Thank You. Ya just gotta pick your people, one at a time. And then we need to think for ourselves. I think we should live a long time and ride our motorcycles as much as possible.
Whoever told you, you would be a good teacher was right on the money. Very thorough and well thought out explanations and techniques. Kudos to you my friend.
Glad u back ..:: Since I hit 60 years old last year and this year I got a flu shot and each time it’s like somebody hit me in the arm with a 2 x 4 🥺, for a good week my shoulder hurt .And really the only reason I got my flu shot is because three years ago my wife got influenza and was sick for about a month I had to fill in for her at work thank goodness she’s only part time. I think that’s the first time she’s went to the doctor since she had our son which was almost 40 years ago. And I told her she better get one this year she did get one last year. It seems to affect everybody differently I’m not much going for the doctor either I ain’t gone to the doctor until I hit 55 . 7 years ago now they got me on a malaria drug for my arthritis I got the two major kinds and it does help and it’s not overly expensive. Best of luck 🖖🏽😊
Thank you very much for this EVO series. I have a 1993 EVO Lowrider with only 12K original miles and hope to get many more miles out of it! . I will be watching the whole series to get up to speed and familiarize myself with the rebuilding process. I am currently busy restoring my old 1970 XLH. Thanks again Mike and stay well!
These videos are great. I watched a video of a twin-cam engine reassembly and he put both heads on loosely, then he bolted up the intake and then he tightened the heads. This ensured the intake alignment.
That's the way we do the old heads, Knuckles, Pans and Shovels. However the Evo and Twin Cam heads only go on the way they go on, no movement. Not a problem though. Thank you.
you sir are a legend, thanks for this series, i grew up during the evo era and loved the sound and quality of the motor, i now own 2, a fxstc and a flhtc, 95 and 96, both are around 80k mileage, the fl is at 88, im fixing to do full re builds and because of these videos i have full confidence, thank you, also you are the bob ross of bikers thank you for these videos
THANK YOU...for sharing. Watched and very much enjoyed. Has to be a tool out there to help hold that engine while you tighten those head bolts, I need all the help I can get. Happy to hear you are feeling better.
Same thing happened to me, been having trouble with thyroid and heart. Told me to get flu shot, less than 2 weeks later got the flu , was down a week. 🙄
David Mann is my favorite artist and I love his story. I’ve talked with his wife a few times and she is really cool. Thanks so much for the great videos Pacific Mike.
Enjoying what you bring. Wisdom becomes you. I noticed no cross pattern on the torque of the head bolts. It is a kind of religious procedure. Just wondering if that was the gasket instructions or the Harley manual. I am getting my 1st Harley (FINALLY) and noticed this change from the previous engine models. Keep ridin’ , keep happy & keep Harley in your heart. DD
I do it how the book calls it out. There are four studs. They're very explicit in how they want it done. I do the heads, cylinders, rings, end gaps, exactly how they call it out. Success rate is awesome.
Thanks again Mike for the thorough narration , I will be replacing the INA cam shaft bearing this spring as I previously mentioned with a Torrington product . Thanks for your reply yesterday , yes my 98 Dyna is bone stock , other than some Arlin Ness pipes & cosmetic grips & air cleaner . So slowly reviewing your EVO video's , Great info you provide bud !
glad you are back , and feel better , will you take the flu shot next year ? other question we have gas with bio ethanol now ,my electraglide 1200 build 1976 with side car is knoking now , already put a elecktronic ignition did not help do you have a solution ? thanks
Thank you. I'll worry about next year, next year. I have no experience with "bio ethanol." Does it have "low octane rating?" I'd like to help you. I will be asking questions from people I know in the next few days.
I have an evo on the table. Nothing wrong that I know of. Was running when we swapped it out for an S&S 107 in my 98 Electra. I was wondering if there was a way to get as much power out of that 80 incher as possible without sacrificing reliability?
I've always felt that every motor I ever got just needed to be awakened. The Evo motor is a perfect example, especially in California. That California cam wouldn't open the valves on a lawnmower. But, this is really an age old question. There's no free lunch. A stock, underpowered engine will probably last longer. So, lets not go crazy with it. A mild cam, a good set of pipes, a more controllable and aggressive ignition system, a bigger and better carburetor and air cleaner. We just spent some serious money. But, if you choose these components wisely, you'll have a nice, smooth, and peppy motor that will hold it's own against the big boys and travel at any reasonable speed for days at a time.
@@pacificmike9501 you gave me the confidence to rebuild my 91 evo that was trashed to running 10,5 arias with ev 72 and flat side mikuni had to shorten v,guides goes great any advice would be great
There’s a certain tranquility to your way. It took me a minute to realize where I’ve seen it before. I mean this as a high compliment, you are the Bob Ross of motorcycle mechanics.
C Mon mike, make a show of when you are walking around these swop meets and all the wonderful parts. You guys are Realy spoilt in the USA with the parts availability
Mike, as usual a great job and ditto to your camera bud. If the opportunity presents itself, what are the chances of you doing an overhaul on a classic that probably was the predecessor that led to what many maybe riding today. A 1965 Pan. A lot of firsts on that year. Again great job.
Most of my stuff is older and what I usually work on. I do stuff as it comes up. But, I've been planning a complete bobber. I mean a real Bobber. A "bobbed" Harley. I sold my '65 back in '78 when I bought a new '77 FLH (which I still have). And, my old buddy I sold the '65 to, still has it. And yes, the '65 had some firsts. We had a cop, when I was kid, who waited behind the first McDonald's and had to kick over his Panhead and try to catch up with me in my hot rod Ford. In '65, he hit that starter button and took off from a "ride off" center stand. He got me. The "firsts" for '65, as I remember them, were: electric starter (first on the Big Twin), 12volt system, recirculating system on the primary chain, with cast aluminum housings, and the centrifigal advance circuit breaker. Oh yes, let's not forget 5 gallon tanks!
Matter of personal preference. But, I put a bunch of 42 mm Mikunis on for real happy people. For big stroker Evos, I put on bigger Mikunis. Way successful. Thank you.
Hi Mike hope all is well love the vids I've been studying them for reference and am doing a top end refresh on my 98 road king in this vid I noticed the piston arrows are facing both in when I took off my heads the other day both arrows were facing forward so I'm a little confused are after market pistons different from stock I have the v twin after market kit cylinders rings and pistons everything seemed to go together well but now I'm second guessing maybe i should pull the heads back off and check valve clearance on each one ?
Thank you so much Mike an Mike!Oh ya I got that oil changed in the 83 shovel with 50 weight and 90 in the 4 speed kicker.I didnt do the primary because of no new gasket.I was going to go ahead and run 50 weight in that also,what say ye,will 50 be ok in that primary?
I don't know what you have. Do you have a recirculating primary or a wet primary and wet clutch. Nowdays, we run multigrade motorcycle transmission lube and you'll need to supply more info on the primary. 50 wt is fine in a Shovelhead, but currently, I'm running 20w50.
@@pacificmike9501 it is a wet primary and wet clutch.Someone blocked the recirculating tubes off so its sealed.i was thinking the 50 would be ok because the recirculating system used the motor oil to oil the primary chain but i am not sure if i should,what would you recommend.
I disagree. The wet systems are designed to hold a quart, which yours is not. Submerging a clutch in 50 wt. would be awful. The plates would stick together. So filling it with a proper primary fluid won't work (It will leak in more places than you knew you had). People who destroy the stock system usually pour a little primary fluid in the bottom of the primary and expect it to oil the chain, which it will, kind of. Then, it leaks out. The made up horror stories about the stock system contaminating their engine usually are just that, made up. I suggest restoring the stock oiling system in your primary.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you so much.I fully understand what you are saying and would love to restore but its not mine and was only ask to change the oils after i rebuilt the ss super e carb for him.Its been running fine shifts really well.I change the tranny with some 90 which it had already and the engine with fifty,.I didnt crack open the primary due to no gasket.It also leaks already from a crack in the inner primary. I suspect it happened because they didnt see your video warning that if you dont match up the tranny to engine properly you crack the inner primary.You are awesome dude no doubt about it.And its proof you make detailed videos with a masters touch of detailed perfection for us late bloomers.
Thank you. The Harley Davidson service manual recommends, I think three torque settings, then a 90 degree turn. The point is that different manufacturers make their gaskets differently. Personally, I go with the gasket manufacturer's instructions. If using Harley gaskets, Harley's way is the way to go. If using James, Cometic, or any other brand, I follow their instructions.
There are 4 head bolts on an Evo. I go by the pattern in the book. If the book doesn't match with your logic or mine, I still do what the manufacturer recommends, and it works.
Ki Mike, Can I assume that when you honed the cylinder and faced the valves in the heads you panted both the heads and cylinders as well as polish the rim edges? Also on your info on piston direction did the arrows on the pistons wind up pointing at each other?
Thanks for the video. Glad you are back to full health. Im still not sure about those flu jabs.... seem to be more trouble than they are worth. Cheers!
And my skin doctor, on my first visit to her, said (rather loudly), "What have you done to your face?" I calmly answered, "This is literally what half a million miles on a motorcycle looks like." We finally agreed, although I needed to start using sunblock, I was pretty fortunate. Maybe a little overused.
I am looking at a 96 dresser with 75.000 on it for $3.000.00 the bike is all there and it runs would you buy it. I don't know bikes past flatheads panheads and shovels. I just got my first bike that I did not have to rebuild before I could ride it. I got a 02 FLSTC with 26 K on it that was a one owner bike.
Sounds good to me. I can't see it from here, but an Evo with 75,000 miles may need new lifters. That's generally about all. Big fear with those, if they haven't been replaced yet.
No do you need to heatsync the motor like running up to 180 let it cool down when I got the 200 and something I have read that is that something that you would recommend
Thanks for your videos. I have a 97 Springer. I am just getting ready to do a complete restoration on the bike. The front end was done a year ago. Brakes last year. Now I am ready to do the motor. I would like to beef it up and fix that lousy stock transmission. It never go into neutral unless I shut the motor down. The has been redone not toolong ago. What size of motor can I beef it up to and can I put a5 or 6 speed transmission in to it? Thanks. Jack
Yes to all of that. Be sure the clutch is working properly before criticizing the transmission. If you consult the factory, you'll find that the transmission is only designed to slide into neutral easily while the bike is moving. Strange but true. I remember when they came out with the 5 speeds. Everyone complained. That 97 should have a 5 speed in it already. The engine's power is just a matter of how much money you wish to invest.
@@pacificmike9501 Hi Mike. Thanks for the fast reply. Well, can I push the size to a 92 cubic without jeopardizing reliability ? Money isn’t a issue up here in Canada. Ha ha. I love my Heritage Springer. We went all over the western states. Not a single problem. Did about 4000 miles. But I think it’s time to do some engine work. I’ve got about 97 thousand on her. Still looking good though. Not a leak anywhere. Again, thanks. “See ya on the road,yea”.
Great Video, never trust a flu shot!!! I get sick every time so I quit them.. last one the wife got it almost killed her, amzing how after that much schooling a doctor is “practicing medicine”. Lol
Hey Mike, Do YOU ever - HAVE you ever - used a Head Gasket Compound ? Maybe on a single layer steel gasket vs the MLS gasket COOP ...............................................
Mike enjoyed the video i am curious to weather you put oil on the nut flange or not? There should be oil on it other wise you could possibly get a false torque reading thanks again keep up the good work
No, it is correct. They know what they're doing. This operation (when followed exactly) stretches the cylinder studs exactly right. Treating the nuts according to the factory matters. It should be followed exactly or slightly modified to conform to the gasket manufacturer's recommendation (which generally translates out to the same).
Take it easy !! the motor still has a long way to go !! till it can get some miles on it !!! we want it in the frame !! burning gas , Thank You !! for all your input .from Rarotonga !!!
Can you tell me how you clean carbon out of the head. Got a 90 Evo, that I'm replacing pistons and valves. Lost of carbon build up. Would like to get them clean as possible. Any help much appreciated.
A bunch of pistons Have been made this way.They both have the same arrow on them. Be sure you've got it right by positions of the valves and that if there is a position, that your piston to go in order to clear the rods
Mike, I haven't seen you do a song and a dance. Now that you've mentioned it, I wouldn't mind seeing you do one. LoL Just kidding, Thanks for the great video.
Pacific mike, In this video I heard you say do not use the cylinder head centering o ring for the comec MLS head gaskets. My question is do you use the 👉o ring👈 for the James Gaskets MLS head gaskets Kit#JGI-17041-92-MLS? I can’t find this information anywhere. Thanks Darrel
I have a question I have an 06 revtech 110 putting compression releases in heads when pulled head off there is no head gasket no rubber o-ring what do I do never been tore apart
I'm not sure what you're saying. I believe you're referring to the O-Ring not being present, not the head gasket missing. If it's the O-Ring you're concerned about, some head gaskets don't use the O-Ring. If the hole is tight on the tube, then the gasket was designed that way. Some do, some don't. Stick with the recommendations of the gasket manufacturer of the head gaskets you buy.
You look really familiar. Did you work at Orange County Harley Davidson in 1999? My memory is failing me but I think you saved my 91 Sportster and me there.
Valves not seating causes a power loss, burning of the valves, and several other possible problems. Smoking is usually caused by worn valve stems and guides, possibly valve seals no longer doing their job or oil getting past the piston rings. Now that smoke is generally bluish because it is oil burning. Black smoke is generally an "over rich" fuel system causing raw gasoline coming out the exhaust pipe.
Hello Mike! I have a question. Finally torquing the heads on my 1993 Evo last night I noticed some spring back on the head nuts. I'm using factory head studs and Feuling head nuts with ARP molly on the threads and bottom of nuts. The spring back is minimal I'd guess 1/8". They are not bottoming out. Just wondering if you'd seen this. Thanks. Hope all is well.
No, I don't think so. You're certainly creating a combination there. I don't use anything on those studs except the light oil I used to clean (and then remove from) the nuts (as per the service manual). Sounds like you've got "stuff" in those closed end nuts. I don't think "spring back" is something I'd want to see there.
Hey Mike! Love the videos, I've binged nonstop since I found em! I'm noob about to attempt a rebuild of my 98 Evo Sportster. I'm looking to buy two torque wrenches, the TEKTON 24335 1/2" 10-150 ft.-lb and the TEKTON 1/4" 10-150 in.-lb. Would these two be sufficient to do the work? Thanks!!
3/8 will be your best all around. I rarley use 1/2" drive torque wrenches working on Harleys. I don't normally use a torque wrench on sprocket nuts. Axle nuts, good idea. Cylinder heads and crankcases, 3/8 drive. Oil pumps 1/4 or 3/8, but inch pounds. I hope that helps. Glad you're enjoying our stuff. Thank You.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for the quick reply Mike! What is the best range for in/lb and ft/lb I should get? I've looked at a 3/8" 10-80 ft/lb and a 1/4 10-150 ft/lb. Will these cover a good ground for working on the Sporty?
First we'd need to know what the motor is. Is it a Big Twin? Sportster? Flathead, Knucklehead, Panhead, Shovelhead, Twin Cam, Evo? What year is it? Go to the appropriate service manual and look up the specification. Is it rebuilt or are you looking for "service wear limits?"
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you sir, I was out of my garage when I was watching your video and the question popped into my head. As you mentioned all the information is in the service manual
Yay! I really don't memorize any specs any more. Too many years and models and designs. And, in checking these things out, I put a lot of time and consideration into the decisions I make as to how I'm going to proceed.
Hello Mike&friends, could you tell me the tightening torque for the cylinder heads of my Evo 1340, year 90. If possible in Kilograms / Meter. Thank you
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike I got hold of a manual last night and was able to do the conversion. I have a problem, the rear cylinder pushrods have lost color, one is longer than the other, could you tell me where each one goes? Thanks🙃
@@pacificmike9501 I was just curious if its worth aligning the intake manifold with the heads before tightening? Since there's a fair amount of twist/play between the studs and the base/spigot end of the cylinders?
Mike, back in the early I was getting the flu shot because my job gave them free. I'm 69 now and I haven't had a flu shot since 2010 and I won't get one. My doc says I should get it plus the shingle shot. Told her I'm rolling the dice, m nobody is injecting me with nada... See you out on the road...
Out of all the things your generation taught me...if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it! Then you go and get a flu shot lol just kidding we like having you around.