My wife walked in to me watching your video and this is how the conversation went: Her: "how long do you want to spend setting up your camera?" Me: "I'm learning about log footage" Her: "Do you want to log me?" It was at this point I added your video to "watch later".
Been in the same boat for about a year since I've started using CLOG 3, always asking "how do people get such a good image with the same camera, when my image looks like crap?!". Now after a ton of research in finangling, I've learned it's all about the settings - base ISO, 50 - 55 IRE, highlights at 85 IRE, and using the histogram as a final check.
this is a great honest video my guy as i've been struggling with exposing CLOG3 and most others just show either the log or their awesome footage. Kudos to you and you've found a new subscriber.
Thank you! I went through so much trial and error and I found that people posted 20 min videos and never really spelled it out for me. This is just the truth of how I get a perfect exposure.
What has really helped me a lot has been getting an external monitor for my R5, using false colors and using LUTs in monitor to better see how things will look in post.
I'm a photographer, mostly doing cars (paid jobs) and my key client ask me to make him a video when I'm taking shots of his collection. Your videos make it easier for me to understand basics. Thanks a lot!
Nice video! I've noticed I get much cleaner results in the shadows if I overexpose about 1 to 1.5 stops then bring it down in post. So much less noise in the shadows. That means exposing the skin at about 70%. The mid tones also seem to look better this way.
Thanks for the input. Definitely the higher end of 55-60% ire is what I use for clog3. Any higher I find that I risk the highlights along the edges of the skin when I begin to pull the exposure out in post, especially if there is any hard light. As for the light meter, I use it only as a basic guideline. If you ever have a monitor that has false color, that’s the absolute best imo 👌
I've had an R5 for a little while now and have had some good results in CLOG3, recently I shot in a dark environment with brighter highlights and high contrast (dark studio with a couple of lights). All seemed exposed well in-camera and I was happy with the way it all looked on the LCD until I looked at the footage later. It's muddy, too dark, and has lots of video noise. I later learned I should have shot at 400 ISO instead of the native 800 ISO and then exposed it higher. Uhg....I love the R5, but I find myself struggling with video noise and it seems unpredictable in anything other than daylight. At least, in my experience.
The struggle with dark scenes and log footage is a never ending struggle on all platforms. Never forget there is no shame in shooting in standard profile. I have also had a lot of success pushing clog3 to up to 3200 iso and denoising in post. The zebras come in really handy here, more so for skin tones than highlights.
I’m glad I found this. Seems like you’re already working on a follow up to this video, but I would be interested in learning about your workflow to match the C70 footage to the R6’s. Since I own both cameras. Thanks!
Haha originally I written, audio sounds great on Bluetooth headphones but didn't want to ride your nuts too much lol pick and choose my compliments haha Also side note. The voice crack needs to be something in every video lol
I’m glad I was able to help out! I tried to make this cut and dry. Exactly what I use and go from there. How are you liking the R6? Do you primarily use it for photos or video?
@@CamerasandTech Keep up the good work man! videos mostly, but I'm shooting a lot of stills too, have also an EOS R for the more MP but I've got eyes on the R5 as well 😁
The next steps are a piece of cake. If you follow the exposure guide and throw in a few tweaks in post it’ll look professional. It’s almost like cheating. It’ll be especially useful in you use final cut.
Without getting too far into it. It’s a method of measuring exposure (how much light is in your scene). The portions of your scene that are in the ideal ranges of ire will look perfect on camera.
Do these settings change when shooting at higher fps? If I want to shoot at 120 fps on a music video for example, how does this differ and what are the important things to keep in mind when shooting clog3 at those fast frame rates?
Yeah so because your shutter should always be double your fps, your shutter for 120p would be 1/240. That makes for a pretty dark image. You can either pump up your iso or increase your lights to compensate. A lot of what pros don’t tell you is that you can play with the shutter a little and people won’t notice all the time. I wouldn’t go too low on the shutter though, you’ll get that drunk motion effect.
Thank you so much! Also wondering, you say to use 85 IRE for highlights but on skin set to 55? Just wanted to make I'm understanding correctly that you're saying to change that specific setting to have zebras focus on your skin vs the highlights right? I'm shooting something where the highlights will mostly be on the skin (as we're doing a paparazzi lighting set up on the subject) so I'm not sure which IRE to be using for this. Thanks again! :)
@@HelloMyNameIsVB yes, that's correct. 50-60 is where I like to keep my skin tone for that perfect exposure. When you start to apply the your color correction, you'll see those perfect orange skin tones pop. 85-90 is the safe limit for highlights, sometimes highlights have to be blown out for artistic reasons or because you have no choice.
I have seen other videos and they recommended 35ire for skintones, and I have noticed noise and artifacts when it use that in low light or high dynamic range scenarios. I will give this 55ire a try. is that the reason you recommend a higher 55ire? and why those youtubers recommended 35ire? baffles me. Looking forward to Part 2!
Great info! Newbie question here. Umm, I didn't know there were Clog LUTS from Canon. Where the heck did I miss that? I tried looking on Canon and didn't see any. Anyone know where I can find them?
This is great. After 9 years of photographing , I have decided to try video. So when you say shooy Native ISO 800. Do you mean start with that ISO then adjust your settings or is it ok to shoot in with a lowet ISO. Or does that mean try not to push it to above 800 when shooting log3? Thanks for the help.
Good question. The native iso gives you the best image as far as dynamic range. If you go above or below, you will slowly lose a little DR. Your other settings should stay put and you can use ND filters to adjust your exposure. When you’re in a pinch and don’t have filters, changing your iso won’t ruin the image but you will lose a bit of quality.
Should I use Manual filmexposure setting in order to use your recomended settings? I have never tried this before, so I need a little more detail. That said I think your 2 videos have been the best help for me. Continue your good work.
Yes for professional looking video, Manual is the only way to go. Start with looking up how to choose the right shutter speed for video and then iso. That should get you started.
Good question. If given the choice I would almost always use clog2. The situations that I would opt for clog3 are : if the B camera I’m trying to match only has clog3 (most mirrorless canons use cl3) or if the scene is super dark I’d think about using clog3 to reduce the noise (but even in this situation I’d probably just go with standard profile or continue on with the noise in clog2)
I’ll put the link in the description for you. Put in your operating system and look for “Canon Look Up Table” in the downloads. Should be about 4 rows down. Lmk if you need more help.
You’re on the right track. Sticking within that range shows off the texture and color in a desired subject or object. I’d play with it to see if slightly under that works as well.
Fantastic video , just changed my settings to match yours. Just one question for clarification , you want to expose to a point that the zebras appear on skin tones (55 ire) but do NOT appear on the highlights (85ire) ?
Hey Evan! The 2 zebra settings have patterns that move in different directions. One will show you highlight clipping the other shows a perfect exposure. Hope this helps!
So i had as pro recommend zebra 1 settings be at 45 to 50 and zebra 2 75 , could this possibly be because he was recommending it based on clog2 and clog 3 would be different? Only because I notice your Zebra 1 is set to 85?
Those values are very close to mine. Around 50-55 is best for skin and 80-85 is the limit for your highlights. If you keep it at 75, it’s safer in case you really are being cautious about clipping highlights. But you also don’t use all of the dynamic range available if you stop yourself at 75.
Awesome video thank you. If your subject isn’t a person, isn’t skin, for example it could be food cooking or a dog walking, what IRE do you use on these non skin tone subjects?
Thanks for the question! Same. Right around that level is where you get the best detail. You’ll always have to play with lights to even out the non subjects as well to get the right emphasis. I’ve done tons of food videos and the same ire has done well to give food the most vibrant tones. What’s strange is that all the videos I watch try to sell me more things to make my video look better but simply dialing in the lights (even cheap ones) and simple settings on the camera made my image level up.
@@CamerasandTech awesome thank you mate, I was sitting here thinking surely if it's right for skin, its right for other things, but so many other videos say to dial it down 10 or so IRE.
I feel like that is a personal choice. Just sample both color profiles. Cinema gamut is a wider color gamut, meaning there is more space for editing color in post. Rec709 is the most commonly used for delivering media. The real thing to pay attention to is once you pick a color space, stick to it and use it over multiple cameras so you can color match more easily.
It certainly helps. NDs allow you to keep the ISO and shutter constant so you can get the best image possible even when the light increases. If you’re controlling the light you can always just lower the intensity. It all about controlling how much light hits your sensor to get that perfect exposure.
Having issues not seeing the C Log settings, I have FW 1.6, anyone able to assist? Yes, I'm under the settings specified in the video, instead, I get a Clarity setting versus the C Log setting
@Cameras & Tech I could not see a drop down to get to a setting to change general or extended. Thank you for taking the time to reply, very informative video, subbed!
@@CamerasandTech toasts...inside a barn wedding with decent light..ive been doing weddings since 08, but omg my last wedding at this barn everyone had green blotchy things on their skin..i couldnt correct it..groom didnt notice and loved the video..but it was awful..i didnt even upload it...had good daylight..plus 5600k light shooting against the couple with clog 3 and white balance at 5600k i believe i was overexposed by 1 as my waveform monitor showed i had loads of data to expose even more, but i stayed just over 1
@@Brett.Hatfield that sounds terrible. I honestly can't explain it. I hope it never happens again. The lack of blotchy color artifacts is what I love most about Canon and 10 bit color.
