F150 STALLING AT STOPS - THE FIX - PART TWO 

It has been over one year and I have not had one stall since replacing the evaporative purge valve found under the hood . Cheers

Thank you. My 2006 F150 4.6 was stalling at stop lights. Thank goodness the dealer didn't have time to look at the truck. Decided to search you tube and found you. Replaced the Vapor Canister purge valve and the truck runs great. Thanks Steve, if ever in the San Diego area look me up and I'll buy you lunch.

Thanks Steve I have an F-150, 2016 and start stalling. My mechanic doesn’t know about that problem, but thanks to you now I know.

My 2017 king ranch 5.0l was stalling at idle after filling gas tank, $38 evap purge valve from auto zone fixed issue. Diaphragm had pinhole and couldn’t hold vacuum. Thanks for video, very helpful

I have a 2010 F150 that was experiencing stalling and a ton of O2 sensor codes, mine would act up more frequently right after filling up. Rolled the dice ordered the vapor purge valve. Haven't had a single issue since. 3 fill-ups no issues. Thanks for posting this video I would have never looked at this! I felt like I was driving an old Dodge with vapor lock....

I would have never considered this. Will be looking forward to seeing the outcome.

Had Ford stalling issue. Spent 3 weeks and @$1000 at the dealers and we could not find the issue. In the end I solved it by changing my coolant. Old, weak coolant causes the cooling system to become a battery and the current throws off the ecu into a lean condition causing misfires and stalling at idle. No scanner detected this and the Ford garage still doesn't believe it. Just finished a 2500 mile test run with no stalling. Items I did address before the coolant: Replaced trans speed sensor Replaced ecu Replaced air filter Replaced fuel filter Replaced spark plugs Cleaned MAS Cleaned throttle bodies Cleaned IAC valve All vacuum hosed checked Issue was still there. Changed coolant, issue gone and has not come back.

We have had our 2013 F150 in the shop for a week. It would not start, not even turn over just a small click. We found a couple of videos with this same problem. But with our truck in the shop, it would not not start. So we had them replace the purge valve & then it wouldn’t start. They finally found that connections at the body control module, PCM relay was bad. So fingers crossed the replacement of both these will fix the problem.

Looking forward to your update in 2019! Little Stevie will be walking by then!

Hi Steve I have 2010 F150 4.6 engine so far so good no problems stalling out but I'll keep this video in mind if it ever happens.Thanks

Will be keeping My Fingers crossed that this fix will work for You,,, nothing more annoying than an intermittent problem ,,, Good luck Steve ...!!!!!

Great vid Steve but it begs the question... out of all the techs at Ford, none of them could figure it out? I guess they're trained to follow a certain test pattern and see if anything comes up.... it's great that one of your subs figured it out, amazing in fact!

Good luck Steve, I never would of thought of that. I have a lot of friends buy parts from Rock Auto and they have good luck with the parts.

I would suggest that in every video, as you never know when you have a new watcher, you provide a couple details on your F-150. Examples: year plus engine size.

Good luck! Hopefully it keeps your motor running

I love this guys passion. 👍

Most certainly hope this part resolves the issue.

That's crazy that an employee discount couldn't beat that price. I would have never guessed. Hopefully that part gets it done for you. It's such an annoying issue to have the vehicle dying. Cheers Steve!

I have a 2015 5.0 f150 lariat that is doing the same thing. Im gonna try the same thing. Gotta find the part you changed. Ty for your video

Good shot, hope all is good.

Vapor canister purge valve..thanks!

Another thing to check is to see if the 20 amp fuse #27 in the under hood fuse box has been relocated to #70. This fuse powers the injectors and has melted in half on my truck.

Had this problem it was very costly in 2 different shops for 2weeks -1 month, it ended up being mas air flow sensor. I ended figuring it out . Sometimes shops over look the small . I hope this was the problem, so far 3 weeks now the truck hasn’t stalled!!

Crossing my fingers for you. Cheers Steve

Well, that's about the only thing I didn't guess, lol. You've figured out how to keep me around another year. Better than a give away. The unknown cliff hangar. LOL :)

Amen to sharing information and Steve Rob does a good job of that. ScannerDanner is where I got some of the info I shared with you. He's a great guy and he likes to find the problem or recreate the problem. Your problem is a little hard to diagnose as it happens once a year. Say your not on Santa's naughty list are ya? Excellent suggestion by Paul because the gas is blended with more light ends to make starting easier in the colder weather. So much so that back when the majority of cars had carbs the engines would run leaner with this mixture. With the O2 sensors and computers in todays cars the computer just compensates for the leaner gas mixture by allowing more fuel so that the air to fuel ratio remains the same. Hope he fixed problem four4 ya and I'll see ya round Christmas to find out.

You could create a drinking game off watching this by simply making "we're gonna roll with it" the trigger...lol

Good luck! Hope that works!!!

Paul may just have something there about the blends since you say the problem only shows up around 8 or 9 months. Different fuel blends between that far apart. Hope it works out that it's the purge valve and keeping fingers crossed for you.

Hi Steve - I got the exact problem 2019 F150 Coyote V8. It’s going into dealer today for warranty about this issue. 16 fuel injectors, 8 upper 8 lower ( gotta remove intake man) 3 lowers (1000psi )they are replacing. All 8 uppers (60psi) perfect. One or 2 lower fuel injectors have a drip.

Another Google recommendation thumbs up thanks 👍

Hope that fixes it. I never thought of the gas being different between seasons. Weird. Rock Auto, even though they charge shipping, can't be beat for OEM type repairs. I'm starting to collect the car magnets on the shop fridge!

I hope this is what causes your problem Steve. Some times you never find out what the problem is. I may have told you this story so if I have I’m sorry for repeating it again. So my Paw Paw bought a new 1969 Ford Limited (I believe that’s what it was). The thing squeaked over by the passenger side, like plastic rubbing together. He took it back and forth to the Dealership to see if they could find it....nope, no can do. So Paw Paw got some cardboard and folded it into and put it where he thought it was coming from. It took him a couple of attempts but finally he found the right place. No one could find it but Paw Paw had had enough and he finally found the right place and that thing never squeaked again! I guess where there is a will there is a way, lol. Good luck Steve!

Nice relatively cheap fix if this works! Let’s hope for the best!

Fingers crossed 🤞 for you Steve

I had thought before that it might be fuel related, Your last said something about left turn so I was thinking that fuel was shifting in the tank & getting pushed back into the EVAP system so that's why I asked about fuel level. I do recall a video (might have been Scanner Danner or maybe SMA) that they mention a common EVAP problem due to the change in fuel blend. I hope that fixes your problem.

I hope it works. Been down that road before.My old nissan truck gave me a fit for 23 years before i fixed it.All it needed was a wire tie problem salved.

I wish you the best of luck

Brother if scannerdanner stepped in to help that's about the best direction you could get. I guess I'll stick around for a year to see if it works. :)

I did my dishes while listenin to ya :)

Good Deal buddy. If you got Paul on your side you got the Big Guy Upstairs too!

good luck with it,hope it works

I am back Steve, I noticed the truck stalls, stops my fORD 1990 F 140 4.9 because the battery gets too hot. I mentioned it to the guys and one said 'thats a common problem with those trucks because the ignition coil too close to the motor. Another mentioned the it was the ignition part that is close to the battery. I will start with the first and see what happens. Imention this so it may be of help to someone else.

I got a 2010 Lariat 5.4. It would stall 2 or 3 times in a 10-mile city trip every now and then. Never threw a code. Easy restart. Sometimes right after a fill-up it would struggle at start up. Replaced this can and all is well. Thanks.

Good luck Steve! Hope it works out 👍🏻 Is this a revised part ? Or the same one they been using? Hopefully you got a good one👍🏻

My truck would stall in warm weather it was a fuel vent line. It was broken

Hopefully that fixes the problem for your truck! Time will tell.

Here's a new twist into stalling when stopping or slowing to turn with a 2000 Explorer 5.0. At first I thought it was water in the tank that moved over the pump intake strainer and plugged it whenever slowing or stopping since if I jacked up the rear end the car would die. Dropped the tank and found the fuel pump / sending assembly totally broken loose from the mounting plate. The plastic baffle / gas reservoir that is supposed to be attached to the bottom of the tank had broken loose and over time it apparently broke the pump assembly as the gas pushed it back and forth during stopping and starting off. The resulting mess had the strainer sticking up so that when stopping the gas moved away from it. The daughter said the fuel gauge had quit working a few weeks ago then it started stalling at stops.

I have this problem but it’s EVERYDAY. it stalls on me at red lights, stop signs and when I’m turning into parking lots every single day. The truck will beep and the oil gauge will drop... I hope this part fixes it.

Have a 1988 f150 it stalls out every stop light unless you hold the brakes and gas at the same time! LoL plugs,wires,sensors,fuel pressure regulator, fuel pumps! After all this it turned out to be a stopped up cat converter! Ordered a new one! Just replaced the ECM(engine control module) aka brain box! And the selector valve for the dual tanks!

My 2003 Ford F150 started doing this intermittently back in October. It will go 2 or 3 weeks without it happening but then it will do it twice in one day. Sometimes it sputters but doesn't die. Ever since it started happening it idles a tiny bit on the rough side. It runs great and feels fine when driving. Hopefully, a purge valve will fix it.

Hope it works Steve!

since it started the 2nd day ya had it,I was thinking loose connection, wire. hopefully you do have a stubborn purge valve. sucks learning the hard way. this is like a good movie now, who did it

STAY AWAY FROM ETHANOL AND LOW OCTANE CHEAP GAS!

I have a 1998 Expedition, 5.4 v8 triton. Recently I started loosing power while driving to the point that it would shut off. Turns out it was the cat that was clogged so I got it replaced. It fixed the problem but now when I turn on my truck it idles and shuts off if I do not give it gas. It does the same thing while on drive as I stop.

I had this issue but had no codes come up. What the problem on mine was a loose wire was rubbing on a pulley. I think it was a speed sensor wire. I zip tied it out of the way and have had no problem since

My son has a 1990 F-150 302 E.F.I that has the same problem. I was helping him fix it and noticed there was some vacuum lines plugged with bolts and I believe the purge valve removed. We have 2 canisters one of them completely disconnected. Would you have a picture,diagram or video so we can see what's missing? I'm currently looking for a local vehicle to compare...Thanks

Hope that gets it fixed for you !

Fantastic. We'll know in a year if it works. I hope it does ! :)

Good morning Steve

Ford was never easy to diagnose for me anyways,you probably never used a break out box which reminded me of the game "battleship" i have had my share of difficult problems to diagnose over my 35 plus years,and quite frankly you could be onto something.... like you said,time will tell though.fingers crossed

Well that's one way to solve the problem I think you probably just need a whole bunch of gas cans so you can store enough Winter Gas to get through the summer.

RockAuto is nothing but a drop shipper. Cheap yes, but wait till you need to have something exchanged or warrantied.

I hope this is the solution. Intermittent problems really suck. BTW, that is the biggest jug of Gojo I have ever seen! What do you do, bathe in it? lol

🎉 I drive a 1995 Ford F150 6 cylinder. The other day I was driving in town and it stopped very quickly. I let it sit for a few minutes it started right back up again. I thought it might be the gas but it didn't seem to be the obstacle. I tried it again on a cooler day. Got almost to where I was going and it did it again. The power steering on the truck seems like it was hard to turn. Single single elderly female here in Oklahoma cannot afford a mechanic and them looking and searching for shade tree mechanic. Any thoughts on this

Dude reminds me of Bubbles from Trailer Park Boys OMFG LOLOLOL

ive noticed that my ford will run crappy right around the 0 temp mark in the winter for some reason

That will be plenty good enough if that fixes the problem. Imagine all the others that will benefit from this.

Never thought of that let you know if it works thank you

2007 F150 4.6 liter. never has stalling issues before. i replaced the manifolds and EGR Valve because of rust issues. and exhaust fumes. no spudder truck runs good....But now the truck is stalling at a stop light. intermittent. usually after been used for more than 10 min. Any one with similar issues. Getting a EGR code 0401 code anything else to replace.....??

Hello, my Ford 1990 F150 4.9 L stalls on reverse after driving for a while, it did right in the middle of the parking lot, could not re-start the truck, then fr some reason I did not have my cables nor anybody else to have given me a jump. After about 30 minutes I decided to start it AND IT DID START!! And I got back home. It did again after a month, and this time as I lifted the hood, I noticed a bit of fluid had come out of a couple of Battery cells, I suspected it overheats. After 20 minutes I tried to start it and it started, went back home. So now the question is.....What is causing this overheating? I checked it for shorts, but I found none, what do I need to check and fix? Thanks a lot for the advice.

Mine has stalled just a couple times normally when off-road in low range four wheel drive idling down a hill. Today it's stalled or almost stalled while turning into a parking space at extremely slow speed so I'm going to have to look into this.

Check for Spark? Ford's ignition systems are a nightmare. Ignition Control Module, Distributor.

Has it worked thus far?

2008 Ford F-150 5.4, same issue…. I’m Gonna try this

Found a similar problem with a 2010 E350 I'm working on replace canister purge valve and still had the same problem It only stalls when you're coasting up to a stop sign or a corner and then go through it turn the wheel and it'll stall. Foot on the gas or taking off from a stop sign or a stoplight all the power in the world no hesitation no dropping cylinders or stumbling goes through the RPM power band just fine it's only coasting to a stop and then turning.

the 5.4engines, 4.6 too. they are throw away engines. they say use 5-20w. it is too thin for worn engines, such as over 100,000 miles. the engines get worn and the hot oil pressure coming to a stop drops so low it is below the computer engine cut off pressure and the engine stalls. restart give the pressure switch a jolt of higher pressure and the computer allow the engine to start. it happens with mine. i put heavier oil in it and lucas oil stabilizer and it seems to have done the trick. the oil pressure guage in the ford trucks is fake other than off and on for the computer. all those other fixes won't correct low oil pressure at high temperatures

Found this online.. And tired of typing it to everyone asking.. So here you go  This is used for clearing codes by disconnecting the battery cable for 15 mins. Be sure there is no cell phone chargers/lap top/anything like that plugged in. While cables are disconneted i always cycle the key. And turn the head lights on. Then follow it up by the relearn process. Battery relearn Because your vehicle’s engine is electronically controlled by a computer, some control conditions are maintained by power from the battery. When the battery is disconnected or a new battery is installed, the engine must relearn its idle and fuel trim strategy for optimum driveability and performance. Flexible fuel vehicles (FFV) must also relearn the ethanol content of the fuel for optimum driveability and performance. To begin this process: 1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake. 2. Put the gearshift in P (Park), turn off all accessories and start the engine. 3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. 4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute. 5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute. 6. Release the parking brake. With your foot on the brake pedal and with the A/C on, put the vehicle in D (Drive) and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute. 7. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process. • The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles (16 km) or more to relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy along with the ethanol content for flexible fuel vehicles. • If you do not allow the engine to relearn its idle trim, the idle quality of your vehicle may be adversely affected until the idle trim is eventually relearned. • For flexible fuel vehicles, if you are operating on E85, you may experience poor starts or an inability to start the engine and driveability problems until the fuel trim and ethanol content have been relearned.

I have a 03 F150 and it stalls when stopped and will not go. I have to hold gas until it eventually takes off. Not sure if this can fix that problem. Just changed filter and fluid.

Hello everyone I have a 96 f150 5.0 if it’s any wormer than 80 the truck will not start right away and after driving no more than 5 mile it’s stalls but it’s not over heating I am not able to Figure it out any ideas

I'm patient, I can wait a year for an answer.........

'14 F150 5.0 Coyote is stalling at stops while it's warming up. Once warmed up it idles sort of ok at stops but doesn't stall. Also if you try to quickly rev the motor in park it will bog before the rpms come up. Part is cheap enough, nothing to lose.

Did u even say what the part was you bought??? I thought you were going to do actual work? All you did is talk & I dont think I ever heard you say what part you even bought to fix it???

OKAY # 2 IS BETTER! ( valve cover filter helps but ; shhhh "Epay",🥺)

What has become of our society, kids have become snowflakes needing safe rooms, everyone gets offended easily..now Ford trucks are "sensative" :) Good Luck, I hope it works.

Good job boss. I have a f150 ford 5.4 I put a new fuel pump and new fuel filter new battery and new Crank sensor and cam sensor no fule mod on it I can't find what the problem is. Would you now

Did it work?? I have an 05 f150 and it just started doing this to me. And it was 90 degrees all summer until about 3 days ago up here in Minnesota, it’s been in the 40’s the last 3 days. It’s only happened twice. But mine doesn’t run that great to begin with.

I have a 2007 ford expedition and same thing drives well til u get to a stop and it wants to act like its going to stall idk what it is any info for me will help plz?

Thanks for the video! I have got a 2010 F150 LX that dies when slowing down or slowing down and turning right. Also, there is a continued misfire when gassed. I think my issue is with the plugs and coils. Last year, I had the same issue which was water in one of the plugs; replaced the plugs and 4 coils since it is 4.5 L and V8 and the problem was fixed. A few days ago had the same issue and 2 more coils were burned so I had to replace them. But still, the issue exists. I think what you have suggested will be the issue to resolve.

Someone help me please. My ford f150 5.0 will start up and I can drive to the corner and then it acts like it's starving for gas and WILL die but it WILL start right back up everytime and do the same thing. Help me please

Good luck. Let us know.

Have a 2002,the pvc valve rubber 90 sucks air after a while and throws a lean condition on both banks.watch out for that and thanks .

My 2001 f250 5.4 and my 2010 f150 4.6 both have this stalling problem. I’ve changed all the plugs and coil packs on the 250 which still didn’t keep it from idling really high. My local mechanic tinkered with the throttle pos sensor which stopped it but now it idles really low and stalls at slow speeds and my mpg dropped from about 12 to 8. My 150 stalls at slow speeds as well but not nearly as much as it did before I replaced the upstream o2 sensors. There’s no codes or info at all when diagnostics are hooked up. I’m reluctant to change out the downstream o2 sensors because they’re $100 and might not be the problem. But both tritons are doing the same thing. I’ve checked the grounds as well for corrosion and all appear ok. I’m thinking it’s an air related issue or pcm. Any help appreciated!!!!

Can vacuum affect this ?

Mine will stall if I rev it up then let off the throttle, as well as when coming to a stop. Will update my comment when I try this fix. Mine is 2004, so it has an Idle Air Control valve, but I don't think that's the issue

Is you’re truck the V8 or V6? I’m having that issue with my V6

OK Steve....first I have to say I understand Scanner Danner....but wow Mostly Mopar IH....this guy is ...well I just did not think he was that smart but if you say so.....who am I to dispute what you call an auto tech...I just thought he was unglued at the seams....but hey .....you where stuck so I understand....hope it all works out for you

I cleaned my throttle body, then read in the Haynes manual that cleaning it with solvents can damage the coating inside 😮

Hope it works for you.

I have a 95 F150 300. Engine drops oil pressure and sounds like it wants to stall when coming to a stops. If I switch to neutral, oil pressure comes back to normal and sounds fine. Oil pressure and engine runs fine while driving. Any ideas??