Wow!. It takes a very confident person to admit they have made a mistake. It takes an even bigger person to share them with others. You, sir, are the king. Thank you for sharing your experiences.
If I have found this video before… just tried to do my kitchen countertops two days ago and the epoxy was inside of the car and we thought that a “hot epoxy” would be a good idea and it would spread better 🥲 so frustrating. Thank you for sharing your mistakes, now I can avoid them when I decide to do the floors 😊
Literally after you explained #3 I get an ad for Stone Coat Epoxy. "Is your surface burnt, cracked, chipped or peeling? Don't toss it out! Cover it with epoxy!" Lmao
I am contemplating an epoxy application to my garage floor. After learning a good bit of the process for a successful DIY application from a good number of other relative video this certainly adds more to consider. Great informative video I'm definitely adding to my knowledge library. Thank you
Then there was they guy who stole epoxy paint from the painter on the job. He forgot to steal the hardener. The painter then hid the hardener and then a couple of weeks later the general contractor came to him asking if he knew why paint wouldn’t dry in his basement. “ because you’re a thief!!!” Was his answer
For #9, forgetting to mix A and B: I’ve only done 2 garages DIY (minimal experience)...one was easy, one was big...for the big one since I had to mix 5 batches, I NUMBERED each bottle of A/B before starting to avoid mis-mixing. I was using a 2:1 ratio product, but it came in full gallons, so I had A1.1 and A1.2 to mix with B1, then A2.1 and A2.2 for B2, A3.1 and A3.2 for B3, etc. The first project took 15 gallons total, 10 A and 5 B plus I used pigments in some (both metallics and pearl) and used a mica/glitter in one batch. From the way you described the hell created by not mixing right, that Sharpie marker might have saved a lot of work and expense!
I think it's different when you have multiple workers and you expect a little bit of more common-sense from each of them. I'm a professional painter and I also have people working for me and you wouldn't believe what type of mistakes some people make.
Darn mechanical errors. I found a little secret with adhesion over failed concrete. Cut material in half with solvent so that it impregnate the surface like a fluid. But let it cure before finishing coat. Thanks for video 👍
I had a friend whom I knew since the mid 1960s. His business was commercial epoxy flooring. Most of his work was in abattoir's - various food processing & Manufacturing plants - Commercial kitchens - Bars - food storage and other warehouse areas. Many of these jobs were for Multi-National CORPORATIONS. I do not recall the Resin Manufacturer, however I do recall that the resin was food grade, and manufactured in Germany - also very expensive and came in 50 US gallon drums. I did some sales fro him as English was not his first language. He passed away 8 weeks before 9/11, and I saw him 3 days before he died. Cause of death: Cancer The floors looked magnificent when finished. These Food production CORPORATIONS kept the floors so clean one could eat off of them.
Thanks for the vid. Great info. I am a commercial painter who has an opportunity to do a large epoxy floor in the coming weeks and I am looking for all the education I can get. Considering your training course to start with. I have a bit of a silly question, I am in the US and was wondering if the epoxy you use will be easy enough for me to get my hands on? If the training will apply to all epoxy products. Thanks
Thanks for your kind words, and good luck with the project! The training applies to all epoxy products, I hardly mention my products as I understand that it is hard to get these products outside of Europe.
Great video. I'll be hoping to pour a clear resin on a timber floor with some posters and ticket memorabilia in my mancave quite soon, I'm unsure with how best to seal the timber though, I'm thinking pva sealer but unsure at the moment if that's the way to go, anyone done this before? If yes I'd appreciate tips.
Do a seal coat before going all in. Just a light coat and let it cure completely. Wood is so porous that if you don’t start with a seal coat of resin AIR will bubble up thru the resin EVERYWHERE when you go for it all at once and then it’s done. The only way around it is if you know the wood is less than 5 - 10% moisture content.. and you’d need a meter to know. Also, by doing a seal coat 1st it will allow a space for your memorabilia to ‘sit’ just above the wood.. if you just poured resin on and then laid down your pieces they would sink to the bottom finding their level. Unless you’re experienced with timing/waiting on the particular resin you use viscosity, having a cured layer underneath will serve 2 purposes. Depending on what the dimensions are & what resin you use, you could possibly do the 2nd layer in a couple of hours (3 - 4 hours) it needs to be at the stage where you can leave a fingerprint but not sticky enough to pull up strings when you touch it lightly. In both pours a heat gun or torch is necessary to remove air bubbles out at 8- 10 minute intervals for the first half hour.. just waving back & forth at about 6-10 inches you’ll see them popping like magic.
monkey trousers Also, I find it best to take good copies of my memorabilia and keep the originals, you may need them for another day! Before placing them into the resin have them LAMINATED! Without laminating them they will soak up the liquid and look WETTED & see thru. You can laminate them with simple packing tape.. be sure to extend past the edges a little bit all around ON ALL SIDES SO THE TAPES TOUCH each other and seal burnish with a plastic sharpie edge or something that won’t scratch .. this will keep the resin out. I usually lay down a strip of tape face up & flat and then lay my piece onto it.. then cover it with another piece of tape face down.. then trim with scissors leaving a little overhang all around. It will be invisible in the resin. With larger pieces do several strips of packing tape overlapping slightly .. or buy laminate sheeting. Start with a smaller board to test with and when you know you have everything right go for it! Any other questions or concerns I can assist with, I’d be happy to help ✌️Hope you have great results!
A new subscriber & like of course, Thank you so much for sharing this amazing tips and your experience, really appreciate it sir, wish you all the best 👍
⚠️desperately need help⚠️ : i had white tile floors that i accidentally painted black with wall paint, which now is chipping off whenever the floor is scratched, therefore i want to cover it up with white epoxy paint, is it okay to leave the black chipping paint without sanding it?
Tiles are notorious for poor bonding. If you apply epoxy on top of peeling paint everything will peel away together! You need to sand the paint, sand the tiles and then coat epoxy
@learningCoatings, I have a video of Nepal where we did 3D epoxy flooring. After applying the topcoat i found some layers on topcoat look like a matt finish. how you can guid me on this? where can i send you that video? Please help me
After watching this, I’m wondering if I’m going to have a problem shipping it to the Caribbean where the weather is about 90 degrees. It will be stuck in custom and the ship. Will I have a problem once I get it ready to install? 😱
I think if the part A & part B get hot while they're in transit, it shouldn't be a big deal. The problem described in the video was that the A&B were very hot when mixed together, which caused the hardener to work too quickly. If the material is cooled down before you use it/mix it, it should be fine.
That is no problem. I regularly ship to countries in the middle East where the goods might spend two weeks in storage under 45 degrees celsius. Just make sure before you apply that they have been put in room temperature for a few days
if possible yes. But often, practical reasons don't make it possible. For example if you are applying an entire floor in a commercial space, there may not be any storage space to prime the floor on the first day and leave the goods in an area that will not be primed.
I always discourage customers with no epoxy knowledge from attempting their own floors. These sound like nightmares even for pros who are equipped to fix their mistakes, imagine a beginner making one of these mistakes and having no idea about safety or how to fix it
I cannot remember last time I have f… up so badly but seems like I just made disaster no. 9 Instead I did add prt B but it turned out I haven’t mixed it properly.
Never been a fan of applying on wood floors although some people claim that it works. Have a look here at my video on the subject ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-x_nI_Q6B6x8.html
You can check out this thing called stone carpet. It's basically gravel like stones mixed with epoxy that form a pretty cool looking surface. However you need to mix the gravel into the epoxy don't try just pouring on top
So how did you prepare for the rain water ?? Check the forecast ? Tarps? Water deversion sand bags ? And on the sticky epoxy did you only have to remove just that section ? I'd really appreciate how you managed to save these floors and still keep your customer happy
For rain water I recommend do not do any floor projects unless the building has been properly sealed and waterproofed. With sticky epoxy we only removed that section of the floor and fixed it
We have seen the mix itoms of wood & epoxy resins, the person scrub the epoxy & wood, later both give good shine. if we scrub the damage part of epoxy floor what will happen?
Hey guys any of you knows about the name of the equipment needed to do epoxy flooring .. I’m talking about one of those sanders that have a vacuum included but I don’t know the name
@@learncoatings-epoxyfloorin9448 I appreciate the information. We are looking for for a concrete grinder but didn’t know if any good brands so it’s good to hear your recommendation thank you
Hi. I just finished doing my 2nd coat for my bathroom tiles and already start using it after wait for 2 days but it left kinda white spot/mark when the water dry. So I just wondering whether I have apply epoxy wrongly or it just happen cuz it still new😅
@@learncoatings-epoxyfloorin9448 I do. But it still leave those white dust/mark 😥 I google bout this problem & many suggest to try vinegar + water. If it still doesn't work, I don't know what to do anymore😭
It is always deisrable to do the floor in one go. This will make the floor look seamless. Obviously in very large floor areas this is not possible. But if you break up the floorin several parts you will have visible seams
Yes but it requires good grinding and the right type of primer. Have a look at this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gRIoNyurzSM.html
@@learncoatings-epoxyfloorin9448 acetone was 1 of my options but had not gotten to test it, as you can imagine at $100 a box and only 60 min window of work time, i had only been able to test Xylene and MEK on 1 sheet of flooring. I will be laying down 4 more boxes on my 1st side where i made a mistake and had to remove 2 bags of the clear coats and start over to have the same volume of material so the 2 sides of the garage floor would in theory match seamlessly. Thank you for your lead on the acetone, i may as well try denatured alcohol on my test board at the same time. Yes i enjoy learning. Preferably not at my own expense, but, I think I remember it longer if it is at my own expense
Also, any suggestions as to time? As far as how long after i have it layed down and all swirling is completely done, asap at that point or is it better to wait 20, 40 or even longer?
I am not that experienced with metallics and swirling, I just thought I'd mention faster drying solvents as I know that many metallics professionals prefer them
You can pay by credit card or paypal at the link here smallbizcontracting.thrivecart.com/learn-epoxy-floors If you do not have these, we can arrange that you send the money manually by western union, moneygram or bitcoin. Contact me at akis at learncoatings dot com for arrangements
The best solution is to take it out and apply a new screed. But most people avoid this as it is a massive hassle and tends to slow down project progress
Looking at your video it look easy to get it done but is their a specific time for adding the second colour never saw it done does any sanding required to get the shiny looks? Need a urgent ans
To answer your questions a) each coat was applied on different ideas, you usually need 12-24 hours for the next coat to be coatable, although this timeframe will differ depending on the product and the temperature. b) no you can't really polish Epoxy, you basically apply the self leveling epoxy and wait for it to dry
@@learncoatings-epoxyfloorin9448 Thank you very much for your respond I just love looking at you guys works really fantastic hoping one day I can do,it's such a beauty,keep it up
Sounds like some rookie mistakes Alway bring you product into the working space Being organized and setting your products out into a pouring system before you start pouring anything
I really appreciate you telling and showing us all the problems that you have run in to. Not many individuals would admit making a mistake and then showing them to the public. Thank You for being honest and admitting "everyone makes mistakes."
I was just thinking of great of an idea it would be to leave the garage door open just a little. Thank you for sharing. It is also pollen season where I am, and I do not want a green floor.
Don’t use heaters that generate carbon emissions to keep your winter slabs warm while they set up. The tops of the slab will pop due to a chemical reaction that keeps the Portland molecules from properly adhering to each other and the aggregate.
I do epoxy & decorative concrete coatings for a living. Very few jobs in epoxy are problem free. Everyone of your issues I have had too but that is how we learn!
Great examples. I was considering doing a DIY epoxy job in our large basement. Now I know better. I'll hire an expert, and I'll have my interview questions ready based on these10 Epoxy Flooring Disasters!
Lol I had a major epoxy disaster here on my kitchen countertop a few days ago! I didn’t properly mix the liquid and it never cured properly. Completely ruined my wife’s artwork. The clean-up was messy and difficult! We will do it again but properly tonight!
Thank you for the sharings and eye opening examples instead of just the perfect /fast/easy/trouble-free one! . i have to say, this is why we need professionals like you who can and will fix these headaches (if and when they occur) !
Im a Journeyman waterproof whos installed several million sq ft of epoxy flooring,heres a tip for filing cracks in concrete,do not use caulkings,buy several rolls of the yellow polyester fabric used to reinforce plaster & drywall mud,fill the crack with epoxy and put a coat of epoxy 4 inches on each side of the crack,rub the fabric into the fresh epoxy and lightly coat the fabric,come back the next day & your floor cracks will be fixed and never reopen again,you can buy 36" wide rolls of the reinforcement fabric to install between layers of epoxy before top clear coating , we use reinforcement fabric over all heavy forklift traffic floors & the floors never crack & peel.
Many thanks for sharing. We learn from our mistakes very well. My first pour on counter tops. I Needed one gallon all together for the section I was doing. I learned the hard way not to let epoxy sit to long in large one gallon buckets. I learned to pay strict attention to what the temperature is of the epoxy. I took way to long mixing in my colors it was an exotic dirty pour complex . I mixed for like 12 minutes and stepped out side for 3 more minutes. Came in started pouring and I noticed the bottom of the bucket was ( WOW BUBBLING HOT ) ! loved the first half of the pour from the gallon bucket but the last half from the bucket was like soft putty. Looking back I should have just taken a putty knife and scraped it all off. But nope wife comes home from being out of town for a week and is well lets just say shocked...... I tried to save it and the next day it took me 3 to 4 hours to grind it off....Our next pours were all small mixes do it as fast as possible and pour, small mixes fast and pour. flawless.
Sarfaraj Khan Sarfraz Khan no help kar sakeingey .mujhe chips wala floor paint karna hai centre room hai..badha hai..gadhey hain chottey chottey kaunsa Pain t aur primer kaunsa..kuch help karein pls..??
