In Canada we have been running rubber tires for GT12 class. Seems to be easier for new guys to get into, might be something your clubs could look into.
To raise the front ride height you can remove the 1mm ride height spacer under the lower suspension arm and get some 0.5 ( U7920 ) and 0.75mm ( U7921 ) spacers from Schumacher.
Stumbled on your channel the other day, now I have the bug again, going to visit my local club tonight before I dust of my Tenth Tech x10 Pred from 1995
The fan mounting position definitely won't be doing you any favours, unfortunately the only place to mount a fan at the moment is right on the rear of the chassis behind the pod, until someone designs a better mount. If you want more rear stability, use less front additive and have the rears soaking for longer, even potentially double-dipping if they're drying out before your heat. Increasing rake and rear droop also helps with rear stability, and a bodyshell with a front splitter (try the phat bodies GTM) will help too.
I run a rear 30mm fan on the atom one using a custom mount I made. Works great and gets C of G low. Only thing I found was you must run a fan guard. Surpass do a nice lightweight carbon one.
@popalong RC are you going to be doing anymore with the Atom 3? Also did you find the top racers at your club using a gear diff as kit or preferring a ball diff? cheers! keep up the great videos :)
If the car is bouncy over rough tracksurfaces, the car is OVERdamped and you should run thinner oil, not thicker If you changed to thicker oil and what you felt was no longer there, then bouncing was not what you felt :)
Gr8 honest vid as usual. Q. R your class races actually allowed to use reverse? & you 2 should either get into/find a racer that does 3D printing & has a scanner. Print your own replacement parts or design your own non-CF parts. Stronger bits too depending on the substrate used if not less expensive. Learning curve is easy on 3D printers. Probably better for buggies & bashers not 12th scale. Idea for your future. Already parts maps online....or full chassis. Personally I am disappointed w/most new 10th scale onroad comp kits recently. Most are just more skeletonized to save weight imho. No real innovations. 12th scale, revisions but same chassis, rear pod design for ages. Gd new radio review. My only concern is long term quality. Looks CH made? I'll reserve judgement, but no drop down wheel? From Spektrum to NOT Futaba? Blasphemy! 😂😂 Personally I've gone back to Futaba stick radio. If it's good enough for Masami & Hara 😊...... I do miss 12th scale indoor racing, but now one has to race the class(es) that's run @ the local track(s) if u want to compete imho. An old trick + makes sense in every class & Y aren't you mounting/hot glue your transponders on the front of chassis/top of the foam bumper? Gets it away from all the elec noise, adds a tiny bit of weight in front of the F tires = traction. GD knows every rc car needs that or a bit of lead tape stuck on the front bumper for added F bite, handling, if class legal, once you figure out your chassis # balance point & side to side distr. Starting out w/as neutral a chassis as poss makes setup 20x easier. Your clubs don't have a lot of practice days or dedicated track space do they? That is a shame. 😳 Passed 6.2k subscribers & growing. 👍👍👍
12th scale doesn't allow reverse, it's to stop people reversing into the path of other cars and causing collisions. If you're stuck, you're stuck until a marshal comes to get your car. It's safer for all that way at the speeds these cars are going, it hurts when they hit you.