Thanks for this video! I’m an electrician and I’ve installed just about every EV charger on the market. Tesla Wall Connector is in a league of its own for ease of installation. You can enter it with wiring from any direction, which is a BIG deal. The Ford 48A charger is the WORST. Please do a video that compares the poor design of the Ford Charger to the elegant design of the Tesla Wall Connector.
Is it worse simply as a charger install, or because the Ford supports bi-directional charge/discharging? I’m not surprised. I installed the tesla one myself and I was shocked at how easy it was. Pun intended.
Having it not seal correctly is an issue. I've had to physically push the device on the while my apprentice could aling up screws due to it's IP seal. This blokes never talked about and we have 3 phase models colloquially here. My first charger we installed a 3 phase 32A RCD circuit, but when I clamped the current it was only drawing 16A a phase going full belt!
@Antonio DiNunno My issue was connecting to my Google mesh. Not sure what actually worked, but it finally connected. Bet they do a fix in a future wall connector software update.
The reason the wifi was hard for you was because the Google Mesh & Nest routers uses a combined SSID and doesn’t separate the 5ghz and the 2.4ghz. It determines the band your device will be on based on distance. The Tesla wall connector uses only 2.4ghz. So if you’re too close to the router it’ll try and connect to the 5ghz band and will have fits. The wifi extenders will separate into both bands where the Tesla wall connector can now choose the 2.4 band manually. Same issue Google has with smart home devices like bulbs that only use 2.4ghz. Most routers do not have this issue as you can separate your 2.4 / 5 / 6 bands but Google combines.
@@Way-Way Sounds about right. Google's hardware is an absolute mess. Not sure how the worlds biggest software company has so much junk coming out, but its gotten ridiculous.
This is what I love about Munroe and Associates, I can totally geek out with the valuable data these pros provide. Installed my own, had my Electrician friend Q.A. my work. No smoke yeaaaaaaaaa.
Those two connectors unpopulated are for between unit’s communication up to 6 units connected parallel RS485 for load balancing. I have 2 connected at home but suspect they now communicate via Wi-Fi instead. That allow them all units to share and load balance dynamically single circuit like 60A between 4 cars or 40A between two in my case. Works better than any other I used.
The 2-wire interconnect was what version 2 had, version 3 only has wifi according to Tesla's specs. So while the version 3 may still have the hardware, if those terminals are that, they currently have no function.
Tesla chargers are an iPhone of chargers. They just work. Not many setting you can change though. At first I was bummed by that coming from other brands where you can tweak all parameters but after few days I was like “Damn if I care about all those tweaks! It just works somehow and that’s save me time and worry!” Tesla magic. Now I never even care to check what those charges doing and how because they do their job orchestrated with cars so perfectly!
Glad to see you pulled this and eliminated some technical bloopers before re-posting. One thing still grated on my engineer ear: At one point, one of the presenters says that level 1 charges at "one kilowatt per hour." No. Just no. It charges at 1 kilowatt. Full stop. Or you could say it charges at "one kilowatt hour per hour." Which is a bit redundant, but I have seen plausible arguments that saying it that way helps non-electrical folks understand that kilowatt hours (NOT kilowatts) are what you pay for, store, and use to move the car. And in the category of sweeping back the tide, but I want to try anyway - the items you are evaluating are not chargers. The charger (for level 1 and 2) is built into the car, and controls how much current the car draws. Yes, the public is going to call them chargers - but Munro ENGINEERS ought to call them what they are: EVSEs (electric vehicle supply equipment.) It's a distinction worth making, because even if the EVSE on the wall is rated at 48 amps or more, the car's onboard charger may not be able to pull that much. You will do a public service by emphasizing that if the charger in the car is rated at 7 kW, plugging it in to an EVSE that could supply 11 - 22 kW isn't going to charge the car any faster than an 7 kW EVSE that: costs less, less to buy, less to install (cheaper wiring) and may fit into an existing electrical panel's limits when I higher rated EVSE might require a utility service upgrade and a service panel upgrade.
We have 4 Tesla wall chargers connected to a 100 amp / 240 v subpanel. They handily load balance over WiFi, delivering the full 48 amps per car when only 2 need to charge and dropping to 24 amps per car when all 4 are charging. Work really well. Also, we installed pull down reels for cables, makes charging a 15 second experience.
But ICE car drivers say charging takes a long time, conveniently forgetting that for most people, 99% of charging is done at home. It’s a full year since I had to publicly charge- all the rest has been done while I sleep, which has saved a huge amount of time compared to our other (ICE) car.
One thing to note about all level 2 is that they do very little, they are basically a smart switch that disconnect the power to the cable when not in use. They put the 220v on and the real work happen in the onboard charger of the car.
You can feed the Tesla charger from the top, bottom or back. I installed my charger and fed it from the back for a very clean installation. Just make sure to size the wire to handle a 60 amp load and use copper per the Tesla specifications only. My charger was $450 but my wire was $950. I did however run the wire 70 feet so I went to the max gauge that would fit the charger and was required to carry 60 amps, even though the charger is 48 amps max, you must install it on a 60 amp double pole breaker circuit per code. Southwire has a free app to calculate the wire size based on the run distance and amp load.
Yeah, sounds like you oversized the wire and paid more than necessary. #6 is fine for up to 200 ft. You size conductors based off actual load, not breaker size. So you should have used 48A in your voltage drop calculator, not 60A. The breaker is then sized to give 125% of the necessary ampacity in this case.
@@thang1742 Depends on a lot of factors including the voltage the step-down transformer is set to, time of day, the length and quality of your service drop, other houses sharing the same transformer, and installation quality. I wouldn't worry about it unless you were getting less than 228V.
It is used for commissioning of the unit as well; you can pull in some home automation information from it, but unfortunately you cannot modify the charging current remotely via the connector-- you have to use the app for the car (or Tesla API to the car).
This charger is 3 phase in the Netherlands. 3x16A on 230V. Other electronic design, but the same on the outside. Installation was really easy as each reasonable modern house has 3 phase 25A as minimum. If you don't have 3 phase it is easy to get it (Netherlands).
In UK, I saw this RU-vid video from an elctrican installer, who said that he could not install a Tesla Wall charger because they dont have a arc circuit breaker, unless he also install a circuit breaker separately. Note: An arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) or arc-fault detection device (AFDD) is a circuit breaker that breaks the circuit when it detects the electric arcs that are a signature of loose connections in home wiring. Loose connections, which can develop over time, can sometimes become hot enough to ignite house fires.
For the Assembly Associate, the bar is pre-made into the base. The real problem here, is that they didn't insert the connector for the LED charging status indicator. :)
Thanks for reposting. Some interesting info was omitted from the previous video like the self destruct fuse on the board or reset button like a circuit breaker. And the mounting screws being more expensive to purchase on Tesla's website indicating just buy them in a hardware store for less. In the future, please consider adding text to a video if you feel you have to take it down before reposting to correct any misspoken words. This way you can retain most if not all of the original presenter's insightful info.
Big fan of Munro, Small point EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment ) not "Chargers" its basically a power cord with a smart switch, and big point these devices will draw large current (Amps) over a long period of time. Correct installation is important along with circuit breaker and wire gauge size for obvious safety reasons.
@@pgbpro20 Your right that genie is already out of the bottle and manufactures want to continue calling them "Chargers" that way they can charge $$$$$$$$ hundreds for a fancy power cord, over inflated pricing in the EV world is nothing new.
Do you have a source how this is accomplished. I thought hardwired communications was the Gen2 Wall Connector. Gen3 accomplishes this through wifi. I think this port is for the Smart Current Limits Meter they are now rolling out. But it could be possible it is for both.
10:19 On page 15 the Tesla wall connector manual has a diagram with arrows and numbers, there it indicates that the red and white connectors are RS-485 a type of serial communications port most likely for debugging
not for debugging; in case of other brands, it is used in combination with the external RS-485/Modbus power meter to limit maximal charging current based on total house power consumption
I was thinking it’s for someone having many of them, rs-485 allow to chain devices, that way you could have many in a parking and monitor and control the use in a central place with a simple connection.
My installation document included information about connecting multiple chargers together so the vehicles could negotiate which charges first or most. I believe that is the point of the serial data.
I've been using a level-1 charger exclusively for 2 years (27K miles). No issues and I very rarely need to use public chargers. My battery gives 260 miles of range.
I'm surprised the correct term EVSE was not discussed. They are not chargers. By the way, I used level 1 charging for a year at got about 3-4 miles/hour on a NEMA 5-15 and 4-5 miles/hour on a NEMA 5-20 on my Model 3 LR.
There are a 101 different official names, I still like the "incorrect" 'charger'. Just watched the Marques Brownlee interview with RJ Scaringe, and RJ called it a charger. Sooooo....
I like the installation with all the wires in the back plate and you just plug in the charger. If it ever needs service just take out four screws and unplugged the charger and mail it in.
very basic report you did on the mechanical part only. It is x times more interesting to find out what can be configured via WiFi and what the box is capable off, e.g. - RFID? - Setting to allow only certain VINs to charge - Trotteling when multiple chargers are on the same AC wire - How many watts it eats when idle - Options how to enable/disable it via WiFi - Options to limit the max charging power e.g. 4 kW instead of 11kW for solar planets where the solar system cannot produce 11kW - Options to remote enable/disable charging
Yes, you can limit charging for all EVs, all Teslas or specific Tesla VINs. Multiple chargers communicate via Wifi to share the total supply amperes. You set the max. current / power during setup. Not easily adjustable while charging. Some use Tesla API to dynamically adjust the charge rate in car according to solar, or use different wallbox which can be integrated with solar.
@@Marki555 hi Mark, thank you very much for this specific information. I am planing as well to write some software to use the Tesla API to adjust charging in sync with the solar power production. Regards from Hannover, Germany
Maybe also take into account the ease of installation... basically you need to install the base only to the electrical wires and then click on the housing
Level 2 wall connectors allow use of your level 2 on board charger. The vehicle’s charger on board determines speed of charge as well as the 220 30-60 amp circuit. Many Leafs and Bolts have 3-7 kw on board charger. Teslas base model 3 single motor 7 kw vs dual motor 11 kw on board charger.
10:36 these terminals maybe an input from an external current transformer to allow charge curent to be limited based on total house load. This is a very common feature on EVSEs in the UK
Interesting that they would keep that on a 2-phase board when everywhere else has 220/230 V on a single phase. Do you think it'd be useful to only monitor one leg of the mains in the US?
Keep guessing guys, it's an RS485 for load balancing when using more than one charger in a household. Its plainly labeled on the instruction sheet, too.
@@shazam6274 Cool! I really expected that to be a wireless communication of some kind but wired is good too. I’m going to need a second one at some point 🙂
Took mine appart after replacement was sent a Main relay was stuck …. Bent back the spring and modified a bit and my dad been using it for his Chevy Volt -20c weather for a Year not problems albeit Volt charge at 20amps max
@@PaulCHa if people want to get bent over this video use of the term "level three" or "level four" is not reflected in any electrical code that I know of. Some people dislike people calling DC fast charging "level three". Personally I like saying level three however would not be able to prove my case to a judge in the court of .... Electrical nomenclature? 😂 Unsure what was incorrect in previous video.
The charger isn’t but the connector on the vehicle end is. The one that comes with this charger will only work on a vehicle with a Tesla charge inlet (unless you spend extra for an adapter).
@@ouch1011 correct this would be true for the US and possibly China, but in the rest of the world Teslas like most are supplied with CCS2 ports. Consequently the Wall Chargers are supplied with type 2 plugs.
Something else to look at, which one of the other commenters touched on, is what is the labor cost associated with the installation? The Tesla unit appears quite easy to install. There are some nice features such as choosing direction of cable entry and the integral wire stripping gauge. The installation cost may or may not be a pass-though to the end user, depending. If I am not mistaken, GM, Ford, etc. have flat rate or no-cost EVSE installation included with the vehicle purchase.
Ford does not for the F-150 Lightning, but they are happy to sell your data to SunRun who began contacting me almost immediately after I placed my pre-order.
That red and white speaker connector, I think it's an RS485 MODBUS output. There must be a Maxim485 chip nearby. Based on my research, the energy sharing was able to work on the V2 charger. Unfortunately, the V3 charger only works via Wi-Fi, and it does not allow external software to control the charging. I hope this will be fixed in another update.
This would be my first guess. Some sort of serial interface which may be multi purpose but in previous generations was used for power sharing. I have no idea if anyone has reversed the Wi-Fi sharing on the V3s, but I have to imagine the protocol can't be too difficult unless they're doing some sort of strong pki based device authentication to secure the power sharing communications.
And some quick Googling, it appears the protocol is HTTP based and does do mTLS with some sort of baked in device identities, but you CAN set max power on a per device bases using the public not secured APIs.
This is great! Currently weighing options while a 14-50 is scheduled for installation on the front porch. I've narrowed it down to Tesla, Grizzl-E and Emporia. I love the metal casing on the Grizzl-E. The advantage of non-Tesla charger seems to be the universal compatible with any brand of EV.
@@laloajuria4678 I find simplifying to smart safety switch enables even children to understand what it does. It doesn't charge the car just couples the electricity in.
Thanks for the video! My wall charger just crapped out this year and Tesla support said I need to replace it. According to the testing they were able to do, they were seeing unexpected voltage drops. "I was able to run a few tests from the part number and serial number that you provided. The Wall Connector is detecting unexpected voltage drops." Since after providing them additional info after they sent me that, I was going to try taking apart the wall charger and cleaning it out or checking for anything on the interior before replacing it since they are fairly expensive. Anything you guys would recommend I take a look at in particular on the inside? I was getting ~240v (T1-T2) and 120v (T1-G & T2-G) from measuring directly at my electrical panel in the house.
That NFC could be used to prevent it from charging Tesla cars not driven by the owner of the charger! It can keep the unit from activating the contactors unless the owner’s phone or keycard is waved by the nfc chip, in areas of poor security.
This charger already has the ability to VIN restrict to certain cars. I think Tesla might payment enable these Level 2 chargers at some point in the future, I believe they have much bigger ambitions of being the charging provider for all cars in the future and this is them building out a vast network of infrastructure that can be enabled with the push of a firmware update.
@@taylorlightfoot and pay the guy paying for the electricity being used by a stranger hopefully at a significant profit to the guy who has this installed on the side of his house, I hope. That means tapping the owner of the Tesla Charger into the Tesla Ecosystem to funnel payments from the driver who stopped to let his car take a sip of electrons.
They'll never catch up😁 Production ramp will mainly follow solar/starlink consumer demand, but just another tool in 'total-energy-domination'. That RFID 'platform' is a future adjunct to every Tessa platform. "Product Verification" for identification/location of any Tesla energy product. Expect that the same light-weight/low-cost component to arrive with any future Tesla energy solutons
Your videos are watched worldwide, would be nice if you add the specs outside of the US for this product. This Tesla WC3 charger here in the EU works 1phase or 3phase, so 3phase 230V 32A =22kW
A 60 amp circuit means we're not looking at a 14-50 connection since those receptacles are rated at 50 amps. 40 amps would be the max current allowed by the EV per the 20 percent rule. You'd need the election to do a hardwire install in order to get 60 amps (more expensive).
Okay to be clear, there is no such thing as 110/220 volt outlets in the United States, They've been 120/240 volt for like 100 years now. So why did Tesla limit what their vehicles can accept to 48 amps? Many EV's now are doing 80 amps for faster charging. The Model S used to allow 80 amps years ago.
In Europe the level 1 charger that comes with the car and plugs into the domestic socket pushes through about 3kW and adds 20 km (12.4 miles) per hour to a long range Model 3, so it's slow but not pointless.
You can get a 32A (amp) blue circular socket outdoor and adapter from tesla to do level 2 charging via the mobile connector. It can then do 7.4KW like the wall connector.
1) these are not chargers, they are EVSE or connectors 2) There is no Level 3 charging for EVs. It’s AC L1 and L2 and then DC fast charging. I wouldn’t bother commenting on any other amateur channel but this is supposed to be an engineering company channel where such details matter.
Yeah, noted that L3 comment also. They seemed to be confused about Tesla marketing definition for their DC FC hardware. I am sure they will get better, but this was a rough start.🧐
Thanks for the Analysis.. Could you ad extra information such as (Resistance to Weather of Casing, Cable, Connector protection in Hot or Cold temperatures)
A very compact design for a 48A circuit but we would like to Munro to shed more light on what it would take to get out 60A from this EVSE assuming the eV’s onboard charger can handle the extra 12A current. For example Lucid Air supports 80A AC charging on the type 1/SAEJ1772 connector with an adapter.
cool video, but why didnt you take apart the connector that goes into the car? would have been nice to see that too... Also, no mention about load balancing
Tesla wall connectors one of the fastest if on 60 amp circuit and if large 11 kw on board chargers. Some teslas have 19 kw on board charger. Wall connectors one of the cheapest vs competition. Tesla wall connector can be used with other EV’s if buy Ccs adapter
7:46... Are you sure the 80% rule isn't so the wires don't heat up... Since the EV chargers are on continuously and near max load unlike most electrical loads?
Sweet video, I have that charger and it does 48A nicely... But my button on the plug won't open the charge port... wish there was more on how the push button on the plug is connected. When I press the button It stops charging and unlocks, so I think the data cable is hooked up. I guess I'll open it up and look in there to see if it it was an assembly issue or quality issue.
Are you planing to do a teardown on Fronius WallPilot charger? It would be very interesting to see how they compare to other brands. Fronius are renowned for their welding equipment and in more recent times their PV inverters.
Did I see copper only on the terminals for the incoming wire? also what size is the wire gauge of the charging cable as it seemed 4 meters long at a max 48 amp?
One thing not touched on is the two methods of EV charger installation - hardwired vs 14-50 outlet. I don't think most EV owners are aware of the two different options unless their electrician has told them.
There is no "Level 3" in any official standard that covers EVs. These are also EVSEs (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment), not "chargers", the charger is inside the EV. Shame on you for being an "engineering company" and getting this so wrong.
So for a “typical” home installation in the USA, what conductors come out of the main breaker panel to the charger assembly? Stranded or solid? 16:48 What size wire for L1, L2 & Earth? What are the NEC requirements for safe operation? More installation details should have been provided.
The video was about the EVSE itself. Those details are up to the electrician and local electrical code to determine. But a typical install for a 240V/48A charge rate will use 6 AWG wire (copper course stranded) for L1/L2 with a solid copper 10 AWG ground (earth) wire. Unlike UK, USA does not require fancy terminations with ferrules (bare wires in screw terminals is acceptable), nor a local earth rod. Virtually all EVSEs sold in the US have built-in double-pole RCD protection.
RETIRED 78, USAF, VFW. TESLA LEVEL 2, CHARGER INSTALLED. WIRED 50 AMP WELDING PLUG TO 32 AMP OPTIONED WALL CHARGER WITH 20' 50 AMP EXTENSION CORD TO EXTRA WELDING OUTLET IN GARAGE SHOP. CYBERTRK WILL BE PARKED NEXT TO 2018 MODEL 3 IN GARAGE.
MUNRO live - thank you for posting this. this is LONG overdue , as you have shown other EVSE in the past. Meanwhile , in China TESLA announces the Cybervault , a locking EVSE home charger for Tesla in China. the Metal exterior is made like the Cybertruck , low polygon and Angular. and its just a Standard wall connector.
the unknown connector on the back (red white) may be the deprecated 'serial' port to interconnect between wall connectors allowing them to safely share a breaker. Previous versions relied on a physical data connection to accomplish this. The modern ones use a wireless network to instruct one another how to share gracefully. The wire terminals may be to enable sharing with a gen 1 or gen 2 wall connector...just undocumented.
