The asbestos in the gasket isn’t an issue unless they are flaking apart. Also never use a grinder or wire wheel to remove gasket material from housing. Gently Use a scraper to help remove. You can also dampen the gasket to reduce chances of making asbestos airborne. I worked with asbestos periodically my whole career.
The asbestos gaskets are definitely an issue since the cabin air is flowing right around the side of the aluminum burner and gasket which is always flaking at the edges and asbestos contaminated air can get distributed into the cabin air. So if you buy a chinese knock off diesel heater, replace the gaskets for gods sake...
Most fuel pumps do better pushing fuel than sucking it out of a long line. You want the pump to last longer, have it as close to the tank as you can OR have it lower than the tank. It will also help with priming.
This video is an absolute masterclass. I went from not knowing anything about diesel heaters to having a clear plan on use and maintain one safely. Love this kind of content, you're an excellent teacher
I am loving this video in so many ways. Love how you're not holding back on the honest review. The info is on point and the alternative options are well researched. Great work Max!!!
32:00 The burning plastic is the heater itself inside the case burning the case. There is normally a flow of air preventing the plastic case from getting how and melting. 😆
I have three of these heaters doing different duties from a shack to my workshop. In the workshop I ran a 2metre long exhaust tube through the wall into the metal shop along it's wall with a 1° fall then through an external wall to the outside. The heat from the 1.6m of exhaust tubing running along that wall in the metal shop (with a stainless heat reflector/shield) is amazing, it makes a big difference in winter just utilising exhaust heat that would otherwise be wasted. To get the fuel mixture right on that setup I had to increase the fan speed by 600rpm and it seems good so far, but I also run a dual fuel supply which lets me (electronically) switch over to a high volume outside tank containing 50/50 waste oil and diesel mix after running temp is reached, then I switch back to straight diesel around 10-15 minutes before shutdown and crank the temp up as it helps clean the mesh glow plug wick for the next start, if I peer oy the window I can spot an occasional spark exit the exhaust during this burn off, so it's doing something. This system has been running around three years with zero soot build up, I did replace the glow plug once shortly after the installation and I bought several spares, but so far the replacement has lasted well. I also use copper never seize on the bolts and glow plug which makes removal a breeze. All my systems run on solar power with a 100W solar panel charging a bunch of recycled car batteries, the system will start any time of day or night and can go 24 hours a day without losing charge, even in winter with short days. Cheers.
A crucial step you left out, you must check the exhaust gas for carbon monoxide levels after adjusting. If it's too weak or rich the figures will sky rocket and quickly become a health hazard, and with a window open or leaks in to the living area present a serious problem. Even a cheap Ebay monoxide tester (those yellow ones for $25) will do the job, just hold it a foot or so away from the exhaust so it does not melt on a calm day and take several readings at low medium and high output power. You need to aim for 20 to 50ppm at all power levels (20 at low and 50 at high). I have found 1.6@1680/5.0@4500 the sweet spot for 0 to 2500ft ft alt, 1.4@1680/4.5@4500 for 2500 to 5000ft alt, and 1.3@1680/4.0@4500 for 5000 to 7500ft alt. 25 to 50ppm carbon monoxide is the key indicator for correct combustion/fuel to air ratio. Not had any sooting for years at those settings using good quality fuel on any of my 5's. Running a 50/50 mix of diesel and kerosene is an even better option in cold winter months for clean burns. Some great info for many in your video by the way!!
That is a good point! I knew I forgot to mention something. Out of curiosity if you are running too lean how high do the CO numbers get? I change elevation all the time so constantly re-tuning the heater isn't exactly practical, but I think for a static installation this is a great tip to get the most out of your heater while minimizing CO exposure.
@@dustyodyssey There seems to be a sweet spot window of about .3hz/.4hz where everything runs fine (about .15hz/.2hz either side of correct). So if your target was 1680@1.6hz then you would get to 1.5hz perhaps 1.4hz and not affect the ppm (or at most 10ppm) then when you drop to 1.3hz it will suddenly rocket to several hundred ppm (and much higher at times!). Same goes for increasing, 1.7hz and 1.8hz would usually be ok (just), but at 1.9hz and a sudden rapid ppm increase. It can vary a little, sometimes the sharp rise could happen on the second step above or below, so it can vary on temperature (air density) and other factors including the altitude. Fuel type and mixing fuels also affects fuel/rpm ratio and ppm, but that's a whole different topic! (for example one of mine has run at 1.2@1680 on 80%kero/20%diesel@15ppm 1000ft which is super low and clean!)
So - isn't the risk of excess CO _higher_ when you run too _rich_ (not enough oxygen), versus too lean? I always understood that too-lean virtually eliminates CO output - but at the expense of heat produced. I.e. prioritising 'safety' over efficiency/warmth per unit of diesel consumed.
@@jamie-hb8gy That's interesting, in engines running lean results in a drop of CO because you have excess oxygen to react with the fuel. That's interesting that it doesn't work that way in diesel heaters.
I bought a Vevor 5kw off Amazon shortly before you released this video. The model is XMZ-D2. There’s some possible differences you might want to be aware of: 1. Your smelly rubber gasket no longer smells. I took a flame to it to see if I could tell if it’s silicone or not, I’m not sure, but it didn’t emit black smoke. Smelled a bit worse but not terrible. Did they change it to silicone? Inconclusive. 2. The internal vibration dampers are now green on the side facing the components of the heater and are made of two different materials. Or at least two different color materials, green and white. Did they add flame proof liner to the pads? I have no idea, but it looks different than yours. 3. The color of the unit is orange and black, not grey. Fuel line is still green, positive voltage wire looks to be about 14 gauge. Fuel pump model is CNMZ-23, is that the same as yours? I find it odd they’d send you a lesser model than one they sell already. Or maybe this is all just smoke and mirrors and they’re exactly the same. I’ll install it in a week and can provide feedback.
They hand out their heaters like candy. Since I posted this video they have sent me another email asking me if they can send me a heater for free, no contract to sign or anything haha
Just bought a brand new diesel heater. Installed the exhaust outside. Put some exhaust paist on the exhaust. Every time I turn it on I get a headache. I have carbon monoxide alarm but does not go off. Anyone got any ideas what’s wrong. I have used just under a tank of diesel so far
Thanks for sharing your review and thoughts on these types of heaters,I use 2 to warm my rv and they work very well.i run pump diesle and also use an internal filter in my fuel tank, plus an external filter just to be extra sure I'm running clean diesle in my heaters.
Excellent, thorough review. I would recommend watching Joshua De Lisle's RU-vid channel for complimentary information. And yes, the outright deception and false advertising that Amazon permits vendors of these heaters to get away with is appalling. Buyer beware. On another note, would you happen to have a link to the power supply that you used? I currently run my via a Jackery 1000 Explorer, but it's a big ask of the little cigarette lighter outlet to give me nearly 10 amps for several minutes. Cheers!
I agree with others - you're a great teacher! Yes, I love your outdoor adventures. And I also love learning about things I'd always imagined would be out of reach for me. Thank you!
Diesel heaters are not worth the money. If you have a solar set-up, the heater eats electric power. I had an espar and it munched my 3000 watt e-power dry in 4 hours. Imagine a winter storm and no heat at 2 a.m. and closed roads, so I had to use the vehicle heater for 4 hours. Thankfully, I was parked next to a fuel station, so fueled up when the engine chewed though a lot of fuel while idling for 4 hours. In my new rig, I put in a solar generator which takes up a lot of space, but a little electic heater warms the space perfectly. The generator battery had plenty of power after running the milk barn heater, refrigerator, lights, and movie player all night while 2 ft of snow fell. And I had plenty of power to make hot cocoa while watching the sun rise over a snow covered Colorado wonderland.
Interesting. I have found the opposite to be true, on low my diesel heater uses ~15W which is practically nothing. Glad you were close to a fuel station! That could have been a scary situation with the roads closed!
You get the heater for nothing? Then tell people NOT to buy it? I do not recommend this review. Those heaters ARE a good unit if you know how to install them properly. **These cheaper heaters come in several names but the are all come from the manufacturer, and basically come with the same accessories more or less. They are selling them at 2KW, 5KW, or 8KW. The 5KW and 8KW are the same identical unit. They just changed the label to sell for a higher price. SO just buy the 5KW model (save some mney) and you'll be getting the larger one (unless you want the 2KW model) *All those fuel tanks will splash out fuel. Just use some plastic wrap under the cap and screw it back on when traveling. Then you can fill it up. Just use some common sense. * That cheap muffler on the intake hose makes a good filter also, if you first drill more holes in it so it isn't so restrictive and line it with cloth or filter material to keep the intake air, which is more important anyway. * You don't run the fuel pump horizontal. They are supposed to be run at about a 45 degree angle with the exit facing up to expel the air bubbles. That's how they're designed. Always filter the fuel with a filter between the tank and pump. It will keep your glow plug and atomizer screen clean in the long run. (Ya, and learn how not to cross thread bolts) LOL
Just because I got it for free doesn't mean other people should buy it! Vevor in particular charges a premium price, but like you said is no different than what you get for half the price.
I have to add now, there is an 8 KW heaters now that are actually physically larger (just a little) with possibly a different ECU that pumps a little more fuel into the heater so it may put out a little more heat. You may have to do a search for one because I do not remember the exact name of it. I don't think they are very common yet so it may be a while before you start to see them for sale.
Very well explained. I've been waiting for the "Pinto moment" where a wildly popular thing is suddenly discovered to have a huge flaw and that isn't happening with these heaters. The few issues some people have are seemingly rather easily and cheaply correctable. I've already decided to use one of these as my primary heat source for my travel trailer when the money becomes available and I'm wondering if the output could be tied in to the existing duct system? I can't see why not but it would be nice to hear if someone else has done this. Editing to add: If you use one of those intake air filters, buy a genuine "K&N" brand filter. These were originally designed for motorcycles and in that field (and among car tuners too) it's well known that the knock-offs are much more restrictive as well as being less efficient at filtering. Positively worth the extra cost for K&N filters.
Based on what I've seen on the forums others have hooked these up to their existing ducting systems with a little creativity. Depending on how big your travel trailer is and how cold it's going to be where you're going you may find that you want more heat though. And I did look at K&N but decided that a dry filter sounded easier to maintain, also I wasn't sure if I would be smelling the filter oil all the time? We'll see how this one works though, definitely an experiment.
@@dustyodyssey Thanks for the reply. K&N's can be ran 'dry', their recommended oiling enhances filtration at a slight cost of airflow but they're still flowing more air than the off-brands do. Not sure about any smell of the oil, my experience is as a motorcycle (and car) mechanic. As long as your filter is working OK use it, but when the paper element deteriorates replace it with a K&N for max airflow and lowest restriction. I'm semi-retired in the upstate of SC, so no bad cold weather here and even a 4K setting on a Mr buddy heater is toasty-warm but expensive to run compared to what I've heard about these diesel heaters, and I'm replacing all the 30 year old equipment as well as getting set up for solar eventually to minimize my living costs. I'm also going to be doing a semi-conversion on my equally old ex-work van for short term occupancy and small job work where one of these heaters will be exactly what I need.
I hear people use these for roof top tents, I have not because I feel that even if I have the unit outside it would still smell my tent up with diesel smell. Even if it is safe, I don't like the smell of diesel especially when I am trying to sleep. Do you think Kerosene would be less stinky and I am I correnct in thinking I will smell the diesel fuel in my roof top tent? Cheers, Great information by the way.
I have not run kero, so I couldn't tell you, but I would assume it's not all that different from diesel. If I have my windows open for cooking and the wind blows a certain way I do definitely get a slight smell inside, but most of the time there is no smell, but I can imagine in a tent you may smell it from time to time, but I wouldn't think it would be too bad. Cheers!
If you cut and splice the wires, are you really reducing resistance or increasing current capacity? Are you making a soldered connection or some sort of crimp? Overall, great review of these products. Normally, reviewers just rave about them and never highlight the flaws.
Folks are continually saying that you get what you pay for , From my own experience of thses heaters is that they worth double what they cost. I would say is that fitting these heaters should not be done by arm chair experts.. When fitted correctly they are very efficient safe and long lasting.
hehe, i have been driving a diesel for the past 12 years, but completely forgot that it is entirely possible to combust diesel without pressure. after your explanation at ~ 5:30 i was very confused for a few minutes :D i was expecting so see pretty much a small engine once you took that thing apart
Awesome! You have so much experience and explain all the nuances and variables that so many videos leave out... And leave you scratching your head. Thanks for this highly informative and useful video. I've subscribed. You're a cool dude. I wonder how you're making money on the road. That's the only tiny detail I haven't figured out. Otherwise I'd be out there tomorrow morning.! 😊
Although many will disagree, the fuel pump mounted in a vertical position will increase its longevity with complete lubrication of the pulsating cylinder, also the rubber glow plug seal needs to be properly installed or you will get exhaust in the cabin area. For the body intake you can adapt a shop vac filter with flex tubing to avoid dust and debris on the heat exchanger.
I agree that running the heater full blast is not necessary to prevent carbon buildup. Mine has been used 99% on the lowest setting for 3 years with no carbon buildup.
What is ur opinion, I changed glow plug,put it back on ,started it up worked for aweek than the fault code came up 0 8 ,when I start it up goes for 10 min with glow plug symbol than dissappear,now it blows cool air
e08 is usually an issue with fueling or a clogged (sooted) combustion chamber. Is this a new setup or has it been sitting for a while? can you check that the lines are primed and the pump is pumping?
Hey man,i have the same issue with the later tuneable ecu as it allows the Hz to go down lower than stored but in my case i've found it ignores any Hz lower than set,you are correct about the older ecu not having this bug.
my lcd screen was blacked out when i got home today, its 2 years old, doing its second winter now... does anyone know what the problem is and if i buy a new controller, will that fix the problem ?.
That's weird, the LCD backlight can "fade" over time if they are left powered on all the time. Might be worth turning off the lights and checking if it's not just super dim. Next thing of course would be to check the basics, does it turn on when you press the button? Make sure you have power, the controller is plugged in, etc. If you do need a new controller I would buy one that is paired with a motherboard since your unit is so old. A new bare controller (LCD) may work, but there's a good chance it won't be compatible with the old motherboard.
@@dustyodyssey wow thanks for the reply ! so its totally dead, the heater wont run being the controller is totally dead. all fues's are fine, i cant seem to find anything disconnected on the positive or negative lines. just no reponse. if i buy a new one, ill need to buy it with the motherborad that goes in the diesel heater itself ? thanks heaps for the reply.
@@jaaayg2791 Might be worth checking your power supply with a multimeter, and unplugging the heater for a bit to see if it will reset. But assuming you have good clean power and it’s still not lighting up I would guess it’s an issue with the motherboard or controller so yes, replacing both with a matching set would be my recommendation.
Thank you for that excellent and honest video! I don't even plan to install a diesel heater in my van but I was sticked to my screen for all the video!
Important to note that the moisture in the exhaust pipe comes condensation of the water within the exhaust gas, since burning hydrocarbon fuels like diesel, gasoline or gas creates carbon dioxide and water. When the by cold outdoor air cooled surface of the pipe extracts heat from the exhaust gas, the water will condensate there.
had my all in one for 3 years .. no issues at all ..tho i have made some changes and dismantled it and bought a bigger tank ..ive also mounted pump outside ... i use it every weekend so im pleased with it ... great video
FYI I think the criticism is well deserved. Compared to what was selling just 3 years ago for the same (or less) money, the products that were sent to me are very poor quality. Unfortunately, nothing like this is made in the US, and the name brand options are easily $1200+
Thanks for your review and walkthrough about what to consider when setting up a diesel heater. I'm getting ready to set one up in my Mercedes T2 camper van. In your opinion, would there be any disadvantage to just setting up the entire unit out side, but under, my van? I've got loads of space to work with under the van and I could even conformal coat any PCBs that need it and apply poly to other sensitive connections. I'd prefer this solution because the van was converted 30 years ago to an RV and so there aren't really many optimate spots to mount it directly to the bare metal floor but I do have an area that would accommodate a vent hole to inlet the heat into the van. Either way - cheers and thanks for maintaining your integrity with the reviews, I think it'll serve you well as your channel continues to grow!
As I am sure you are aware, these units are not exactly waterproof. Surely it's possible, but frankly I don't have any experience with what could go wrong. I would recommend having two vents, one for the heated air and one for return air. If the "cabin" air inlet is outside not only is your heater going to be a lot less efficient, but you also run the risk of pulling exhaust gasses into your living space.
Well done video. These things remind me of nearly every tool from Harbor Freight; it’s fine “if” you do this & that! Great deep dive into the guts of these little machines. Cheers and safe travels.
What brand of diesel heater do you have? I've watched too many videos with these cheap heaters and their issues. Lol I looked into the main brand and yes very expensive but there has to be better options. I really want a mini wood stove but those aren't cheap either. Lol very good video, Dusty! I had to share it with another van lifer!
I bought mine (unbranded) from an ebay seller called "echamptrading2017" haha. It actually looks like they are one of the few sellers that are still shipping out the good fuel line, and you can get the "advanced remote" which is tunable. But, with all of this stuff you're kind of taking a gamble that the quality will be there.
All in all you know as much as a person would by reading the manual or watching a few videos like this one that you made I am shocked that you got a company to ship you a couple of these units based on you knowledge.
The complaint about the all in one exaust is certainly not valid as it exactly the same as every other unit. I really have no idea how he makes the claim.
There are numerous videos from numerous content creators, all saying the same thing. If you get an all in one unit that never has any issues, it would be the exception, not the rule.
@xwhite2020 the joint most likely to leak is where the exhaust pipe joints to the unit, this joint is outside when a heater is fitted to the van floor but with the all in one that joint is inside where you are 👍
