I miss you so much buddy 😥 you were always my favorite Channel and will always be my favorite ❤️ but God do I miss you so much 😢 I hope you are in a happy place 🙏
Nice video JC. I've got an idea for a repair video. How about a video showing how to repair a board that s had one of its solder pads ripped off. I know most of the time it's unrepairable, but it's possible to tap a wire directly to the last component the solder pad was connected to. It's a bit ghetto, but it's saved me waiting time and money. Most of the time I can just see and follow the trace on the board to find out where it went. Other times its just obvious. anyway, just an idea.
drumrboynoid I had to solder the negative power wire for my littlebee esc onto the legs of a chip that was next to the ground pad that tore off, it's been flying great and I've had no issues at all with it. JC's videos are great, I wish that he would be able to answer my question I posted on here regarding my x4r, as I want to try fixing it, but I'm not sure what type of diode it was that went up in smoke.
Hi could you also do diagnosis as well for esc,s etc so we can all learn what parts are faulty I have an esc that just stops at random powering the motor and would like to know how to trouble shoot it so the parts can be replaced many thanks Kev
Nice video, I enjoy your repair series :-) However, you don't really have to figure out the actual capacitance in this specific case (main input bank on ESCs). Just put on as much as you can fit for the size. What is important is that you get ones that can take the voltage (battery voltage plus a healthy margin).
Thats true. Any size will work and the bigger the better. I just know some guys want the exact size so I turned it into a lesson. But you are correct, the bigger the better and as long as the voltage rating supports it.
Good stuff! For those of us with just a soldering iron, would would you recommend going about this process? I might have access to a rework station at a local maker space, but the guys there aren't too friendly :/
dude any tips on how to prevent neighboring components from shifting away? for example: you need to get a component out of a mobula6 highly populated board without everything melting away on you? putty?
❤ Awesome video I don't have any of the paste stuff. Is there a way around that?😂 Maybe just put some blobs of solder on each side... And also, can I use a jet lighter? All I have is a regular soldering iron.😂
hi jc i have some simonk escs i tried to flash with blheli when i was doing it the led on them started dimming and now they don't work any ideas? ps thanks for all your help keep it up.
Hello my friend, thank you as always for your tutorials. I liked this video a lot, but what I want to know is, why would you change a capacitor on your esc? There is some specific issue related to a bad capacitor? Like stuttering, brown out, or similar issues? An high five from Italy
Capacitors dont really go bad. They just break off often, especially if you dont use a ESC protector and just have a zip tie on heat shrink. The zip ties will break them off easy. So this is just for if you're missing any
Yea I should have clarified. When I said the caps dont really go bad I meant the ceramic caps. With the tantalum caps you can visually see when they are bad because like Joe said, they explode or pop.
usually what happens is the caps fall off when bad crashes happen. In one of my quads I found a capacitor stuck to the eletrical tape while disassembling.
The only time I had a problem with a capacitor, was a 220uf Polarized. I heard a loud pop while it was hovering and the quad started to behave very funny. when i opened the quad (I use almost always sandwich type frame) it was a mess inside: The capacitor puked all of its content on the ESC and I had to take it off, for cleaning and changing the capacitor.
What temperature do you typically run your hot air station? trying to figure out an ideal temperature thats not high enough to damage, but not low enough to never melt the solder.
Nice video man, I have a couple things that I need to surface mount solder components onto them here, but I don't have the tools to find out what the rating is of the components. I really want to fix them though, mainly my x4r receiver, a small diode went up in smoke on me, it is screened D3 right next to where the diode was on the pcb, do you have any x4r's that you could check to see what sort of diode it is that I need to sort it? Thanks in advance
Hey could you do a video on VTX pigtail repairs, I have broken several of them and I'm tired of paying to replace them!! SMA pigtail for the TBS Unify PRO 5G8
how about one to show us how to figure out WHAT in the esc is fried..I have two KISS esc I'd like to fix but dont know where to start. I fried one trying to flash it ..the positive lead touched a component...the other one I dont know what i did.
hi JC great video keep up the great work ! could you do a video on escs that stop working when you update with blheli and it crashes in the middle of an update to try and bring it back to life . i have a dshot dys 30amp that did this ! cheers jeff
I have a 30amp little bee esc that connects with blheli just fine everything seems to be good on it i've tried updating it and no problems but it is sending no signal to the motor at all any idea on what could cause this all my solder joints are fine i've double and triple checked them? On a side note i upgraded the quad that these esc were on to the blheli32 wraith esc and all 4 were working great before i moved them. I've even put a different esc on and it worked perfect so not wiring or motor.
If the caps are in series and one is broken then no voltage will make it through any of them. But almost all ESCs have caps in parallel. The ones I showed in series are a rare case.
I have a airbot f4 clone little bee 20a bl heli(normal not s), Dys mr2205 2300kv, X- Faktor(like Alien 5). When I go to th motors tab and throttle up, at around 1300 it starts oscillating really badly. At around 1500 it starts fliping out com letely(slow twitching). It does the same thing when it's unscrew and l hold it in my hand strongly pressed so it doesn't get the high freequenc noise already did the most radical filtering but ljust won't go away. PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE help me.
Hey JC, I know this has nothing to do with the video, but can you tell me where you get your replacement motor bearings. I'm looking for some for my emax red bottom.2205 2600kv.thanks man. keep up the good videos.
how do you know which capacitor is burnt when there is no clear evidence of it burnt , in fact , when do you know which electronic component i burnt when its not clear , but you still have an identical replacement
The ceramic caps dont really go bad. This video is for is any of them have broken off. The tantalum caps pop when they go bad and you can clearly see that they exploded.
I was almost to tears after I pushed a cap off my teeeny tiny micro build, after rebuilding it for the 3rd time. Then I saw this...then I thought wait a sec, that sounds like PBF...then I had to take a moment...
hey man, i actually been looking all over for this, great video, i have 3 kiss esc's that look perfect but they just dont work, nothing is fried or anything, but a component failed. do you have any videos on how to diagnose an esc, because without knowing whats wrong i dont know how to repair it.
