My ongoing research of the determining factors deciding
contemporary climbing contests, 2018, part 1
Read the in-depth article here: www.innsbruck2...
Crossing Gaps
Our ancestors, the arboreal animals, had to be able to move between gaps in the branches, or even between trees. This can be accomplished by reaching across gaps, or by leaping across them. Nowadays we face the same challenges at boulder comps.
At boulder contests of about 10 years ago, the challenge of crossing gaps was mainly to reach the next hold, which would than be positive and allow pulling yourself into the wall. Crossing gaps was about gaining and maintaining momentum to carry you over a difficult move.
In modern bouldering comps crossing gaps is often more complex than in former times. Climbers usually can only apply a limited amount of force on the contact points which are limited concerning the direction of loading, the contact time and the number of load changes and re-grips.
Balance
"Balance is a movement intelligence. It relies on systemic interdependence - that your parts work well enough and that the body can efficiently execute interpretations from the brain." ( / @chrisruffolo )
The sense of balance serves to establish the body‘s position and orientation in space. It resides within the equilibrium organ in the inner ear and cerebellum and is also closely connected to the eyes and other senses and reflexes. If we don’t feel, hear or see anything, we cannot activate and coordinate our muscles. The sense of balance includes a sense of up and down, and spatial orientation as well as for linear and rotational accelerations of the head in all directions.
Body Tension
To make optimum use of the direction of loading that handholds and footholds offer, climbers have to connect the contact points on the rock by means of body tension.
Body tension are oppositional forces across the body, often engaged to increase the contact force on hand and footholds.
Adaptability
Boulder problems ask for an appropriate solutions, and the level of ‘appropriateness’ depends entirely on the capacities of the climber. They must simultaneously assess their own abilities and the demands of the task to find a way to completion.
11 окт 2024
