Just did my buddies f-150 it took 3.5 hrs total with me fixing all his mistakes and eating lunch. I used a 18v impact driver with 3/8" drive and a 1/4" drive adapter, and a 1/4" stubby ratchet. Needed a swivel only a couple of times. Way easier than I thought it was going to be. I charged him $200 and the shop quoted $900. Awesome video....
I watched the same video Eight years ago and did this repair which I thank you for the advice. Now in the present Time I need to do it again!😢 So I returned to your channel for a refresher course. Tomorrow Ronnie starts on a new adventure again. Thank you so much for all your information😁
Thank you for making these videos to remove the heater core and all that needs to come out. I sincerely appreciate them and will use them to tackle my biggest project ever. I'll fill you in on my job when completed. Thanks again!!! Misionare
I don't have a job, I don't have 1k, no shop to work in, but I have tools, technical skill, and time to try. Thanks for the detail and thorough directions. I'll admit I'm a little scared, but I'm broke so I have no choice but to do this. I need a vehicle to drive just in case I find that job. ;-)
Excellent how to video. Just finished my Ford Expedition and everything went just as you described. Also appreciate the tip about changing the blend door and how to shave the plastic housing to get everything to work smoothly. You saved me a lot of headaches with your attention to detail.
Wish I would of watched this before I started pulling the dash! Been changing a heater core for 2 days now. Lesson learned! Thanks for sharing. Awesome job!
Just took me about 3.5 hrs to get the dash out of the way, still hung up on something on the drivers side, plus I've got a manual transmission. Without your great videos I would have likely taken out way too many screws....My dash is waaaay dirtier than yours....used up a half hour vacuuming and wiping as I went...tomorrow I will be tackling the core and the blend door. Many thanks. I have also used your small container system, with notes...
Ya i understand what you went Through! Mine had like a inch of dust on everything and bugged me so i spent the first day cleaning and the second installing the core. Lol
Thank you. These vidios are amazing. Even the little tips about the tray. As a "shade tree" mechanic I am going to start doing that. beats the hell out of a full magnetic tray, or a million ziploc bags like I usually use on big projects. will be saving this video for my near future heater core venture....
OK I've watched all 3 videos on this heater core replacement. I started by breaking both heater hoses at the firewall. No problem you showed the parts to fix them. Second on an F-150 with a 4.2 V6 the engine fuse box is too close to the connectors. Solution was remove the fuse box from the mount. I'll start in the cab later tomorrow but for any novice I expect this to take 3 to 4 days at the least. We'll see. I do love the videos.
I have a tip to add. I did this job on my 1998 f150 yesterday it was fun! If you buy the doorman blend door that has the metal end on it it's too big like he says. He also said to use a hobby knife to shave the edges. I tried that and I did not succeed. So I ended up having to remove the floor vent and actuator so that I could make the hole bigger in diameter without messing up the actuator. First I used a knife and to me that just made it look uneven. So I sat down and thought for a second. O I got and idea. I ended up using a 5/8 in. in diameter pattle bit to bore out the hole. Fits like a glove. But it took me about and hour to remove the floor vent and actuator because I had to remove all of the bolts from the passenger side because the dash was already removed. Other than that the set of videos on this topic was very helpful. Thank You Sir!
I did this today and removed the whole dash up to the heatercore removed and took me exactly 1 hour and 40 minutes from start to where heatercore was officially removed from the truck.... not gonna lie, i used a drill to faster remove bolts but honestly the video made it easier by knowing where the bolts were.. good deal sir.
Great, informative video. Very well done. I am a 25 year tech and this video saved me a ton of time. If you read this comment on another video , it was a mistake. Thought I was commenting on this one. Well done and thank you!!
That's a brilliant summary, Duane. With so many steps and plastic tabs, the first time a guy does this he has to count on breaking something on the way.
Excellent Video !!!! I'm gonna have to do this job soon and this was very easy to follow. Step by step for the most part. Thank You for the informative video.
I watched all 3 of your videos I myself have a 99 all the same I'm favoring your videos so i can do mine in 2 wks of course its -10 today under a warning for windchill and my heater core decides to go to sh6t right after I flushed the system 2 wks ago of course. After watching these I feel I can tackle it in 2 wks after I get my medication. My dads lending me his truck with no rush to return so i can take my time and do it right! Thank u for these 3 short videos I'm no master but I'm going to give it the ole college try lol
Thanks. Now I really know what I'm in for. Thanks for the tip of replacing the mixer door, that helps. Watching this done professionally is so much better then watching the hacks who take a hack saw to the parts just to save them what they think are a few bucks.
Thank you for the video. I will be tackling this big job on my 98 F150 in a few days. This video has given me a ton of info and confidence to do it myself. Thank you very much.
Great video series.I have never had to deal with a newer car that had to have the dash out yet but after watching this with my mechanical back round I feel confident that I could do this job. It may take some time to do but I defiantly could see myself doing it.Thanks for showing us it because its a great video.Thanks for showing it.
This video was very helpful in that it helped me understand all the work involved in replacing the header core to my truck. What I did in the mean time was to bypass my supply lines. I knew it was a big job but I know this is too much for me. If I had a second vehicle I may try it. Very well done and was explained very simply though it is not a simple job. I think this is an awesome video as well and give it my two thumbs up. He can work on my truck any time. Keep up the good work guys.
Just wanted to say THANK YOU!!! This series of 3 videos has helped me out tremendously with my 98 F150! I'm on my 3rd heater core replacement in the last 2 years. This is my third heater core from Spectra(thankfully cover by warranty which is the only reason why I keep using them. And the reviews on all the other aftermarket ones are terrible. And $200 for a Motorcraft one cuts into my beer budget too much.) Going to try hooking a ground wire to the core somehow this time. I got some advice from a few mechanics that recommended that because of a possible electrolysis problem. Not sure if anyone else has had this issue. If anyone has run into this before, please let me know if a ground wire worked. Also, just wanted to throw it out there that the tool he uses in the video to pop the hoses off is totally worth buying! Got mine on Amazon for $21.99 with Prime. If you're going to do this job GET THAT TOOL!!! Your knuckles will thank you. Lol. 🛠
Watched your video and its great detailed and helpful video for person like myself who arent mechanics to be able to save money. I had problem with mine starting to blow hot air and then hot air turns to cold after 10 sec. I went and hose it (clean) lines as I was told to do it,it could help.I did notice a bit change but after little bit was all the same.I have decided this week to go and change and get me new heater core. Thanks again
you should remove the quick connect clips before you pull it through the firewall so not to tear the rubber foam and when installing them put the clips in the hose end not on the heater core it is much easier also apply silicone lube helps slide on without damageing o rings. Also ford sells kits with just the orings spacers and plastic clips in the kit. I would replace so as not to have a coolant leak. other than that the video was great and right on.
great job! I've replaced heater cores before, but usually on the older cars where they can be as quick as an hr or all day long..15 yrs sounds like the average life span of these cores. again, nice job on the presentation of the heater core removal..
Thanks for posting these videos! The methodology and tips that you have provided will save me time and what's left of my sanity. Won't keep me from cussing Ford while I'm doing it, but your instruction should keep it down to only a few choice phrases. Again... THANK YOU!
I watched several videos on this particular project and this video is absolutely the most detailed and helpful one I viewed!! Not sure if I want to take on this job, however after watching this, I have a very good idea what I will be in for.
Excellent video series, utilized it for my 2000 SVT Lightning. Ended up having to cut the old HC tubes as the connections were just to far back. Suggest that other first time core changers pay close attention to all wires and hoses as you pull dash away from firewall to prevent damage or inadvertent disconnection.
Gread vid as usual. There are lots of people that head right to the parts store and try a bottle of stop leak ,your doing it the right way and I bet you have never used stop leak. Your a fantastic teacher and the trade schools would love to get a pro like you.
I have found it easier to re-assemble the quick connector on the hose end, Then simply push the hose connector back onto the core tube. No lost seals. Try it and let me know. Thanks for the excellent videos, Bill
I've had to get this done three times on my F150. The first shop screwed up and the new core was leaking in a month, they "replaced" but two years later it leaked again. Had it done a third time by a different shop and has been good so far. Second shop showed me where first shop used stop leak to fix the so called "second replacement.. I'd like to meet the engineers who designed this common to fail part to be so damned tough, and expensive, to get at. Fricken idiots deserve a bust in the mouth for such a stupid, stupid design.
Lost an o ring and a bushing not a damn clue where they went lol. Thanks for the video it helped me find the product I needed to buy in order to replace those!
You don't have to take nearly that much loose to remove the dash and the plastic clips will come off from the outside easily without having to cut the insulator.I used to do the whole job in less than 2 hours and everything will be back exactly like factory, but I've done a lot of them being a Ford tech for many years.I commend you for your caution though. :)
I just did mine and wasnt that bad. I agree i didnt take near as much stuff off as this guy did. Took me about 1hr to remove everything and about and 1hr or so to put everything back together.
Lol man been doing this 28 years and 10 years at Ford. You sir are correct! This guy took off way to much stuff! Thats why people complain about a rattle when they do it like this. 10 major bolt and a steering wheel removal dash is out with all the crap he took off still attached!!
You, my friend, are correct. For someone to design this is a for laymen/DIY like us to work on is sad. It's just terrible that many contemporary designers completely disregard the regular joe these days. I'm glad there are people out there like realfixesrealfast who take the time to share this valuable information and expect nothing in return.
FYI if you are replacing the door: I work at an auto parts store and we actually stopped carrying because some of them would only last a few months (not typical of doorman in general). Murray supposedly upgraded theirs o overcome the doorman fault.
FANTASTIC!! VIDEO!!! that is how I do it:) however it would take me 2 weekends outside in the back yard, under the oak tree, and if it rains the I would have to cover everything up and wait it out nice to see such detail to attention on a project
You might mention that, if replacing the evaporator, the heater core should be replaced whether or not it is leaking. The price of the heater core is only about forty bucks, and, like with the blend door, it doesn't make sense to do all of that work only to have to "do it over" a couple of weeks or months later. The evaporator is much more robust -- and expensive -- than the heater core, so it isn't necessary to replace it as a prophylactic measure when replacing the heater core.
My old Nichol's Chilton 2000 CD labor guide says the job is only 4.8 Hours. My MOTOR parts and labor guide says it's over 7 hours. That's quite a discrepancy on the part of Chilton. That's pretty good to be aware of when quoting a job like this!
The blend door is a bitch.....but here's a little tidbit of info that will really streamline this job. I used a dremel to cut the tubes on the core from the inside and then pulled the hoses out from the engine compartment! If you do it that way there is no need for the tool and no lost o-rings!!!
I am doing this project myself because no local mechanic wanted to tackle this job for me! All they suggested was to bypass the heatercore by rigging it up. What I need though is the plastic part that goes with the heater blend door, mine was crispy and broke into pieces when I took it off. If anyone knows the name or has one laying around please email me.
Im waiting for the blend door part to arrive through Amazon Germany. Its really good Amazon is able to send there US PARTS to Europe! I bought my truck with bad head gasket
Hard to believe they cannot make this job easier. I know there's a lot more stuff under the hood than in the older cars, but there has to be a better way of getting heat into a car.
great vid but put all the connector parts inside the black quick connector even the white clips not on the ends of the heater core tubes then all you have to do is push them on the heater core end tubes ..it will all snap on with ease ...
