Failed 12W LED analysis and schematic 

I absolutely love the way he touches the exposed LIVE circuitry without any safety concerns. That right there shows REAL electrical engineer👍👍👍

3:55 i would consider that test "super dodgy ☠"

As always, bloody good explanation. This is a really interesting piece. Surprisingly made for today's costcut times. It's sad that something with the potential to work for 20 years has to be thrown away after a year because of a stupidly made shell contact. Long live planet Earth!

2 videos during 3 days? Keep going! Do not eat. Never sleep. Just give us more videos.

I always love the dodgy way you hold live components. I wish I was that brave 😅

The schematic was "bloody complicated", but all made perfect sense when you explained it. Great video. It's a shame that so many products end up in premature recycling bin because of such a simple, preventable manufacturing fault.

"Safety is my number one priority" XD

This video was 100% Electroboom certified 🤣But with the bloody good explanation and information included

A good reminder that no matter how good your circuit is (and that lamp looks as though it should be quite nice, if the wire did not fall off the threaded part), a single bad connection is all it takes to stop it working altogether. In the UK, light bulbs have a push-and-twist base that looks a bit like the probe connector sticking out of an oscilloscope, with two locking pins that ride in J-shaped grooves in the lamp holder, two contacts on the bottom, one for live and one for neutral, and the outer metal does not form part of the circuit. Consumers traditionally seem to have preferred light bulbs to be brighter rather than longer-lasting; and of course, you can only have one or the other, not both, unless you pay more for better-quality components and more LEDs so each one is dissipating less power. It only has to last just a little bit too long for you to think "Well, that was cr@p, I'm not buying that brand again". Over-stressing LEDs causes them to lose brightness as they age. So a new bulb will nearly always be brighter than the old one it replaced, because -- unless it was an early failure -- the old one will have been gradually getting dimmer all the time before it stopped working at all. Of course, the whole idea of cheap, easily-replaceable light bulbs came about in the tungsten filament era, because even the best-made ones could only manage 2500 hours. Nowadays you can get LED light fittings that are meant to be installed permanently, or at least for a few years, and they probably are building new houses using these instead of fittings that take bulbs. I am old enough to remember when the first LEDs became available to consumers, just dim little points of red light (green came a little later, and blue much later still; I remember paying a small fortune for one of the first blue LEDs) -- and cheaper audio equipment often featured a tungsten filament bulb with a rubber sleeve made to look like a fake LED!

LEDs have a lifespan of around 50 years if used correctly. Unfortunately most modern manufactured items are overpowered for cheapness drastically reducing their life.

3:59 - I love the way You measure soldering connection 😂

that cat has really good insight

Vďaka za toto video s vysvetlením činnosti LED svetla na sieťové napätie a škoda, že kvôli takej banálnej chybe sa to pokazilo, výrobca mal tie vývody rezistorov pekne zapájkovať na ten závit a na tú čapičku.

I was expecting what happened at 4:02 - bloody hell! ;)

Very cool design for a supply, with the big cap after the magnetics instead of before it like most do. Cool video :)

Excellent video as always!!! Thanks 😊 for making such great content!!!

You the man!! You never even flinched when you shorted out the bulb and tripped your breaker. I suppose that is a daily event the way you operate. Keep up the great work! I love your content, and you are funny as hell!!

Yeah, very safe testing. And I love the brand name of that electrolytic capacitor.

Thanks DGW I don't understand much but just these schematics are a lot of work!! Thank you for these great videos!👋👋☺

Thanks for the hard work in making that schematic. Very interesting

Older Cree lights use the same grey silicone potting in their lamps. The circuitry is similar. I have gotten good life from my outdoor flood lights, but the cover over the LED's is not well sealed, and they die from water ingress. Great video, especially the mains shorting part! Thanks.

Hi and thanks for sharing this information. You are king of drawing schematic.👍

The more I learn about LEDs, the worse for the environment they seem. They do make for great videos and engineering tutorials.

This is definitely the guy I would call and trust if I had an electrical issue 👍🏻

I'm happy to have guessed the failure point by the looks of it. And I'm not happy with why it failed that easy, in the first place.

You explained it so beautiful. Thumbs up 👍👍👍👍

i love the way is explaining

AXBOOM capacitor. Nice.

ElectroBoom moment 4:00

Indeed was a SMPS video but I'm waiting for something like an LLC topology with Soft Switching, or a Full Bridge. Niceeeee!

Livarno brand is sold in Lidld supermarkets.

in my case the led chips are always the point of failure and most of time its one bad smd internally inside the 3 led package or just a loose phosphor layer due to heat expansions which can be made to work by applying light pressure and superglue to another year of use

I have fluorescent tube from 1968 and it is ironic that some LEDs cant last 2 years.

My experience with Lidl items (Livarno,Parkside, etc.) is that they are usually very well built as well as well designed. A lot of their items appear to be manufactured in the EU, but I guess some items are bound to be sourced from China, although it is unusual to see NXP components in a Chinese made item.

The bulb only worked for a Lidl while

Shame that the poor contact resulted in the end of the lightbulbs' useful lifespan. Good to see how this bulb was made (I don't like all of that resin!) and hopefully any other bulbs from LIDL do not fail in the same way. Also, only 5 large multi-chip LEDs for 12W? That seems like not a lot, those LEDs are going to be roasted...

nice again as usual! why would it be wrong to that frequency would get back to the mains? I don't understand it, sorry! please explain!

Thanks

That excessive resin screams ECO all over the place. BTW. It was not the case for this one, but most failed LED lamps I've seen have black spot of death on some of the chips. They fail prematurely due to excess current/heat. Quicker than incandescent lamps even. But there is a way to make them last as long as they are supposed to last. What you need to do is to replace current setting resistor to something about twice the resistance. The lamp is going to be a little bit dimmer, but it's going to run MUCH cooler and last MUCH longer. Just buy a little bit brighter lamp than you need and mod it. I think BigClive shows how to do that in one of his videos.

Struth you get a lot of components for such a cheap LED. Looks like it was a dimmable design. Indifferent metal corrosion even happens faster in tropical regions.

Hello, I actually came from your website in search of an email to ask you a question about an elecktronika 4. I live in the land of 110v . Do u think it is possible to switch out the internal 220v transformer with one that will work with 110-120v? Sorry to bug you with a stupid question. Love all the info you provided. Thanks so much 😊🙂🙂🙂

3:54 - 4:05 bloody hell ☠️

+1 on the annoyance of multimeters shutting off automatically. Auto-off can sometimes be bypassed by holding down Function while turning on the meter (try it), but the auto-off feature should not exist on test equipment in the first place. I hate anything that turns itself off after only a few seconds or minutes and it's ridiculous to claim that it's an energy-saving feature when the manufacturer/seller included heavy-duty (zinc-chloride/zinc-carbon) in the box. They now ship thousands of tons of useless zinc batteries across the oceans, but then claim that the annoying auto-off is saving resources? Bullcrap. Some multimeters will turn off the backlight after only 8 seconds and whoever designed that should be jailed. I've long wanted to make a youtube video showing how to disable the auto-off feature on multimeter backlights/flashlights by adding a latch mod or even a separate switch if that's easier, but every meter is different and I don't have a suitable place to record video anyway. Danyk could show an example of such a mod, but he may not be interested and I suspect that the views would be poor while the questions in the comments would be numerous; a high question/viewer ratio ;). Thousands of meter designs exist and many people would want custom instructions for their own device.

Can pls.do humidifier with high and low switch function.

HaHa,,, ThankYou for making my(our) day. Also very interesting video(s). Have nice week.

Why would that wire connection burn while passing low power? You can take off the screw terminal with an adjustable wrench, and might still be able to push it back on. It sucks that they don't make LED units openable.

It looks a well made lamp except for the crimping of the screw cap to the capacitor wire.

"And of course it's working..." *Shakes wire, BLITZ! ..darkness* . "...until you accidentally shorts the wires..." 😂👍Electro-Diode-gone-boom!

Cool jewel

I had a few failing that way. Engineered to fail

Для надёжности и долгой работы лампы отпаять один из параллельного подключённого резистора на 1,8 ома. Ток через светодиоды уменьшиться, нагрев лампы станет гораздо меньше, яркость лампы упадёт незначительно.

I believe you fully about the longevity of fluorescent fixtures, but we have to remember the bathtub curve and think about it scientifically: If something lasted for 2 years, does that mean it's probably likely to last 10? How many fluorescent bulbs die early? Maybe the ones that are still working are just lucky ones. If I remember correctly the most wear on fluorescent lamps comes when you turn them on, so they're best for situations where lights are left on continuously, while LEDs are probably better for intermittent use if designed correctly. Personally I prefer LEDs just for the better CRI but I still have some compact fluorescents installed. I did convert all of the long fluorescent tubes to LED just because they were failing anyway and the old-style magnetic ballast is not very efficient. I put probably about 10 or 20 LED lamps like this in our house and in a few years I've had 2 or 3 of them fail. Probably manufacturing defects that affect a minority of units.

All of those components required to run a light source. 🙀

Can you make a video in Czech language please, because I am curious about your normal language use 👨‍🔬

Even resin can't stop you from reverse engineering of the circuits 😂

Nice teardown, did you used wood or plastic chear to isolate your self, what is the best case working isolated from earth or not isolated in order to be protected by Rccb breaker.

Its a well built bulb

❤❤❤

Lead free solder Yippie yeah😝

Is this a very constant fault? As it heats up, the plastic melts and the wire stops making contact. Another cause is usually the poor quality of the LEDs. I recently bought some EDM brand lamps, they all broke down after 3 days or a week... I gave up on this brand. greetings from Portugal

He touched Live wires 💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀

We can't expect LIDL to be selling high quality LEDs. Maybe they surprise us from time-to-time, but not here.

3:59 elctrobooming intensifies... :))

Diode gone mehd(i) 😂

*Nice 😂 **03:58*

4:00 Ft with Electroboom

look burn marks on his sockets lol plenty short circurts

now repair the damage done by you cause its an awesome system

as an electrician 3:45 was painful to watch :D i suppose you use a transformer?

Why does they use too much resin 😂 It's make any sense😂

dude casually hitting live wire ☠️ bruh

BRAZIL

get the hammer... this is definitely will not be reversible 😂😂😂

Słaby kontakt ponieważ się nagrzewał metal. Ta zalewa powodowała zwiększenie się przestrzeni i pogorszenie styku. Błąd konstrukcyjny. Pozdrawiam.

Add some salt 🥴

This is awfully complicated! I had the same problem with German Aldi with Müller-Licht: The first I bought was over 8 €. I returned it after a year and the offered me a swap to a new light. I declined and got my full money back. With this money I bought from the same Aldi the same lamp for 5 € and made 3 € win. And so on. In the end I bought a lamp for 2.50 € and this is running for years now. It seems to be kind of a rental scheme with the winner on my side. Hint: ALWAYS keep the bill and the packaging and insist of the promised 50,000 hours lifetime, which are 5.7 years/24 hours daily running.

These lamps are designed to fail.

it's so utterly infuriating that we're mining all this irreplaceable shit out of the earth, investing a ton of energy into manufacturing these devices in the hopes that they'll reduce our overall energy usage, and then throwing them away because they couldn't be bothered to figure out an adequate means of attaching a wire to a piece of metal. like you have a whole supply chain with all sorts of fancy chemistry and advanced photolithography and precision machining, and then right at the end it's "just kinda touch the wire up against the thing and hope it stays there".

Very overly complicated. So much money spent on engineering to make it as complex as possible for nobody to be able to understand nor repair it, then even potting it. We need EU regulations against potting and rules that make it easier to take apart appliances. I think at this point we can be glad that we even are still able to buy LED lights wit Edison or Bayonet lamps... Here in Germany it is increasingly difficult to get fixtures with them. You are supposed to buy a lamp with integrated LEDs and bore new holes each time it dies...

Lol you ALWAYS have reference to ground by parasitic capacitance. Please, never touch any live wires coming from the grid.

These 25 year lifespan LED light bulbs often fail after 25 minutes! 👎🤣

I bet ElectroBOOM made that capacitor. Hahahahaha

this not a good video. you cannot play with mains voltage like that, and apologizing doesn't help