Explaining Fault Error Codes Fisher & Paykel/ Elba/ Smartdrive Washer / Washing Machine Beeping 

Wow. Must be a Very hungry mouse! All my years of fixing these machines I've never had a broken wire or connector on the motor. Well done!

Yes I know. Especially when this is the only video on RU-vid about these fault codes. Thanks for your comment

Mate you're a legend. Thanks heaps for sharing your knowledge with the DIY repairers of the world!! I can only think they are half blind and thinking thay are clicking like!

I would imagine the only people that would dislike the video would be the overcharging repair guys! Awesome video BTW & thanks for posting (absolute legend).

I wonder if the dislikes are because you didn’t go through and explain every single possible fault. Only reason I can think of. This was perfect thanks

That's great. Glad to help....... Yes I have found coins, nails, hairclips, pop rivets, needles and of course lots of fluffy soapy crud that have stopped the pump working. Smart drives ARE great to work on. They can be dismantled completely in 5 mins

Paul P

You're welcome

Do you remember the fix?? The manual is saying it's an issue with the cold valve harness...

I am a bit naive when it comes to that sort of thing. I will look into it, thank you

You're welcome 😁

Do you remember the fix?? The manual is saying it's an issue with the cold valve harness...

Taken from the service manual: With hot and cold both flashing during wash cycle can mean 3 things. --The hot tap is not turned on even if you are using "cold wash only" option. -- The drain hose is too low and is slowly siphoning the machine. The drain hose should loop up higher than the lid of the machine. -- The machine " size settings" are wrong. To set the size switch turn the power on at the power point and off at the console. Press and hold the TEMPERATURE UP button then press the POWER button. Smartdrive will give 4 short beeps and the pattern of LEDs will change. • Press TEMPERATURE UP button, the COLD LED is on for 5-5.5kg (560mm wide). • Press WATER LEVEL UP button, the LOW WATER LED is on for 6-6.5kg (600mm wide). • Press SPIN SPEED UP button, the SPIN HOLD LED is on for 7-7.5kg (650mm wide). • Press POWER to exit this mode I hope this helps

You are lucky to still have a working control board after that fuse pops, well done for replacing it. The pump ohms should read around 33 ohms when it's cool. But also pull off the plug on the pump and check the ohms at the pump terminals. Lean the machine back against the wall to get to pump. It could be those brown and white wires could be shorted together giving you a false reading (which would be extremely rare because it's usually the pump)

There's a broken or dirty connection to the motor. If you have a multimeter: Watch this but forward fast to 5.00 mins ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5GPBq3XKZMk.html This will help you test the motor wiring. You will get different readings for your model. Maybe 39 ohms between phases. To get to the motor watch this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pUrtHJ-1kPI.html Check the 3 wires with red blue and yellow plugs are not loose or broken.

Download this manual and go down to page 31 and it's all explained from there. Check page 34 too drive.google.com/file/d/1c5VGP6zECHgCjqph3ymcGmwROKvhrbpP/view?usp=drivesdk

Watch this it may help. Please note that your voltage if 110v is different in the US ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PiDXHoRdYTs.html Check the resistance of the drain pump also

Here's the workshop manual drive.google.com/file/d/0B-WRto5B9zZTOWhiaEFWbFJKWXM/view?usp=drivesdk Page 6

@@paulywooly Well..... I removed the pump from the machine. It LOOKED ok and impeller spun freely. So I followed your video (1st cobbling together a cord with spade terminals I happened to have in the garage) and shazam - within about 2 seconds of plugging the pump in, it gave off sparks and smoke! Ok that baby is bad! Thanks Mr. P.

Check the wiring and the connectors from the valves to the control unit. If they are ok, unfortunately it's a faulty control unit

That is a pump error code, not diverter valve. Download this manual www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=applianceassistant.com/ServiceManuals/200437_fisher_and_paykel_gwl10us_eco_smart_electronic_washing_machine.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiwyJn7kKvjAhUMfH0KHS2cACEQFjAFegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw3P43h-oMpLEVTpNOaM9UqD Error code 37 at page 20 It's common for an old pump to overheat. Run the pump for at least one minute. Switch off at the wall and lean the machine back and reach under on the right of the machine and feel the pump. It should be just slightly warm. If it's hot, replace it. When they refer to the "basket", they mean the inner stainless steel bowl. Look closely at the inner bowl holes. Check for blocked holes . If some of them are blocked then the machine needs servicing. When they refer to 3 and 4, removing the basket, my other video explains how. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HNY54gTrcB0.html Hope this can help you

Error code lights don't flash they stay on solid. With the lights flashing, switch off at the wall and leave off for a good 5 mins before turning back on. This can help reboot everything.

Along with the filter inside the valve itself there is sometimes a gauze filter at each end of the hoses. Check them too. It is extremely rare for both valves to become jammed shut Watch this but you probably have already done this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PhdklAeHoTg.html

There is no error code 255. If all lights are on, check that no other lights are flashing such as the hot or cold or water level lights. If the hot or cold are on means an inline water filter is blocked

It depends on the model number. Which model do you have.( printed on the sticker on the back)

This may help ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iIqukxSZvsI.html

Paul P its an (F&P) MW511

You need to test the coil with a multimeter first. My other video in that link above shows this. Undo the 2 screws at the back and lift off the display panel. Pull off the wires of the water valves and test the resistance

@@paulywooly Thanks so much Paul. You're a legend. You should enable ads for your videos: support.google.com/youtube/answer/94522?hl=en Helps pay for the party.

Which model do you have. If you have replaced the solenoid then maybe it's faulty wiring to the solenoid or faulty control unit. Follow the wires back to the control unit and look for any breaks. Unscrew and Pull out all the wiring plugs and hose to the control unit and remove it. Undo the clips (or screws) on the control unit and open it up. On later model air cooled units, the solenoid wires are a separate plug on the circuit board which maybe dirty and need cleaning. On water cooled units they are hard soldered to the board. Check the plugs at each end of the wires with a multimeter for continuity. Check with a magnify glass for broken tracks on the circuit board that lead to the valve wiring plugs.

I need the actual model number printed on the back at the top.

Doesn't sound good. Switch off at the wall for 5 mins should clear the stuck diagnostic mode. Water leaking from a smart drive is USUALLY a leaky water pump or a cracked drain hose.

Don't know whether I can help...which model is it. The label on the back will be something W then 3 numbers

It is a GWL11 model. I'm thinking the mother board may have a fault.

+Dennis Atkinson . Try disconnecting and reconnecting the plug at the control unit. Follow the wires from the cold valve to the control unit. Slightly lift the white tags and lift out the plug harness. I have found this in the past where the plug has a dirty connection to the valve. Or get a multimeter and read the resistance across the valve. Read this might help too... ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2421931/fisher-paykell-gwl11-stuck-in-code-49 Sorry I can't be much help.

if it's still beeping with the same fault code then the hot/cold 2amp fuse has blown which requires someone abled to solder the fuse to the motor controller.

Not sure whether you can change the options on MW512. Check page 24 here laundry.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/fisher_paykel/mw512.html

Hope this helps. I made a video especially for you! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rhW6JPKmWGw.html

00100101 is a pump blocked error. Check for a kink in the drain hose. Otherwise you need to remove the pump but this will dump all the water that's still inside. Remove the agitator and scoop out as much water as possible and take the machine outside if you can and remove the pump. Watch my other video on how to. Check for coins etc that could jam the pump

There is no error code 224. It does sound like a motor control fault. Try switching OFF at the wall then hold the power button down for 30 seconds (Much like resetting a laptop) . Also Lift the display off (undo the 2 screws at the back) and check all connections are tight

yeah... did all that and still no action. Cost of new controller equal to what I paid for the machine 2nd hand so looks like I'm going shopping for a new one. Thanks for your time anyway!

I think you can do this on Phase 4 & 5 models only..........Hold down Regular button for 3 seconds until it beeps twice. Push advanced button continuously to get the time LED'S that you desire....(Each LED=3 minutes)..... Push Regular button again to finish

Yes you can and phase 3 as well.

The first or second orange light ?

What is your fault code?

It seems odd that that has happened after replacing the bearings. You shouldn't need to touch the water solenoids or the motor control unit to replace the bearings. 1. Just check the wiring to the solenoids at the motor control end. Check that plug has a good connection to the board. 2. In the past I have had water solenoids open circuit after they warm up, giving the fault code, but they test good when they're cold. 3. Or a faulty transistor or fuse on the main board. Check my video on "error 49 cold valve fault but valves check ok" Or my other valve videos Are you in NZ?

@@paulywooly yes i am

@@paulywooly i had to touch the water valve and motor controller unit so i could take the top off

@@ryderearlesroblox8620ok. You shouldn't need to. I have done lots of bearing replacements and also have a bearing replacement video (an earlier model than yours but they're all the same) and the whole top comes off without removing the motor control unit at all. Just a few plugs that go down to the bottom. But anyway, is it still showing the 49 error code?

@@ryderearlesroblox8620 Check your Product code number (very important ) on the sticker on the back or the part number sticker on the motor control This is my supplier: www.appliancespares.nz/products/fisher-paykel-motor-control-module-421234nap

Mmmm.....That's a tricky one (it COULD be a faulty Rotor Position Sensor) But just try this first With an empty machine and switched off, turn the inner bowl of the machine and the agitator should turn also. With 2 hands, lift up the inner bowl and it should lift up easily by 1 inch then clonk to a stop. With it still lifted up, turn the bowl slightly and the agitator should NOT turn. If you cannot lift the bowl easily by an inch means the floating clutch has not disengaged and something is jamming it. Lift the cup out of the agitator and reach down and undo the wing nut and lift agitator out, check for foreign objects underneath and try lifting the bowl again To see the last error the machine had: Turn the power on at the power point but off at the machine. Press and hold the WASH TEMP DOWN button and then the POWER button until the machine gives 2 short beeps and lights up. Release the buttons Last fault can be found by pressing the SPIN SPEED UP button three times. The HOLD and SLOW lights should be illuminated. The code can then be read from the 8 wash progress lights at the top If no code is displayed then watch my video of how to test the machine parts if you are handy with that sort of thing. Your machine is a Phase 6 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5GPBq3XKZMk.html or the Rotor Position Sensor replacement ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pUrtHJ-1kPI.html I hope this is some sort of help to you

Paul thank you for a speedy reply & much needed information in determining a repair solution. I'm going to give it a go and I'll keep you posted.

All models except the model that starts with IW.

I'm afraid it's a very rare problem with what is called the pressure transducer inside the main control unit under the front panel. The only way to fix this problem is to replace the motor control unit which can be expensive but they are certainly still available on the web or eBay. Make sure you get the correct unit. Undo the 2 screws at the top back of the front display panel and lift it off. The motor controller is underneath and should have the part number label on it. The units come in 5 different colour models- Blue, green, yellow, grey or brown. Plus there can be 4 or 5 different type brown ones. If you cannot see a motor controller label let me know the model number on the back of the washing machine. Good luck

I literally just got the exact same fault code.

Out of interest when did you purchase your machine and what model? Elba WA55TM purchased late 2009 here.

Very sorry to hear. A blown main fuse in the control unit usually means a major meltdown, especially if it is a dark grey one (phase 5) they are known to be bad for it. Things that cause it are faulty water pump, power cuts or surges in your house. I have tried to replace main fuses in the control units in the past but NEVER had any success. A new motor control unit is always needed. You MUST check resistances to the pump, water valves, lid and out of balance switches with a multimeter before fitting a new motor control unit. See my other video. Hope this helps

Sometimes when you test the water valves when they are cold they test ok. But the valves can become faulty when they warm up and you will get a fault code. Otherwise you can have a faulty motor control unit which will need replacement. What is the model number of your machine?

@@paulywooly Model number - Gw712, Serial no. -- BPN595013 Motor controller pass SD12 420376

Watch my other video, it should help hopefully but let me know if you need more help ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iIqukxSZvsI.html Read the whole description to explain a bit more

Thanks for help Paul. I managed to get a motor controller board (used part) and replace it successfully. It would not be possible without your videos (problem detection)

You're very welcome. Sorry to hear it was the motor control because they are expensive.

Push the power button

If the fault code is blinking (usually with no beeping)...try pushing the power button twice and see if it returns to normal. If not, what is the fault code

What is your fault code when it beeps.

@@paulywooly 68

66 sorry

@@misaotearoa2716 Oh no, 66 is a very rare fault. Try removing the lid and unscrewing the 2 screws behind the display panel and pull the panel towards you. Pull off the clear plastic tube from the control unit and blow down it. You should hear the blowing sound coming from down in the washing machine bowl. Put the tube back in and try the machine again. If 66 happens again then the control unit needs replacing , according to the service manual.

@@paulywooly thank you will try that tomorrow

I need a model number please. a sticker on the back left

Thanks heaps for responding so fast. The model is GW612. Peter

That's a phase 6 machine with an out of balance (OOB) switch. If the switch is triggered or faulty it will slow the spin speed down. If you are that way inclined to do some tests, get hold of a multimeter, you can watch my other video about testing smart drives. Test the OOB switch, see if that helps and get back to me

I've replaced the OOB switch & now the water is pulsing when filling. From what I've read I need to alarm the new balance switch but I cannot find out how to do this. Can you help with this too please?

sounds like you may have 2 faults, if the OOB switch was faulty. It now sounds like the rotor position sensor. Can you watch my other video about "pulsing while filling" should help you.

Mine starts beeping and all the lights are showing. No code for that.

Which model is it, there is a sticker on back left. or this may help you ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pUrtHJ-1kPI.html

Mine is a GW711 and now it won't drain. I just replaced the broken lid and before that it was draining fine but not spinning and I think that was because the lid lock wasn't working because it was broken. Please Help me.

If the lid lock is broken you can read how to remove it from here. Or download the whole manual (click the download at top left) www.manualslib.com/manual/820531/Fisher-And-Paykel-Phase-6-Series-11.html?page=12#manual Slightly better instructions can be found here www.manualslib.com/manual/787840/Fisher-And-Paykel-Smartdrive-Phase-7.html?page=48 A blocked or jammed pump can cause it to not drain but it's weird that it was draining beforehand....or a faulty or blocked diverter valve. This might help too (disable the lid lock) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EdnH90GGOcs.html I really hope this helps and you can get this sorted yourself without having to call a technician.

can you tell me the exact fault code. e.g. 00100100

Not sure whether your comment is meant for this video?

They are made in NZ.

and it wasn't a sensor that fail but the cold solenoid valve, neither did he turn the washer upside down. hahahaha

Which model is it ? The following is from the service manual. Hope this helps: (01101001) Phase 2 to 5 - Comms. Error Time-out These faults are reported when the Display module detects an error in the communications between the Display module and the Motor Controller. NB. If the product is an IW, check that the motor controller is not 426520. If it is replace with a compatible part. This is incompatible and will give a fault code 105 at the start of agitate. Not before! If it is a 426520 replace motor controller with a compatible part. Primary Source - Display module Action - Replace Display module. Secondary Source - Motor Controller Action - Replace Motor Controller Tertiary Source - Rotor Position Sensor (Phase 5 Only) Action - Replace Rotor Position Sensor. If the new Rotor Position Sensor corrects the fault refit the original display module and motor controller.

What's the code?

Paul P ik if I send u a video can u help

Put a video on RU-vid and send me the link. I'll see if I can help

56. (00111000) A rare fault Several remedies: 1. Rearrange the load so that the clothes are evenly distributed around the bowl, or select a higher water level. If the load was to one side of the bowl or too heavy it can be possible for the agitator to bind in one direction when trying to sense bowl float. 2. Check the machine is not syphoning. The loop in the drain hose at the back must be higher than the water level in the machine 3. Check that there are no clothes or other foreign objects preventing the clutch from reengaging, and that there aren’t any defects with the clutch mechanism. With 2 hands lift the internal bowl up. It should lift up 1 inch and stop and spin freely, but not the agitator. Then it should click back down on the spline and when the bowl is turned the agitator will turn also. 4. Check that the pressure tube has not come off and that it is not kinked. Undo 2 screws behind the display and check the clear plastic tube is connected to motor controller with no kinks. You may need to pull the lid off to lift the front display up 5. Rotor Position Sensor faulty .. Replace the Rotor Position Sensor. 6. Replace the Motor Control Module.

Just try switching the machine off at the wall for 1 minute and try the machine again. I suggest to do a cycle with only water in the machine on "low" water setting, and no clothes. See if that clears the fault

@@paulywooly Thank you Paul, but unfortunately I was doing a load and right now it is full of water and clothes when it started to rinse my pipes were clogged. I have a septic tank and so today I called the septic guy to pump it and Shernoff it was clogged. I should’ve hit pause instead of unplugging it on a full load as it was splashing all over the floor. That’s what interfered it looks like with my circuit breaker panel or motor control module.

@@ladymarie8172 oh no, 😞 sorry to hear. Expensive load of washing.

@@paulywooly time for another one 😞

When it's filling it should rotate slowly. If the filters are blocked in the hoses it will just rotate only. Check the filters at each end of the hoses. Also the filter inside where the hose connects to the machine. They need to be removed with pliers. Try a hot wash and see if water goes in. The water valves can also seize shut. Hope this helps. Let me know and we'll go from there.

+Paul P ok i got going now the problem is that when is about to rinse, the lid swich ligth blinks and also the ligth that is on top of the rinse blinks and beeps, if i push start, keeps going, and they stops again, is like pause by it self

This is from the handbook.... Lid Lock LED Flashing This warning is generated if the electronics have detected that the lid has not been closed. 1. Check that the tang on the lid is not bent or broken. 2. If the lid is closed and the tang is ok, replace the lid-lock assembly

+Paul P thank you, you think can i bypass it ? like kenmore and whirlpool lid swiches? just to see if thats tje problem?

I hope this helps ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EdnH90GGOcs.html

What's the fault code?

@@paulywooly it's 50, but I've pulled it apart and the display module has fried. Quick search of eBay found a secondhand replacement for under $40. I just need it to get us through Christmas until I can buy us a new machine. Merry Christmas and a happy New Year to you and your family!

PS After swapping out the display module, I got a fault code 9. A quick Google search and I'm doing washing again! Yay!

Yes. You should have set the size settings with a new display and you're away. Well done you !