 8" (W) x 70' (L), I researched the heck out of instructional videos; that makes me an expert reviewer! YOURS IS THE VERY BEST! (gloved!) hands-down, the best. Now, wish me luck!

Thanks much for simply showing the use of the heat gun; it's what I have, but don't usually see that for epoxy

i messed up my initial seal coat had to sand till bubles wer down then put the flood on and it was nice... i didnt add a third layer but over all im happy with my first table top with epoxy

Great video! Appreciate it!

Great video man I want to start learning how to pour epoxy cause you can style it anyway and this helped alot

One could become an expert on anything by reading the instructions.

This is a great video, very easy to understand! I hope you can help me, though. We are doing a 6' pine table for outdoors, using Epoxy Resin and then exterior varnish (a lot of coats). However, my husband applied oil based stain to the bottom to test the color of the pine. I read comments below that you can't use oil based stain. What could I put on top of the stain to be able to use the epoxy? Second, have you ever done the exterior varnish on top of resin, and do you recommend it? Lastly, (sorry!), given our project, do you have a recommendation for the product to use? THANK YOU!!!!

Thank you so much for this video. If I wait more than 4 hours between the sealcoat and flood code, is that okay?

Hi ! I’m trying to do a live edge charcuterie and cutting board. Both rounds have bark still attached which I would like to keep. They also both have cracks. What is a good food safe brand I can use to fill the cracks and put on the bark for extra hold? Or is there a better way to deal with the cracks that’s food safe? Thank you, looking forward to your response!

Thinking of using for the first time an epoxy resin to my garage countertops, yes I will be using new sheeting, What I am wondering is colour, can epoxy resin be used on top of a “wood stained” surface or can I buy a wood coloured look pigment ? Basically I am looking to add the colour or splash of colour to match that of my cupboards trim which is ( espresso) the panels of my cupboard doors are birch which will be the same as my new bench top, but I would like to add a swirl of espresso to my bench top before the pour. Thanks and I hope you can understand the jest of my question. Cheers and thanks for the great video.

great stuff ,

I wish I would have moved faster + finished my door/dining table indoors during the warm summer months. The procrastination has been okay as I've learned some important steps here. Gardening folks also use a blow torch to kill weeds. I'm in!

Awesome! Is the Flood coat mixed just as the Seal coat? Same 1:1 ratio, mixing time and everything? Thanks !

Do you have a demo of you doing the flood coat? I'm struggling on how to properly and evenly cover the sides.

Looks like you're pouring on your countertop, did you just let the excess drip off onto it? How did you clean up afterwards? Thank you for the video and for answering questions!

Great video. In some comments I notice you state that epoxy should not be poured over table with oil based stain. The table I am going to epoxy does have an oil based stain already. Is there a good way to prep this table to take an epoxy pour ? Thank you.

Gonna pore epoxy for the first time over a charred counter top, any recommendation of specific epoxy for it?

Goods experience epoxy work

Hi, I have one question, when you mixed the epoxy that u used for first basic layer, did you leave the same remaining mixture waiting 4 hours in small bucket, and re-use it later for second layer, or did you made a new mixture for second layer ? Because i dont know what will happen to my remaining epoxy mixture when i apply only the basic layer. Should i throw it away, does it harden in next 4 hours and i have to make new mixture, i cant find the answer anywhere on internet.

Really nice video , good quality content. Except their were a few nuggets that weren't highlighted enough. Letting seal coat go tacky. Contamination in air Contamination in mixing pot Pour thickness. This resin stuff is awsome and when you know how to handle it easy to work with, get it wrong and prepare to stsrt digging deep into your wallet! Thanks for uploading , look forward to seeing more of your projects.

Will this product fill voids, knots and cracks? How deep of a voids is fillable?

great video. If a piece of wood has been sealed with a sanding sealer or shellac, does that have to be removed to can you apply the resin over it?

I applied some epoxy to a piece of olive wood recently. I mixed it all correctly according to the ratios however I have found that in some small areas (mainly on the sides) the epoxy is still tacky. It's fully cured on top so I'm confused as to why only certain areas would be tacky? Thanks for this video though!

I’m using some leftover vinyl plank flooring to make a small kitchen table. Is it possible to pour the epoxy over the vinyl successfully?

If I planning to epoxy over beer caps for my bar table, how long between coats to get the right thickness?

Can you pour this over a clear acrylic sheet that covers the table? We have various items underneath the sheet.

Great video and thanks for sharing. We made a living room end table with a black epoxy river and we trying to decide on the final finish. If we decide to use the seal coat and flood coat as our finish, we will have to lightly sand the black epoxy. Will my sand marks show through a clear epoxy seal coat and the flood coat? My other question is would you use epoxy to finish the living room end table. We want the final finish to be strong, not easily scratched and won't leave watermarks. Should I be using some kind of wax finish instead? What do you recommend?

I am going to clear coat a cross section piece of oak that i have inlaid a checker board in. I am confused by something. How do you handle the edges during the flood coat and what does the bottom look like and what do you do to make it smooth? thanks

I'm going to try to make an outdoor table top out of Oriented Strand Board and then put epoxy on top. How should I prepare the OSB before I put on the first sealer coat? And on the flood, did you just let it self-level or did you spread the flood coat and just not show that process?

Hi There! I recently 'finished' a job that looks pretty good, but I noticed the epoxy tabletop surface is slightly off-level. The tabletop has been cured for a little over a week and generally looks good. Is it possible/worth the effort to pour a top coat to level it off? And how should I go about doing that?

I am using the same epoxy used in this video, is it necessary to stir the compounds separate then in another container mix again?

nice

You did not mention how to finish the bottom of the edges where it dripped. How do we fix that part of the icicles hanging down? Thanks

Thanks 👍🏼

@Epoxy DIY: I've read when staining a wood countertop, it is highly recommended to "seal" the bottom surface - usually done first and then flipped over. The reason is to prevent cracking of the wood over time. Should we plan on sealing the bottom of the counter top with this epoxy? Especially if it's wood? Last question: how do you clean up the "poor over" sides? Seems like a lot of dripping to clean up.

Would I be able to use on a clean wood bar top that has hundreds of pennies placed on it ? Thanks for a great video.

Very helpful. I want to do a mahogany countertop, so I'm wondering how to deal with the edges on the underside: How to adequately coat the underside edges and how to minimize dripping along the bottom edges. Do I sand those down, or how do I deal with them?

Can this be applied to a full bullnosed edge? If so, what steps do I need to take?

I'm going to epoxy over analine dyed maple countertop, not crazy about the high gloss. Is there a way to matte or satin the finish without it just being hazy? Also the countertop near the kitchen window, is there a uv block additive so it doesn't yellow over time?

Is there an algorithm for determining how much epoxy is used per square inch/ft of counter top?

Can you use another sponge brush for the flood coat? Mine was not even the first pour and i want to do it within the 4-6 hours window to avoid sanding.

For filling cracks and small voids in wood, is your epoxy ok to thicken with cabosil?

The last coat - after curing - you called it "flood pour" is that what you said? And is it just the same mixture / resin mixture you started with or some sort of "finishing coat?" I'm a beginner sorry so many questions, I'm trying to understand how much product or what products are being used at what stage of the project. Thanks for your time and help!!!

i hope im not too late to get a response here. my son has asked me to seal and protect an expensive table with table/countertop epoxy. this was a great video but i do have one question. i have seen other tutorials where the presenter sands with a 220 grit inbetween the seal coat and the flood coat. is there wisdom in this? are there any specific situations where i should sand inbetween?

Hi sorry if this has already been answered. First off, great video! Second for the flood coat I noticed you pour everywhere in much larger quantities, don't seem to spread with a tool and don't seem to heat it up. Is that correct? Goal is to let the epoxy 'flood' and dry on its own and should come out clear / smooth on its own?

Thank you for sharing your knowledge - very informative. I have a question please. Did you use the same batch of epoxy mix for the flood coat as you used for the seal coat? I was wondering about this as you mentioned you need to wait for 4 hours. We are undertaking a refurbishment to our bar top in the pub we run (here in the UK) and it will be the first time either of us have used epoxy, therefore, will definitely do a test piece as you suggested. We will be staining the wood we purchased first then applying epoxy over the stain. Would welcome any advice you have. Cheers, Mrs Jay Topham

Is it possible to pour this epoxy over a board painted with a gloss enamel black paint?

looking at using the East Coast Resins, crystal clear epoxy that I have purchased for a table top. have you, or anyone out there used this product and is there any specific information I should know about the product before I get started (process, hazard precautions, etc..). the research on the product, has a lot of good reviews however the company has limited info into the product (basic website). starting to second guess my choice in using this product..... thoughts?

Would it be ok if I just coat it once and stop there? Or is the 2nd coat required?

Trying to figure out why you would need to pour into a second new container to finish mixing when you just mixed your epoxy in a new container.

Hey, have you had a chance to try other brands? I saw your website and saw that you have mentioned us.

Great video, not sure if this question was asked but can you do this application over a piece of wood that already has a polyurethane finish already applied. Thanks for videos great help.

With the new coat did you spread the same way or just let it sit?

I have built 2 branches from solid oak barn wood which will be coated with a standard extreme weather gloss because they will be outdoors. However, I am mounting surfboards as the back rest and have been considering using epoxy. I have never used epoxy before. I read your reviews and saw that the one used in this video would be better than the rest for UV exposure, but would not be good for all day everyday exposure. I am attempting to find something that will give a nice thick coat to the board that will keep it from being so easily dented and will add strength on top of the brace I inserted in the back for mounting. Do you have any suggestions on what I could do. Thank you.

Thank you for this! Super thorough and informative! I do have a question though. I have an old piano that I don't use. I've been thinking about taking the sound board out of it with the strings still on and pouring over it to make a really cool coffee table piece. My worry is getting the epoxy in the strings without having air bubbles. Any tips on that kind of project?

Great video; very informative! A friend said to use heat to lose the bubbles, but I was not sure of best approach, so thanks for that! A few questions relating to my kitchen island project, which has a "Baltic Birch" substrate. (1) These epoxy formulations seem pretty inherently likely to stick to most surfaces; can they be placed over an existing [sound/fresh] finish such as satin-lustre conventional polyurethane? Just thinking that if I don't have the confidence to do this to my actual $$ surface without some practice, but I need to get the countertop into service with or without it, can I apply a finish to at least keep it from depreciating in the meantime? (1a) I assume the presence of a light / wiped-on "grain accent stain" is not a problem either way? I noted your mention below of avoiding an oil-based substrate finish, but I definitely want an accent color under the pour. (2) Is this epoxy material "post-machinable" like structural epoxies? That is, if I do what I'm describing in my question (3), can I finally shape the edge with my router (obviously after FULL cure to achieve hardness), for example a bevel, quarter/corner-round, ogee, etc, without softening and gumming or otherwise compromising the epoxy, and if so can it be buffed to a similar lustre as the virgin pour? If this can work, I intend to finally finish the edge by sanding and varnish, or an edge seal coat of the same epoxy to make the entire feature spill-proof. (3) You were using beautiful natural forms, but my project is a machined plan shape with a square edge profile. Can I expect to succeed if I create a "pan" type feature with a temporary surround (such as a ribbon of formica or plastic around the edge of my otherwise flat substrate) so the "flood coat" can be poured without runoff, and subsequently remove the surround (after only curing enough to stop sagging)? Note that the temporary feature does not have to come unstuck "nicely" from the epoxy if the answer to my question (2) is affirmative; I intend for the edges to reveal the Baltic Birch plies via routing and sanding as necessary, and the top to maintain flood coat thickness right to the edge for subsequent shaping. (4) Is there a maximum depth that this epoxy can be flooded in a single pour? In other words, assuming a seal coat has been done and given the [4-hour] requisite pre-cure, how thick can the flood coat be? I'm looking to reach a 3/16"-1/4" depth to nearly match height with a couple of "thus inlaid" large porcelain tiles (essentially functioning as built-in trivets), which will initially be appropriately set to the substrate (e.g., mastic or thin-set mortar). I intend to capture some 3-dimensional items such as pieces of mica and/or flat sections of birch bark in the flood pour and I am seeking to confirm the feasibility of this.

I have a coffee table that measures 36" x 24" with a laminate top and a jigsaw puzzle that will cover it. I want to pour epoxy over the table with the puzzle in it to make a permanent top with the picture. Any advise on pouring over what is essentially cardboard? Also, I don't want drips over the edge that I have to sand off and risk hurting the table since it's already made. I have seen others use sheathing tape and silicone spray for easy release in epoxy molds. Would that be a good way to protect the edge of the table and help the drips remove cleanly?

What do u do to the containers ? Throw them? Wash them?

Have u done it on osb

After your seal coat has set for 4 hours, did you use the same batch for the floor coat of mix a new batch for that?

If I wanted to stain the wood before, what kind of stain should I use?

I have a countertop that I want to epoxy but but there are some deep cracks/holes/knots in the top. I think these will look great under the epoxy finish but would like some idea about how to go about filling them before I apply the sealer coat to the rest of the piece. Also, did you do anything to level the epoxy during the flood coat or was this self leveling?

I am flooding a table with 1-4” cracks in it.... how do I calculate for those?

I’m a Artist, and think about using a resin to pour over my art. Is there a smaller container that I could get in the resin that you used? I’ve small painting. Thank you I really like your video.

Hey I tried to coat a farmhouse table that was built for us. It was my first time and looks "tacky". Would doing a flood pour fix my uneven coat or should I do something else to fix. One the table is uneven to begin with; it also has different textures in the wood grain. However the person that built it has passed so we are trying to keep it in its original form but we had a house fire so we wanted to coat it in case I didn't scrub all the soot off that coated it.

Can you just do the sealing coat, without the actual pour coat?

I have a flag painted table top with gaps between each board. How would you suggest I approach epoxying it and is it even feasible? Great video

You say the air temp should be 75 to 80 degrees when pouring. Upon pouring the flood coat does it need to remain that warm for 24 hours?

Hi. Can we rinse out the stir containers and reuse or do we have to use new ones each time? If using new ones each time, that is a LOT of WASTED PLASTIC! Great video. Thanks in advance!😊 Also, is there a type of epoxy resin that doesn’t require a room between 70° to 80°? That’s just a huge concern of mine because I don’t know that I would have access to that.

Is there a way to get a matte finish on timber countertop? We are thinking of waterproof the timber with epoxy, but do not want the gloss finish. Any suggestions?

Great video thanks. I am doing a college sports bar top and embedding memorabilia insides like laminated tickets, buttons, newspaper clippings, etc. I did a practice run on a test piece and it worked well but I did have one question. Because this is a large project (30sf) I will need one or two people to help with the flood coat work, mixing next batch while pouring, heating, etc so I would like to prep as much as possible and scheduling may be tough. If I do a seal coat can that fully cure before I do the flood coat or should it be done relatively soon? My test piece was done 24 hours apart from seal to flood, can I go longer? Like a week, or more? Or should it be done within the 72 hours during curing?

I'm building a 7ft long, 3 1/2ft wide kitchen table for my wife. Pine 2×6's. Approx. How much epoxy would you estimate I may need? It's around $60 for the resin and catalyst.

So, let the expoxy drip over the sides? Is there any edge clean up required?

How do you deal with drips

how would you get light scratches out of epoxy ... Very light scratches?

I was going to use foil tape as a dam around the edge, but not sure how to use with two coats. Can I brush the seal coat as you did, then after 4 hours apply foil tape around the perimeter edge to pour the flood coat, or would this mess up the seal coat finish? Perhaps I should just let the flood coat overflow, brush the sides and sand any excess drips after hardening? Also, do we use the torch on flood coat as well? FYI we’re finishing a desk made from two live edge oak slabs. Thanks so much!!

Not sure if this has been asked yet, is this epoxy food safe?

How do I know how many square foot a gallon of mixed resin will cover? I am doing a dinning room table that is 72x38 inches.

Hi, great video. I was wondering if the temperature can be higher than the range you mentioned? I'm doing a tabletop and have to finish it in my garage, which is not climate controlled and I live in the south where it's quite hot. Could I reasonably do the tabletop with temperatures of over 80 or 85?

Can I apply this product over a conversion varnish table

can the epoxy be applied over polyurethane?

Is there a formula to know how much epoxy to prepare before making the mix?

Did you have a hard time putting the gloves on...hahaha. I understand . No offense I thought it was funny. Loved the video

I poured epoxy and after 2-3 weeks it didn't hardend. What did i do wrong? I pour it in an christmas tree ball. It was 2A 1B epoxy. So 2-1.

I have done very similar with Woodglut designs.

On that "sealer" coat stage WHY mix up so much resin? what a waste.

My adventure with the tree began with projects from Woodprix.