These senior shipwrights/ shipbuilders are the last of a dying breed. Much respect to this guy. He is a good teacher and I’m sure has passed along his trade secrets to some of the younger generation. As a 5 year shipbuilder for DDG 51’s, I try and pick as many brains of the senior mechanics as I can. They are retiring rapidly.
I have a deep love for videos where someone is an expert and they explain their craft to me. I am a school teacher so anyone that can effectively explain difficult concepts, and keep me engaged, is very high in my book. Thanks for this.
I almost skipped through to the end to see just the important bits of the process. Luckily, I realised that the important bits, is everything he is saying as he's working. Massive amount of information, experience and wisdom.
This was a REALL informative video. I agree. 1.5hrs is a big ask... I was loving every minute! This will definitely come in handy with my refit. Thanks for sharing. Special thanks to Chris wherever you are!
Boy Nick, I can see this "O'Kelly Tech" really taking off and providing a truly educational support channel for all of us cruisers. This one was fantastic and Chris is a natural teacher too as well as yourself. I learned so much after watching this video, thanks a lot. Can't wait to see how many more and what different topics we will get. Pete
To those who seem to think that this man's opinion of how to do proper fiberglass repair should take heed! Remember his comment about the lower section of the whole keel wasn't joined with anything but chop strand? And also drilling and filling the voids! If the keel had chop strand the full length, in my opinion would mean to me, open up the keel where the void is, and start the process there! Repair if just a small part of the problem, has Not properly repaired it completely! I have been working with fiberglass and composites and all phases of Glasswork since 1958. Still do not call myself the authority on the subject Yet, heard and observed several things on this review that seemed to not meet with my approval! In closing, I would have been more traditional with the whole process and cut more area out and replaced it all with 1708 and can with polyester resin as the whole vessel is constructed with and when finished properly. Final coat with Epoxy barrier coat before bottom paint! Job Done!
I've watched a bunch of DIY epoxy resin patches done, most above waterline, and some below...but I have never seen a more in depth explanation of the choices and the pros and cons before. I am Subscribing, excellent educational video. At one point when describing vinyl he got cut off when explaining if you could gelcoat directly onto Vinyl or if you needed to do something first before Gelcoat. Wish I got that sentence back..
The DIY question regarding craftsmanship was an excellent question to ask this professional. He really was happy and comfortable to share his knowledge.
I'm impressed with his lifetime experience. I read some of the others comments that were saying his method wasn't the best method, compared to their own. My view of this was, I learned that prepping the layers ahead of the actual epoxy use was best. This was the key to successfully getting the damaged area repaired. Whether the other critical comments are right and this gentleman is wrong, really seems not the issue. His method is very informative. And I think back to my own repairs to my boat, and I now realize I didn't have enuf layers. I only had 4 layers on my hull. This area was under the driver console where I went over a tree trunk hidden under the surface.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you, for taking the time to make this video. If you see Chris please thank him for sharing. He's a true professional, craftsman, and teacher demonstrated by his selfless willingness to share so much knowledge and experience. I have watched dozens of how-to fiberglassing videos and none was as good as this one. I'm just waiting for the snow to melt before I start a similar repair on my Cape Dory. The next time I watch this I will be taking notes. It was also fun to hear the birth of your tech channel. Great idea! Fair winds and safe travels. Geoff from St Paul, MN
You guys are so lucky to have Chris Carl dealing with this repair. Have just spoken with Chris about a repair I need to do on my Contest 43 (Cutter, cruiser). Chris input and suggestions are invaluable! Just wish my boat was still in the Palm Beach area. Many pros can do a good glass repair but very few can be so smart in understanding the integration of the repair with the entire boat's structure and sailing forces. Thank you Chris and thanks Megan and Nick for presenting this work of art!
I've played with fiberglass in the past and I wish I had seen this video 10 years ago. I see how I was doing it for the most part all wrong. I enjoyed Chris as a teacher, I'd love more content like this, doesn't have to be fiberglass, but hands on how to do it content.
Thanks Nick a great video, wow Chris, not only has the skills but is able to articulate what and why. Especially the nuance between epoxy and the other resins. I have bookmarked this, much appropriated :)
All of the questions, that get asked so often, answered clearly and succinctly. Great video. Other things to consider in the polyester vs vinylester vs epoxy decision, for a boater, are shelf life and temperature range. If you're going to keep resin on your boat for repairs at an unknown time in the future, choose epoxy.
Polyester resin will go bad at higher temperature very fast! But will last a long time when cooler-especally in the freezer. For the long haul epoxy is the best! Epoxy is stronger and more flexible.
Thank you for your informative video it's guys like you who make sailing /boating still affordable. Nothing like getting the correct information from a true professional.
Thank you sir, great info and I was just repairing a bathtube. now I feel more confident in using glass to do other things. Central California watching.
This video was just FASCINATING! I really learned a lot and still have a lot to learn, but I loved the details, the explanations, everything! Fantastic work guys! THANK YOU!
Thank you so much Chris, Your a true master at this. Its so rare to have some who can do a repair but to understand all the chemical and mechanical reactions taking place is next level stuff. i am currently working on the for deck and swim platform for a 46 Carver. it has soft spots from the balsa core being wet with water. Also has a non skid diamond pattern in the gel coat. This is my issue. Yes, i am kinda new to this but i also want to master these skills. I just want to say thank you for all this information your giving.
I am on the other side of Florida to you Chris. I have a very similar repair to do on my Morgan 44 keel. I have a larger area with a bigger void to fill. This video has been extremely helpful and will get repeatedly reviewed. I'll take photos and let you know how it goes. Thanks so much. Guys
Hey there Nick, for some reason YT isn't informing me of these episodes. But I'm here now. Interesting technique from this fellow. I'll have to refer this to my goto guy for glasswork. Thanks for the information. All my best to Megs
I've been in the pro 'glass' business on and off for as long as Chris probably. I like everything he is saying.... the one thing I would question is I would prefer to see the CSM layer against the old hull as it provides the better bond with more fiber contact.But with the use of epoxy you will have no problem. Re the epoxy vs polyester ......it's the elongation of the resin that is different. Epoxy is about 5-7% but polyester is 1-2%. But the glass is 3-4% so in an epoxy laminate the glass gets under load before the resin is 'stretched too far' . In the polyester the resin is stressed sooner so the laminate is not as strong. ( sort of) Vinyl resins also have good elongation and also very good chemical resistance , better than epoxy. But they are a pain to work with are they are thick and sticky , like epoxy. All good stuff! Chris has certainly been around and done it all , you were very luck to get him to work on your brown. Re old epoxy resin......the West epoxy does last really well. Some other epoxies if you let them get cold for a long time they will get crystals in the resin. It's still good but you MUST warm it slowly in a water bath at 120-160 deg until they completely dissolve . Then the resin is good again , do not use the liquid stuff without dissolving the crystals in. Oh by the way colloidal silica is used in a lot of food to make it thicker , like toothpaste, ketchup etc.....but fully wet out it's safe! Cheers Warren
Best video i have seen in fiberglassing, great to have this level of detail to know when one needs a pro and if one is getting pro level work or short cuts. thanks a bunch for this great video - best wishes, stay safe
Thanks Chris Lots of good info. I have a sea ray that got lifted by storm surge and left on top of sea wall during Hurricane Sally I will be repairing the keel area in the next month or so temps are getting about right also I will be repairing the swim platform as well some chunks taken out of it. I have only had cursory inspection and I have lots of pics of marina damage lots of total losses. I will post my progress as I proceed if it doesn’t look to bad. Orange Beach area got hit hard we probably lost 30 to 40% of boats.
I have watched many fiberglass work videos and you get a few bits of information here, a few there and have to try to put it all together in your head. But this... this is thoroughly covered and complete. A DIYer's wet dream. Great idea, great channel so far. I'm sure we'll get some equally good sewing projects displayed here as well, right?
Never used them on fiberglass, but have 2 pairs of Fiskars scissors that I bought as a set for $5 at a swap meet 40+ years ago and they still look and cut like new.
The boat construction is interesting. It looks like the keels are just bolted and glued onto the main hull. Apparently with little faring I too! At least keel damage will not effect the integrity of the hull . I was surprised he thought the white was fairing and not just over thick gelcoat. Re chopped strand glass/mat ... 95% of all fiberglass products are made with with this. Most boat have the higher strength woven or linear fiberglass in them for extra strength with less weight. 'Visqueen' an old British brand name for ordinary polyethylene plastic film. If you use Mylar film ( a polyester film) it won't wrinkle as not effected by the solvents. But is won't stretch either. Chris is a wealth of knowledge , thanks for posting. Cheers Warren
This is a lot different than acft repair. After repair would be started with the smaller patch going on first and then work your way up to the largest patch. But I like how you do this.
In the military for aircraft repairs, we build (simple explanation) the center out. But of course, we use hot bonder and vacuum for 99% of all wet layups. I'm curious, so I'm going to watch the complete video.
Awesome video...the best one i have seen about fiberglass..Chris is an expert at doing it but most important at getting you to understand it...well done Nick!
Just finished my first keel repair on a 14ft Marlborough dart. Followed almost the exact instructions from the west system fiberglass repair manual. Which is arguably comprised of years master tech experienced and knowledge. Should have saved myself ten bucks and watched this video. nice job. and for people commenting they would apply CSM first and polyester resin . I don't know why you would, when a vinyl ester or definitely epoxy resin is far superior in adhering to the old surfaces
Dave did you use fiberglass when you fixed your keel I have keel damage but the fiberglass is not hurt just the gelcoat so I don't know if I could just put epoxy back over it or I have to add cloth to it
@@JamesWhite-tg4kw I used several layers of bi axial cloth at different widths. Mine was in a very bad way. Is the gelcoat is worn through in a large area because it's been brought up on the hard or the sand many times or just minor chips from small impacts.
I hope this man has an opportunity to teach SOMEONE , unbelievable knowledge that should be passed on . 🙌this is a professional take note 📝 ppl. Thanks for sharing 🙏
Wow. Wonderful information. I was tempted to take notes and I don't even own a boat. But this certainly makes me appreciate how much skilled labor goes into professional glass repair below the waterline. Would vacuum-bagging the repair area be best for the strongest patch, or overkill?
One of the things I’ve always done in my business is buy the best products, regardless of cost. I’m 30 years in and just have referrals for my business. Zero internet or yellow pages for 25 years now.
For the viewers…Epoxies have many formulations for different use cases (they are not all the same). It is important to select an epoxy for the application: existing material(s) to which the epoxy will bond, strength characteristics (not all epoxy is flexible), surface prep, final depth of fill, ambient conditions, and time to cure. Manufacturers specs are crucial. Silica hardens the matrix (a bit like aggregate in concrete) not change brittleness appreciably (unless too much is added). If the manufacturer doesn’t spec silica adds, experiment on sample coupons before doing the actual repair.
I'm excited to learn how to do 'glass work. I randomly discovered through work (I'm in IT) that I really enjoy soldering. I suspect that 'glass work would likewise be satisfying.
30:00 As someone who have worked decades with fiberglass, i am amazed that this guy have no clue why the CSM (Chop strand mat) on the back of the bidirectional is there for.... CSM there is to ensure adhesion to the directional layer from the next layer and effectively bonding those 2 directional layers together. think glueing 2 pieces of wood together as an X - not happening! Now add a bonding layer that both growth directions of wood have can adhere to and you are in bsns. Also it is to smooth out the layer between the 2, so that you have a straight layer instead of an curvey one - which can stretch or at least have no pull strength. Scraping off the CSM like he is doing, makes the laminate prone to delamination. Leaving it in clumps as he does, defeat the purpose of it - to make the directional have a straight line. Anyway - directional mats have no better value than normal CSM, when applied to small repperations, unless as repair for an already reinforced (directional) layer. For a keel the main focus should be on compression force, since that is the force it is undertaking the most - applying directional to a small area like that is simply just unprofessional. But hey, if you get someone to call yourself expert or pastor, you can get away with anything......
I was looking for this comment so I didn't have to post it. For a "pro", he misrepresented poly and vinylester resins calling epoxy "better". The resins are situational and depend on many factors that do not include what you can get your hands on. He also didn't cover ameline blush from epoxy, he just said you need to sand it. Then he went backwards on his 1708 cutouts (that i know is controversial so ill let that one go). He sounds like he watched a bunch of RU-vid videos and tried to sound like a pro. I've been in this business for 15 years and im still learning but im glad I know enough to not learn from this guy. Ill give him a D but that is only because he must know some stuff so I won't give an F. I do give an A for his level of bullshitting and used salesmanship qualities. Anyhow, was fun to listen to in the background while at the shop working on a 1977 mako 17 full restore, the right way. Also, fumed silica is not called goopy stuff.
@@MRScrubNasty Andy from Boatworks is very knowledgeable on fiberglass check it out if you haven't he states use smaller fiberglass as the first base and work outwards to larger pieces. It would have more strength and bondage.
