Extension Dining Table Build 

I appreciate the suggestion. I'll consider drawing up a set of plans in Fusion and/or Sketchup. Thanks!

@@GothamWoodworks did you ever get around to it? my father wants me to make a similar table mechanism and, plans are hard to find and I'm only in 2nd year of furniture college and have gotten nowhere near building something like this yet hahaha. I think he over estimates my current ability and knowledge.

@@IvanWizard-Karl I don't have plans but email me privately and I can provide you with something that can help.

@@GothamWoodworks just did, thanks so much!

I’d love the plans for this!

Thank you. I'm just getting started with videos so they will get better over time (I hope).

Thank you Rod. More to come.

Shoot me an email if you're in the area -- reach me through my website www.gothamwoodworks.com

@@GothamWoodworks Sounds good!

Hello Martin, thank you for the nice feedback. I will have more furniture project videos over the next few months. Felder makes quality machines for sure.

Haha, I’ve managed to avoid that trend.

I don't have plans, but you can try searching the Fine Woodworking archives for the article featuring Tommy MacDonald making this table. An alternative is Tage Frid's book where he documents how to make this table.

Correct, I glue stop blocks to the tapered rails. I over-extend the leaf by about a 1/2" and mark the placement of the stop on the rail and then glue on the stops. By over-extending, it allows you to pull the leaf out a little bit beyond where the top drops down so that the edges don't rub against each other. Once the top drops into position you just push the leaf slightly to snug up to the edge of the top.

@@GothamWoodworks

Hello. It's a Barth Multipress RP4001. I purchased it from Rangate (www.rangate.com).

I use 7/8" as the width of the dados/trenches in the aprons, and thus the thickness of the leaf rails is also 7/8" (If you use white oak or ash for the supports you can get away with 3/4") The thickness of the tabletop and leaves is 7/8" each, so when in the closed position, the combined thickness is 1 3/4" (7/8 top sitting atop 7/8 leaves). Therefore, the leaf rail blanks will be 1 3/4" (i.e., 7/8 x 2) wide x 7/8" thick. Length should be calculated as follows: 2 x width of leaf + width of cross support. So if you have an 18" wide leaf and a 3" wide cross support, the leaf rail should be at least 39". Next comes the taper of the leaf support rails. What I do is place the leaf on a flat surface, then I take the support rail on edge and butt one end to the edge of the leaf. I then take a knife or sharp pencil and draw a line across the end of the rail where it meets the leaf (running my knife or pencil along the leaf to make a mark across the end of the rail) This establishes the beginning of the taper. Next, place the rail across the top of the leaf so that the end you just marked is flush along the edge of the leaf (either the outside or inside edge of the leaf, doesn't matter). Use your finger to make sure the end of the rail is flush with the edge of the leaf. Now, strike a line from the opposite edge of the leaf where it meets the rail. Use a square to extend the line around the rail. This establishes the other end of the taper. Now, lay the rail on its side, and using a straight edge, connect the line that bisects the front edge of the rail to the top edge of the second line. This establishes the taper. Mark the waste area and cut the taper on your bandsaw or table saw. Important: when cutting the trenches in the aprons, make sure you offset them by at least the width of the rails (e.g., 7/8), otherwise the rails will hit each other when both leaves are pushed in. I usually come in 2" from either end of Apron "A", and at least 2 7/8" from either end of Apron "B" so the rails pass by each other when they are closed. Hopefully this is clear.

@@GothamWoodworks thanks so much for the help

​@Gotham Woodworks hey I'm sorry to bother you again. But I made a mock up of the leaf and cross piece before I cut into the actual table. And with the leaf fully extended its at a drastic upward angle. Do I have my taper wrong,? I don't understand how you get the leaf to sit flat.

@@marcustobolski9921 The angled side of the taper attaches to the underside of the leaf so the entire "straight" edge of the rail rides in the "trench". Send your email address to me and I'll provide a more detailed explanation. kerry@gothamwoodworks.com

@@GothamWoodworks Once you measure the rail taper using your edge marking method and cut it, do you then trim the rail length shorter so that it is flush with the apron when the leaf is in the closed postion (offset from the edge of the tabletop/leaf)? Or does this taper angle allow for adjustment and still end up with a flush tabletop when extended? Like shown at 13:14 in the video you are aligning the rail flush with the apron. Thank you!