I'm glad to see this puck finally yieIded a workable piece of metal. i'm very interested to see how this finishes up and gets heat treated. always appreciate your videos, i learn so much from your videos without the distraction of words and voiceovers. i've been subscribed since you made the first witcher sword and were using leaf springs to forge since that is what i also use. keep up the informative and inspiring work.
For us that don't know squat about it, I wish there was some explanation of what you're doing and why. I've seen many knives forged, but why so many times back to the crucible heat? Why not simply cast the metal into a bar shape to begin with, then make the sword from that? What is the glass all about, keeping air out? Why start with steel that probably isn't the best for what you want to do? Seems to me, if you want to make a blade that ill take and hold an edge, why not melt down old style razor blades? The moly in the steel would make it a more likely steel to use... so a novice thinks anyway.
Oh my fucking G O D ! ! ! Please make it an Ulfberht. I'd love to see it become one. Or turn it into your own style of sword, just include the ULFBERH+T sign on the blade.
What happened with the last 2 attempts? Ive never seen anyone use smelted refined steel before. Only iron ore, glass, silica and carbon all weighed out carefully.
I'm not a smith (a bad shoulder limits me to watching a lot of smithing vids), but I have a question ... you seemed to start with cut up chunks of steel (to which you appeared to add borax and crushed glass), whereas i thought the more classic method of crucible steel was to take the best iron ore you can lay your hands on (ideally with a high iron percentage like hematite, as well as low sulphur and low phosphorus content), grind it up, optionally supplement it with some powdered steel (purely to increase yeild, not for historical accuracy) and then proceed as before. I'm curious as to how the results differ between both approaches.
I know that it's not typically your style of a video but could you put a small description of some of the compounds, grits, etc.? Even something as simple as just showing the name of the products or something; like the Bernax. Great work again, by the way!
I get that. You've been producing quite a bit of videos recently, too. I follow your feeds and you seem to be always on the move with something. Hell, I appreciate you taking the time to respond to my questions. Well, give my suggestion of just showing what you're using for a brief moment. Keep up the good work; I learn a lot from watching what you do. I've even implemented the bolster pinning in one of my recent knives and that idea came from you!
Nice forging job, but it's anti climactic.....Without the blade being heat treated and polished, we can't see if you managed to create the great wootz pattern or if you just carbonized mild steel......
I'm not sure if we have determined that there is actual iron ore on Mars. Otherwise, if one was marooned there, not sure what they could make. @@freerkwieringa275
Mr. Wieringa, glad to see you have put together a viable recipe. I hope you like the carbon content. You have inspired me to build a furnace to try this. I am glad to see your sword came out as well. I can't wait to see how it looks after an acid bath. Question if you canister welded powder 1095 and a nickel Stella powder do you think that the pattern would be like salt and pepper? Just an idea I was thinking about.. Cheers, Martin
This is also called super steel i think its really britle in high temps so need to properly mantain the temp but i like your work its so clean and you make it look as easy
Most pattern welded damascus (usually made from 2 types of high carbon steel differing mostly in nickel content, for visual contrast) is not really considered a "Supersteel" per se, which is a somewhat vague and bastardized term. AFAIK, it usually refers to modern high tech high performance specialty alloys with the highest level performance characteristics. If I had to guess, a damascus blade of this type (read: high carbon steel) probably hardens to around HRC 56-58ish. Maybe a smidge higher if the heat treatment is truly masterful. Most supersteels (again, AFAIK) generally start around HRC 60 and move up from there (i've seen blades rated as high as 68, but theyre likely prone to chipping at that lavel). Stuff like ZDP189, SV30, VG10, A2 blue (not white), et al. I am not a metallurgist, so take that with a grain of salt.
@@NKG416 Metallurgy (and materials science in general) has been advancing in leaps and bounds in response to parallel advances in advanced microscopy and atomic level computational modelling. It's exciting watch.
adding some mild steel to the mix may help it become more workable although the ratio of low carbon to high carbon would need to be determined thru trial and error would i be correct in that assumption?
looking good looks very hard you seem to struggle to move it by hand a bit, sparks are very small as well hope you have a test piece to see how its going to harden up?
Cooling steel down in sand makes it cool very slow and is called normalizing. It refines the grain structure of the steel and takes out the stresses the steel was put under while forging. It also makes the steel dead soft.
Still very interesting and a great forward step towards woozts. Next to mix ore and ‘leafs’ (carbon) in your crucible. The refining looks to be quite complex, but good luck. I hope it goes well.
Freerk Wieringa I went on a wootz making course in Plymouth about 15yrs ago. It was all abit complex, I’m happy pattern welding. I think the different ores produce different patterns.
Freerk Wieringa I’ve been acquiring tools and stock to try make a few knives via stock removal I’ve got myself some bissalloy what’s your thoughts on it as a knife blade?
Freerk Wieringa from what I found on net it’s used as wear plates on earth moving equipment so it’s very hard And I think cold working too I bought a plasma cutter to cut out blanks and grind into shape can’t wait to get started and also to see the end result of your new project
no it did not this time, it was a bit cracked beforehand. if you cast the steel it will be a very brittle sword, the forging is part of the process that makes the steel very tough.
Aye, I didn't mean into a mould of a sword but a billet shaped mould, then forge it. You used glass to seal the billet in the crucible for air? Anyway, that way the crucible would not have been broken.
NepsejNesnhoj wootz is very high carbon. I am not a fan of high carbon steel for swords I prefer the carbon content around 0.7. Also I like very high alloy steel. I am interested in mimicking the contents of meteorite steel
From what I understand from that documentary of the ulfberht, it's also incredibly finicky to work with, as you need to be incredibly careful or the ingot will just crack or shatter if you hammer it even a little bit too hard. This ingot also looked a bit more... porous than the previous one, was that a good sign?
Locahaskatexu there are allot of different types of ulfberht swords some with very high carbon some with very low. The higher the carbon content the lower the melting point. High carbon content makes the forge able temperature range very narrow like 750/850 c. Ideally the carbon content for a sword would be 0.5/0.8. Also high nickle meteorite alloys where used.
I replied to the last email but havent heard back from you. I know you are very busy and I am in no hurry but would like to place an order and arrange payment for a knife and scabbard/sheth.
Freerk Wieringa No problem, if I dont hear from you over the weekend I will email you on Monday afternoon and comment here to let you know its sent. Have a great weekend
