Staggering the splices to create a crutch for both joints is simply brilliant. Just proves you are never to old to learn if you aren’t to proud. Nicely done.
This is just the video I've been looking for since I'm needing to do the same thing on the boat I'm restoring and making a catfishing boat out of it. Now my questions have been answered. Thanks for sharing.
That was a great DIY jeff , I've been wanting one of those little torches. But I keep telling my self you don't need that , I mean I really like my heat gun for shrink tube , but you know I never thought about soldering with it like you would do copper pipe but that's a good idea now I can buy me a torch haha , guess I never thought about it cause I paid do much for that Weller soldering iron. Good tip on staggering your splices too
Great. I would not leave the tape as outermost surface. It always comes undone. It wasnt even necessary in your case, but uf u really want it, put it under the last heat shrink tape. I myself still dont have soldering iron. Need to buy one because i am splicing cables for my new trolling motor right now
I cut it a little short at end. I agree about the tape. I used braided chord like a Chinese finger trap over the full length after I spliced It. You can see it at the end I just hadn’t pulled it up and over yet. Thanks for watching and commenting
Hi,,, Your post has helped me out-- I have a question I hope you can answer- I have a very small boat and a 30Lb. Thrust Minn Kota for it which I believe is the smallest they make,,, my issue is this- it would be ideal to balance my boat if the battery were forward- to do this I just need 5 extra feet of cable but I’m not clear at all on what Gauge or type of wire I should be using as I’m an electrical idioT!!,,, I still have enough skill to build this using your instruction but just need guidance as to what wire or cable I should use-- any help would be greatly appreciated.,, Thanks--
No more than that you could get by with just extending the wires you have with the same guage wire. It should say on the side of the cable what guage it is.
nice tips for sure. but if your heat shrink is far enough away you can let it cool some after the solder as long as you dont overheat it crazy style and then get it over everything easier. i have one question about trolling motor though. most have really short wires for the foot pedal.. are those able to be extended? ive never had one, trying to get a used one for cheap and ya most im seeing are just too short for what i need it for. i need the bow mounted but able to have the foot control farther back in boat to help me gather trot lines near a live well so i dont have to mess with main motor or extend the main throttle and do a pulley turn system since my boat at the rear has the aluminum back built up inside that helps it to never be able to flood and sink the boat and seems the trolling motor might just make it less work to get boat out there and less gas used while getting the lines up. might use it also to put out the lines. nice video though man. take care.
@@bowl830 dang i almost want to go buy a cheapy cut it up and see if its possible. but dont want to buy a higher priced one used which i need if i cant do it. the bad thing i need a long shaft and there isnt many options used since most have short shaft ones. and finding the right thrust, shaft, with a long pedal used is a pain to find. but if i can it saves like half the price of a new one. thanks for answering.
So today I learned from Minn Kota that if you are running the wire for that size motor 15 feet or more, you should use 4 gauge wire or you will not get full power. Just google their wire size chart.
Yes sir that is why I use a even larger wire from the battery to the plug. That way there’s no amp drop to plug. Then you can use the standard wire from plug to motor. Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it
Got you. BTW the offset splice idea was so cool I'm glad I, I mean you, thought of it. Thanks. I'm pretty sure I have not been getting full power from my Minn Kota because the boat was originally wired with too light a gauge, and it took the plug failing for me to realize that.
Good video Jeff, if i were to make a long run of 8 ft to relocate my battery, what gauge wire would you recommend. Thanks, keep posting these videos brother
What would happen if I got rid of plug and directly connected my tolling motor to battery? I seem to be missing the female portion..I only have today to solve this problem..any ideas?
Question I have a 36 volt fortrex 112 pound thrust.It came factory with 10 gauge wire from the head its 5ft.From my batteries and breaker to the plug is 8 awg and roughly 5 foot now from the plug to head is 6 to 7 foot .The question is would you guys run 8awg from the other end of plug and cut the 10 awg factory wire down to 2 or 3 foot or just splice into the factory wire?
What brand trolling motor you have mounted on your 21' StarCraft. What model is it and how long is the shaft. or if you have any recommendations on a newer unit. since this post is a few years old.
@@bowl830 Now can you run contour lines with that I-pilot I see you run a Lowrance unit. I thought you could only do that with Hummingbird units. I just got a Lowrance Elite 9 FS ,& it would be great if I-pilot would hook up to mine. I have yet to get a trolling motor yet, still shopping. Any suggestions? My boat is also a 21' Starcraft 1988.
@@bowl830 I hope you see this and get back with me..! my trolling motor is a 6 gauge but I got 6 gauge jumper cable cut the ends off of them.. but the cable is much bigger than what's on my trolling motor any ideas what's up with that ?? Cuz I wouldn't think a thinner gauge hooked up to a bigger gauge of wire would lose power or not make something run correctly I'm not electrician but please help with this if you could thank you
Jumper cables are usually a lower grade wire do they’re bigger to get the amps transferred from battery to battery. I use a large clamp butt connector for that problem.
