I have eheim filters on both tanks for water circulation. Each filter only contains bio media, no foam pads. I ended up doing this for a few reasons: 1. It takes up less room in the tank compared to a powerhead. 2. They were on sale for under $75. 3. I can quickly add a filter pad to clear up the water if i disturb it after heavy planting or trimming.
Thank you so much!!! I listen to you and Father Fish explaining the Walstad Method listening to both prospective is very informative. I do review several and take notes Im teaching my students about ecology is this the best way to teach them. We are doing the Walsted Method, the high tech method and the Father Fish Method
Sorry for the confusion, lots of information out there, so let me clarify; First, this is a video series on how the Walstad method works, it is not a tutorial on how to start up a new tank. Take a look at my build series on how to start up a new tank using Walstad's principles and methods. Second, YES you should use a dechlorinator and chelator to remove the chlorine, chloromines and metals contained in your water. I use API tap water conditioner. Look for one that contains EDTA.
For plants, you can typically plant the same day. Looks like a good plant list, you always need some fast growers to handle nutrient uptake. I would suggest floating the water wisteria for a week or two in the beginning to help with the initial ammonia uptake, but you could plant it as well. typically, having some floating plants in the beginning help to avoid potential ammonia burn since it is a new tank that is going through a cycle.
Thank you very much Joe! you answer almost every question I asked. I am totally unfamiliar with planted few months ago while searching on you tube I found video uploaded by you. I saw complete series of your Walstad method building log and after it I purchased her book, which I completed ones now going to read second time the book is really complicated to understand for first reading that's way I am taking tips with you time to time. As you already has command and experience on low-tech tanks.
Last 2 weekends, I converted my 3 ft tank into a dirted tank. Aside from elodea and hornwort, I planted pennywort plants as well. I just gathered it from our garden. Until now, my swordtails are ok. Though I can't put tiger barbs on it because my plants are still growing.
first i wanted to do the walstad method because it looks great and takes relatively low effort for saving tons of electrical costs. but now it has a whole other aspect to it, it is natural, if you think about it this is how fish are supposed to live; in natural water without being stripped of crucial natural defence mechanisms and substances. really great i will get into the book tommorow
Love it used this method in my sumps recently started switching to fish that won't destroy plants. Tanks are way more stable better growth. Great video!
@asher45kate Excellent points which i will add to. Plants too can succomb to metal toxicity and even chemical toxicity. Ive seen other people, especially with new tanks, watch their plants die of ammonia toxicity. In your case of metal toxicity, I would not consider an aquarium without pretreating, as you mentioned. Under "normal" conditions though, the stored metal is removed during normal plant trimming or through chelation by the DOC in the tank, if released in the water.
I have seen tanks on the web that utilize dirt as the primary substrate but I ask myself why? Although there is some merit in Ms. Walstead's book, it was I believe her Doctoral thesis, but the complexity of using dirt far exceeds the purpose. I realize not everyone chooses to spend 200 to 300 dollars on substrate as I have but Flourite and ADA soil are the best substrates I have used and require far less work in terms of the initial layout, and subsequent maintenance! Just an observation.
If I I have a Walstad tank and decide to add filtration on top of it, would the ecology of the system then depend on that additional filtration? In other words, if you want to do a Walstad tank is it all or nothing from the beginning?
That tank is a Marineland 47 gallon column tank and its 31" tall. I have 2 23 watt 6500K compact fluorescent bulbs in clamp lamps from Home Depot. But the majority of the light come from that window on the right. Walstad recommends a southern exposure but you work with what you have so I use the blinds to control the amount of light since eastern light is stronger. I do not change the water in this tank, I did in the beginning but for 6 months now I just top off 5 gallons every 2 weeks.
@vgalvanrico from background to foreground: Vallisneria americana on the left, Anacharis on the right, large and small Ozelot swords and in the very front are 4 bronze crypt wendii. There are 2 green crypt wendii behind the small sword which are hard to see and also a spiral vallisneria which I was hoping would grow out more than it has.
I still let my tanks cycle before I add fish. Once ammonia/nitrates are 0ppm I add 1-2 fish every 2 weeks. This allows the bacteria to build to meet the new bioload. Small fish like red tetras I have added 6 at a time. In the beginning, I monitor and test water every 2 days till the cycle ends, then every week for the first few months. 1 year later..its self sustaining, I top off water and clean the glass 2-3 weeks, feed the fish 2 times a day and clean the canister filter once a month
Thanks @Jwhiser1302. I try to keep the information as simple as possible so that its understood by a broader audience. Hopefully people will understand the interactions and it will make for a better fish keeping experience.
Internal filters are fine. You don't need much filtration, its more about water movement for oxygenation and circulation. I eventually moved to an external filter because it was easier maintainence but I only use the course pad to catch large particles and the expanded clay pellets for additional bio filtration. No charcoal...it strips the organic carbon which is healthy for the tank.
Awesome info hoss! You know this info for this method comes from primary production and the Calvin cycle of photosynthesis? Great information again bro and very interesting! Looking forward to more vids!!
Diana recommend in her book "Ecology of Planted Aquarium" that thanks height shouldn't be 18" inches taller but, you tank looks taller then 18" what is the height of your tank? and which and how may watts of lighting you are use for lighting your tank? how many times in the week do you change water from your tank? and how much time later you put fish in your tank after putting the dirt in the tank? do you perform some test for you dirt tank like, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, Ph etc.. how often?
I don't amend my soil but nothing wrong with it. Just be careful. If you use clay, for example, putting too much in can leech excess iron which leads to iron toxicity in plants. Honestly, for your first tank, I would stick with the basics when it comes to soil and focus on the types of plants, their needs and the fish you want to keep. The simpler it is, the easier it is for you to understand and maintain your tank. Also, some of these things will affect water chemistry so be careful.
I don't have window light source in my room? so, for the tank measurement of (48" long x 24" wide front to back 24" tall bottom to top) 4 23 watts compact florescent will work, these bulbs are made by Phillips namely Philips tornado spiral bulbs input 23 watts where output = 100 each bulb. totally new to dirtied tank any really need your help. lots of thanks in advance.
Few tips form you side may help me to find right path. finally my recipe is 10 part soil 1 part clay 1.5" - 2" layer and caped with 2" layer of coarse sand/play sand. No organic mater No fertilizer No chemical if you approve my recipe I will create a build log and will show you. This is also teach me a lot. Again a lots of thanks.
He also wrote that when you add soil in tank that time you add 1 part clay to 10 part of soil. he also sprinkled a very thin amount of Dolomite and Muriate of potash at the bottom of tank. I want to ask to you that is it necessary to add Dolomite and Muriate of potash with soil clay mix? I have read about the Color temp of light and my 2 23 watts bulbs have 6500K power in my 107 litter 23/imperial gallon tank.
Sounds good, except for the cap. sand is fine but not 2" deep. Gravel is the typical recommendation and would work for that depth because its big enough to allow water to permeate and keep the soil aerobic. Sand will compact, make it difficult to get oxygen to the soil and cause anaerobic activity. For sand, no more than 3/4" will be fine. I used sand in my 47 and its great, but is a pain to keep that way, especially when you pull plants out.
As per your recommendation I'll not use coco husk in my tank, want to confirm few more things to you. if I make soil in this manner ( 10 parts soil with one part clay mix ) will it good? yesterday I join an community Aquatic plant central where I found an article author of that article is Aron. Tablbot taught how to make mineralized soil. He said before putting soil in the tank it may be soak and dry 3 - 4 time in air this will increase the mineralizing process of soil.
I started dirt tank with one of my angels pair I was keeping for 8 months after one month my male died with swollen belly disease my tank was 107 litters I just placed angles as I put dirt in my tank. no co2, no fertilizers. I don't have test kits. just use tap water. first store water into bucket and second day I use it for partial water change weekly. could you please tell me where I am on mistake? one more question dirt can be cover with sand? like yours?
4 23watt should be a good start, though with a 24" deep tank, you might need 6 staggered to get good coverage. I had good luck with my Sylvania bulbs with the same spec wattage. Do you know what the kelvin ratting is? That's pretty important, you are shooting for something in the 5500-6700K (color temperature) range and the closer to 6700K the better. Mine are 6500K. And don't forget the plants, do some research on the plants needs..know your plants before you grow your plants! :)
Very helpful tips! I am going to set-up an aquarium with the measurement of (48" long x 24" wide front to back 24" tall bottom to top). This time I am interested in fish-less cycle, what should be ammonia source for starting the cycle? as planting substrate can I go with River Silt with Coarse Golden sand. I have tons of coco husk available if i use it as humic substance source in the bottom of tank will it be OK? as you told dacying leaves provide humic substances so does coco husk?
MrJoeGechko, thanks for the great video. I have 2x24w T5HO for a 29g tank. Do you consider that moderate light? What plants do you recommend? I am looking for fast growers to soak up the nutrients. I have a green water problem right now.
I'm lovin this series!! Can't get enough info. lol You have almost convinced me to take out my carbon filters. If i did, would plain filter foam suffice?
Any increase in carbonate hardness (KH) will effect the water Ph. in my case, having Ph fo 7.8 will marble increases Ph more? AS i told you i am interested in raising angels in my tank. Please tell me after setting dirt tank and proper cycling Discus can be kept in dirt-planted tank. eager to read from your side.
Thanks for the info. I'm might start a new tank with this method. The Q's are you using any filters cause, your plants in the background are moving? Are you using a Fan just to move the water around as well?
Thank you very much Joe! One more question, as before knowing about Soil/planted tanks, I was using Crash Marble in my tank as it is widely and cheaply available in my country. I was using 1.5 - 2mm size gravel in my tank, but in recent research I found that mostly Marble contains Lime Stone in it and may increase carbonate hardness (KH) of water. So will you please tell me can I use marble for capping the soil. I want to keep some angles in such tank. Ph of my tank is around 7.8.
Cool thanks for letting me know, however, I was asking him if he was aware of the cal cycle. And when if comes to anything about plants and photosynthesis the cal cyc is def relavent I would think. This was a great vid though!
This is awesome. I’m about to start some small aquariums based on this. My well water is CRAZY hard and alkaline (8.0/8.2). I’ve been getting a spring water at the local store that’s 7.6 or so. Any ideas? I just don’t want to mess with bypassing the softener and then having that hard of water. Ironically I had a gorgeous tank of African rift cichlids years ago, but now I’m into the plants.
So would an iron ion be more easily absorbed by a plant if it hasn't bonded with any of the carbon? Harder water might help detox heavy metals because of the buffing capacity, but could then make it harder for plants to take up, yes?
few question about substrate and filtration, coarse sand/play sand can be use to cap the soil? as well I can't afford external canister filter, in my country the worth is from 5000K to 12000K so if I go with internal filter can I keep a good planted tank with internal power filter? can we put plants same time as we fill the tank with water or we should wait for few days for planting? initially I am interested in valls, cobomba, wisteria and amazon swords my tap water is 7.8 ph
Sand. And I will never cap dirt with sand again. It looks great but when you start pulling up plants the dirt mixes in and its a PITA. If you do decide to use it, just remember to put a thinner cap to allow for aerobic activty in the dirt. Sand is more compact so 1/2" max is all you'll want.
Ah, I just wanted to ask if you recommend sand instead of gravel... and then I saw this comment :) I made my first, tiny Walstad aquarium using sand, and as it looks brilliant, I can’t imagine the proper flow through this layer, so next time I’ll definitely go for gravel. Thanks for all the videos!
You can dose ferts/tabs but I find it unnecessary and have never done it myself. Remember the entire idea of a Walstad tank is balance. Dirt, plants, fish, food, waste, all exist in balance and form the food chain that maintains the tank and provides the nutrients for plants to grow. Excess nutrients will open the doors to things like algae blooms. In the end its not bad to boost a sickly plant if needed but unless your are keeping plants that need high nutrients, keep it simple IMO.
DONT use coco husk. its not very nutrient rich like a miracle grow organic mix which is made up of plant based composted material. it work well in hydroponic scenarios but should be mixed with other aerating options such as clay pellets or vermiculite because when it gets wet, it gets dense and anaerobic soil will kill your plants. I would spend the time looking for a soil with no animal compost/manure and no artificial fertilizers. The soil will provide all you need for proper tank cycle.
There is nothing wrong with mineralizing the soil but it is completely unnecessary. Mineralizing makes nutrients easier to access for plants which would equate to faster plant growth and also faster depletion of nutrients. This will mean that you will likely be dosing fertilizers later down the road because your left over food and fish poo have not had time to break down and re-fertilize the soil. The plants know how to grow in soil just fine, they seldom need our help.
Not exactly. Dirt is important only to promote plant growth. The focus is on allowing NATURE over technology to promote a healthy aquarium. No chemicals, plants as filters and a low bioload to promote a balanced ecosystem.
Dude! You're not explaining the Walstad Method - you're explaining minute details of metal toxicity. Waaaay more details about one small aspect of the aquarium keeping than anyone wanting to understand the Walstad method needs to know. I couldn't even listen through to the end.
