Watching your fingers in the jack as he's lowering it down had me screaming "Don't trust him! He's a god damned elechicken! He's gonna full send the jack and your new nickname will be Nubs!"
Hi Ave, I don’t know if you remember me but you sent me a t shirt a few years ago because I am a single full time dad with two little chick a Dee’s to look after myself and I thanked you for your uploads because I missed hanging around in the workshop with the guys ect. I just want you to know my girls are now 18 and 16 and hopefully this year I will be getting my very own workshop! Thanks for keeping me sane buddy when I was knee deep in housework, nappies, sick ( and that was just me! ) lol Thanks again AvE you have really helped me.
@@arduinoversusevil2025 they run trans fluid, like all,,modern boxes.. plus you only need replace the bearing not the whole slave.. but,there only $30..have fun bleeding the clutch if it aint got a nipple,,you have to back pressure bleed it. slave to master..or ,it will take you 10 yrs to bleed it..
The stealership tried to get me for $600 to replace my clutch. I did it myself, not wanting to get bent over. I did almost loose a pinky via a dropped transmission, but allowing for healing between injuries, it only took me a month a few hundred in new tools. Good as new. Next time I can get it done with half the blood loas
My first car was a '72 Pinto. You could reach basically anything on the engine, which was a good thing because everything on it failed sooner or later.
@@tncorgi92 Hahah! I test drove a Pinto when I was looking for my first car and I found a '79 that was actually pretty fun to drive. My dad had one and didn't want me to have one AT ALL, since he had so many problems with his.
So trusting of the old dewclaw with his fingers in the pinch point of the jack! And no words to coordinate! True professionals with at least 2 hours of on the job training! Displayed by the identification of the thermometer speed gauge!
Yep - RMS, pilot bearing, throwout bearing and CSC (if so equipped) are the standard items. Might even think about the input shaft seal on the trans, though those tend to last a long time.
@@adampindell About 15 years ago, I had to put a clutch in a mid 90s powerstroke. I didn't have a lift, or a trans jack or a shop to work in. I ended up supporting the trans and transfer case on 3 bottle jacks and rolled the whole truck ahead to make enough room to replace the clutch, then rolled the whole truck back and tied it all back together. Not fun, and super sketchy, but when you're young and broke you gotta get creative.
well it appears I've been watching long enough that AvE has finally done something that I actually know something about. that particular transmission (a Mazda built M5ODR2) takes either full synthetic 30 weight or more commonly atf, not 90 weight gear lube. when your trying to get the transmission slid back try attaching a come along to the rear axle and the trans mount if your carful you can get it to slide back slowly and smoothly and not fall off the jack (wiggling the jack by the handle helps keep the wheels going the right direction). use that old pail of Castrol grease you bought back in the 80s to remove the old pilot bearing by packing it into the center until it forces the bearing out. also, I noticed that your doing this job at the bikini atoll so keep an eye on your sieverts
AvE you're not wrong about all that space in there! I work on this modern stuff in a manor that I try to consider professional. They pay me for it at least, so I assume it's professional. Funny thing is, of you give the younger mechanics a truck like yours to diagnose, they don't know where to begin. Something about the connector for the computers being different and having to revert to analog mode of testing really seems to fry their brain. Love your work!!!
Quick tip: always check the length of through out bearing and cylinder. I've had several aftermarket parts measure 3/8"(9.5mm) shorter than the OEM part. You will have excessive pedal travel and the clutch won't disengage properly. I had to eat the labor cost of re-disassembling it, not fun.
Something like that never occurred to me! Crap.I'm about to assemble a clutch job this morning.I went out to measure the old throw out bearing. but it's already gone with a load to the metal recyclers. Never mind ,i think i can test-imate it before the whole drive train (its a front wheel drive) goes back in.Thanks for the tip!
I have a permanently injured foot from trying to get a good pedal on a Tacoma after clutch replacement. Tried 2 masters , 2 slaves, all kinds of tricks. Turns out the NEW flywheel was thinner . Rat bastards. New ,not recon. Now my f'n foot still bothers me. I limped for 2 months...physical therapy helped...grrrrr
Was anyone else cringing when are fearless friend had his hand in jeopardy?! Job well done my friends but I prefer is medium rare, good day to you both.
Ahhh, looks exactly like the same shit that went on several times with my ranger clutch replacement. Memories are always best as memories and nothing more 😂
Same truck model, engine and transmission 6 months ago. Used a hand operated motorcycle lift with a wood cradle I made to hold the transmission. Had time to spare so took a nap on the crawler
We all learn from each other UB. As a 20 year ASE master tech, atf is now used from the manufacturer in manual transmissions. It has better cling properties, flows better in cold conditions, creates less drag on moving components, and does not deteriorate the friction materials that were added to the synchronizers. They even put in 4x4 transfer cases now. Who wooda thunk it better than the enginerds in Detroit city.
what a surprise, for years ive wondered about your past and the knowledge you have, i've always felt we've possibly had very different lives... and then you pull out the tune in tokoyo..... you may as well of grown up next door to me
You can use thread all. Start that in the bell housing on each side. Lower the back of the engine a little and pull transmission back replace the clutch. Then push tranny back using the thread all as a guide pin.
Needed to watch to appreciate my shop, transmission jack and two post lift. I remember the days of pulling a C6 transmission and having to pull it up on my chest to install…my young and not so smart days
Most enjoyable evenings work I participated in and I still got clean fingernails and no crick in my neck. I even had a beer with you guys after, Molsen it was !!!
“I’m going to change my clutch and save myself some money!” American - spends $20k on a pole barn workshop, $4k on a 2 post lift and several thousand $$ on a transmission jack and hand tools. Canadian - finds a tarp, some chunks of wood and the cheapest floor jack you can purchase at a garage sale. …and they both have to make several trips back to the ##!!@$ auto parts store.
As a pro i hate when a ford comes in. It almost makes it worth going to the dealer and giving them the vin. So many midstream parts changes while assembling.
As an american usually its more of a one side on the curb situation. Hoping the cops don't show up before were done... Still multiple parts trips though can't get around it. Probably half the parts from the junkyard where it will suffice.
Ford calls for auto trans fluid for the M5OD and ZF5 transmissions in the 80s and 90s. Royal Purple makes a synchromesh manual transmission fluid that’s a similar viscosity as auto fluid with additives in it. Works well in these.
I remember the heady days/nights on the railways when the safety guy (Controller of site safety) would scrutinize the RIMINI pack documentation in the hope that something didn't checkout or the dotted lines hadn't been scrawled with the relevant coloured ink. Once ceased the cry went out that it was "Jay Cee" (Job cancelled) and you've never seen men move so fast.
Show more of the clutch master cylinder reservoir... kinda looks like some one put the motors oils in with the hydraulic fluids ... causing all the rubbers to turn into Magnums !
Don't forget to use non-alumina based sand paper for surfacing iron friction parts like fly wheels. Alumina apparently causes a phase transition in the iron to an unfavorable crystalline structure with a higher coefficient of friction, causing hot spots and variable rotor wear patterns.
Someone that’s not a mechanic working on a vehicle that has a problem, instead of diagnosing the problem the answer was to remove the transmission completely from the vehicle and then to in fact replace the clutch. Half way through realizing the transmission didn’t have to come out, installing the new clutch so the time wasn’t wasted in vain.. later fixing the hydraulic problem. Patiently waiting on the day after this to tell someone in a similar situation about your experience and what not to do
Conspiracy theory for the day: The more trips to the parts shop, the more miles (or Killamiters[spelling?]) you have to drive. The more you drive, the more parts you’ll eventually need for service and repair, the more service and repair needed, THE MORE MONEY THE PARTS STORE MAKES! It behooves the parts store industry to hire incompetent counter monkeys. Sorry, if you’re like me and you perseverate on getting screwed by big business, than you’ll be pissed off by having this theory in mind every time you order parts. Try to take comfort in knowing that you are not the only one being bent over the parts counter, and do your best not to jump over the counter to throttle the incompetent staff member. It’s not their fault they suck; they’ve been hired by design to feed the beast. That’s all for now. I have to drive back to the parts store to swap out a brake caliper.
M5ODs have a tendency to spill their ATF (their beverage of choice even though it’s a man box) through the rear vents. Change em while it’s out or check fluid regularly. If it starts squealing at all, it’s cooked. Source: my experience bench-pressing 3 seperate boxes in and out of the ‘94 Ranger I bought for a song and dance at a scrap yard years ago.
The only thing I've paid a mechanic to do in years was replace my clutch, after I was about ten hours into it. I'll probably never attempt it again. Perhaps on a truck with decent room. On a cramped underbelly of a BMW sedan... I was willing to pay my mechanic double what he charged me.
Often with cars like that they will drop the whole subframe with the engine and trans. Then pull the trans off the engine and replace the clutch. Like how I learned that with some subarus they pull the engine to do a clutch since it’s actually easier to pull the engine than pull the trans.
60' s are gone. Most car and light truck have used one of a few different flavors of ATF since the 70's because of tighter clearances. Wrong ATF lube can also eat the synchro's.
BTDT. Now that both my finances and arthritis have increased over the years, there is a trustworthy shop in town with a hoist and proper transmission jack that charges reasonable…
yes, that drain plug was normal. All manual transmissions are going to have some metal. After all it's just gears riding on gears at high speeds. I miss the days when i was building race engine/transmission combos.
I'm sure you found out by now AVE, but the atf in the trans may actually be correct for that, most ford that use M5OD or ZF-5 trans are actually supposed to use atf or low viscosity oil. If you put regular old gear oil in them, the parasitic drag on the syncros will make it shift like crap, and I have heard it said that the sulfur in standard gear oil actually corrodes the synchro material in those trans as well.
I looked up the book time on replacing my Scion clutch. Nine hours. Needless to say I bought a good one before reading that, then promptly took it to a shop.
One of the disappearing black arts ! It used to be that any "real man" possessed the ability to replace the worn out clutch in his rig, in the mud, on the side of a dim road, at night, facing against oncoming traffic, during a blizzard, with no jack, and only a generic multi tool, and a rusty pair of channel-locks ! Sadly the days of men possessing these skills are in short order. Well.....sadly for online commenters safe and comfortable next to their personal heat source anyway !
Joe Blow on the street can do a job with stuff they find around the shop that a mechanical engineer would have trouble doing with thousands of dollars of job specific tools.
So far I’ve been involved with manual swaps on every generation of Chevrolet from the the 67-72 C10’s all the way to a 2014 Sierra a few months back. The new electronics make it vastly harder to swap and keep everything working sadly. The GMT-900 chassis is about the last one where the body control wasn’t so involved with the transmission control that the car won’t run with the transmission removed.
Just finished a clutch job on a newish front wheel drive car yesterday. 16 hours in I decided next time I would just pay someone else to do it next time
I've got an '88 F150 4.9. I did the clutch a couple years ago then other problems kept happening and wouldn't stop so beware! Think I got her fixed so... Gonna try to run her again soon. (I've said this 20 times) aftermarket map sensors can be bad- save your original motorcraft when you throw parts at it w a code 22 (my latest problem fixed)
code 22: could be the map, could be a vacuum leak, could be fuel pressure problem... could be something else but I've experienced these 3 so far w a code 22
Every clutch job..... so true. Transmission falls off the jack - check Flywheel should be replaced or resurfaced, but you don’t - check Clutch disc is wrong - check Fix it “later” - check Classic
At least few claw has a buddy that helps. Whenever I need to do a transmission my friends say they’ll help but all they do is drink beer and make jokes.
Once You have the space, the equipment, the knowhow and the time to do a (proper) clutch job, You usually meanwhile have also the funds to do clutch jobs on Your precious vintage fleet only and give the daily junker to a pro for clutch'n brakes in one go and have dinner with the new mistress instead.
My 1965 Triumph Thunderbird 650. Where I buy parts the guy tells me all that is missing from my bike. He says he is amazed at how much can be missing yet they still run.
Wow never been this early. Last clutch I swapped took me about 12 months, we'll it actually took me about 2 days but we had a couple of spells of procrastination that wasn't on the the original project schedule.
@@OhPhuckYou its always best to let the fittings grow the shoulders back naturally. It takes a while but it always better then rushing right in with that special tool off the candy truck.
the one thing I learned very quickly when doing ones own automotive repairs... bring old part with you to parts place, get new part, open box of new part and compare new part and old part, ask for the proper replacement instead of some other vehicles part, return home and repair vehicle, test run vehicle, drink several beers and bask in the glory of the victory.
More like call up automotive parts store wait 5-6 months because everything is backordered then parts finally comes in and it's the wrong part and you wait another 5-6 months again.
Especially important to open/check those parts at the counter... New parts people will ask you four questions... Year, make, model and part... They are not like those old parts jockies that get out the books... Since my vehicle is a Franken monster, they ask me for the first three and I say, let me stop you right there, get the manager please...
That's neat for a tail light, but when its a clutch, or a half shaft or ball joint or anything else that puts you on jackstands, you dont really have that luxury.
